VEvolution

I just seen one of my dream cars for sale while driving around the neighborhood. In mint condition, proudly stands a 93' VE, black on black, leather, fully loaded(also CD player. don't think they came with it) Very good condition, with... Only 71,000 miles The car basically shines as if it just rolled out of the dealership. Get this.. 2000 bucks. Unfortunatly, no 5-spd But, I see so many people around here throwin on sticks left and right, it's not such a big concern for me right now with a deal this good. Especially in my area, you don't see these cars in normal looking condition everyday, thats also a big reason on why I don't wanna pass this up.

1)Im new to this whole buying a car thing(only bought one car in my life so far)Now, my question is to you VE guys... Is there anyway I can possibly drop the price? Im not in the best financial situation right now to be buying a new car but, come on.. It's a cheap low mileage VE(fully loaded). Definatly a must have for a 3rd gen enthusiast, you know what Im talkin about Also my poor GXE(119K) is basically falling apart. So what could I possibly use to lower the price other then your standard bargaining skills? Potential VTC failure maybe? I havn't actually heard it run, but would be sad if it caught the VTC bug already. Could be the reason why its priced that way. The guy did say over the phone it runs great, but he coulda grounded those suckers too thinking hes slick, yeah? What Im really tryin to do is, Im thinkin about putting together a nice little strat, using the knowledge I gain from here to get the guy at every turn on why the car should be priced cheaper, and get the possible best value I can, if this 2k isn't already low enough.

2)Also, Is there anything else to look out for when purchasing a VE? The first best thing to do would probably be running a Carfax, right? Im not gonna deny that the guy most likely rolled it back a few here and there, but is there a way to check if the engine is in good running condition right off the bat?

So anyway, I've been dreamin of owning this type of car for awhile now, and would be highly pleased to. I would really appreciate any seriose feedback. Thanks alot guys.

P.S. - Hopefully, I can snap some shots of it tommorrow.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

I'd keep the car in you sig. But drive the car 1st. Report back.

VEvolution

Sorry Jeff, but somebody took a picture of it and altered it using photoshop so it just looks stock now

Pervis Anathema

iTrader: (8)

IMO, $2k for a VE w/ 71k miles is a very good deal, especially considering the shape you report the rest of the car to be in. If he messed with the odometer, you will be able to tell. The numbers will be crooked and won't perfectly line up with each other.

You should be able to tell if the VTCs have been grounded. Check Craig Brace's page for instructions and then just look at his to see.

5spds in great shape are HARD to find. This auto might the best you can do. You could always do a 5spd and VI swap later.

tripleGmax

iTrader: (8)

sell your car buy that black one.

Mizeree_X

iTrader: (9)

http://boston.craigslist.com/car/81556335.html

http://boston.craigslist.com/car/82629655.html

http://boston.craigslist.com/car/81453175.html (the ever elusive blue on black leather)

Cliff Clavin

iTrader: (11)

$2k is a very good deal for a VE with under 100k miles, although the ones Mizeree pointed out are also quite nice.

I thought I got a pretty good deal for mine at $2500 when I bought it 2 years ago and it had 148k on it.

Probably the best thing for you is VEs and VGs are pretty similar in resale value at this point. Most potential buyers don't even know the difference.

If you clean up your car and sell it, you should be able to get more than $2k for it, especially since you have low miles (119k according to your post). I would think you can get closer to $3k.

If you want to upgrade to a VE 5-speed, buy one. Swapping in a tranny is going to cost you close to another thousand dollars in parts (unless you are really lucky and score a cheap tranny), not to mention the hours of labor.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

I didn't feel like typing all this out.

Minty91GXE

iTrader: (3)

beware of NYC cars!

VEvolution

Well, this is pretty nice. While I was doing all this research on getting the best value for this damn car, I discovered that it was sold.

Thats f****en great. The guy even tried to offer me a GXE after. Man, Im pissed. I had no clue somebody can sell a car that fast. With a deal like that, Im not surprised.



Anyway, gotta keep a positive attitude about this and hope to find such a great deal again, cause those links Mizeree posted(even tho cars are beautiful) that 140K+ deal ain't really doin it for me. And they were not in my area, unlike this low mileage clean one.

Thanks alot guys. Really appreciate it. If anything else comes up, I'll bring this thread back.

bmw88rider

iTrader: (1)

Got to move quick on the good deals. They move fast. I almost sold my 94 SE 5 speed for $1800 with only 95K miles but I decided to fix the problems and kept it instead.

