Perfomance Mod Or NOT?
02-20-2005, 04:54 PM
#1
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 52
Perfomance Mod Or NOT?
Just wondering if anyone knows anything about these So-Called Performance Chips???
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...sPageName=WDVW
???
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...sPageName=WDVW
???
02-20-2005, 09:58 PM
#7
I did....I was even dumber and bought a 30 dollar one thinking it was "special", theres a meager performance (like none) increase and a very small change in sound. I wouldn't buy one for my new max, it is a waste and the people who sell them should burn. 
02-21-2005, 12:38 AM
#10
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Originally Posted by Matt93SE
they're simply making money off the stupid.
when are people going to realize you're not going to "unleash the power" for a mere $10.....
Power costs money. how rich are you?
when are people going to realize you're not going to "unleash the power" for a mere $10.....
Power costs money. how rich are you?
...well, with 10$ u get a drill bit, right?
Std stock air inlets are normally choked beacuse of noise & low end torq. I u care more of pwr, just drill filterbox to get significant boost. How big it is, depends on the vehicle characteristics:
see: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/2
.
02-21-2005, 07:40 AM
#12
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Originally Posted by Matt93SE
that'll gain you a couple, but the best way to gain power from an intake is to remove it and replace with a better cone filter and a properly designed intake tube.
Still, cheape$t way to kick the idle horses onto arena. Better intake tube yess, but until dyno proven, my opinion is that cone will get but few rabbits more. The filter model e.g. flow capacity defines more. FRAM seems [just opinion] to be better than Nissan original flow (in the stock class).
02-21-2005, 08:49 AM
#16
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Originally Posted by Red92MaxSE
getting cold air (and more of it), along with a better flowing exhaust is dyno proven to get more hp.
I get cold air always for my horses as I drive. No need of dynohorses which work only in stationary stable...
It may be so that at launch lower input suction pipe might have some% gain, dunno, no REAL life tests done. At least not presented to me.
Next time u are on track, do test with/without the pipe extension to get some data.
----------------------------------------------------------------
Better filter is always better, and does make a real difference. Diesel does not care too much... Only airflow counts, not color.
Note: I am not saying that the best tubings (few are) with higher capacity filter and lower intake is not better, surely is. But how much? I dare to suspect that not much...
But compared to the price of holes, no way mister anythin work$ better.
(The lower your air input is, the more ofthen u need to change filters. Does not matter too much, though)
Dear sirs, u are rich: have all the widgets, dynos and u do go racing: test and give us the numbers. After multiple vehicle tests with same air intake elements, as u provide data here, I will shut up
...edit: besides, u see in the pic that I get better cooling for my autotranny resistor.
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02-21-2005, 09:00 AM
#17
I'm thinking if you can add a fan or motor of some sort just before the filter to create a vacuum force that will suck in more air, no matter how slow/fast you are driving. I was even going along the line of rigging up a portable air pump/presssurizer(the cheap, fix a flat pump that will plug into your cig lighter) that will continously introduces air into the intake with and modding the air ducts to blow AC air directly at the tank, and once the metal casing gets cold, the air will be slightly cooler (helps on a summer day). Don't know if it will work, just putting my idea out there. Please gimme some input, and flame away if you guys think its stupid.
02-21-2005, 09:13 AM
#18
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Originally Posted by disgruntled
I'm thinking if you can add a fan or motor of some sort just before the filter to create a vacuum force that will suck in more air, no matter how slow/fast you are driving. I was even going along the line of rigging up a portable air pump/presssurizer(the cheap, fix a flat pump that will plug into your cig lighter) that will continously introduces air into the intake with and modding the air ducts to blow AC air directly at the tank, and once the metal casing gets cold, the air will be slightly cooler (helps on a summer day). Don't know if it will work, just putting my idea out there. Please gimme some input, and flame away if you guys think its stupid.
No flame, just figuring out the the video: the BMW behind u will get a surprise hole in winshield as that propeller bits shoots outta maxima exhaust pipe. This is the result of your horses sucking that tiny winy propeller and all attachment screws into engine...
The airspeed at full throttle nears sound speed. No way to hlp it with fans. And with that speed, the air has no time cool or warm in the 'tunnels': needs a real big cooler with a lot of cooling surface area. Btw. That cooler could help even without turbo...
02-21-2005, 09:32 AM
#19
Hmm, didn't think of THAT scenerio, but if the induction force is that great, then screw the fan in the tunnel idea. So now the only idea that remains afloat is introducing massive air right to the filter, or maybe adding one of those electric cool thing(thermoelectric cooler) attached to the air compressor tank, hell, I can line up the whole intake tube up to the filter box with these things and basically have a cooling tunnel.
Works better with a mandrel bent aluminum tube (i.e. CAI without the set up)
Works better with a mandrel bent aluminum tube (i.e. CAI without the set up)
02-21-2005, 09:58 AM
#20
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Originally Posted by disgruntled
Hmm, didn't think of THAT scenerio, but if the induction force is that great, then screw the fan in the tunnel idea. So now the only idea that remains afloat is introducing massive air right to the filter, or maybe adding one of those electric cool thing(thermoelectric cooler) attached to the air compressor tank, hell, I can line up the whole intake tube up to the filter box with these things and basically have a cooling tunnel.
Works better with a mandrel bent aluminum tube (i.e. CAI without the set up)
Works better with a mandrel bent aluminum tube (i.e. CAI without the set up)
...maybe ? exxaggerated a SMALL bit. The suction force is not that bad. But the volume needed at full throttle, is no business for fans: visualizing how/ why the fan takes 120.000rpm - oh boy... check why/how turbos are built...
Somebody sells these fanny '69$ turbos' on the net. Should be jailed...
I have sometimes thought that (?) compressed air tank: u need lots of air just for six ? seconds... take a tank, small compressor, then release all at once. Would that freeze tha whole intake solid???
Edit: Btw. The current intake is heavily wrmed via cooling liquid. Try choking that flow off first. (Not idle intake flap flow)
02-21-2005, 10:05 AM
#21
I was going along the line of regulating the released air at about 5 cfm or more, as the steady resupply/discharge of the air compressor will also serve to cool the tank down since constantly moving air = cooler surroundoings. That + the thermoelectric coolers on the intake tube should cool the air down to a couple of degrees. Since colder air contains more O2 (more condensed), it will help with the fuel burning ratio of the car in the summer, and just shut the whole thing off in the winter unless you want to super freeze the thing. The compressor will not overload, since it will be able to have intermittent off time, allowing it to rest. How does that sound?
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