What does this do?

it helps control when the tranny shifts.

it allows you to pimp

how bout does anyone sell those bulbs for the thing? or should i hit up the dealer?

a. physiotherapy:
It hlps in the stress of weaning from manual tranny, bicycle clutch leg cramps... play with it and find out how stick cramped wrist gets massage....

b. enhances murmur and rubberburn play

c. regulates electron flow to line pressure valve [ie. affects hydraulics pressure]



The transmission mode switch (at right). Two mode indicator lamps P & C are used also for selfdiagnostics. Note: Located under Air Filter box, screwed to the chassis, is a drop down resistor for line pressure hydraulics valve. It is selected via TCU with this switch. With the resistor, the valve is choked, and this raises/lowers hydraulics pressure, thereby enhancing the upshift rpm level. If problems, measure resistor, wirings, connections.
see: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/15

warming seat ??? thanks to europe , i never saw that option here :P

I want heated seats.

U want also 5$ gallon gas, 90% tax? Wellcome to natl socialissimus EU... Hey I'd rather skip seat heaters and lamp wipers...

One option:
Buy Volvo. Then u get also steering wheel heater... [necessary in tractors]

...still waiting for smbdy donating the clear blink covers...

is it a common problem with this feature to smell burnt tranny fluid after prolonged use?

no lol ...


and for the first question , your Owner manual describ it all .

They are just LEDs. When my "Power" LED went out, I just bought one from Radio Shack and put it in. 10 minutes (as main trim piece has to be removed and re-installed).

Power setting shifts gears at high RPMs, Comfort at low. In the mid position, it will stay in Comfort unless TPS detects a sudden pressure on the throttle, in which case it will move into Power (and downshift depending on speed) until you ease off on gas. Try it. Power light will come on and go out when you stop driving like a maniac (!).

But we have the little lever to blow cool air oin your face, he doesn't.

Ill try that out. I know my 93 Impreza has the power light when you floor the pedal which is probably the same thing but it doesnt have a switch.

no, they are not LEDs, they are standard bulbs

you can replace them with Radio Shack part 272-1092 12v minilamp

There is one bulb for each setting and also one in the middle that lights up the "A/T" portion that is rare to still have working.

and you DO NOT have to remove the entire trim piece to get to this switch. Just a putty knife will pop it out of the hole in the trim piece. Then you unclip the harness in the back, and you have a benchtop bulb project in about 30 seconds.

Yeah, my A/T light went out while I was putting my stereo in, but I didn't bother replacing it. Yeah, I kept my base and replace the bulb (thought it was LED), instead of buying it at the dealership.

whoa, i didn't even know the A/T portion lights up

looks like i got a little weekend project to do now

lol! Mine went out within my first week of ownership so I had to think long and hard about whether I remembered it ever being lit up. Realized that I did, and pinned it on the stereo install as that's what knocked out my Power light too.

What we need are 5spd swaps.

is there suppose to be any type of performance increase from either?

Did you read the whole thread, my friend?

yeah man, and its mostly about changing the bulbs for it. nothing about performance, only you explained earlier on how it works. but what about performance? will it accelerate faster in comfort if it shifts earlier, or faster if it shifts later in power?

no there is no performance increase. All it does is change shift points. When you floor the gas, it switches to power shift mode anyways. Watch the P light sometime when you punch the gas quickly.

as for performance the tranny already compensates and shifts at higher rmps when you floor it so i thinks its impossible for anyone to say it definately gives performance gains. if this follows the trend of all the other threads about this topic someone will ask about whether the gas mileage will be helped or hurt i will just say leave it on auto for normal driving because other wise unless you are able to get your rpms up quickly(say from leaving a stoplight)you won't shift as soon and you will mostlikely just be wasting gas with it running at higher rpms for a longer period of time. just my 2 cents.

ha you beat me by a minute.

Too fast! But you're response was much better and more informative.

theres actually a pretty good write up on it at 4dsc, if u havnt seen it yet

Oh is THAT what that damn thing is..??? I tried to look it up since I couldn't understand what the hell it was for, but now I know. Thanks for that Wiking.

