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5 speed swap first problem...

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Old 07-12-2005 | 03:14 PM
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5 speed swap first problem...

So I've started the 5 speed swap, and this time I have a digital camera!

First a small presentation of my two max's (the left one beeing the parts car) here.
There are more pictures here.

The problem I have is with the clutch master cylinder. In the auto there are no hole in the cockpit wall, of course, and I don't know how to make one so it'll be the correct size and in the correct place since the space is like nada and inside the car there's all that wiring going very close to the place you're suppose to drill, how however it's done.

How did you guys solve that?
Old 07-12-2005 | 03:29 PM
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angle drill and a drill bit/hole saw

made a cardboard template from the parts car
Old 07-12-2005 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by subs1000w
angle drill and a drill bit/hole saw

made a cardboard template from the parts car
a template... yeah that's good, thanks for the idea
Old 07-12-2005 | 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by subs1000w
angle drill and a drill bit/hole saw

made a cardboard template from the parts car

haha me too
Old 07-12-2005 | 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by GRNMAXDMON
haha me too
Looks like it's the only way to go

I worry about getting the holes good enough though... it's a pretty tight spot to get anything close...

Btw, what do I do with the A/T control unit? Do I just disconnect it and leave it be or do I have to rewire some cables..?

And also, how did you guys do with the sensor to the clutch pedal? Is there a corresponding cable in the auto as well?
Old 07-12-2005 | 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Phatsta
Looks like it's the only way to go

I worry about getting the holes good enough though... it's a pretty tight spot to get anything close...

Btw, what do I do with the A/T control unit? Do I just disconnect it and leave it be or do I have to rewire some cables..?

And also, how did you guys do with the sensor to the clutch pedal? Is there a corresponding cable in the auto as well?

leave the A/T control unit alone. u don't need to tamper with that at all. and u don't need to do anything with the sensors for the clutch pedal. just do the rewire in the park/neutral safety switch harness from the 5-speed tranny to the auto tranny harness and ur done.
Old 07-12-2005 | 07:47 PM
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hey dude find out how much it would be to ship those corner lights over here. and i can hook up with something in return as well as some cash. pm me dude

edit: im not talkin drugs in case someone was thinkn that
Old 07-13-2005 | 12:27 AM
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Is that sparecar the Torneå -car? ...can I ask priset?
Old 07-13-2005 | 02:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Wiking
Is that sparecar the Torneå -car? ...can I ask priset?
Yes it is, priset was 7000SEK. A steal if you ask me

If you wanna have any spare parts or something off of it let me know and I'll give you a good price. (Unless I need it myself )
Old 07-13-2005 | 02:50 AM
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Originally Posted by GRNMAXDMON
leave the A/T control unit alone. u don't need to tamper with that at all. and u don't need to do anything with the sensors for the clutch pedal. just do the rewire in the park/neutral safety switch harness from the 5-speed tranny to the auto tranny harness and ur done.
Alright, let's see...

How exactly do I rewire it? I mean what should I wire them to..?
Old 07-13-2005 | 04:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Phatsta
Yes it is, priset was 7000SEK. A steal if you ask me

If you wanna have any spare parts or something off of it let me know and I'll give you a good price. (Unless I need it myself )
Torneå... NO? I say good price - is it runnin? Are there more such vehiculos...

lets see:
- hood for scoop
- MAF for mod
- Intakes fo mod
- small spare tire?

...= actually no need at the moment. But u never know if morrow brings sorrow, next week at spares seek...
Old 07-13-2005 | 03:05 PM
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Alright so I've come as far as taking out everything out of both cars, now remains the mounting of everything. A couple of questions though if someone would be kind enough to help me

1. The wiring of the park/neutral, what wire harness is that? Where is it located? (Only so I know I've understood this correctly)

2. The flywheel should be wrenched at a certain torque, right? What's that? Anything else that should be torque wrenched?

Thanks
Old 07-13-2005 | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Wiking
Torneå... NO? I say good price - is it runnin? Are there more such vehiculos...

lets see:
- hood for scoop
- MAF for mod
- Intakes fo mod
- small spare tire?

