Hi all,

I heard about this site from a friend at school. I thought I had an account here, guess I was wrong... Oh well..

I have a '92 Maxima SE with the VE engine (5 speed) and I'm looking for the most efficient and cost effective way to get some more power under the hood. The only thing I've done to the car is modified the timing a bit for some improved HP. After I advanced the timing a hair, I had that classic "ticking under the hood" which turned out to be a real expensive fix.

I usually run high 14's - low 15's on my 1/4 mile but I wanna run in the High 13's. I'm thinking of going for a Cold Air Intake, new Y-Pipe, and a cat-back system. I figure this will run me about 800-900 bucks.

I had my car tested to see what's she's putting out at the wheels and the results were quite nice...

------------------------------------------------------------------------
192 hp @ 4250 rpm
187 ft-lbs torque @ 5200 rpm
144.35 mph Top Speed (Rev-Limited)

0-60 feet in 2.3-2.5 seconds
0-330 feet in 6.3-6.5 seconds
1/8 mile in 9.6-9.8 seconds
1/4 mile in 15.052 seconds @ 93.03 mph (average out of 5)

Fastest 1/4 (out of 5): 14.492 seconds @ 95.01 mph (R/T .498)
Slowest 1/4 (out of 5): 15.153 seconds @ 92.62 mph (R/T .556)
------------------------------------------------------------------------

I think this is rather impressive for just some adv. timing and V-Rated tires, but I'm sure you all know better than I do. What my goal is for the engine is around 220-230 hp and 200-210 ft-lbs torque. I figure I could run some low 14's if I was quick enough off the line.

For those who want a laugh, I was going against a '95 Mustang V8 for those 5 races and made him look like granny-be-slow. I think he was popping his clutch a little too high and getting way too much wheelspin. He beat me once (my slowest run of 15.1) because I redlined in 3rd gear on accident. His fastest run was 15.033 @ 91.95 mph.

Anyways, my budget isn't very big and I don't want to modify how the car looks from the exterior (sleeper all the way baby!). Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

-OrlandoMaxima

 

Your dyno numbers are bogus

 

IBaarongoesWTFmate

 

your HP peaks awfully low..and your torque a bit high, plus you're 10-15HP/TQ more than you should be for just timing. if this is legit you wont have any trouble posting the dyno sheet.

 

Yea those numbers are not possible with just timing.

 

Post your dyno sheet.

 

the mustang was probably granny shifting, not double-clutching like you should

why doesn't anyone listen to Vin Diesel? He knows what he's talking about!

 

Yeah, your numbers are bogus. I know that the engine/tranny aren't rev limited to 144 mph, either. Most dynos at the wheels are 160-175 whp and that is with some mods.

You are going to have to do a lot more than CAI, exhaust and y-pipe to run in the 13s. It might be possible to get that low, but you would have to do just about every mod out there and tune it perfectly, along with run slicks or drag radials. AND, you would have to strip your car down to just a steering wheel and a driver's seat.

About the only way to get times below 14 without massive modification and weight reduction is going to be nitrous or forced air induction (turbo/supercharger).

 

i'm too stubborn to believe you, i want to run a 13.8@whatever as i drive it daily
and thats NA. i want 12.8 boosted in daily driver form. i'll never strip the car out at the track. how i run at the track is how i will run on the street because in my mind, 200lb of weight reduction that you just put back in when you're home from the track means your car doesnt run that time "all day long"

 

your 60 fts suck for those kinds of times.. you should be in the 2.1- 2.2 range. the rest of the numbers would add up if you had a TON more mods, but I don't see that happening with just a timing advance. you're about 25hp too high for that- even if you're at sea level.

 

I'm kinda new to the forums, can anyone tell me how to post an image?

The one I have is from just before the timing change and has a max HP of 190 and max torque of 186.5. Please keep in mind, I'm the second owner of the car and as far as I know, there hasn't been any changes to the car. So... since I dunno how to post the image, I'll just type out the results at each notable rmp.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
1500 rpm: 100 hp, 40 ft-lbs
2000 rpm: 155 hp, 60 ft-lbs
2500 rpm: 170 hp, 78 ft-lbs
3000 rpm: 180 hp, 100 ft-lbs
3500 rpm: 185 hp, 125 ft-lbs
4000 rpm: 180 hp, 140 ft-lbs (HP drops for some odd reason...)
4500 rpm: 180 hp, 155 ft-lbs
5000 rpm: 175 hp, 170 ft-lbs
5250 rpm: 175 hp, 173 ft-lbs (Suggested shift rpm, torque and HP match)
5500 rpm: 172 hp, 180 ft-lbs
6000 rpm: 160 hp, 190 ft-lbs
------------------------------------------------------------------------

What I find strange with the VE and VG engines (I have an '87 Maxima aswell) is that they seem to give up a little power at the top end but according to the dyno, they still pull strong. It is a noticable change in acceleration after you pass 4500 rpm. The guy who ran the tests said I should really look into getting a better air intake and exhaust system which would improve my top end performance. He couldn't explain to me why the torque keeps going up and the HP drops, but my conclusion is fuel and air mixture.

If I can find the newest dyno test and scan it, I'd be more than willing to post it. The only difference between the two is the HP doesn't drop as fast after 4000 rpm.

-OrlandoMaxima

 

No comment until I see actual dyno proof and timeslips.

 

Your HP and TQ numbers are reversed on your little chart up there..

