I saw there was a write up for installing a remote start on a manual car but I cant find it. Anyone have a link to it?

 

Yeah! Any? I wanna do this too for when my car finally stops not starting and starts starting again.

 

Anyone gotta link?

 

come on guys...all things electrical are on Craigs site. I know he has done this but am not sure if he has a writeup on it.

Check his page...if its not there then he will probably see this and post.

 

He has the wiring colors but doesnt have the info for the 5 speed part. I remember seeing a write up on the specifics for it but I cant find it. And I checked craigs site and all the others first. C'mon man I'm not a newbie.

 

the nutral wire is brown coming out of the ecu it reads ground when in nutral

hook that up to the hood pin wire of the remote starter and your safe

 

nor did I call you one Did you not read the last line in my post or my whole post in general.


Basically I was giving you a free bump so that maybe Craig would see it...geeez some people are a little touchy. How am I supposed to automatically know you looked on his page anyway? I am not a mind reader nor do I recognize your user name.

 

So thats the big secret no mechanic would do this , or even tell me how to do it.?

 

no, you'll need a relay to hook it up to reverse its polarity

here's some info I wrote a long time ago

>ignition wiring- the wire colors change a couple places so I'm going to use
>the relative locations in the harness. If you look just under the steering
>column, there is a large connector with 5 thick wires going through it that
>is clipped to the underside of the column. Unplug the connector and look at
>the wires; you'll notice one unused spot.
>1 2 3
>X 4 5
>Where X is the blank spot
>wire 1 = Starter wire
>wire 2 = ignition power
>wire 3 = second starter wire
>wire 4 = accessory power
>wire 5 = constant power
>
>you can use wire 5 to power your main unit
>wire ignition wire and acc to corresponding wires on remote starter
>Nissan uses 2 starter wires which must both be powered to start the car
>You will need a relay to power the 2 starter wires. Look further down for a
>little bit about relays and numbering of pins
>Pin 85: ground
>Pin 86: second ignition wire from remote starter (make sure it is set to
>ignition and not accessory - there is a jumper on the unit itself that
>controls this)
>Pin 30: connect to one Nissan starter wire; also connect this wire to the
>starter wire from the remote start unit
>Pin 87: connect to the other Nissan starter wire
>
>parking lights: connect to Red/Yellow (red with yellow
>stripe) at ANY switch that lights up. I connected mine to the defog switch
>wires because it's closet, there is a small hole that you can feed the wire
>through up to that switch (you'll see it once the panel is off)
>
>horn: connect to Yellow/Green at stock alarm harness (under
>dash to teh left of steering column)
>
>black: ground, put under any large screw on a metal surface
>
>brake switch: this one is a pain, you have to connect to the
>Red/White wire in the brake switch harness, there are 2 wires (red/white
>and red/yellow) so it's a little hard to distinguish and even harder to get
>to but its doable. In the pic, it's looking up at the steering column and
>there is a blue harness and white one, you want the white one on the right
>side
>
>disarm: connect to light green/black wire at stock alarm
>(metal box to the left of the steering column, says security or something
>on it)
>arm: connect to light green/white wire at stock alarm; note: there
