Hello all. I own a 91 Maxima SE 3.0L V6 automatic transmission...
I owned my car for just about 2 years now (picked her up as the 3rd owner when it had 104,000m on her) Now has just about 124,000.
She runs great, never had a MAJOR mechanical problem to date. The worst was just having to replace part of my exhaust and muffler (from the cat, back). However, I am starting to notice numerous minor issues, like shifter not always sensing when its in park, and a gasoline smell when car is first started and is still very cold..etc
Anyway, like I said I bought her with pretty high mileage, owned her for 2 years and put about 20,000m on it in the meantime. I keep up on the oil (every 3,000m) and have also serviced the transmission once just as maintenance. However, I have never gave her a good ol tune up, and honestly don't know for fact when the last one was done. So after owning her for 2 years, figured a tune-up was due (it definitely couldnt hurt, right?).
I bought her down to the mechanic today and they told me most of the stuff in my engine looked original (i dunno if thats a bad thing or not?!?) Anyway, my mechanic decided that I need a "full tune-up" which I do not know the specifics (**I'll post a complete list later when I pick her up).. but he's charging me $287.00 for the full tune-up job, an additional $25.00 for a coolant flush (gotta be ready for winter) and another problem he discovered for $185.00 (I forgot exactly what he said, but the problem is causing a "Grinding" noise when the wheel is cut all the way - drive train, maybe??) I guess I need it on both sides, but he said the driver side was worse..so I'm just having that side done for today and we'll see later on about the passenger side.

Anyway, Grand Total is: $497.00

My main questions is: Does this sound unreasonable to anyone? or Does it sound just about right? Need I remind some that I am a 19 yr old female with absolutely no mechanical experience/knowledge, so please bear with me if my questions sound dumb!
**Also, I do realize that I may not have enough info (as to what was done in the full tune-up specifically, but I will get back to you all on that later..)
P.S. Sorry for the long read, thank you for your time!!

 

find out what the $185 is for. it's fine that you do know much about cars..but as a consumer you should know what you're paying for.

$287 for a tune up is not totally out of the question..but it is a tad on the high side...but it's the NE...everything is expensive.

since you have a 91..it's also a good idea to check on that timing belt. if the last one was on scheduled for the change 60K then at 120K you should be due for a new one.

 

Just picked up my car and it feels GREAT! But now I'm noticing that the brakes feel like they lost some pressure (NOT GOOD - I'll have to call them about that tomorrow) Apparently, they didn't touch anything that had to do with my brakes tho, so why would they feel any different? Any suggestions are appreciated!

Anyway - the list of what they did is as follows...

Parts:
1 Set of Wires - $116.00
1 Set of Plugs - $26.00
1 Cap - $42.39
1 Rotor - $10.96
1 PCV - $6.70
1 CV Shaft - $135.00 <<<--(thats part of the $185.00..the rest is labor)
1 Gallon of Antifreeze $9.50

Labor:
Tune Engine - $85.00
Clean battery terminals, check for fuel smell $0.00
Install CV Shaft - $50.00
Drain, Flush and fill radiator - $15.50

Thank you all for your insight as always - it's greatly appreciated!

 

That price doesn't sound too bad to me...maybe a tad high, but not taken-for-a-ride bad.

Like DanNY said, ask again what the $185 fix is for. A timing belt check would also be of high priority IMO.

 

$116 for wires???????????????????

they are like $20-30

I dont remember ever needing to change the cap, if you can?
The rotor maybe...

I think they took you for at least $80 there....

That ~$500 price should have included changing your accessory and timing belts.

Brian

 

The caps need to be changed on the VGs quite often. They develope cracks and let condensation in which makes it hard to start sometimes. I had that problem on both of the GXEs I have owned and it comes up quite often on the forums.

 

IC, i never had any problem on my VG

 

IIRC, Nissan quotes 6.5 hours to change JUST the timing belt. There is no way any sane mechanic would do all of the previously mentioned labor and the timing belt for $500. The 60k maintenance including parts and labor should be in the $600 - $700 range from a private mechanic.

Also, he got hosed on the wires. They should have been ~$75 max.

 

fixed it.

i agree...the wires are kinda on the high side.

 

Flushing the coolant system is great, but the thermostate should have also been changed. Also in the near future you might want to have a drain and fill done to your transmission.

 

prices look good to me but i have to agree the wires were way too expensive a local aprts store would have them for 25-45 bucks. not knowing alot about mechanics is ok, what gets me annoyed is when people act like they know what they are talking about. asking for help gets an A+ in my book....

 

did your cv shaft for cheaper than i was quote..next time. I recommend getting a list of everything to tune up, keep that sheet he gave you for refrence, and go to a parts store, pick up stuff like plugs, wires, antifreeze, oil, filters, etc. and then take it to a shop, and say i got the stuff give me a tune up...and you would of probably saved $100

 

The wires at $113 aren't a tad high, they're way too high. You can get a set of NGK's for around $80...

Other than that, that's a reasonable price. Must not be a dealer, they charge outragoues for a tune up.