...= actually no need at the moment. But u never know if morrow brings sorrow, next week at spares seek...
Yeah Torneå, but I hired a friend of mine to bring it down by truck sp that was another 2000SEK. It was running, although 260k miles on the engine had brought it broken exhaust studs and a need of major tune-up. The manual trans was in perfect condition though, rebuilt only 60k miles ago. The clutch lamellas had about 3mm left as well so that should be fine for awhile. Good thing coz I need to really strangle my expenses...

Maybe there are more such cars, I don't know... look for yourself at www.blocket.se

I actually saw one for sale with unknown milage, a little modded in Kalmar I think it was for something like 5000SEK. You can't miss it.
Old 07-13-2005 | 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Phatsta
Alright so I've come as far as taking out everything out of both cars, now remains the mounting of everything. A couple of questions though if someone would be kind enough to help me

1. The wiring of the park/neutral, what wire harness is that? Where is it located? (Only so I know I've understood this correctly)

2. The flywheel should be wrenched at a certain torque, right? What's that? Anything else that should be torque wrenched?

Thanks

I personally never messed with the wiring. I just swapped the entire ecu harness. It's not that hard....and you dont have to rewire anything. If you want to go that route...just unplug the engine wires from the ecu....pull it out through the engine bay and unplug everything its connected to. As for the flywheel...the torque specifications are in a chiltons manuel....but i dont have it.....I just did it a couple weeks ago...but id hate to tell you the wrong info. sorry
Old 07-14-2005 | 03:10 AM
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Originally Posted by bobbydigital450
I personally never messed with the wiring. I just swapped the entire ecu harness. It's not that hard....and you dont have to rewire anything. If you want to go that route...just unplug the engine wires from the ecu....pull it out through the engine bay and unplug everything its connected to. As for the flywheel...the torque specifications are in a chiltons manuel....but i dont have it.....I just did it a couple weeks ago...but id hate to tell you the wrong info. sorry
Alright, thanks... I'll look it up!
Old 07-14-2005 | 05:13 PM
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Wiking, help! This is your area...

I'm done with the swap, all that remains is the rewiring of the park/neutral cables. But I can't do anything because firstly I don't even know what cables they are and second what do I do with them... do I just shortcut them or what..?

I want to do it the quickest way possible so I can test drive the car. I wanna know for sure if it really does work now... kinda hard to belive after all this mess. Maybe I'll swap the harness some day but rather not today...
Old 07-14-2005 | 05:16 PM
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dont rush the job!
Old 07-14-2005 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Phatsta
Alright so I've come as far as taking out everything out of both cars, now remains the mounting of everything. A couple of questions though if someone would be kind enough to help me

1. The wiring of the park/neutral, what wire harness is that? Where is it located? (Only so I know I've understood this correctly)

2. The flywheel should be wrenched at a certain torque, right? What's that? Anything else that should be torque wrenched?

Thanks
here u go <--- this thread will show u exactly what u need to do in order to do the re-wire so that ur car can start.
Old 07-15-2005 | 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by GRNMAXDMON
here u go <--- this thread will show u exactly what u need to do in order to do the re-wire so that ur car can start.
Thanks incredibly much man... you rock!
Old 07-15-2005 | 12:29 PM
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I will take a little credit for that, too! For any of you guys doing the swap and not getting into the electrical side of it, that just seems silly to me. When I was done with my swap, everything worked just as it would if it came from the factory - neutral switch, reverse lights, as well as both switches on the clutch. What's the point of doing a shade-tree job?!? For me, the satisfaction of doing this job (as well as the countless other things I did to build my cars) came from figuring it out myself, and doing it right. Also, for the sake of everyone on here that does know what they are doing - for god's sake, get a FSM BEFORE you attempt a big project. A whole lot of your questions can be answered by looking in the book. Just like the public service announcements used to say - Reading is fundamental! I'm not trying to be a d!ck, but go to the book first, and then ask questions if you get stuck.
Old 07-15-2005 | 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 90pearlSE
I will take a little credit for that, too! For any of you guys doing the swap and not getting into the electrical side of it, that just seems silly to me. When I was done with my swap, everything worked just as it would if it came from the factory - neutral switch, reverse lights, as well as both switches on the clutch. What's the point of doing a shade-tree job?!? For me, the satisfaction of doing this job (as well as the countless other things I did to build my cars) came from figuring it out myself, and doing it right. Also, for the sake of everyone on here that does know what they are doing - for god's sake, get a FSM BEFORE you attempt a big project. A whole lot of your questions can be answered by looking in the book. Just like the public service announcements used to say - Reading is fundamental! I'm not trying to be a d!ck, but go to the book first, and then ask questions if you get stuck.
Alright, you are right, but try to look at it this way:

