The old girl just failed inspection due to a steering rack, front and rear struts and tires.
Have any of you Do-It-Yourself types ever changed struts or the steering rack on your Maxi?
I have a good selection of tools, and am somewhat mechanically inclined, but I'm debating whether or not to do this one myself. Unfortunately, if I need to take it to a shop to have the work done, the labor cost may be prohibitive when weighed against the value of the car.

Thoughts?

 

struts are easy. rack is a bit more involved.
there is a writeup on doing the rack if you search

 

Fixed.

 

yeah struts arent bad at all, just unbolt the assembly from all the various suspension parts and the top three chassis bolts. The only problem i ever had with rear struts was all the bars you had to unbolt it from on the bottom. If you can do a y-pipe, brake job, or belts don't fear the struts. You will need to rent a spring compressor. Autozone will loan you one for 40 bucks. You give them 40 and take the compressor and when u bring it back, they give you your money back. Definately do the struts on your own.

 

+1 for doing your own struts. You will need a long breaker bar, 2 open ended 19mm wrenches and a full set of metric sockets and you are all set.

 

My O pinion: Maxima front was the easiast I have done. Rear like any other.

I like this link, whose it is? some guru here? Pic! (non pigs):
http://www.4dsc.com/articles/suspens...h_tokico.shtml

 

I had no problems doing the struts and rack. There is one mount bolt on the rack that is kinda tough, but not impossible. It slides out the drivers' side with no problems. Here's some good info on a 300Z site: http://www.z31.com/repairs/rack.shtml

 

Thanks for the great information everyone. I'm convinced I can do all 4 struts myself (the fronts look very easy), but I'm wondering if anyone has found a link to a write-up on a Maxima steering rack?

 

The front and the back are equally easy, but you need some muscle power, specially for the front. If you are prepared with all the tools - it's a joke. I was not and had to go buy more wrenches twice, so I was sweating like a hog. Be prepared and it will be an easy job to do.

 

Tarzan, u are sweating!!?? Must be tropical monkeyfever... Gotta get fast on a plane to londondoc.

 

Anyone feel free to jump in here. I had a hell of a time getting the springs to compress enough on my 92 maxima - every photo I saw has the compressor on the inner spring coils. My solution was to start the spring compressor on the outside of the plate that rests on top of the spring, then grab as far down as I could. Bear in mind that this plate is NOT symmetrical, and the position of it relative to the spring should be preserved - another reason why I believe this is the way to go on this one. Took me 4 hrs. to do the first side and about 1.5 to do the other!!! See this pic:

http://www.adjeweb.com/pics/strut.jpg

 

Pic: Sorry to inform: I would not work with such missile explosive compressors. Only safe compressor has doublehooks on both ends. I have used such thinnies; shoots nice through garage.

Your compressor RH hook [on top right of pic] should be inserted on the very bottom of spring.

 

I second Wiking's opinion. The compressors that you have used are probably for Civics or Fiats. Plus you hooked them up to the plate on top, I honestly do not know if you risk anything by doing that, but looks scary to me.

 

Worst of all, maybe they were for Fords... Used on peugeot 505 diesel wagon springs - and will never use again.

I did try to search for the compressor available down the hill...with double hooks. That will not slip away. For my eyes, that picture thinny is already bending? I think it looks scary, about to slip. But if I was Tarzan, Me not afraid. And maybe u have played with exactly that thing, I have not: u're right in that. No real hands on experience but with thinny euro beans.

Maybe this is somewhat better.


http://www.chain-auto-tools.com/unde...ls/AMM374E.htm


Edit: halfway house -tool...


http://www.toolaid.com/new_toolaid/hotstuff.html

 

Great information in this thread. Thanks for all the great replies.

Local auto place (V.I.P. in Somersworth NH) quoted me $400 installed for the rack (includes alignment). I may go with them rather than futz with it myself -- safer that way!

 

Its ok. IF. They via lottery happen to install it right...

I was miraculously saved from accident after such disservice: criminal negligence! That started my car "repair life" at 18. I decides that I can also ruin my cars, all FREE! Since done all myself, u learn only by DIY, not PO$.

 

Try to get a hold of a tool like that:

 

"Try to get a hold of a tool like that:"

Hey that looks also secure for this job.

 

Well, after all this great advice I will do the struts myself, but when I break down the cost of the steering rack by this equation:
Parts: $175; Labor: $175; Alignment: $50 = $400
versus:
Parts $175; Labor: my time; Alignment: $50 = $225 + my aggravation
I hate to pi$$ on the whole 'shade tree mechanic' aspect of what we do here, but with steering, there are too many variables and I'd rather have it right.

 

Just take your time when doing the struts yourself, it can get a bit messy when doing the rears, with all the strut oil. It took me about 3 nights to do my struts ans axles. The front are really easy. also do one side at a time completely so you can refer back to the other.
while on the subject, does anyone know how much fluid to put into the rear struts?? I just filled it to about 2-4 inches from the top, as per 4dsc.com instrutctions..does anyone have an exact number of the amount to be poured into the rears??