ok so here we go.........

it all started about maybe 4 years ago i was on my way to work one morning at about 7am got up and got in my max no signs of any problems as i drove off and headed on my way about 5mins into the drive the car lost all its power?!?!? my brakes were tight and hard to press and the car would not accelerate, and the steering wheel was almost locked, more like there was no power steering. i was able to pull over to the side luckily i was only on side streets and popped my hood and took a look. nothing i could visibly see?? so confused i called AAA to tow the car. after having the car inspected, my maxes timing belt broke and pushed valves through the cylinders 3 to be exact. not wanting to kill off my beloved max i had my max fixed. 2 years later on the way to meet all my fellow maxers to a meet out in california speedway, again, on the freeway this time, about 70 miles away form where i lived stuck on the side of the road. same problem. again the max was revived. next year and a half or so, my wife and I and my baby on the way home from cerritos mall car drove fine over there on our way back home. got on the freeway got into carpool driving fine then bam death strikes my max again. only this time i have my family in the car, in the carpool lane at 1230 in the afternoon on the 605. scared to death i have to merge off to the shoulder in order to safely be out of traffics way as i slow down from 70mph in the carpool lane to the shoulder with no power to move. this final time as i took the car in, i took it to a very good shop my dad has always gone to and they put a year warranty on the car, so, if anything like stated above happens they will fix but i must bring to them so they can fill my max with their crud oil my max is not used to . now the first shop we took it to was called watanbes. sold japanese engines and was supposed to be good, i think they F@#%ed my car and thats why it happend the second time. the second shop was also supposed to be good but still happened and i have not gone back there since. i love my max to death i put so much of my time and effort and not to mention money to keep her alive. now i know i will hear from you readers that i should have done things differently at times, but also at times it was not my decision on what to do. i was not paying for the work being done. i read in the forums on how VGs are die hards and have long lifes, i just hope i can eventually be one of those to. for... if she dies again or has another major mechanical issue that is out of my budget, i might end up maxless . so thats my story, i hope i dont get burned to bad my too many people. Also please keep in mind that i did keep up on all my major repairs and checkups. this is why i am clueless as to why these things happened . Thanks for reading. i stay true to nissan for i have in the past year came up on a 94 n/a 300zx. nissan forever!

 

Did u already read my analysis of maxed out computer environment? at
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/14
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/10
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/15
and so on...


Btw. There are cars beyond Nissan as its excellece has limits as anything human made. But excellent it is... after some tuneup when its old.

When u have that happen [u will not if u clean all u connectors] test that ECU is alive, gets its voltage. One way is to pull distributor off and rotate while ign on: solenoids will click, meaning ECU is still in control...


CDC scientist blk helicopter plot succeeded?



.

 

you make a very good point on that. and although i may have not gone as far as doing some of those major checkups myself. the ones that i was not able to do i had a mechanic do them. although its not to say that they did everything right cuz they can make mistakes too. i just hope it doesnt happen again.

 

I was told that with these cars there is zero valve clearance and that you must keep up on the timing belt replacements (every 60k miles). Anyone else ever hear about this

 

Yup, the VG is an interference engine, so if the timing belt snaps the valves go kaput. The VE is chain-driven, so no 60k intervals there.

 

Just VTC replacements every 60k.

 

mine are fine, haven't been replaced that I'm aware of

 

Zero clearance means no valve clearance tune up like most others have to do.

'Zero clearance' is the result of hydraulic self adjusting valve lifters.

...belt, yes. No problem, only work and/or ca$h 60/500$.

 

ok. so then why did it happen to me several time after all repairs were done and it was wayyyy before 60k??

 

U mean u belt snapped SEVERAL times?

S hit happens... but only once.

 

yes, 4 times actually and every time the same thing, belt snapped and engines going so valves bust my cylinders. it hurt every time

 

my guess would be that they didn't replace the timing belt tensioner and it kept the belt loose and eventually snapped it.