>is also a solid light green wire so dont get mixed up
>
>lock/unlock from small three wire harness
>lock: grey/red at door lock timer (grey plastic box just to the
>right of steering column)
>unlock: light blue at door lock timer
>
>if you have 89-91 (91 might have it, but I think it started in 92), you
>wont have a door lock timer.
>This means door lock/unlock will be more of a pain. You need to remove the
>fuse box (one large screw at the bottom and a clip up top).
>Then you'll need to reach your hand into the hole going towards the door.
>There will be several harnesses in there.
>You need to get a white harness with abuot 14 wires in it (2 rows of 7).
>Dont pull too hard but it will take some work to get enough slack to splice
>some wires.
>Once you finally do see the wires, it's the same colors as listed above
>
>you'll need 3 SPDT (single throw, double throw) relays which means they
>will have 5 pins, look at the relay pic on my page for the standard I used
>for numbering the pins. I think most relays use a similar convention with
>these numbers - 85,86,87,87A, 30. If not, just match up the pins to the
>numbers I used.
>
>trunk pop, this wire can be found in the drivers kick panel but for me it
>was easier to trace it back where there were fewer wires. Also, you'll need
>a relay to convert the - trigger to a + signal. Wire pins 85 and 30 to a
>constant +12V source, pin 86 to the - trigger, pin 87 to the + trunk wire
>in the car
>
>this wire is the trunk output, you will need to remove the drivers side
>kick panel (one screw and it pops out), door sills for drivers front and
>rear doors and the B pillar cover. Door sills are just held in by the 2
>plastic screws and then pull up. The B pillar has only one screw at the
>bottom and then just can be pulled off. You will need to then pull up the
>carpet by simply picking up that plastic cover. Run the wire all the way
>under the carpet to the back seat. You need to remove the lower portion of
>the rear seat (just pull up hard on it, you should have already done that
>for the spring install). There were be a bundle of wires there, look for a
>fairly thick solid brown wire. It may take a couple tries to find the right
>one. If you have access to a voltmeter, this wire should have 12V when you
>push the trunk button.
>
>For clutch bypass and neutral sensing:
>Luckily the car has a stock neutral sensor built into the tranny and we can
>find that wire at the ECU. In the VE, it's a solid brown wire on the top
>row about 7 wires in from the right side (if you are looking straight at
>the ecu from the drivers side of the car). It should read about 4-5V in any
>gear and ground when in N.
>Relay 1:
>85: neutral wire from ECU
>30: ground
>87: no connection
>87A: wire to remote start - hood trigger wire
>86: wire to pin 87 of relay 2
>
>Relay 2:
>85: +12V constant
>30: +12V constant (you can just connect it to the same wire as 85)
>87: connect to pin 86 of relay 1
>86: to the - ign output from remote start unit (anti-grind
>output)
>87A: no connection
>
>also, splice a long wire into the wire you used to connect the relays (pins
>86 and 87A), run this to the wire at the clutch switch. There are two
>clutch switches, one for cruise control and one for starting. The one for
>starting is the one right up against the firewall. There are two wires
>here, you will have to cut the black covering from around it a little but
>be careful not to cut the two wires inside. Now connect your new wire to
>the light green/white wire in the clutch switch. Make sure this wire will
>not get tangled up when the clutch moves.

