driving me crazey
03-25-2005, 09:21 PM
#1
driving me crazey
ok so for about the last 3-4 monthes my car has been ideling at around 500 when im at a stop light and it vibrates pretty bad....now latly in the last 2 days it has gotten really bad....it shakes and bogs like mad.....kinda like a chugging like it is not getting fuel....and then when i give it the gas to go it just revs up and chugs then goes......any one got any ideas?........
03-25-2005, 09:25 PM
#3
i got new spark plugs and a cap and roter...i went to get spark plugs but the ones i got from autozone were broke so i returned them to find out it was the only pair...how much does an o2 sensor cost?
03-25-2005, 10:21 PM
#7
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Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
Originally Posted by 4thgradedropout
...i ment spark plug wires.....
Originally, and all aftermarket "wirings" are carbon-fiber wires. Their superior property is radio frequency suppression e.g. less static noise which has some capability of causing electronics problems. Mainly this is problematic with audio equipment. HELLO! ...audio equipment dictate your power output!!?
How this static suppression is achieved? With choking electron flow, making the "wires" a resistors. This resistor is actually a carbon rubberbag supported with glass fiber threads. Glass fiber is an insulator, as is the rubber tube, so the job to conduct electrons is left to this carbon powder. Brilliant, eh? Use choking resistance to "boost" your spark? Poor electrons, trying to jump from one soot particle to next, on their journey to your spark plugs. Zillions jumps reducing their energy before their actual job is due.
All this happens in hot, vibrating environment, where soot particles drift in one end of the bags, causing wide caps with no conducting dust... No wonder it sputters!
Sootbag hose (some call ign wIre) with all conducting dust flown to hawaii...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Soobag set 70$, no work
REAL Wire: 4$
Caps: 6pcs x 2$ =12$
Self vulcanizing tape: 8$
---->Grand Total: 24$
Work: 3hours
for details click on http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/12
03-26-2005, 01:55 PM
#9
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Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 103
The spark plugs might not even be the issue. Your engine probably has 100k+ miles on it, I'd rip open that thottle body and shoot some carbeurator cleaner if you find it's dirty - as a quick fix which might bring you back up to around 700rpm idle, and after that...check the 02 sensor (my current problem).
03-26-2005, 06:54 PM
#10
Wiking- don't know what wires you are showing in your pic, but that looks like my TV cable wire. not very effecient at transmitting high voltage. electrons travel around the outside of the wire strands, so multiple strands are better than single strands. also the purity/ composition of the conductor will affect the quality as well.
you NEED the suppression to avoid affecting your computer and igniter, not just your radio.
you NEED the suppression to avoid affecting your computer and igniter, not just your radio.
03-27-2005, 10:55 PM
#13
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
my tv cable has one center conductor and a shield around the outside.Don't know about yours. that's what it looks to me like he's using
looks like single conductor to me.
The whole idea of trying to get electronics run over carbon is ridiculous. New carbon ash hoses are quite often useless even !before installation: resistances 15-20kOhm or more. Shakin' engines increas ashflow in the rubberhoses resulting in random spark... Well, some manufacturesrs have stepped down from ideological high ground and have 'downgraded' to REAL wire... at least NGK carbon bags do nowadays contain one tiny whiny wire.
BTW. Maxima and/or its electronics do NOT !NEVER need any suppressors, please read my web page.
Resistor is a resistor and resists electron flow as like its name tells for us... Nobody needs really that for sparks. But alas, there is always a 'complainin' neighbor listening to the airvawes affected with non resisted high voltage electron transmissions.
Of course maxima grounding points have to be well maintained... 'Pioneers' do need: often enough is 1kOhm spark plug cap.
Those one kilo-ohm resistor plugs are 'hard to be found', as usually shops offer 5-6kOhm plug caps. Typically they even go with the same part number! One kilo caps gives more smooth idle.
Well, anyways this is 'dying history' business: coilpack bizne$$ will run over. Always newer solution is more expensive, gue$$ why...
03-28-2005, 06:50 AM
#14
the "slice" your pic shows is just of the outer jacket. it does not show the actual conductor part of the wire. the carbon is there for noise suppresion which CAN and WILL cause problems to unshielded electrical components.