 

I never heard of anyone being hit more than once due to the TB breakage... I personally new a few guys who's various cars did that with different results: from no damage/throw on a new belt sort of thing, to destroyed pistons and cracked heads. Something else in the engine must be !@#$ed up so badly, say, oil leaking onto the belt or I heard of one guy driving over brush often in the countryside and his engine was straight with TB on the front, so he ended up catching a branch in it and it snapped off. If the problem persists, contact your doctor, you know what I mean? Something in the engine is really badly screwed up.

 

How many miles between? ...Unbelievable. Belts dont go like that.

Still have the same engine? Who installed 1., 2., 3., 4th belt? Nissan, Gates or what belt? Round/square teeth every time?

Ask a pro to check that u now have square teeth on square sprockets or vise versa, AND that the belt is tight. Pay$ to check out.

 

ok the first time was this place called watanabes place that was recommended to my dad. now please remember that it was not my say on where to take the car all these times because i was not paying for it. second time was to another shop my dad always went to that was a good shop he did my engine and tranny, third was another shop we took cars to that did very good work, and now the fourth is another one of my dads shop but they gave me a warranty on the engine so if anything goes wrong they will fix. now this place currently has my car because they did my oil, now i have another thread about my car hesitating which turned out (according to the shop to be the maf) they said they fixed it and i went to go pick up my car and as soon as i left it did the same thing car when braked at a light idled very rough and rpms jumped from 100-800 and when accelerating jumped back and forth while trying to also while braking. also the shop said that after they replaced the maf they said the check engine light came on a couple times but would turn off. after they ran the codes it came up a code 33 which was the exhaust gas temp sensor. so this is what im dealing with now. i miss my max when it ran like a dream

 

How many miles between belts????????????????????

One small problem is that your car does not have such sensor... maybe all those places were at hollywood studios?

Want the dream come true? Read these and DIY:
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/1

 

the sensor thing is what the shop told me. he said that after they fixed it and test drove it, the check engine light came on and went off after about 15 seconds. also the miles in between were about ohhh i would say 8 to 12k roughly i didnt drive far anywhere. i went to work and school mainly. and neither were far.

 

Thats the point: they do not know what they are talking about, less what they are doing. Should u go there? no...

Still their spoken mistake is not too bad: there is a sensor - for O2, which [if bad] causes problems.

If belt goes like that, shop which installed is responsible and should pay all costs starting from towing.

Every time u car is in shop, tell beforehand that u need the old spares and that u are going to show them to me... this story lessens the possibility of fraud. I will inspect 'em when I get the chance

DIY Start cleaning your connectors, shops will not do that even if u pay for it... if u say u cant, then educate uself. All education has costs, be it self edu -or- fishin school, so dont be afraid of breaking smtg.

 

for the -o2 sensor you said it could cause problems what kinda problems?

and i do try to do a lot of work on my car myself but when it comes to big engine things then i really dont like to mess with that becuase i dont have the machinery to do so

 

MAF [input] and O2 [output] give the tiny winy signals to ECU. [signal level is 0,5V or even less - consider this to the truth that easily four feet cable loose one = 1Volt]

Based on these poor sigh_nalls, ECU tries to figure out what happened with the last bIG bANG.

As most scientist, it has mostly no clue. But anyhow ECU [and s.] insists on adjusting peoples lives on this theoretical hearsay.

Seriously: Injection is based on these two inputs after warmup. If the inputs are not good, then clearly ECU is lost and all kinds sputtering occurs.

Changing O2 is not bad idea if u suspect it (maybe 50$), but MAF should be verified first 200-555???. Ask price from internetautomator.

But surely ! ten year old car has oxidated connectors which cause greater signal losses than the input signals. Clean, --->be troublefree.

I have not had any problems (newbie maxowner) with O2, so maybe u should start a new thread and holler help for O2 symptoms - if necessary...