Kaleb, Matt, Anyone... Pulley Info Please
10-09-2000, 08:55 AM
#1
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Does anyone have a diagram of all of the pulleys for the VG30DE engine? Like a listing of which ones go to what, or some kind of numbering system? I think that I need to replace one or two, but don't know which one is which. Also, if a pulley has a slight wobble, can it be corrected by tightening the hex bolt?
10-09-2000, 09:10 AM
#3
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Originally posted by Nismo87SE
If your crank pulley or any pulley is wobbling remove it immediatly. I though the crank pulley was just one piece? If your pulley is wobbling you should get another from a junkyard.
If your crank pulley or any pulley is wobbling remove it immediatly. I though the crank pulley was just one piece? If your pulley is wobbling you should get another from a junkyard.
How do you tell which pulley is what?
10-09-2000, 10:52 AM
#4
the crank pulley is the large one at the bottom.
Each pulley has an independent function (one is for alternator belt, one for A/C compressor, one for power steering pump, etc.).. they are named accordingly. usually the pulley that goes bad is the A/C belt tensioner pulley, located right in the middle of all that mess on the belt side of the engine. it's near the top and connects only to the A/C compressor. there is a tensioner and the bolt that goes through it. try tightening the bolt that goes throught he center before you replace the entire pulley. they're about $40 from a dealer. if it is indeed bad, you can pop the bearing out and replace it with a $4 bearing from an auto parts store. just take it in there and get the new bearing before you try to remove the old one and make sure the new one will fit. (you can remove the A/C compressor belt and the car is still driveable- you just don't have air conditioning in the meantime.)
blah blah blah.. you can replace the bearing yourself with simple shop tools like a couple large sockets and a bench vice (to press the old bearing out and new one in.)
you'll need a 12mm socket with a coupld of 6" extensions to remove the pulley. (the nut for the tensioner is way down there)
hope that helps.
Each pulley has an independent function (one is for alternator belt, one for A/C compressor, one for power steering pump, etc.).. they are named accordingly. usually the pulley that goes bad is the A/C belt tensioner pulley, located right in the middle of all that mess on the belt side of the engine. it's near the top and connects only to the A/C compressor. there is a tensioner and the bolt that goes through it. try tightening the bolt that goes throught he center before you replace the entire pulley. they're about $40 from a dealer. if it is indeed bad, you can pop the bearing out and replace it with a $4 bearing from an auto parts store. just take it in there and get the new bearing before you try to remove the old one and make sure the new one will fit. (you can remove the A/C compressor belt and the car is still driveable- you just don't have air conditioning in the meantime.)
blah blah blah.. you can replace the bearing yourself with simple shop tools like a couple large sockets and a bench vice (to press the old bearing out and new one in.)
you'll need a 12mm socket with a coupld of 6" extensions to remove the pulley. (the nut for the tensioner is way down there)
hope that helps.
10-09-2000, 12:20 PM
#5
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Originally posted by Matt93GXE
the crank pulley is the large one at the bottom.
Each pulley has an independent function (one is for alternator belt, one for A/C compressor, one for power steering pump, etc.).. they are named accordingly. usually the pulley that goes bad is the A/C belt tensioner pulley, located right in the middle of all that mess on the belt side of the engine. it's near the top and connects only to the A/C compressor. there is a tensioner and the bolt that goes through it. try tightening the bolt that goes throught he center before you replace the entire pulley. they're about $40 from a dealer. if it is indeed bad, you can pop the bearing out and replace it with a $4 bearing from an auto parts store. just take it in there and get the new bearing before you try to remove the old one and make sure the new one will fit. (you can remove the A/C compressor belt and the car is still driveable- you just don't have air conditioning in the meantime.)
blah blah blah.. you can replace the bearing yourself with simple shop tools like a couple large sockets and a bench vice (to press the old bearing out and new one in.)
you'll need a 12mm socket with a coupld of 6" extensions to remove the pulley. (the nut for the tensioner is way down there)
hope that helps.
the crank pulley is the large one at the bottom.
Each pulley has an independent function (one is for alternator belt, one for A/C compressor, one for power steering pump, etc.).. they are named accordingly. usually the pulley that goes bad is the A/C belt tensioner pulley, located right in the middle of all that mess on the belt side of the engine. it's near the top and connects only to the A/C compressor. there is a tensioner and the bolt that goes through it. try tightening the bolt that goes throught he center before you replace the entire pulley. they're about $40 from a dealer. if it is indeed bad, you can pop the bearing out and replace it with a $4 bearing from an auto parts store. just take it in there and get the new bearing before you try to remove the old one and make sure the new one will fit. (you can remove the A/C compressor belt and the car is still driveable- you just don't have air conditioning in the meantime.)
blah blah blah.. you can replace the bearing yourself with simple shop tools like a couple large sockets and a bench vice (to press the old bearing out and new one in.)
you'll need a 12mm socket with a coupld of 6" extensions to remove the pulley. (the nut for the tensioner is way down there)
hope that helps.