1. I'm swedish so reading a FSM in technical english is a damn lifetime project since I have to look up like every third word or something. It's a lot more easy to combine understandable english and pictures.

2. Time was of the issue since I'm using a friends garage and he needs it by today so I need to be out of there.

3. I'm not doing this job just for the fun of it like you did. I really need my car to get to work, and I know in the U.S you have a lot better economy but ours is lousy so I can't afford getting another car and if I try to sell this max to get the money to buy another I'd lose around $3000 since I've taken a loan to buy it. So it's imperative that I get it up and running as soon as possible, preferrably to the lowest cost as possible.

That being said, I do enjoy working on the car. But I don't enjoy it as much when I have to as much as when I just want to. Maybe I'm a lazy and lame person in your eyes and for that I apologise, and if you don't want to answer any of my questions that's OK.

Thanks for your answer though, it was real helpful! It's running now anyways and I'll deal with the small things later, like electronics and stuff like that.
Old 07-15-2005 | 05:19 PM
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I guess one of the biggest problems with message boards is that there is no real way to interpret the tone of a reply. When I read back over my post, I saw how it could be interpreted as mean or whatnot - hence the disclaimer at the end. From past experience, 99% of the people that have attempted to swap an auto for a manual did not do so out of necessity - the manual transmission is harder to find and it requires a good bit of work to do the swap. I did not do the swap on my car for fun, or to be cool, or to try to make a race car or any of that. My first Max was a 5spd that I bought when I was in NY, and the more work I had to do on it, the more work it needed. It had gotten pretty eaten up with rust and I bought a parts car for $200 to replace some of the rotten parts on the undercarriage. When I got the parts car home and really got to look it over, I realized that it was in my best interest to strip out my car to rebuilt this one. The parts car was straight with good paint and rust-free, but had a bad auto tranny and the complete interior, lights, mirrors, switches, etc had been parted out. I had all of the parts necessary to rebuild this car, and in the end I would have a better car that would last much longer than the original.

I also had money tied up in the first car that I was not willing to lose by selling it, and wouldn't have enough to replace it after taking the loss. Asside from the new suspension and a handful of common replacement parts, all I needed to do was invest the time and work into building the new car. So that's what I did. Sure, I've spent more here and there for some goodies and other common 3rd gen issues, but in the end I have a much nicer car that will last me for several years to come (knock on wood).

My comments in the last post were not directed specifically to you, but in general. More times than not, it seems that a lot of people on the boards attempt to do things they can't quite tackle and ask questions that could easily be answered by a manual - and if you (general, again) are serious about keeping your car maintained, a FSM or *shudder* a Chilton or Haines manual is an essential tool. So do yourself (general) a favor and buy the book - it's probably the single best investment you can make for your car.
That is all.
Peace
Old 07-15-2005 | 05:36 PM
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isnt changing the spark plugs and oil every 900 miles a little excessive? (thats what your site says at the bottom of the first page)
Old 07-16-2005 | 01:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Phatsta