Believe me when I say that I have seen more unusual problems caused by what shouldn't have caused them then you will ever see in a car.
of course I deal with probably 1-200 cars a week listening to the problems, but hey what do I know.
Believe me when I say that I have seen more unusual problems caused by what shouldn't have caused them then you will ever see in a car.
of course I deal with probably 1-200 cars a week listening to the problems, but hey what do I know.
03-28-2005, 07:30 AM
#16
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
the "slice" your pic shows is just of the outer jacket. it does not show the actual conductor part of the wire. the carbon is there for noise suppresion which CAN and WILL cause problems to unshielded electrical components.
Believe me when I say that I have seen more unusual problems caused by what shouldn't have caused them then you will ever see in a car.
of course I deal with probably 1-200 cars a week listening to the problems, but hey what do I know.
Believe me when I say that I have seen more unusual problems caused by what shouldn't have caused them then you will ever see in a car.
of course I deal with probably 1-200 cars a week listening to the problems, but hey what do I know.
"the outer jacket" ...u did NOT visit my web page. Why? Easier to argue? I dont like that, lets keep on pure facts.
"does not show the actual conductor" ...ABSOLUTELY shows !that = HOLE = nonexistent! Conductor? Only ash... ORIGINAL NISSAN stealership pro Duct...
Believe me when I say that I have seen more unusual problems caused by what shouldn't have caused them *SOOTBAGS* then you will ever see in a car.
Who rolls here dice Gold medal for digital electronics? ... Pls. Try to beat me down with facts, not with feelings.
"of course I deal with probably 1-200 cars a week listening to the problems, but hey what do I know." Surely u see as many cars a day as I see pines, but what that has to do with basic electronics facts? And/or professional merit on electronics.
----------------------------------------------------------------
Issue/Facts:
Now return to the issue: conducting buziness, soot is not a conductor, that fact does not change.
My car with real wires can beat any on its class. That fact does not change.
My car with real wires, 1k suppressors does not cause radio frequency inteference to any thing/body. That fact does not change.
The actual measured spark with wires is considerably better, than with soot resistors. The greater resistance, the less spark. That fact does not change.
03-28-2005, 07:45 AM
#17
Wiking- your facts are skewed. You let your wires go way too long before replacement if they looked like that.
you can have your opinions I will have my facts proven by experience
you can have your opinions I will have my facts proven by experience
03-28-2005, 07:48 AM
#18
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Originally Posted by Nocheez
so what's the verdict here? i also have a slightly rough idle, and the car will drop 50 RPMS suddenly, and then catch itself every 5 seconds or so. it vibrates pretty bad when sitting at a light, as well.
03-28-2005, 08:11 AM
#20
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
Wiking- your facts are skewed. You let your wires go way too long before replacement if they looked like that.
you can have your opinions I will have my facts proven by experience
you can have your opinions I will have my facts proven by experience
As u boast over measure, please next prove us here your electronics "experienceheh".
???Experience: Do you STILL CONTINUE destroying car computers by disconnecting alt wires on the run? Even if ALL sources starting from FSM say NO, loud and clear NOOO. Hello? You are quite an authority as u claim that "FSM facts are skewed."
Well, you just want arguments. Easy life: no need FSM or OHMS LAW; sorry, not for me. I dont own Electronics facts or ohms law, sorry, no use arguing against me. You go to school for 'em... Pls only after engineering degree in electronics---> start to boast. I suggest that not even then, people tend to laugh.
Life is weird. This is the END of useless arguments on this issue.
03-28-2005, 08:13 AM
#21
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Originally Posted by Nocheez
i want to know what the common causes of low idle and subsequent vibrations are 
new to the max community, don't have much to offer (unless you need help on a Mark 3 Supra)
new to the max community, don't have much to offer (unless you need help on a Mark 3 Supra)http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/1
03-28-2005, 08:18 AM
#22
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 51
Originally Posted by Wiking
If u can ? read, then click on this as suggested zillion times on this forum:
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/1
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/1
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