 

This can be done safely so it wont attempt to start in gear. I'm not sure if people are lazy or just stupid, but I've seen and heard of many installers that dont install it right and then it will start in gear and can be very dangerous.

 

Thanks for the bump. I was just responding to your "cmon guys". Wasnt being touchy.

 

Thanks a lot craig! Is that writeup on your site? I coulnt find it.

 

WOW,Thats a lot of information. Did you start typing last night and just finished up? Thanks though!.

 

I figured as much...I need to use emoticons more so people know I am just joking around on some of the stuff I say. Should have used a smiley after the come one guys part.

anyway I knew Craig would be around eventually.

 

I wrote that a couple years ago when I was helping LordRandall install one in his car probably two years ago. I was gonna put it on my site, but then decided I didn't want people screwing up their car and blaming me There is a lot more to screw up on this my other rewire stuff. It gets posted on here every couple months anyway though.

 

a lot of guys I know will not even do it on a 5spd car. I know my buddy that works at tweeter said they will not install RS on a 5spd at all.

They have so many cars come in they cant really take the time to find the 5spd's disable wire...heck some cars may not even have them like ours do.

I dont blame them for making it a policy not to install it thats for sure.

 

I have RS on my 5sp and I have always left it in nuetral. Recently my friend moved my car and left it in gear. When I started it up my sister and I were right next to it and it almost hit my sister but I shut it off in time! Another time that same friend was driving my car, with me in it. After he parked it I went to start it and it hit my other friends house. The car wasn't damaged at all but the house was a little bit. Now I decided that I just won't let anybody drive my car period!

The only safety feature that I put on it is that it won't start with the ebrake off. Both times it started, the car was on a dirt drive-way so the the back tires just stayed locked locked up and the starter pulled the car anyway.

When I did my clutch I noticed that there was a nuetral safety switch wire/harness coming out of the tranny. I was just about to do some research to figure out how to make it not start in gear until I read this thread. Thanks Craig

 

This is the thread I made when I installed one using Craig's info:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....t=crimestopper

 

i got a question craig where do i hook up this
on the second relay
86: to the - ign output from remote start unit (anti-grind output)

i gounded that out and i have the relays on always in order to get it to work and the only negative out put form my prestagie alarm is for the starter relay disabler and if thats hooked up i can only do start ups when the car is locked ?

i can post my guide for the alarm if that would help thanks

 

craigs right you would need a relay if you use the hood pin wire because if it sees ground on that wire it wont start. i accualy used the nutral safty switch wire which on my viper a/rs is black with a white stripe and there is no relay required because with that wire it has to see ground in order to start

and i think our cars are one of very few that have the nutral wire for the transmission. ive check alot of my friends cars and none have had it yet

 

That's the thread I was looking for. Thanks.

 

will this work in my 92 SE?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MakeTrack=true

 

Yes that is the one Craig has I think.

 

ok thanks, just bid on it

 

the one pictured - RS900 is what I have, but the description says it's for RS901 which is an add-on for existing alarm/keyless entry units

 

oh I didnt read the description. I just looked at the pic.

 

hey craig can you make a list of all the parts ill need other that what comes in the box thanks

 

read all that info above and if you dont have something listed, you'll need it


You'll need a couple relays (ebay) and lots of wire connectors. There are hundreds of different types of connectors. I'd recommend quicksplice taps since they are really easy and pretty cheap. Some kits will include some relays and butt/barrell connectors, but others dont.

I see that you retracted the bid for that auction so that's probably a good thing since it doesn't sound like you have an existing keyless entry on your car.

 

lol yes, i did retract my bid. heheh thanks for the advise. my friend works at radioshack he'll probably be able to get me aynthing i need then. radioshack should have it all right?

 

im not sure if radio shaft stock relays but they should have all the conetors you need

autozone has cheap relays

 

Radio Shack only stocks the SPST Relays and they cost $6+ a piece.

 

try a stereo shop

 

i just want to add that my 91 se has a wire puller to tha trunk and not an electrical popper so....no trunk button for me and my fancy alarm

 

89-91SE were the only 3rd gens without electric trunk release

You can get the solenoid and mount it right in place though and then run some wires for it.

 

to have a remote start on a 5 speed you kill the safety. I have a remote starter installed on my 5 speed. A mechanic wont tell you how to do it because most states there illegal and not safe.

Okay good points are you start a car with remote, don't have to use clutch to crank with a key, good in cold and hot weather, etc.

If you get it hooked up remember NEVER leave you car in gear (because when you go to start it and it is in gear the car will take off in that direction even with e brake)

 

apparently you didnt read the whole thread because there is a nutral wire that runs from a sensor in the trans to the ECU that you hook up to the remote start so it knows when the cars in gear and wont remote start

 

then apparently they didn't hook it up on mine cause thats whats happened with mine was all i was saying

 

yeah, it is not safe to hook it up without using the neutral sensing.
Like subs1000w said, I dont think you really got the point of this thread. This is how to do it safely so it wont ever attempt to start in gear and will be 100% safe.

 

Sorry about not getting the point, i was just trying to let them know (from my experience about how dangerous it could be) im sorry

 

so if i have the button and all the stuff at the latch off a 92-94 im in binniss?