Hey Guys,
So unfortunately my car just started to leak antifreez the other day. Its leaking pretty fast and my shop and I have come to a consensus that its the water pump. Is this pretty common for you 3rd gens? The car has 158,000 miles on it. The cost of the water pump isn't bad, like 50$. But the shop won't do it, just because the job is supposedly such a pain in the butt. I was kinda surprised. Have any of you changed one out before or have any advice? Either way it looks like the labor isn't going to be cheap nor easy. Any thoughts? Thanks
-Ryan

 

this Is pretty common for waterpumps with 158,000 miles on it. Some change them in advance during belt change.

But the shop won't do it... --->wrong shop, even the consensus is questionable... But dont drive engine hot until u get it repaired.

 

So this isn't something one could do themselves (with help). I figured that wouldn't be an option but thought i'd ask around and see what you guys have done. Thanks for the input so far Wiking.
-Ryan

 

You could do it at home if you were mechanically inclined. Let me know if you want the instructions from the FSM.

 

the shop doesn't want to do it because they also would have to do the t-belt, t-belt tensioner, oil seals, hoses, etc etc.

on the VG you really just can't swap WP and be done with it. usually when the t-belt is done the WP is done also...but if that WP is 158K and so is the t-belt then you're on extreme borrowed time.

 

of course one could do it themselves. it's a little time consuming and annoying at times but if you have a decent tool collection, dig in.

 

I would let you use my car as a chinese blue print... but you're on the otherside of the state Ryan.

I have a decent tool collection, it's just finding time (and money right now) to drive over and help.

 

DIY starts from day1, that happened for everyone who now can fixit. Maybe this is your day1.?

As said, buy pump, belt tensioner and belt, crank seal. Find the info and take all out, replace pump. If this is your first mechanical job, then at this stage its good to bribe kcidmil to come over... But if u have repaired engines, belt replacement is just work, somewhat demanding. First timers should prepare for 10hour tinkering.

I think the crap chilton manual explains this: www.autozone.com

Crank bolt & flywheel is 'somewhat' tight, better to have pneumatic tools and puller or some other trick in pocket. Belt tightening info in the manual is confuzean, dont follow it, read just the conclusion =checkup =20lb down force between cam sprockets bends belt ½inch. Just make sure the belt is aligned (triplecheck) and rotate manually the engine few rev before cranking it (ign pwr off).

 

Thanks for all the help guys. I recieved some quotes around here from 350-400. But i guess what has to be done has to be done.

I won't make KCmill come over and do it .

I did not realize how much was involved in swapping it out. But i don't think i'm up to the task. I'll get it taken care of and get it back up for sale. Thanks guys for the help!

-Ryan

 

You really should replace the timing belt, tensioner, tensioner spring, thermostat, camshaft oil seals, and front main seal at the same time. The labor required to fix any of these parts is basically the same as doing the water pump itself. The parts costs are insignificant compared to the labor. If the timing has never been changed, now is DEFINITELY the time before it breaks and send your motor off to heaven.

 

Thanks Pervis. I'll definately ask them if they could do all of this while they had to do the Water Pump. It would make sense and would save some problems in the long run. I'm not sure if the timing has been changed before or not, but it coudlnt' hurt. I'll check it out, thanks for the help.
-Ryan

 

No problem. FYI, what I just described is called the 60k mile maintenance.

 

Humm..this might have been done already if its a 60K maintance check. I'll have to look back at the records. But i doubt it since we got the car from my grandma at 110K and she really didn't do anything on it but change the oil since she bought it new.

 

Its good if u have the records, limits costs. Belt change period: 5yrs -or- the mentioned 60k.

Generally its good to swap all possible. But this may also backfire: have had new thermostat jam (swapped the ol back), alt blow (was changed just to make sure) etcetc...

Btw, anathema maranatha: no need for engines in heaven, luckily all will melt in hell...

 

haha

 

he has an se, dohc, so he should have a timing chain not a belt right? anyway, i changed mine last week and it was rough. the pump i had was ever so slightly larger than the stock one and would not go in. i had to break off a half inch section of the engine flange, the lip that is where the lower and upper half of the cast aluminum meet. it is really a tight fit. a pump from the dealership would be advised.

 

Nope... 91 had the VG motors.

Thanks, I have enough stuff to do with my Max as it is. Let alone, drive across the god forsaken state and work on yours...

 

That probably wasn't your best option.

 

i know it sounds bad but it really wasn't. the problem was it was an aftermarket pump. i had removed everything i could including the timing pointer pin. i got desparate...

 

While the engine is torn down to repl. the pump, belt,cam seals, etc. also look for the (rear) cyl. head water jacket plug. Unscrew it from the head and seal the threads with teflon tape or even silicone sealer. These plugs are prone to leaking coolant.