Btw, if that sensor is badly grounded or damaged, how would the tranny react? Is it just the shifting that gets affected or is it oil pressure and stuff as well..?

Check the resistor under the air filter, wires. I'd think that to be the last widget to fail...
Maybe smbdy knows better, but the crappy schemas indicate that ECU drives the hydraulic valve coil. Power goes there either direct, or through this resistor. The switch tells ECU which way... As we all know, resistors do resist. This is veery bad in ignition wires, and here it takes 'half' power off from the valve. Weakened hydraulics valve (If I understand this) causes pressure to bypass (=lower pressure) and earlierchange. (or is it vice versa?) ... anyways good only to those who are afraid of being picked by radar...

Btw. My swiss chees turbo includes pwr resistor cooling! Should I now add "PWRC" -letters into the trunk?

...see da beast lurKing under "cooler hole12-14":

Thanks Craig, i gotta go there anyway to get the capacitor for my dead clock. u da man

the lights on my A/T switch lights up when i turn on my head lights,

Alright... so if I interpret that correctly what you're saying is that is this resistor is damaged or malfunctioning this COULD be the reason why my damn tranny slips?

I mean, it slips, but lets just enough pressure through to move the car veeeeeery slowly.

I guess I've underestimated the importance of electronics... maybe that could be my problem, although I'm very sceptic. Especially since the car ran fine for a few days with the rebuilt tranny in. But who knows, people keep telling me the same thing about computers 'hey it worked yesterday' and still the piece of **** is broken down for some reason. Guess I'll read your writeup on TCU and all that Wiking... damn... I'm terrible with electronics.

FYI: My clock was dead as well, and since I did not feel like changing the capacitor this time around, I cleaned it with rubbing alcohol and scraped alot of the soldered points (As indicated on Craigs page). There were a few "yellow" crystallized spots that I scraped off as well. After putting it back in, It has always worked since !!!

Just a note to let you(and others) know.

- Jim

Your problem sounds mech failure related to last tranny operation. Operation successful, patient died....

On one sw position the resistor is not used, clearly then resistor condition does not matter. Another, current to the valve coil goes through it. R affects shift point relative to rpm.

There are few other solenoid valves controlling the bands. If they are weak, slipping occurs. One reason for solenoid weakness is low voltage.

Another mechanical slip issue is the valve upgrade set, have u installed that?

Start from batt voltage, then TCU, then measure the voltage at the tranny connector.

Yeah, thanks to your brilliant guides on cardomain with all the schematics (where do you get it all from..??) my dad has agreed to help me oscilliscope the whole car, so to speak. He's devilish with electronics so as long as he knows what the curves should look like he can measure like everything...

And no, haven't installed the valve upgrade kit. I've been looking for it but haven't found a good place to purchase one though... maybe I'd have to speak to internetautomart about that. We'll see, I won't do it now anyway. I wanna wait until I have my vacation so I'll have lots of time. I'll probably order a new master kit and this upgrade to go with it.

One question though;

When the tranny last started grinding and slipping we discovered that the oil pump had destroyed to shell. So we swapped the broken half of the shell with the second tranny that I have. So now I have 2 halfs put into one trans. Would that be a problem or is that alright?

Its all secret inner circle info: I'm excavating my max with olympus, all hieroglyphs are from tHere with tHe help of manuals.

Upd kit Info sits tHere: "a. Some say this service pack helps in the valves; serviceable without taking of the tranny, about 50$ ---> Service pack for RE4F04A auto tranny: www.txchange.com "

Tranny Q&A Sorry, youre now the guru, u tell me... I'd be looking for another hunni tranny.

The switch turns on the stock NOS.
Hold on when you put it into power you might loose your shorts.

what are you talking about!? the NOS only came stock for the 89-91 SE.. for the 92-94's, they kept it turbo for the "P" and supercharger on "C".. they put the NOS on as an option and it is activated when you put the AC on to max, push the recurcilating button, push and hold O/D off, and you get a nice wet shot of n2o

really?

sure