i've been looking for some EZ outs to help with exhaust stud removal, but everything that turns up on the internet is saying bad stuff about them, how they 'break off just by being looked at too hard'.

of the people that have used them, how did you find them? -and where did you buy them?
t

 

I've not had a problem with ez outs.I got mine at sears.

 

EZ outs have saved me many times. They're Grrrrreat!

 

there great the only time i have had one break is trying to remove somthing rusted on. They are mainly for if you broke a bolt or stud and need to remove it quickly. But i havent herd anyone comlain about them break while removing the exhaust studs

 

I've had good luck with them and never really heard any bad things. awsm66, portdave and I used them to remove exhuast studs when we did that.

 

I love my EZ-outs. I even have good luck when a bolt breaks due to rust.

(Secret: Get PB Blaster and a hammer. Hose down all rusty bolts with PB, then whaxx0r the head with a hammer (breaks the rust loose) then more PB. If it still breaks when you try to pull it, don't fret! First, hose down the broken bit with PB, then get a screwdriver or something against the bolt (a narrow one if its down in a hole) whaxx0r the screwdriver top (again, to break loose rust) then more PB. Then, use a LEFT-HANDED COBALT drill bit before using the EZ-out. Between all the whaxx0ring and PB, its most likely that your broken bolt will back out just when you use the LEFT-HANDED (this is important) drill bits. You'll need a reversing drill. If not, the EZ-out and a tap wrench should do the trick nicely. Good luck!)

I've only had one break. And that was when I was using the smallest possible size EZ-out on a tiny steel bolt that had seized and broken off in an aluminum piece. Bah.

 

The tricks to EZ outs are

1. be sure and use a punch to get the hole centered on the stud...this is very important.

2. drill the hole big enough to use a larger EZ out. If you dont center the stud then you cant do this because you will get into the threads.

3. soak the studs overnight with pb blaster, wd 40 or you choice of lubs.

4. go slow with them. If it looks like you are putting too much force on them then soak it some more and try again later.

It can be done quite easily if you do it right. I have taken probably a total of 12 studs out for Maximas and have yet to break an ez out.

I have also used them for other things without breaking them as well.

I dont know off the top of my head what your other solutions are but I have just used ez outs...with great success btw.

 

When I had the heads off , I had a few broken studs. The machine shop guy just drilled the whole thing out and installed heli-coil inserts. So, if you do break a EZ out or do drill in to the threads, its not a lost cause.

 

I broke an EZ out and I am currently missing one stud on my car. I used the biggest EZ out I could for our size studs. I think it's a #2 from Sears. It snapped when I put more than 10ft-lbs of torque on it. I tried drilling the stud out with an angle attachment. Yeah right! It's tool steel. It would have taken me several hours to drill that thing out. The only way to drill it out would be to put it on a drill press and that would require head removal.

But, in my experience, EZ outs are great. I've only had one break on me. And it was such a huge pain that I never got the stud removed. But, give it a shot, use PB blaster, and be careful! I mean REAL careful when removing the broken stud.

 

thanks guys, what i take is- if you use them right, they do the job well.
is PB blaster a brand? i just got some random penetrating oil in a spray can...
t

 

This is PB Blaster. It rules all over most of the regular penetrating oils you can buy at a store.

 

 

just remember it's NOT a lubricant, it's a penetrant.

 

Whats the easiest way to get to the studs on the rear head?

 

the is really no easy way, a right angle drill will help but it's still a big hassle

If you have other work to do on the engine, consider pulling the engine. It's simple once the engine is out of the car. It's not terrribly hard to pull the engine, but it takes some time and tools.

 

Would pulling the head be practical?

 

I'd pull the engine before I pulled the head. Since you have a GXE 5spd, it sounds like you've pulled the tranny (and axles) before. Once that is out, it's really not that hard to go a little further and get the whole engine out. Just a matter of keeping track of things and keeping it all organized.

 

i got the engine mounts, crossmember, exhaust and radiator out and it looks pretty easy on the front (w/ the AC compressor out)... the back still looks tight. i went to a couple hardware stores looking for EZ outs, but all i could find were other brands (Hanson, Craftsman) "taps" they look like a steel bolt with sharp , vertically channeled threads at one end and a square head at the other, about two inches long... is that the equivalent? oh and i got the PB penetrant and it is pretty amazing!
tom

 

Yeah, I'll probably end up doing that when I pull my tranny to put in a new input shaft bearing. I just didnt feel like ****ing with the wires. I dont have a hoist, but I suppose that I could jack it enough to drop the engine onto some type of wheeled platform, especially if I put jackstands at all 4 corners.

Maybe I could jack the car, use a hoist, and just lower the engine enough for me to lay under the car and get to the studs much easier?

 

use SnAp ON or MAC reverse drill bit after you punch and before you easy out, its the smart thing to do, PB balster rules, buy it at wally world.