I think its the pulley that (if you are looking down on the engine) it seems to be on the lowest point of the engine pulley mass. It appears to be two-pulleys joined together. Or at least the one that extends the furtherest and seems to be the closest to passanger side fender. Can all of the pulleys be replaced relatively easily? Do all of the pulleys cost around the same amount?
10-09-2000, 01:17 PM
#6
if it's the large one at the veyr bottom, that's your crank pulley.. that one is $$$. That's also the one Kaleb is working on getting a lightweight aluminum one produced... I dunno price on it.
your best bet would be to go to the junkyard and get another. they simply bolt on, but they're a ***** to get off because the fit on the shaft through the center is VERY tight. you'll need a "pulley puller" to get it off. you can preobably borrow or rent one from most parts stores. hope that helps.
your best bet would be to go to the junkyard and get another. they simply bolt on, but they're a ***** to get off because the fit on the shaft through the center is VERY tight. you'll need a "pulley puller" to get it off. you can preobably borrow or rent one from most parts stores. hope that helps.
10-09-2000, 03:38 PM
#7
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 648
Has anyone installed a new performance pulley on a VG30E max. If so can you tell any differences. When I look at the dyno chart for the sway the look pretty substansial, but I tend to think that the power gains might not be as much as they appear to be. Thanks
92GXE, touring wing, 18” racing wheels, Port&Polished intake, custom intake, custom yellow interior, racing seats, back seats taken out and replaced with subs and amps, NOS kit, Suspension tech. Lowering springs, custom grille, soon to be custom painted and have the whole engine rebuilt for big shot NOS and custom SC and tranny converted to 5-speed
92GXE, touring wing, 18” racing wheels, Port&Polished intake, custom intake, custom yellow interior, racing seats, back seats taken out and replaced with subs and amps, NOS kit, Suspension tech. Lowering springs, custom grille, soon to be custom painted and have the whole engine rebuilt for big shot NOS and custom SC and tranny converted to 5-speed
10-09-2000, 06:08 PM
#11
yeah but what i was saying was that all the claimed horsepower that the companies advertise is with the o/d off and it isnt that high with the o/d on. look at http://www.gen3.4mg.com under the library section and look at the dyno graph for the udp. the "gain" is with the o/d off. also i was talkin to this guy that has the udp and said there was virtually no power gain when the o/d was on. i dont know what effect the o/d has so i cant really get technical.
10-09-2000, 08:03 PM
#12
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Posts: 648
So does the pulley help out or not? How much does it cost and is it worth it? I dont understand the OD thing but as long as it gets results I want it. The other 3rd Gen. site claims that it adds like 12hp. or something crazy like that. I could understand that kind of gain with a whole pulley set, but not with one pulley. I want to know from experience if it is better and not just from some dyno. Thanks
92GXE, touring wing, 18” racing wheels, Port&Polished intake, custom intake, custom yellow interior, racing seats, back seats taken out and replaced with subs and amps, NOS kit, Suspension tech. Lowering springs, custom grille, soon to be custom painted and have the whole engine rebuilt for big shot NOS and custom SC and tranny converted to 5-speed.
92GXE, touring wing, 18” racing wheels, Port&Polished intake, custom intake, custom yellow interior, racing seats, back seats taken out and replaced with subs and amps, NOS kit, Suspension tech. Lowering springs, custom grille, soon to be custom painted and have the whole engine rebuilt for big shot NOS and custom SC and tranny converted to 5-speed.
10-09-2000, 08:11 PM
#13
this is what michael lynch told me in an e-mail
he has a 93 se auto
QUOTE:
"Now for the UDP, I got it from a company in Texas,
they are call Auto Specialist (887) 978-8678
http://www.aspracing.com If you call them or check their web
site they have the UDP listed on 89-94 DOHC, but it
should have read 92-94 DOHC. I told them about this
so hopefully they have changed their listing. I did
not notice any HP gains with the pulley, but again I
have not had a chance to dyno the car after the
pulley. If you have a auto like myself, I wouldn't
really recommend the UDP. Maybe after I dyno the car
and see the gains if any I might change my mind about
the pulley, right now I running 176FWHP from a auto.