I'm swedish so reading a FSM in technical english is a damn lifetime project since I have to look up like every third word or something. It's a lot more easy to combine understandable english and pictures.
Hey, you and Wiking seem to be neighbors.. Maybe he can help you out
Old 07-16-2005 | 03:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 90pearlSE
I guess one of the biggest problems with message boards is that there is no real way to interpret the tone of a reply. When I read back over my post, I saw how it could be interpreted as mean or whatnot - hence the disclaimer at the end. From past experience, 99% of the people that have attempted to swap an auto for a manual did not do so out of necessity - the manual transmission is harder to find and it requires a good bit of work to do the swap. I did not do the swap on my car for fun, or to be cool, or to try to make a race car or any of that. My first Max was a 5spd that I bought when I was in NY, and the more work I had to do on it, the more work it needed. It had gotten pretty eaten up with rust and I bought a parts car for $200 to replace some of the rotten parts on the undercarriage. When I got the parts car home and really got to look it over, I realized that it was in my best interest to strip out my car to rebuilt this one. The parts car was straight with good paint and rust-free, but had a bad auto tranny and the complete interior, lights, mirrors, switches, etc had been parted out. I had all of the parts necessary to rebuild this car, and in the end I would have a better car that would last much longer than the original.

I also had money tied up in the first car that I was not willing to lose by selling it, and wouldn't have enough to replace it after taking the loss. Asside from the new suspension and a handful of common replacement parts, all I needed to do was invest the time and work into building the new car. So that's what I did. Sure, I've spent more here and there for some goodies and other common 3rd gen issues, but in the end I have a much nicer car that will last me for several years to come (knock on wood).

My comments in the last post were not directed specifically to you, but in general. More times than not, it seems that a lot of people on the boards attempt to do things they can't quite tackle and ask questions that could easily be answered by a manual - and if you (general, again) are serious about keeping your car maintained, a FSM or *shudder* a Chilton or Haines manual is an essential tool. So do yourself (general) a favor and buy the book - it's probably the single best investment you can make for your car.
That is all.
Peace
Yeah, you're right. Sorry if my post was a little grumpy yesterday, I was so tired and my body felt like it had been hit by a train due to 5 long and hard days in the garage. Didn't mean to be an a$$.

I do have the FSM and the Haynes manual and I've done repairs in the past all on my own thanks to those. And I'll continue doing that. But with some things that seem a bit more advanced, like electronics specifically, I'll rather hear it from someone who knows than to read out of a manual and hope I've understood it correctly then take a chance and if I screw up it's gonna be double as expensive. It's sort of a comfort to hear it from you guys.

I haven't really had the time to sit down and readu up on the electrical system, but I know it can't be that difficult so I am gonna try that one of these days.

Very thankful for all of you and your answers though, and I want you to know that.

/Daniel
Old 07-16-2005 | 03:16 AM
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Originally Posted by acidspit86
isnt changing the spark plugs and oil every 900 miles a little excessive? (thats what your site says at the bottom of the first page)
Oh yes it probably is. But since I'm very concerned that my car always will work I take safety measures out of this world to fulfill that. My reasoning is that it's better to spend $100 a month than $1000 twice a year.

And on top of that I really really love this car. My car is more worth to me than any woman would ever be so I think she deserves nothing but the best treatment. I'm still learning about her though, since I've only dealt with 'stupid' cars like old volvos and cars that has nothing but the basic mechanical stuff.

Originally Posted by Joe Fontinyatz
Hey, you and Wiking seem to be neighbors.. Maybe he can help you out
Hehe yeah... actually he lives in Finland but his sig says stockholm only because ppl tend to know stockholm better on the map. But he is very helpful though. He's one of the more tolerant, logical and knowledgeable persons I know of. He's great.
Old 07-16-2005 | 04:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Phatsta
Wiking, help! This is your area...

I'm done with the swap, all that remains is the rewiring of the park/neutral cables. But I can't do anything because firstly I don't even know what cables they are and second what do I do with them... do I just shortcut them or what..?

I want to do it the quickest way possible so I can test drive the car. I wanna know for sure if it really does work now... kinda hard to belive after all this mess. Maybe I'll swap the harness some day but rather not today...
Not reAlly my 'area'... Have solved my slippin A/T electroNics problem.