MrGone

iTrader: (30)

m-fin dibs!!!!!1111oneoenone!1

Pervis Anathema

iTrader: (8)

Holy crap, I would have bought that in a heartbeat and added it to my collection.

In other news, MrGone is frantically pwing to hit the elusive 10k....

MrGone

iTrader: (30)

VEvolution

1992 Nissan Maxima SE
$2,995
5 Speed Manual
136,267 Miles

It also has a CD player with a Sunroof



What do you guys think? The car is being sold by a private dealer and the guy says the car looks great and runs great. I think for 136k the price is a bit steep, since there was another dealer around here selling a better looking VE with 71k for only 2k. What can I use to lower the price? Where can I get official proof of the VTC issue/rust issue to pop out with while Im there? The location of the car is very far from me and it's not easy for me to get there, so Im trying to keep trips to a minimum. I don't have too much time to think about this since it probably won't be there for long, and I don't wanna lose this like last time. The timing belt recently snapped on my VG, so time is of the essence. I'll appreciate any advice.

tripleGmax

iTrader: (8)

well u could use vtc issue to lower price. pull the backseat and check for rust....tell him you did research on the car and that you know of its only recall. dont be like "omg i want this car bad!!!" to the guy, hell only think he doesnt have to go down on the price.

as far as getting there and all that, youll have to figure that into your final cost some how.....why not just swap in a new motor in the VG?

VEvolution

The VTC issue isn't a recall is it? How low do you think I could go on a car like this anyway? About 2k maybe? I doubt he will drop it that low, unless there is a massive hole in the backseat, but then I obviosly wouldn't want it anymore. If all else fails which I think it will, Im just gonna tell him, 2500.. Take it or leave it.

As for the swap, did you mean swapping in another VG? I really can't stand that engine. It's just too slow for me. Reliable but slow. And to get a VE in my current car would be way too much headache. Plus I want a 5spd which I would need to swap in as well. After all that work, the body still looks like crap from all those accidents while I was learning how to drive.

tripleGmax

iTrader: (8)

yeah i meant another VG.

as far as price, hell start at 2k tell him you saw a max same pretty much but lower miles and it was 2k then if/when he says too low ask to work something out between 2-3k. just do what you gotta do, but drive the darn thing first and make sure it checks out ok.

good luck.

VEvolution

Thanks man, I'll need it. I should be able to go check it out this week. Hopefully it will still be there. Im just gonna tell him 2k and work my way up from there if I have to.

Now... Time to go learn how to drive stick

camron21

Man you was about to be got if you would have sold that for $1800!!!

camron21

lol... Shoot, start at $1900

VEvolution

Hey, I'll be full of joy for him to give it to me for a thousand bucks less. I don't really wanna push it.

Alex_V

Well tell him about the ve with 71K miles. That should make him work with you.

~Alex

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

or just **** him off.
whenever someone trys that crap with me, I normally say that it's an unfair comparison.
you can't compare 2 used cars fairly because the maintenance is different and who knows what needed to be replaced on the 71k one (maybe all the suspension dry rotted)
just my .02

VEvolution

Then what would you recommend doing while trying to lower the price not to **** him off. Thats the .02 I would love to hear.

Cliff Clavin

iTrader: (11)

You don't have much of a choice when buying something you want.

After you look over the car, find some things that might need to be fixed. Act kind of picky. When you get done, ask him how negotiable he is on the price. If he says he might go down some, point out the things you think might need to be done.

Some people won't negotiate or will only go down a little bit, especially when they first put something up for sale. When that is the case, make your best offer and tell the guy you are willing to pay that amount IN CASH. If he doesn't sell it, your offer stands and you might be willing to negotiate that price later. Give him your phone number and hope that no one pays full price. Then, he might call you and start the bidding process a little lower.

Lowballing people is usually a mistake unless 1) you know the seller 2) you know the seller is desperate or 3) the start price is obviously way too high. If the price is in the "reasonable" range, most sellers know that someone will come along that wants it bad enough to pay somewhere close to the asking price.

VEvolution

Thanks for the info. But don't you think the price IS a bit steep?

Cliff Clavin

iTrader: (11)

I think the price is a bit steep.

