i know a 2 gauge pod form an integra will kind of fit our cars. will the gauge pod from a 95 maxima work?

 

they have a 3 gauge mount for the 3rd gen....someone come in here w/ the link.

 

this one is mrgones http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...97&postcount=2

 

what year integra? :looksat96tegseingaragewith2gaugepodbyinstrumentcl uster:

 

a early 90s integra, you can see it at cardomain.com/profile/xrrcd

i was looking for a 2 gauge rather than 3

 

i have a 2 guage pod, here is mine---->

i think i have the same guages as mr. gone, the top and botom ones (of his). hope this helps! ohh and nice car by the way, lots of mods i see

 

looks like Oil Pressure then volts

I had volts/fuelpressure/egt and was waiting to replace the afr with fuel pressure.

 

where did you get the pod from?

 

you can get them from gaugepods.com

 

how come on the website there is only a 3 gague pillar pod. i was looking for a 2 gauge one and didnt want to put the plug in an unused one

 

they only make a 3 gauge pod for our maxima

 

us 3rd genner require the maximum rice level...2 wouldn't cut it

 

i got mine with the car, dont know where from, but it fits pretty good. ill look for a brand name tomorrow (its late now)

 

thanks for the help. i think ill just go with the integra one cause it fits pretty good. when its installed ill post pics. i had a 3 gauge unit from summit racing that were digital gauges which went where the cupholders go but the water temp gaue didnt work. since i only need 2 gauges ill just go with the pillar pod.

 

Just a quick couple of questions on the subject of gauges and gauge pods.

1.) How does the pod attach to the door frame?

2.) Do the gauges come with info on where to wire them/Is it a pain in the butt to get the gauges wired or is it pretty simple?

Also, how much should a gauge by itself cost? Some cost over $100 while some are $20, whats a good price range/brand?

 

Yeah the guage pod for a 95 maxima worked for me... i just pop rivited it to the a pillar...and its for sale if anyone wants it for 35 plus shipping (does not include guages)

 

1 - screws into the stock one...or if you're brave screws into the A-pillar metal

2 - info..yes...pain...depends what you get.

you get what you pay for.

 

Well, for gauges that are backlit, could I find one of those for $30 or so.

 

It depends on what guage you want.... the brand of the guage will affect the price some, but it also has alot to do with what kind of guage you are looking for.

 

is it hard to wire up an air /fuel ratios gauge?

 

The air/fuel isnt hard, you just have to find the right wire to tap into at the ECU.

 

Does anyone have a link for this?

 

Which 3 would you say are the easiest to wire?

 

I wouldn't buy or trust anything less than Autometer

GReddy/Defi/Apexi if you want to drop the money

 

Let me ask you guys a question...Do you install these aftermarket gauges simply for looks, or do you do it because you need the information the gauges provide?

 

I think there are only 2 of us in the thread that actually need/needed them for information


atleast on an engine critical level.

 

im installing a water temp gauge cause mine went out, and also putting a voltmeter in just to monitor the batt

 

 

nah, the bling gauge only has 3 wires.

 

You can just spliceinto the ecu for the a/f gauge? thoguht you needed a wideband o2 sensor for one of those.For the most of what I see only a couple even need gauges of any sort besides stock ones.

BJ White

 

the A/F gauge that they're talking about isn't for use with a wideband. that's why it can work with the stock sensor

 

I sitll dont quite understand since I thought to get a good a/f reading you needed a wideband O2..

then again I guess they might just not give a good reading except the basic rich or lean or stoich without stating how lean or how rich.Would that be a corret assumption (i don't even know anyone with a a/f gauge so I have no clue )

 

to get a more accurate reading you'll need the wideband O2...correct. the autometer "light show" gauge uses the stock O2 and reads that.

it's virtually useless in a stock car (exhaust and intake is still "stock car") running a stock ECU, pulling signal from a stock O2...hey the light show is cool right? woooooooooo.....

WB gauges come with the WB O2 sensor and the WB display.

 

are you laughing because I said 2?



ok ok, I used my disco ball to catch the ladies

 

which 2 you referring to?

 

Hey, for some of us the gauges are actually functional! I'm actually getting a 5th one for coolant temp!


As for the A/F discussion, I would say just get a wideband. With the narrowband O2 (stock), you only get rich, lean, and stoich readings. So basically, you will know only when your car is running pig rich or blowing up. Buy another gauge to fill the spot, or save for the wideband. Even at that, a wideband is only really necessary for tuning purposes, but it does give you peace of mind.

 

i stopped at 4...

 

most WB aren't designed to be used all the time. they're designed for tuning purposes only.
YMMV

 

I think that depends more on the unit itself. Meaning that the Innovate LM-1 is kinda bulky, so you probably wouldn't want that in your car all the time, but the XD-1 gauge is made for a permenant installation. Most all of the sensors are the same though, but they don't get as much life out of them as the factory O2 sensors. I know widebands are fairly sensitive to moisture and being left in the exhaust without being turned on.

 

the sensor itself is what I'm refering too, not the gauge