 

you guys forget that what a garage charges for parts normally has a markup in there, it's part of how they make their living.
Do you guys realize what kind of money these mechanics invest in tools to be able to fix the cars they see?
What about the overhead of running a garage?
there are only 2 types of garages making good money:
1. the one that ***** every customer that walks in the door for their 9.95 oil change
2. the one that does only high quality work on high end cars and charges for it.

 

That's a really good way to get raped on labor charges, because I used to work at a garage, and this is frowned upon, because they make less money, so they are more likely to charge more for lower quality work. Because like internetautomar said, the overhead is really high, and most mechanics are barely making a living as it is...

 

which is another reason everyone should have a mechanic they know they can trust, or they need to learn how to do a simple tune up...or if they cant even figure out or learn how to change a spark plug, then i think its ok to charge them an arm and a leg.

 

That's a problem that plagued my car when I first bought it 4 years ago.

What's happening is the rubber fuel lines that attach to your fuel rails are worn and cracked. When it's cold out, of course they expand. When you start your car, your fuel pump starts building pressure on the injectors the second your ingnition hits. With cold, expapanded, and worn-out fuel lines under tremendous pressure, they begin to leak raw fuel till the engine warms-up and causes the fuel lines to contract again.

My car went into the dealer about 4 times before he finally got the dumb thing fixed. I can't remember the cost, but I want to say it was close to $400 becuase they have to take the intake plenum off to get to the fuel rails. It's a bad design if you ask me. Those rubber lines are directly above the scortching hot headers.

 

When did you take thermodynamics?? Only molecules like water expand at freezing temps. Things expand at high temp, and contract at low temp... The cracks develop as a result of this expansion/then contraction routine and age of the rubber lines. Just switch the process in your mind GO_VOLS!

Brian

 

Hey thanks everyone for your input!!
Anyway, in regards to that fuel smell, I've been doing some research on that very same issue on this site as well as car-forums.com and it could be either one of 2 possible sources: the fuel rail was mentioned a few times in some people's posts and also the rubber gas hoses...so considering I don't know much about cars and mechanics - how am I to know which factor is causing the problem? I think that it might in fact be some kind of hose because it makes sense, the fact that when it's cold the rubber hose is smaller and the cracks would be more apparent, letting fluid through - but once heated the rubber would expand, thus closing the crack and would be a reason why the gasoline smell dissipates after the car is warm.
I asked that mechanic to check out all my fuel lines while he performed the tune-up and he said he couldn't find anything, but he did tighten all the connections. His reccomendation was to "wait for it to get worse"...Normally, that would be fine with me since I am in no hurry whatsoever to spend more money on my car, BUT we're talking about a GASOLINE leak here! (I'm a smoker, and yes I smoke in my car on occasion so I really don't need to be blowing up any time soon!)

Also, I forgot who posted it the 2nd time, but I did mention what that $185.00 charge was for - (scroll up and look at my 2nd post with the complete list)....The $185.00 charge was for my CV shaft (part cost and labor charge together)**I have to go back there in the future to replace the passenger side CV shaft too so thats another $185.00 i'm lookin at already!!! arrghhh...

Oh yeah...and I know that this is probably going to sound EXTREMELY dumb to you maxima enthusiasts, but what is a VG?? Is that a certain kind of model? because I notice a few of you have mentioned this... Just to let you know, the car that I own and that this post is about is a 1991 Nissan Maxima SE 3.0L V6 Automatic Transmission...not a "vg" as far as I know! (at least I don't think)

 

all maximas 85-91 = VG
92-94 GXE = VG
92- 94 SE = VE

 

Anton and I noticed that on his car, its his second cap in less than 10,000 miles and it has already cracked. No moisture but I think that is more or less because of our climate.

What you paid for with the wires you saved with the Axle labor, overall not bad. CV was alittle pricey as well. I believe they generally go for about 80 or so at Napa, but still.

I know there are some knowledgeable 3rd genners in CT, I forget who though, it might have been subs, hmmm. Anywho keep a look out, someone might be willing to help you out or just work cheap to get some extra mod money or something.

 

VG is the single overhead cam motor 160hp 182tq? runs on timing belt
VE is the dual overhead cam motor- 190hp 190tq runs on timing chain

$185 is a fair price for a new axle and labor
and the fuel smell is from the rubber hoses ON your fuel rail....for alot of people replacing the hoses on the fuel rail has solved this problem.

 

Speaking of thermosat, I think I may have to have that replaced anyway... Normally, the heat in my car is GREAT..as long as I have the thermostat all the way in the red (hottest area) I don't really even need to turn the fan on, the heat just cranks out! Lately though (before I had the tune-up done yesterday) I noticed that every once in awhile, although the car (engine) is warmed up all the way, and is even driven for 20 minutes or so - the heater starts pumping out cold air (and yes the thermostat is set to the hottest temp). Then, after a few minutes it will turn hot again - for no apparent reason. I don't think thats normal, but then again I don't have much knowledge of such things.. The heat seems to pump out cold air intermittently then return to normal.

My question is: When something in your heater is going, does the heat just stop and never work again, or will it gradually wane away as it seems to be doing in my car? thanks!!!

