With one projector in, one LED turn signal (not working at the moment) and half of my HUD project done, I've decided to stop and work on some more important stuff to help the longetivity of my max

I bought some Naval Jelly tonight, and got some Bondo, I get paid tomorrow so first thing after filling my empty tank will be getting some Rustoleum (best brand? recommended by Brian/1992MaxMan) Primer/Base/Clear..

I'm looking for help/tips/suggestions from some of you paint/body work gurus, here are some pics of my problem, I've got the bad part on the rear driver side fender lip, which I planned on dremeling out (heh) and hoping someone in the classifieds with a parts car could dremel out a piece from the same area that I could purchase..so if you have a parts car PM me. My other problems are on pretty much surface rust on the rear of either rocker panel, the picture is of the driver's side...There are a couple spots around the rest of the car, some on the drivers door, inside and out, a couple tiny spots on the roof and some other spots underneat the back seat on some weld seams...

From what Brian and I have discussed I am supposed to sand it off, to get a lot of the surface rust/dirt off of it, apply the Naval Jelly according to it's instructions then prime/base/clear. Let me get some help people!





..dmad

 

Rustoleum might be best for the primer/undercoat, but since it will be outside the exterior paint might best be paintmatched by either a pro, or Duplicolor/similar brand.

 

Dude that's some nasty rust!
now I really feel bad you didn't get the red one. it didn't have rust

 

well I cant help you out. I have already promised my piece to James. I just need to go cut it off since I got a replacement sawzall to do it with.

What you have there is a major job though. I am not sure how you are going to connect it without a welder and how good you are with molding/shaping bondo. you actually need fiberglass reinforced filler...I prefer Evercoat (kitty-hair) products because they are better quality than bondo at around the same price. Dynatron (dyna-glass) is also a good brand (upper end filler made by Bondo...yes Dynatron is a much better product than just Bondo even though its made by the same company).

another really good filler by Evercoat is metal-to-metal. I have used it before and really like it.

You may get by for a little while if you cut all and I do mean ALL of the rust out and use JB Weld to connect the new piece. If you do this you will need to grind down to the metal where you connect the pieces so the JB Weld has a good mating surface to stick to.

Then use the fiberglass reinforced filler over that (not much though).

 

p.s.

If you want the paint to match at least closely go by a PPG or DuPont dealer and let them use their paint matching gun on the car. Then buy a pint of paint (all you will need but will be around $30 or so) and a quart of clear (probably as small as you can get). Be sure and get mixing cups for their products and mix it like it says. Then buy a prevail sprayer (around $5 or so) to do your painting. That will give you a pretty decent match and will look much better than the rust at least.

 

I had identicle rust and i just took care of mine. grinded it all out, welded new metal in, bondo, sand, and paint. Putting the new metal in was hard, had to like bang it into shape . I only have one pic on my comp and it is of the new metal (more like old metal) and its a ****ty pic because due to the shape was hard as hell! I was experimenting wiht the whole project but , believe it or not, it came out great. the bono helped out alot. more pics to come [IMG]C:\Documents and Settings\Owner\My Documents\My Pictures\July 15th ill nanny[/IMG]

 

maybe that picture didnt work. hold up

 

You cant link a pic from your computer. You have to host it somewhere such as cardomain or somthing.

 

I'm not much into bodywork or anything, although I'm hoping to learn more about it...all the rust I didn't think it was that bad? I planned on just getting all the rust of the rocker panels, filling it with bondo then sanding/smoothing it and painting it with rustoleum primer/base/clear, I'm not really worried about the color matching and was just gonna paint it black, I figure if I have my dad paint the car I'll wait 'til then to worry about it matching..

As far as the fender lip I was just gonna dremel it out and get a piece from someone and have a friend of mine weld it in and then sand/smooth/maybe use some bondo then primer/base/clear the same way I would with the rocker panels and not worry about the color matching, I just don't want the rust or it spreading any longer..I'm gonna use this all to help me with my bodywork/paint experience and appreciate your guys' help, I'll update when I start working on it actually..

Anyone have a parts car they'd be willing to cut that piece out for me? If you do I'll take a better picture (with the door open) and outline where I'd like you to cut it and whatnot..

 

You would be best served taking a welding course at your local community college. After you do that, you should be able to cut the piece out, then weld in a non-rusty one and reshape it.

That, or save your nickels and dimes and head to a good body shop.

 

Whatever u do, next year rust will pop out. Luckily I got my car in pristine condition, and got the oil before rust has popped on the surface. This happens way later than innards are dangerously rusted...



The only thing that I am aware that attacks this, is oil spray on the chassis structure inside after any weld job. It pushes the ever present condensation water off from microcraks.

Check end o page: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/17


Nuisance well tolerated: Oil seeping through seams:

 

ExAmple: 1 month old Mazda6 (Model2004) --- no rust proofing. Or how is a ford door after 5 years...









lol! Check out Mercedes -99 with 30 year nonrust warranty... I am so happy withohohout Benz...