The reason I would not recommend the UDP if you have a
auto because you're removing your OEM harmonic
balancer to install the UDP and doing this causing the
engine not to idle as smooth as before when it's in
gear. Once in park or neutral it idles as smooth as
before."
he has a 93 se auto
QUOTE:
"Now for the UDP, I got it from a company in Texas,
they are call Auto Specialist (887) 978-8678
http://www.aspracing.com If you call them or check their web
site they have the UDP listed on 89-94 DOHC, but it
should have read 92-94 DOHC. I told them about this
so hopefully they have changed their listing. I did
not notice any HP gains with the pulley, but again I
have not had a chance to dyno the car after the
pulley. If you have a auto like myself, I wouldn't
really recommend the UDP. Maybe after I dyno the car
and see the gains if any I might change my mind about
the pulley, right now I running 176FWHP from a auto.
The reason I would not recommend the UDP if you have a
auto because you're removing your OEM harmonic
balancer to install the UDP and doing this causing the
engine not to idle as smooth as before when it's in
gear. Once in park or neutral it idles as smooth as
before."
10-09-2000, 08:29 PM
#14
The UDP only helps you "gain" horsepower when you're using accessories.. it makes the alternator, power steering pump, and A/C compressor turn slower, thus not requiring as much power to turn them.. therefore, you gain a little more power to the wheels.
the drawback is your alternator has lower output, your A/C won't blow as cold during the summer, and power steering differences are negligible.
For the VG engine, kaleb is working on a lightened crank pulley... this is TOTALLY different from a UDP.. the lightned crank pulley is simply an aluminum version of the rubber/steel one that we have on our cars now.. it's several pounds lighter.. you won't see much of a difference on dyno charts, but you will see a difference in throttle response and engine revs.. it'll rev much quicker..
The VG/VE engines are already extremely well balanced from the factory.. the Main crank pulley does not have an "OEM harmonic balancer" on it.. the rubber is simply there as a weight savings and it does help to slightly lower vibrations.. changing it out with an all-aluminum pulley will cause you only very slightly increased vibrations, if any. and that's only at idle.. above 700rpm, you will feel zero difference in engine smoothness.
the drawback is your alternator has lower output, your A/C won't blow as cold during the summer, and power steering differences are negligible.
For the VG engine, kaleb is working on a lightened crank pulley... this is TOTALLY different from a UDP.. the lightned crank pulley is simply an aluminum version of the rubber/steel one that we have on our cars now.. it's several pounds lighter.. you won't see much of a difference on dyno charts, but you will see a difference in throttle response and engine revs.. it'll rev much quicker..
The VG/VE engines are already extremely well balanced from the factory.. the Main crank pulley does not have an "OEM harmonic balancer" on it.. the rubber is simply there as a weight savings and it does help to slightly lower vibrations.. changing it out with an all-aluminum pulley will cause you only very slightly increased vibrations, if any. and that's only at idle.. above 700rpm, you will feel zero difference in engine smoothness.
10-09-2000, 10:08 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 648
So when is Kaleb planning to have his pulley constructed by? I am definitely interested in buying one if he can get it fabricated. Maybe we could get a group deal on them if they are effective enough on performance.
92GXE, touring wing, 18” racing wheels, Port&Polished intake, custom intake, custom yellow interior, racing seats, back seats taken out and replaced with subs and amps, NOS kit, Suspension tech. Lowering springs, custom grille, soon to be custom painted and have the whole engine rebuilt for big shot NOS and custom SC and tranny converted to 5-speed.
92GXE, touring wing, 18” racing wheels, Port&Polished intake, custom intake, custom yellow interior, racing seats, back seats taken out and replaced with subs and amps, NOS kit, Suspension tech. Lowering springs, custom grille, soon to be custom painted and have the whole engine rebuilt for big shot NOS and custom SC and tranny converted to 5-speed.
10-10-2000, 07:03 AM
#16
I haven't heard anything in a couple months.. last time I heard anything, the company making them was still working on a prototype.
There will definitely be a group deal if/whenever these things get done. or at least an attempt on a group deal will be made.
There will definitely be a group deal if/whenever these things get done. or at least an attempt on a group deal will be made.
10-10-2000, 08:17 AM
#17
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Thanks fellas for the info. I will attempt to see if the pulley can be tightened and whether or not that wil stop the wobbling. If it does, I'll try to hold out until Kaleb gets the prototype ready for usage. If not, I guess I'll check the junkyards or Courtesy for a replacement.
Two final questions (for now)... 1)Would the wobbly pulley cause excessive vibrations at speeds of 75+? It seems that when I get to those speeds, I notice the vibrations more. At idle I can just visually see the pulley out of sync slightly. 2)Also, what causes the pulleys to start to wobble?
Two final questions (for now)... 1)Would the wobbly pulley cause excessive vibrations at speeds of 75+? It seems that when I get to those speeds, I notice the vibrations more. At idle I can just visually see the pulley out of sync slightly. 2)Also, what causes the pulleys to start to wobble?
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