Oh yea...I had the transmission serviced a few months ago (maybe a year the most) - they flushed the transmission fluid and replaced.

 

Is the CV Shaft the same thing as an axle? As far as I know they replaced the driver side CV shaft (didn't mention any axle)

Also, does anyone have an estimate on how much it would cost to replace the rubber hoses on the fuel rail?

REMINDER: I'm a 19 yr old female with VERY LITTLE knowledge of mechanics, I appreciate everyone's patience with me!

 

yup...the "CVs" are the axles...one on the pass side and one on the driver side.

there's a thermostat in the engine...if the heat in your car is hot/cold then you might have a thermostat that's not opening/closing correctly. the heat in the car is run off the heat from the coolant.

the fuel rail lines...that depends on which ones you want to do. the one(s) under the intake manifold is a huge PITA to do while the manifold is on the car.

 

Well, now that you mentioned that the heat is run off the coolant, maybe (hopefully) my problem is solved?!? I had them flush the radiator yesterday and since then I have not had the heat issue, but it's only been one day so only time will tell...
Like i said - the heat would pump cold air intermittently, not all the time so I guess I will just wait and see.

In regards to the fuel rail lines...now I'm LOST! I guess I will have to take it back to a mechanic if it doesn't go away. Supposedly he checked all the lines yesterday and couldn't find anything, but he did tighten them. However, this morning I smelled the gasoline again so the problem obviously isn't fixed. Is there any way I can tell which ones I have to replace without being charged from a mechanic for diagnostics?

 

just replace all the rubber fuel lines...it'll save you more headaches.

 

Wow i own a small shop in new york. everything was really expensive. axles are about 100-125 with a rebuilt axle THATS INSTALLED. Full tune-up we are looking at 200-250 depending what spark plugs/wires i use. also if they changed the cv joints they were working around the brakes. hope that helps

 

As for your shifter not "sensing" when it is in park or drive, etc, these cars commonly have worn out bushings under the shifter. Mine did too. But it is NOT a big job. Just get the bushings from somewhere and then take the car to the mechanic to put them in for you. You may want to call a transmission place as well to get a labor quote, just for comparison.

 

preach it ! go on ! say it again !

 

my mechanic wants to charge me 100 for each control arm for labor. Which would be better new arms or bushings. Is that a fair price for labor and 75 for an alignment.

 

the price is fair for the labor on the arm.
the additional labor to do the bushing is minimal.
alignment price is right if you have someone good doing it.
where in chicago are you?

 

Does anyone here have an estimate on how much this will cost? (Replacing ALL fuel lines, parts & labor quote) I noticed Tobe2be mentioned that he owns a shop in NY...what would that job cost at your place for a 91 Maxima SE?

Also, I know that there was a recall on my car for something that had to do with the gas tank or the fuel rail...I don't remember exactly what it was - Does anyone know what that recall was? And if so, does anyone know how I can check if my car was serviced for it prior to me owning it? Like, can I type in my VIN# somewhere to check that out? And if it wasn't done, is my car still eligible for the free repair from Nissan dealers, or is there a time limit of when you have to have it done?

As, always thanks to EVERYONE on here...this has been a really great thread with lots of great responses and I want to let everyone know that its all been greatly appeciated!!

 

recall: http://www.alldata.com/TSB/41/91411730.html

call a dealer to see if the recall was done.

it's on a case by case basis if the dealer is willing to repair it.

 

These damn CT shops be trying to cheat girls. My sister was charge 500 to get a full tune-up also. I was pissed becuase they did everything you got except CV shaft, and fuel smell. They did replace all belts but the timing belt. I was like I could have done it for the price of belts, impact hammer (to replace her warped pulley), and misc. parts. That would have been roughly 150 because she wanted all performance parts instead of OE.

 

ok here is the total that my shop would have charged you.

full tune up WITH oil change parts 135
labor on full tune up 115
rebuilt cv 40
labor on axle 60
gallon of anti-freeze 4.99
total of 355.

i sent you back a pm about my information if you want to stop by my shop.

 

First of all, thank you for your reply Tobe2be...I'm not sure if this makes a difference or not, but my axle was not rebuilt - i got it brand new because apparently the part where the axle is filled with grease (similar to a joint on our own body) was torn apart! there was sand and dirt and all kinds of grime stuck in there, thus making the grinding noise when my wheel was cut all the way. Maybe thats why they charged me their price for the shaft?? If that area on the axle is torn apart, is it still "rebuildable"?? (I saw the part with my own eyes and there was a HUGE, gaping hole, so I am not sure if you can actually "rebuild" that...wouldn't if have to be welded? And i dont know about anyone else, but that just doesnt sound safe to me...but then again what do i know?

 

in the long run you probably are better off with a new axle, im guessing they probably gave you a new *remanufactured* one. I dont know what on an axle that would have a huge hole on it other than the rubber boot around it. In which case you can just replaced the boot and have the cv repacked in grease, but since yours was grinding its good to replace, or rebuild, Id rather replace.

 

its mostlikely a new remanufactured one.....not "brand" new...

 

D D D Di DI Did did I stutter