Well, I just did another fill up at the gas pump.....I got 11mpg.......I maybe floored it once or twice, other than that i drove normal and at speed limit.
When i noticed the gas mielage drop, it was after I put some chevron techron fuel system cleaner, and a bottle of Isoheat(moisture remover).
If I had 1 leaking injector, but it ohm'd out ok. How could I check?
My emmissions test said I was putting out 300ppm HC at idle and the highest legal limit is 220 here. Would a leaking injector be the cause of high HC??

 

yes it can.



http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...8&postcount=15

 

is your check engine light on? mine came on when one of my injectors went.

 

no CEL....
I have an extra fuel rail with 6 injectors in it...they look ok, have 4 small pin holes on the screen, all seem ok. how can I, myself, with no expensive equipment, clean these, if i decide to put that fuel rail on my car...and how hard is it to swap fuel rails? and what about if I decided to change the front 3 injectors?

To get the injectors off you need a screwdriver....I tried getting one injector out of the extra fuel rail...and man that **** is tight.

 

there is no way to clean the injectors off the car without specialized machines.
you can run all sorts of **** through them even on the car and none of them will get even close to the cleaning that the specialized machines do.
that being said, you can't visually tell if an injector is good or not, that is done with the same machine that cleans them. it sprays into a clear cylinder that allows you to see the actual spray pattern as well as the amount that is coming out.
if you can afford it (which you can because with the cost of gas being what it is, the increased effeciency will pay for itself fairly quickly) put in new ones, then you've got no worries for another 100k+
also the CEL does not come on for a bad injector, or two, or three

 

where can i find NEW injectors for ve? you sellin them yet?

 

ah i found it, $600 smackaroos for 6 brand new injectors, eeek
I think I'll try out this spare fuel rail if my "test" with KS resistor and this tank of gas don't make a difference. just filled up w/ supreme chevron w/tech....I usually get shell Vpower...

 

Honestly you shouldn't be using a ks bypass, you max needs new parts, you'll end up ruining your engine. To pull the injectors I used a vice, with the jagged jaws gently squeezing the plastic. then rotate the rail to free up the o-ring, and pull. To install just do the opposite (make sure you clean all the residue off the fuel rail seats otherwise it will cut the new orings. You can clean the filter screens by using a soft paint brush and submerging it in alcohol (but dont use acetone or toluene).

You can try cleaning and reseating all the injectors, since you might just have a leaking o-ring (as long as they are all within ohm spec. There is a complete injector 'tune up' kit that comes with all the orings and gaskets made by beck/arnley.

 

Plus I'd pull the plugs to try to find the specific one(s) that are leaky and just clean those. If you get lucky, it's one of the front ones

 

what do i look for on the plug?

 

Well black wet gassly like! Basicly different than the others that should be light gray/dry

 

whats sorta of orangish, mixed with some brown...almost an orange tan

 

are you refering to your connector or the spark plug tip?

 

the connector??? what connector? was referring to the spark plug tip...im going to pull them again today if this rain stops, to check all the coil packs and clean them, now that i know how to take them apart.

a week ago i took all the plugs out, and none of them looked black, or glossy. they looked brown/orange....BUT I smelled them all and they all seemed to have a slight fuel smell to them, is that normal?

 

How did they taste?? You should probably pull them again.

 

very dry


I have had great luck with using a set of channel locks and just pulling.

 

so what are the 2 screws for?

 

Well they don't come out easy, the screws aren't the only thing holding them in. When removing the screws you might want to use an 'S' or 'L' shaped phillips driver. I had to replace a couple screws since they rounded over a bit (WD40 might help).

 

I put a needle nose vice grip to them and gently cracked them loose first. You put marks in the sides of the screws but that's 10x better than stripping them first.

Of course the fuel was on my work bench so all the screws are easy to get at.

 

tapping a screw driver with a hammer while turning usually loosens them up too , the screws that is