This is crazy.... My next clutch will be the 3rd on the car. It has a new trany with under 10,000. And slaves ans master have been changed ALL again.

I finally have good pressure, predictable release etc. NOW the problem is a creaking sound when depressed. And when i release the clutch (in gear, in motion, anything) It slides back, has a click feel and then continues to release.

I'm getting weary pulling out the tranny. Am I missing something?

Flywheel is good, no teeth missing.

I don't really want to walk away from this car.... Way too much time in it.

 

what clutches have you used already?
what throw out bearings?

 

ALL OEM. Dealer bearing, forks, and 2 clutchs.
This clutch is from napa i believe.

 

do you know how to drive stick?

 

[QUOTE=tripleGmax]do you know how to drive stick?

This is the one place I thought I might get help.

 

u mean youve never said a joke in a thread instead of offering some sorta help? ok then......


sorry i have no advice for you. good luck

 

[QUOTE=therealgoon9]
Unless you are F/I, 2 clutches in 10,000 miles implies either a poor install, break-in, or driving habits. I've got over 100,000 miles on the stock clutch and still going strong. Maybe try an Exedy Stage 1?

 

HAAAAAAAAAAAAAhaaaaaaa

maybe you should try a clutch from autozone with a LIFETIME WARRENTY

or an aftermarket clutch my act/clutchnet combo has lasted 25k with no signs of dieing

 

:eek3:


they actually do that?

My Napa hates me for the lifetime warrenty Axles, but a lifetime warrenty clutch? thats the most retarded/genius thing I've heard!

now if only it is not key value quality



oh, and I bet you wish you could say the same for your tranny

 

describe annoying noises in more detail...

where is the creaking coming from?

lube the slave cylinder pushrod thingy.. did you lube the shift fork pivot ball inside the tranny when you had it all apart?
what about the contact points on the release fork against the TO bearing?

did you lube the splines on the input shaft and the aluminum housing where the TO bearing slides?


popping in the clutch pedal is somewhat normal on these cars.. is it a small "tick" coming from inside the cabin, or is it something on the tranny side of things?

 

Just really stressed about this, just wasn't funny.

 

The bearing has a dry sound, not to the point of marbles, but has a constant sound



[B]The I believe the creak is from the the fork at some point.

lube the slave cylinder pushrod thingy.. did you lube the shift fork pivot ball inside the tranny when you had it all apart?
what about the contact points on the release fork against the TO bearing?



did you lube the splines on the input shaft and the aluminum housing where the TO bearing slides?

[I'm starting to believe I was owned by the tranny shop even more than what I thought. Before I had them change out the tranny, I think they gave me a bad clutch, and they took my new fork and bearing..... BEcause the clutch was PERFECT until it was changed. I think I just need to crack it open again... ANd it'll be cool.

BTW, it was COTTMAN Transmission, THEY'LL run with your money and turn a 12 month warranty into a 1 month one....

popping in the clutch pedal is somewhat normal on these cars.. is it a small "tick" coming from inside the cabin, or is it something on the tranny side of things?[/QUOTE]

There is a cabin tick, that doesn't bother me too much. But there is a tick that is felt when releasing the clutch. Depressing it is rough too....

 

It does sound like you were owned. Thats why I do all my work my self.

~Alex

 

I know... That was the ONE time i brought it into a shop.
Other than alingments... Even then, when i gotto NTB they make me go and align it with the tech, lol.

 

yeah, pretty much the same thing here... the ONE time I paid someone else to work on my car was at a tranny shop, and they bent me over hardcore. $2500 for a horrible clutch that slipped the day I left the shop, and I had to rebuild the tranny myself about 20k miles later.

 

Here is another good reason to go buy tools,repair manuals,beer....AND DO IT YOURSELF!

sorry to yell but i just hate repair shops...Most of them are just out to screw you...

 

yup if i wanted a stockish clutch i would definitly consider getting one of theres with a life time just for the hell of it ive used the lifetime warrenty on 1 axle and front and rear brake pads also so it definitly works out good for me since im kinda hard on stuff

if they offered a liftime on a trans i would put them out of bisness in about 5 years

 

Too bad there isn't one on tires

 

personally I wouldnt trust a lifteime warranty clutch disc or pressure plate or throwout bearing for that matter from a place like NAPA or AZ. Nothing against those stores but lifetime warranty stuff from them is usually ramanned and I wouldnt buy and use remanned clutches and pressure plates at all. They offer a lifetime on it but you have to think suppose you put it on and a month later it goes bad, yeah the replacement part is free, but what about the work youll have to do to replace it.......especially if it happens over and over.

Not only that but, the reason I dont trust remanned clutches is cause heat does some crazy things to metal depending on application.........like make it weak and brittle.....................now no matter how the previous owner of the clutch drove, the clutch was hot as the blazes during driving, and then cooled rather quickly. now that kind of heat application to the metal wave springs and whatnot just causes them to be weak and in my opinion no good after the friction material is gone. Ive seen what happenes to some remanned clutches................and it aint pretty.

