Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

New toys for upcoming projects....

Old: http://mattblehm.com/pics/car/brakes...s/100_0631.JPG

New: http://mattblehm.com/pics/car/brakes...s/100_0638.JPG

Comparison: http://mattblehm.com/pics/car/brakes...s/100_0632.JPG

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Why more bias in the front? Looks nice though!

MrGone

iTrader: (30)

driving the car helps aswell







edit: ricer

edit2:

MrGone

iTrader: (30)

oh and what kind of paint did you use to cover up the mud flap paint gaps?

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Que?



Jeffy, these pistons are much smaller than the ones in the old calipers. the brake bias will be better.. Just because the caliper body is larger doesn't mean the pistons are as well.

mtnbikeair

iTrader: (4)

You want to sell me your old brakes?

woodman

I just registered so the site will not let me post hense the reply, but I have a question.

The contact points on my locks (driver and passenger are shot) So... the only way to dissengage my alarm before I enter my car is by opening the trunk. Well, I get tired of this. I have tried pulling 'security', and 'alarm' fuse but that does nothing. I have gotten to the point where I want to just cut my horn wires but I would like to see if anyone else has an idea or knows of a wire I can snip to simply dissengage JUST the alarm system.
Thanks

wooddrr@yahoo.com

Luquire

Matt i think your modding bug is creaping over to me. I am so close to getting new tires, shocks, and a rear sway bar. I hate you.......

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

woodman... you need new lock cylinders in each door it sounds like.
when you turn the key, there's a part of the lock that connects the alarm disarm wire to ground. that's not happening in your case, on either door... I was under the assumption that you can pull the door handle and lock apart and clean the contacts on them, but I've also been told that you can't clean them and they must be replaced...


Matt, you NEED new shocks! your car rides like a$$!!

mtnbikeair, they *might* be for sale sometime, but I'm going to be using the same rotors for the new ones as I'm currently using.
the calipers will also work with R32 Skyline rotors, which is what I used before I built the 2-pc rotors..
but hold on a while and I may have some new 2 pc rotors that will work great with them.

mtnbikeair

iTrader: (4)

Okay thats cool, how much do cool brakes like yours cost?

MrGone

iTrader: (30)

I thought your car came with factory splash gaurds and took them off because of the scraping. I remember in one of your pics you had that 2-3" gap of the dark grey paint on the bottom missing.

edit:
http://mattblehm.com/pics/car/IM000890.JPG

kcidmil

Looks like something is missing to me.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Yeah.. that was the other side of the car..
for some strange reason, they left it like that when they repainted the car. laaaaazy body guy, IMO. could spend the time to mask off aorund the mudguard thingy, but couldn't just remove 3 screws and paint it properly.

the driver side was done correctly, as you can see. strange. :shrug:



mtnbikeair, depending on how much you do yourself, (design, fabricating brackets, etc). you can have a setup similar to my old one for about $700.
that's homemade mounting brackets for the calipers, custom brake lines, plus the calipers, pads, and custom rotors.

If you want the larger calipers like what I just bought, it's going to cost around $1000 using the same rotors and lines. You'll need new pads, calipers, brackets, etc since the mounting points change.

IMO, your best bet if you want to do all that is to buy one of the kits already out there. you'll spent a couple hundred more bucks on a kit that's already had the design work and bugs worked out of it. otherwise you end up doing things 2-3-4 times like I have. (I've switched rotors twice and calipers once trying to get my brake bias corrected).

erty67

iTrader: (104)

nice nice!

ANDREYCAMARGO

Looks nice!