I did the calculations on it, and if I calculate HP from the number you have listed for HP, they line up exactly with your TQ numbers.

In that case, the correction factor is also wrong on their dyno if you get 190hp at 6000rpm. actual HP should be 182.9hp at 6000rpm with 160tq.

Sooo, your max TQ is 185 at 3500RPM and your max HP is 182.9 at 6000rpm.
I still find that hard to believe unless the engine has had a LOT of internal work done to it

 

Well, I'm not a "mechanically inclined" person, all I know is what the test says and what I have experienced. I don't really want to sit here and be poked at with technical specifics. All I really wanted to know is the best route to take for improving the engine as it stands now.

Like I said before, the previous owner might have done something to the engine internally (I'm thinking maybe a port polish or balance), but it all seems kind of redundant because he didn't change anything else. All the parts under the hood are stock OEM parts.

What I want to do is install a CAI and replace the exhaust system. I don't want that typical "rice burner" sound, I want performance. I'm going for a sleeper design. Possibly installing a short shifter (though that would be annoying with the center console being so high) and an improved clutch. I recently had the clutch checked and it is in great shape so maybe I don't need to shell out the extra cash for that.

For the technical guru's out there, is there any benefit in lowering the car's suspension about an inch? I understand that the lower the center of gravity, the better, but I don't know if it is possible with the stock suspension that's already on the car.

So what I'm looking for is:

Cold Air Intake (CAI)
Exhaust System (Y-Pipe, Catt-Back, etc)
Suspension tweaks (if possible)
Low profile wheels (16-17" outta do the trick)

My budget:

CAI: $150
Exhaust: $400-$500
Suspension: ??? Dunno
Wheels: $1000 for a set

Any suggestions on where to get the above mentioned and possible installation tips would be greatly appreciated.

-OrlandoMaxima

 

Didn't VEs come with 190 HP new? If so how is this such a big lie? Was that number exxagerated or what?

 

That number is measured at the crank, not the wheels

 

The Y-pipe is one of the best mods I've done, alot more power, CAI is great too, I'd skip the catback exhaust though unless your exhaust is shot or something, I think there's only like 5 hp to gain from a better cat-back exhaust. I ended up getting a Fidanza lightened flywheel, Cosmo CAI, and Warpspeed Y-pipe for $700, and the car drives much better, much smoother acceleration and alot more power.

 

Well, I know you can probably do it. You know wtf you are doing...

I have a pop charger, Cattman Y-pipe, fidanza flywheel, ACT clutch and I had the timing advanced to 20 degrees and I ran a 15.2 with a lousy 60 foot time. I think with that set up, I could probably be right at 15.0 with a good launch.

Even with my light (13.5 lbs each) rims, GReddy exhaust and test pipe, I would feel extremely lucky to run in the mid 14s. Now, if I had a JWT ECU, an UDP, TB and intake ported and matched I might be looking at times like we are talking here.

I think the two best initial mods for going faster are the y-pipe and some kind of intake. After that, maybe an UDP (I don't have one yet) and a better clutch.

 

I'm the one who told him about the .org. I kept seeing this excellent condition Satin White Pearlglow VE 5spd that sat in the same parking lot as I do and was determined to find the guy who owned it. Finally caught him Thursday unloading in the traffic loop and talked with him for awhile inbetween classes.

 

Then go ahead and take a look at his dyno slips and tell us that he isn't full of

hehehe

 

Yeah, I'd have to see a dyno sheet too. He should be seeing around 160 at the wheels with mods like that.

 

so much hate towards the newbie

 

I granny shift


and he wrecked a Challenger, he can DIAF

 

MOST POWERFULLEST MAXIMA EVAR!!!!

 

Hey newbie. If you need some help with installing suspension stuff or a CAI let me know. I live about an hour away near Melbourne. You can PM me.

David

 

with all my mods my HP numbers are about that and mind you my engine was REBUILT and ported along with my mods. I havent even added a fidanza and excedy yet, and not even the rest of the exhaust. just the WSP y pipe

 

Lol, this thread will probably make for interesting conversation tomorrow at lunch if he's out there.

 

My max is completely stock, anyway i've been telling people that i have around 190 hp, because that is what I hear people saying on the org. but if that hp is at the crank, then how much should i expect in real wheel hp.
holla!

 

read the dyno discussion forum. you'll find lots of useful info there.

 

that depends. do you have an auto or 5-speed?

 

I've got a slush box unfortunately

 

maybe he dynoed in 2nd or 3rd gear? maybe?


that would account for skewed results.

 

you could start by spelling it right

 

You should probably be putting down ~160 whp

 

A stock VE auto should be more around 145fwhp.

 

A VE auto shouldn't even bother

 

QFGDMFT

 

what the hell is granny shifting and double clutching? I never understood that

 

Now you done it....

 

But your not going to push a 3400-3600lbs car with a measly 190 crank HP car into the 13's with a CAI, y-pipe and cat back. That's 17.9-18.9 lbs per crank HP to haul around. Subtract the 15% drivetrain loss and it's more like 21.6 lbs per HP.

My old supercharged MR2 (mid-engined, rear wheel drive, 208 rwhp, 2216 lbs) had a best time of 13.8. That's a car with 10.7 lbs per hp.

Of course there's no way a near stock VE is going to post more wheel HP then the factory claims for crank hp. You're not going to get 15% with a couple degrees of timing. Wish you could. It would make going fast MUCH cheaper.