If u ask a specific q that I can trace from schema, I can give an opinion. Dunno how much value there would bee... Without deeper look, I would guess that taking the manual ECU and tying any loose signal wire to ground via 10k resistor would be ok. BUT. tHere are ppl who have done tHat stupid AT to man swap....

Note: Its not rude, but wisdom, not to display name, addr, reg plate, vin, installed stereos/goodies info in the net. If u do, expect not to see u car some rainy morning... There is a way for personal contact when that is needed. My neigbor; been in Gustavsvik while i Kumla jobbet. Current location is a semi secret...
Old 07-16-2005 | 04:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Wiking
Not reAlly my 'area'... Have solved my slippin A/T electroNics problem.

If u ask a specific q that I can trace from schema, I can give an opinion. Dunno how much value there would bee... Without deeper look, I would guess that taking the manual ECU and tying any loose signal wire to ground via 10k resistor would be ok. BUT. tHere are ppl who have done tHat stupid AT to man swap....

Note: Its not rude, but wisdom, not to display name, addr, reg plate, vin, installed stereos/goodies info in the net. If u do, expect not to see u car some rainy morning... There is a way for personal contact when that is needed. My neigbor; been in Gustavsvik while i Kumla jobbet. Current location is a semi secret...
Oh I only thought you'd know because of your very detailed info on your site, but of course that was just wishful thinking from my side no problem though, the car works now so everythings fine!

Don't worry, I won't tell them where you live, coz I don't even know

As for me I don't worry as much about name, adress and stuff like that. I've been putting out my details on the net for over 10 years and nothing related to that ever happened to me. The one who'd dare try would try no more coz he'd be in jail before he'd had a chance to blink. One good thing of living in this apartment house is that I have two jail guards as neighbours

Gustavsvik is like 5km from where I am now, that's cool! And in Kumla my parents live, so theoretically we could have met without knowing it. Let me know if you're coming over again and I'll invite you over for a coffee!
Old 07-16-2005 | 05:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Phatsta
...very detailed info on your site, ...
The info is related to the tranny slip problem & overall signal quality. Yours goes beyond: comparing two different products... But I want to dig out if u specify a problem.

Surely we've met. I said "Hejssan" - and youre about to say that u dont remember!!! ... After one night in the (only one: pls visit and get experimantal timetrip to Brezhnev -era) Kumla guest house used to spend nights in this place... cool place: http://www.scandic-hotels.se/grandhotel Cannot see next visit happening, but then, I did not even see the first one: The Eriksson Kumla plant has now been dismantled I suppose; all those 700 sony robots sold out?
Old 07-16-2005 | 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Wiking
The info is related to the tranny slip problem & overall signal quality. Yours goes beyond: comparing two different products... But I want to dig out if u specify a problem.
No need, I think I've got everything I need to get all the electronics involved working. But thanks!

Originally Posted by Wiking
Surely we've met. I said "Hejssan" - and youre about to say that u dont remember!!! ... After one night in the (only one: pls visit and get experimantal timetrip to Brezhnev -era) Kumla guest house used to spend nights in this place... cool place: http://www.scandic-hotels.se/grandhotel Cannot see next visit happening, but then, I did not even see the first one: The Eriksson Kumla plant has now been dismantled I suppose; all those 700 sony robots sold out?
Oh yeah of course I remember! hehe but who knows? Did you drive your Maxima..? I'm guessing no... if you did I would have seen you I suppose, as long as I was around. There are not many max's around here so whenever I see one I tend to stare at it