You didn't specify all of the options on the car you were looking at -- KBB private party value for NYC is just under $2500 if the car is in excellent condition with leather and ABS. With no leather it is like $2400. Good condition is like $2000.

I don't think I would buy it for more than $2500 and your goal of $2000 seems reasonable to me. It would also have to be rust free and well maintained. It looks decent in the photo, but can't tell for sure. I would have to hear it run.

Your biggest problem is you need a car now and you don't really have a few months to wait around for another VE 5-speed, if that is really what you want to buy. They are out there, but nice ones don't pop up in a specific area that often. Sometimes you get lucky and cars just fall in your lap. Other times, you really have to search for them.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

just as a point of reference.
when I bought my integra I went over it very carefully, just pointing out the good and the bad parts. not mentioning price at all (it was only a $500 car).
the seller ended up, without me negotiating at all, saying give me $250 for it.
of course I said sold .
sometimes silence is the best negotiating tool.
just let them think you're thinking it over, weighing the pros and cons of the car.
the seller will probably come down some himself.

Alex_V

Thats what I did on the VG5speed I just bought. I just looked at it over compeltely and checked the fluids under the hood and kinda frowned a little, and stared at the insanely dirty interior. And only haggled a little and he came down from 700 to $450.

~Alex

VEvolution

Just bought it. 5-spd as well. I can't say Im too happy though. Yes, it looks like a beauty from the inside out.. But once I started it, Im sure you guys know what I heard. The dealer was actually tryin to play it off as if this is the first time he heard it So basically from $2,995, the best I could do was $2,200.. I told him about the VTC's and how it's expensive to repair and shi*, but his partner was being a tough guy, and saying he doesn't care. Given me the "This price is reasonable for this car, and I need to make something off it" crap. Thats pretty close to what I was looking to pay regardless, but I wasn't expecting the clacking. Not yet anyway. What are my options? Am I the biggest fool in history for getting it? It just looks really good on the outside. No scratches or anything. Clean CarFax history. One owner, highway miles, etc. 136K in all. 10,000 miles a year average was put on it. Looks very well cared for. It has no leather, but the interior is beautiful and he has a CD changer in the trunk. Also a sunroof. AC, ABS, etc. I also popped the rear seat to check for rust.. I don't know.. Im no expert, but I didn't see anything out of the ordinary. So what do you guys think? Did I get ripped off, or what? And am I loosing power even after the VTC clacking goes away when she warms up? How much?

P.S.- I'll have pics up as soon as I get her home.

Edit: I almost forgot.. We didn't do any paperwork yet, so I can still back out of this. If something feels off from what I explained about the car, let me know please! Thanks alot.

Alex_V

From what Ive read about VTC's you probably are fine for a while, as clicking only when warm is a pretty early sign, failure is pretty far off, it shouldn't be loosing any power.

Id say you got a good deal. For the rust, pop the trunk and give the drivers side a good yank, if it falls off, it needs the recall, if it doesnt and your curious, just take off the cover and check it out. Id say as long as the fluids are fine, its not missing and it runs good I would take it and do the manitence it needs. I wish I had a VE, but only for now as Im going turbo later!

~Alex

Cliff Clavin

iTrader: (11)

It sounds like a pretty fair deal. If the interior and exterior are solid and it seems to run and drive good, sounds very reasonable to me.

$2200 for a clean car with some VTC tick is pretty good.

I paid $2500 for mine and it had 148k, VTC tick and needed a new clutch pedal assembly ($50 at a junkyard). My car is very clean and I liked that about it. A lot of guys on this site have ticking VTCs and I can only recall two that actually had an engine malfunction because of this. Change the oil religously and use the Toyota filter and you should help prolong the life of the VTCs several years, at least.

kiyakerz

iTrader: (7)

I WANT PICTURES!!!! and LOTS of them

VEvolution

On the way, on the way

VEvolution

Im still having problems getting the car home since it's in another state and I just had my first experience with a manual tranny the other day. I can't get it off the line without that tormented newbie shutter, cause I don't depress the clutch slow enough. I also don't really know the set time to change gears. I just upshift or downshift when it really isn't nessacery. Not as easy as I thought. So Im a bit scared that I will ruin the clutch or tranny, or something like that. I was smellin something burnt, after I finished practicing. I knew that wasn't good. The car also started to feel uneasy, as if it wasn't happy with my driving. So I just parked it, and left like I did yesterday. Anybody got any hints on learning to drive a stick? I just don't wanna mess anything up, which I feel Im doing right now. Basically, I just wanna know if these trannies can take a bit of a beating while I learn, cause I never really had the oppurtunity to learn or had anyone around me who knows how to drive a stick. I just don't wanna have to replace that clutch after I just bought the car, ya know.