IMHO I would start by looking at the master cylinder for the clutch and make sure that everything is working ok, cause you never know it might not be the way your driving, or the parts, it may be that the MC isnt letting the clutch fully engage and therefore its just slippin all the time and wearing away.
just my $.02

 

I just changed the mc, same results.

 

It may not be the part itself........it could be that the clutch pedal push rod is misadjusted and not allowing the piston inside the MC retract all the way, which would keep the clutch half engaged.

It works like the same way for brakes too. If the pushrod is misadjusted in the booster then it will not allow the brakes to fully retract.

 

this is why i cant understand maximas. you can never really tell whats wrong with them. I have a 1990 Maxima SE, stock(so far except for rims) and i had to get the engine rebuilt after a timing belt incident. Shortly after that, I dropped cylinder 2 and was told that my injector was shot. It cleared up randomly one day, and it was fine for about 5 months. then one day, i start the car, and it feel like the injector is clogged again. I check the spark and find that cylinder 6 isnt firing properly. then, it starts working again two days later. ever since then, ive been getting really poor gas mileage. when i say poor, i mean i get like 120 miles to a TANK. when i got the car i was getting about 350 miles to a tank. I tried everything i could think of. I changed the distributor cap, changed the plugs, im pretty sure the wires are good, i took it to a mechanic, he told me that the fuel pressure was good, and that the car isnt running too rich or too lean(he did an emissions test), the car is a little sluggish ever since the rebuild, but thats not surprising, but anyway, he told me to try replacing the fuel filter, and im also going to have an injector cleaning done. it doesnt idle rough, and i use 89 octane gas. Also, speaking of gas, i don't smell any and there is never a puddle of anything under the car, even when its been sitting for a long time, so i know its not a leak. And, just to add one more thing, there is no smoke coming out of the tailpipe, but on one or two occasions when i started the car after it had been sitting all nite, some greyish smoke came out of the tailpipe for about oone second. the fumes from the tailpipe dont smell out of the ordinary, but when the car is in park, if you put your hand up to the tailpipe, it feels like its misfiring ever so slightly. anyway, If the injector cleaning doesnt work, then im hard pressed to know why im getting such bad economy.

 

We have a bmw 5spd that was at the shop. Customer was replacing clutches over and over. So they finally put in a transmission. Didn't fix the problem. Took tranny out and then finally a master tech checked the car out and the problem all along was the little old pilot bearing. They changed that put back in the old tranny and the car never came back. I know it's a Bmw but it's the same principle and you seem to be having the same problem. And most people when they change a clutch only change the pressure plate/disc and throw out bearing and always forget the pilot bearing

 

On our cars, the input shaft doesn't even touch the pilot bearing.they're insanely difficult to replace, and honestly not needed.

if it were a RWD transmission that actuall touched the pilot bearing, that would be a different story.

 

I think my clutch master cylinder went out on me. I went to start it and the pedal went to the floor and stayed there. I looked under the car and it looks like the fluid all leaked out onto the ground. How should I diagnose this to see if it really is the master cylinder? How hard is it to replace?

 

Don't know if this will help any or even if it's the same sound but I've got a sorta clicking/squeeking noise coming from the clutch pedal whenever I depress/release it. It sounds like it's coming from the pedal itself tough because it's quite loud, if it had been coming from the master cylinder or anything inside the engine bay I'd expected it to be a bit dampened.
I think it's only metal to metal grinding when the pedal moves on it's holder. I've tried to grease it up a bit and it got a bit more quite but the noise is still there. I'm sure it'll go away if I take it apart and put some plastic or something in between there.

Just a thought. Might be your problem, perhaps?

 

If you've done some work before it's not very hard at all.
First of all locate the leak. If it's a pipe or anything like that see if you can tighten it or replace if needed. If it's really the master cylinder (the small container on the far left (drivers) side mounted to the firewall) you'll just have to unbolt it from the pipes and the firewall, and of course the clutch pedal and it'll slip right out. The pedal is mounted to the master cylinder with a sprint and a threadless bolt, easy enought to get out. Worst case scenario you'll have to loosen the clutch pedal assembly from the ceiling underneath the dash. Then just bolt in another one in the reverse order. Piece of cake if you have some skills.

 

Actually when I swapped out my engine, it took me maybe 10 minutes to change. If you have a cltch allignment tool its easy. But I too noticed while looking at the input shaft of the tranny that it didnt even seem to come close to the pilot bearing.

 

Ain't this just life...
Yesterday I replied to this thread and what happens first thing today?
- My clutch system have leaked so I've got like 20% clutch engaging. Ain't that just typical?

 

Heh... I try not to use the 'C' word for the same reason lol.

 

That's actually how mine first started... then I could pump it and it would get back to normal for awhile. I fixed the problem last night. It was the slave cylinder that bolts to the tranny. It was super easy to change and only cost around $30. There are two bolts that hold it to the tranny and a bolt that is the hose that feeds the brake (clutch) fluid to it. I swapped it out, blead it and it was good to go.