Yeah Ericsson has cut down to almost nothing. Out of a couple of thousand employees there's like 50 left. Not much left of Kumla nowadays. After the shoe factories died came Ericsson, after that died was nothing but the enormous jail for the worst convicts in sweden. As I said two of my neighbours are working there (partially anyway) and they tell stories that's really hard to belive about the inside. And every once in a while a couple escapes and causes panic in all of Kumla. That's when you fear for your parents.
Old 07-16-2005 | 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Phatsta
No need, I think I've got everything I need to get all the electronics involved working. ...
I have hands on experience of one of those ecapees, 2001 - 06:00am... so I'll send u some pics/txt as its really out of forum scope. U never could build East Germany into Sweden
Old 07-16-2005 | 12:21 PM
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but spark plugs man, those should last like at least 15000 - 30000 miles, more if there iridium or platinum, to me thats just kind of wasting money... but i guess copper plugs are pretty cheap
Old 07-16-2005 | 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by acidspit86
but spark plugs man, those should last like at least 15000 - 30000 miles, more if there iridium or platinum, to me thats just kind of wasting money... but i guess copper plugs are pretty cheap
Yeah I use NGK copper plugs and they are around $2 a piece here. Since I'm usually driving the car pretty hard (can't help it, heavy right foot ) I rather change them too often than vice versa.

But hey, 15000 miles sound a bit much..?
Old 07-16-2005 | 04:10 PM
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Oh man I just made the biggest blunder

I do not change every 900 miles. I change every 6000 miles.

We don't use miles here in europe as you might know. Well some places do but not us anyway. So I use a mile - km distance converter and somehow I messed it up... don't know exactly what I did
Thanks for pointing that out acidspit86
Old 07-18-2005 | 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Phatsta
Hehe yeah... actually he lives in Finland but his sig says stockholm only because ppl tend to know stockholm better on the map. But he is very helpful though. He's one of the more tolerant, logical and knowledgeable persons I know of. He's great.
Sounds good.. Then please share with him the translater or what ever it is you are using that is making me perfectly understand you. It's like a math problem sometimes trying to figure out what Wiking posts(no offense Walt ) Good info, but hard to understand.

BTW, good to hear you got everything working successefully. I am going for this upgrade in the near future as well.
Old 07-18-2005 | 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe Fontinyatz
Sounds good.. . hard to understand. ...
When u grow older and have possibility to see further than V6, to see that the world is a ball, NOT just US but WE - that will give broader understanding. Only few % of wold pop uses the dialect youre uSing, so pls raise your sights...
Old 07-19-2005 | 02:48 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Joe Fontinyatz
Sounds good.. Then please share with him the translater or what ever it is you are using that is making me perfectly understand you. It's like a math problem sometimes trying to figure out what Wiking posts(no offense Walt ) Good info, but hard to understand.

BTW, good to hear you got everything working successefully. I am going for this upgrade in the near future as well.
Well yeah I understand you, I have some problems understanding certain things as well, again no offense Wiking Finnish dialects tend to be a bit harder to understand in general. But if you, as Wiking says, try to see the basics in the sentence it'll be much easier to understand.

Thanks, I hope your swap goes well! I can certainly not complain on mine, it was relatively painless. Much thanks to the internet and you guys. I tried to read up on what I needed to do before I got started, doing the job itself was pretty much basic except for electronics which is my Achilles heal... but it turned out just fine!
Old 07-19-2005 | 02:59 AM
  #38  
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Who would translate US this gibberish, full of grammatical errors: "Then please share with him the translater or what ever it is you are using that is making me perfectly understand you. "
Old 07-19-2005 | 09:47 PM
  #39  
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Sorry Wiking. Didn't mean to upset you. It still doesn't define the fact, that Phatsta is speaking as if he lives next door to me, and your not. Just trying to make it easier for you, and everyone else. What ever
Old 07-20-2005 | 02:01 AM
  #40  
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Sorry Fontjazz. Didn't mean to upset you. It still doesn't define the fact, that Phatsta is speaking as if he lives next door to me, and your not. Just trying to make it easier for you, and everyone else. What ever?

Dunno about your conversations with pasta, for me thisis just writing about vehicles including typos, NOT egopumping.

If u have problems reading, stopit. Veery simpl. Its wisdom to get own grammar edu classes thru FIRST before complainin others. Try typing som understandable, intelligent - About vehicles... Thats THE purpose in this forum.


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