Mizeree_X

iTrader: (9)

Bring a friend who can drive stick and have them drive it home. That's what I did when I bought my 5-speed. Although I already knew how to drive a stick decently, I didn't feel comfortable taking it on the interstate and through a bunch of crazy Massachusetts intersections. Bribe the friend with a free lunch if necessary.

Alex_V

Ive been driving stick since just before the end of school I picked it up easy but I love this kinda stuff.

To get moving, rev the engine a little, like 1000-1500rpm or up to like 2200. Slowly relese the clutch to get the car moving. Best MPG shift soon, at like 4500 rpm. I usually just shift when ever the power drops off as I drive many diffrent cars.

Down shift when you know the mph your going isnt higher then the red line is. Also when doing that make sure you press the gas a little to bring the rpms up, so the clutch doesnt drag the engine up to speed. When to down shift is a learning process really. After about 3-4weeks of driving I got it down, but Id say down shift when you get around 1000-2500rpm and still need to slow down more. But Im not an expert.

Also you really dont need to down shift to slow down. When stopping I put it in neutral and left in the clutch and just use the brakes. It helps MPG and clutch and tranny life. Personaly I rarely down shift as your usually stoping. But like going to a passing gear on the highway press clutch, rev engine a little while shifting and let out the clutch.

Can you describe the smell? Rubber? oil? Something else? It might not be the clutch, Id check all the fluids and if you have already compare levels.

~Alex

VEvolution

Yeah, same here. My friend kept tellin me to just go for it, and get it home, but I knew I would really mess something up, or get lost. One or the other. I have a few people who can help me out, but not as soon as I would like. Just not too comfortable about the neighborhood I parked it at. Thx

Hm, I see.. Thanks. But proper downshifting is a bit too extreme for my level right now. I just smack it in neautral, brake, hold the clutch and be done with it. I hope thats okay to do. While Im learning in the next few weeks, what would you recommend is the biggest "NO NO" to do that would really hurt my tranny in the long run, or even hurt it now? Riding the clutch? Not shifting properly, or taking off incorrectly? Having it constantly stall out? Etc?

As for the fluid smell, I can't really put my finger on it, but it smelled like some type of burnt oil. I think there was a bit of smoke coming from under the hood. Or maybe my imagination, but something was smoking and it wasn't the muffler. Only smelled it after my beautiful 5spd techniques, not after the dealer test drove me. I actually do remember exactly the first time I smelled it. Was when I revved to like 4K and made her stall by accident

P.S.- Oh, and a last important question I keep tryin to figure out.. When upshifting, which way is safer.. As I clutch, I pick the gear, and right before I release the clutch, do I gas it a bit? Comes natural to me for some reason. Or should I just completely release the clutch and then gas after selecting the gear?

Alex_V

To slow down just put it in neutral, let go of clutch and push brakes. No need to hold the clutch too. Down shifting is easy when you at like 1-2K rpm and need to slow down just a little more just go one gear lower. But when stopping go to neutal.

Heres a list of things to dont do, let clutch out before geting all the way into gear- causes grinding, getting in to the habit of keeping your foot on or over the clutch, as you may start to ride it and then your clutch life is down the drain. Also...you dont need to rev over 4K to get rolling, 1500-2500 is egnough. Just ease off the clutch, to ease the shock of changing gears.

Couldnt tell you what burnt tranny oil or clutch is like. Haven't done that...yet....

When upshifting, 1-2 2-3 etc, get on gas only after clutch is engaged. To shift, clutch in (while moving of course) shift one gear up, clutch out, mash go pedal. If you rev before the clutch is relesed its just point less. 0Down shifting, clutch in, while shifting down a gear rev engine a little, but not too much, go into gear and let off clutch and go. Again down shifting is rarely needed.

Im finding its much more comfortable for everyone if I hold gas at current position, push clutch in, and let off gas slowly, then upshift. That gets rid of most of the jerk forward when lefting off the gas fast and pushing in the clutch fast. I do most of my driving alone so I dont notice this untill some one is in the car. What do you do 5 speed masters?

~Alex