Bought a manual '92 SE two weeks ago. The place said I could buy it, drive away and never look back, for $1700. 121K miles. Blue book said it was worth probably twice that, so off I drove.

Initially it would have this issue, random, when accelerating it would just suddenly slow down on it's own, and continue to slow down until I let off completely of the gas and pressed down again. Different gears, different rpms, same story. But too intermittent to tie it down.

Put some good gas, 93 octane at that, in it, and that pretty much went away after a few days (although it DID do it to me last week once). But my idle still goes up and down sometimes, stalled once or twice. Also maintaining a constant speed it will buck and surge some. But oddly, never cruising at highways speeds in 5th. Like, never.

I'm wondering if it wasn't such a good deal after all. Checked the coils, they looked good. Changed the spark plugs. Cleaned the TB. Replaced the fuel filter. Did the MAF test (unplugging while running) and it shut off like it was supposed to. Checked the ECU codes, gave me 5-5 (normal operation).

What am I missing?

 

should have taken to a autoshop and at least take it for a test drive before all of that

 

Is the car in your sig picture your car that you just bought? Because it has a third brake light in the back window which only came on GXE's....

 

are you sure it's not the coil packs? My brothers car buck and surge and we found a bad rear coil pack (saw it arcing at night). We also found the front coilpacks had cracks on the body.

It can also feel like there is no power, just like you mention, the car just didn't respond and felt like it was slowing down.

 

The car in my pic is my old '96 Altima (R.I.P.) I'm a longtime member of altimas.net and I had modded my altima majorly (but no rice ) before totalling it 3 weeks ago.

I'll look at it now at night and see if it arcs. I should see that easily just the hood being up?

 

1. possible injectors (VERY unlikely)
2. Coolant tamp sensor is my more likely guess.
it's most likely an electrical part that is heating up and malfunctioning.
your MAF may still be failing, that test doesn't prove much. if the maf has failed or isn't connected the car will run upto 2500 RPM no more than that though.

 

Ahh I feel your pain thajones. I just picked up a 94 nissan maxima a few weeks ago for 1000.. and it has been nothing but problems since I got it.. starter/valve cover gaskets and now it seems it needs a new actuator assembly.. Which brings to my point.. anyone know where I could find a cheap actuator assembly or plans on how to rebuild one.

 

what is the actuator assembly suppose to actuate ive never heard of anything on a maxima called an actuator assembly

and to the main problem

coil packs coil packs coil packs coil packs coil packs coil packs coil packs coil packs coil packs coil packs coil packs coil packs coil packs coil packs

 

the antilock break actuator assembly. on 94 down it is the metal object behind the the passenger headlight with 6 metal pipes comming out of it.. it controls the break pressure to each wheel

 

A friend of mine had a similar problem about 10 years ago.

With him though, it was water in the gas. Everytime his fuel level dropped to a certain point, it would hesistate. After running a few bottles of fuel additives to rid of water in the tank (alcohol-based, designed to mix with the water), it went a way.

Hopefully, it's simple as something like this, but do get it checked out.

 

ABS Proportioning Valve Assy?

 

Id go with coil packs first, if not also try the throttle position sensor.

~Alex

 

Coil Packs is the first thing that I would check it sounds about right, but Throttle position sensor wouldn't cause that

 

Why not? It kinda sounds like the ECU has no idea where the engine is so it cant make power. or maybe its loose and letting off puts it where it needs to be....

~Alex

 

Maybe it needs some good driving and getting rid of whatever gas is in there. Drive it a bit, give it a full tune up and keep on putting some good old 93 octane. I'm thinking it probably sat at the dealer.

-Diego

 

the haynes manual refers to it as a ABS Actuator Assembly. call it what you want though. any idea where I can get a cheap one or plans to rebuild one.

 

Hmm. Looked at it last nite, didn't see any arcing (or any obvious to me, that is). Doesn't mean one or more ain't bad tho, I suppose. But wouldnt a code for that cylinder be stored in the ECU?

I've been running nothing but Exxon since I bought 'er (and I think that was a major reason why it was suddenly slowing down). So although it still did it once last week, it was JUST that once.

Hesitation/surging while maintaining a speed is definitely annoying too, and that's all the time (unless cruisin' around 65 or so).

I shoulda known something was up I guess when there was a Haynes manual IN the trunk when I bought it.

No kiddin.

 

Have you checked for intake air leaks? this will cause the MAF to incorrectly report the amount of air entering the engine, and cause bad idle and possibly your acceleration issues, but won't affect crusing once the ECU is in closed loop operation and ignoring the MAF.

 

well if you filled the gas tank and the problem seemed to get better, then it might be the filter on the fuel pump.

the fuel pump is cheap ~$100 and comes with a new filter. Also change the fuel filter under the hood. If you can, do a fuel pressure test, but the filter under the hood should be replaced anyway (regular maintanance).

edit: remember you bought a USED maxima, EXPECT PROBLEMS. No one would have sold it if it purred and smoked the tires every time

 

I second the fuel pump and filter. Quick and relatively cheap repair.

 

coil packs coil packs

i had the exact same story as you - bought a VE max for 1700, thought it was too good to be true - had similar issues. TESTED every coil pack, ALL ohm'd out perfect. INSPECTED with a magnifying glass, NONE had cracks. finally came back after much sweat and blood and replaced them for the hell of it. ALL problems went away. was not too good to be true.
also - mine seemed to go away when i filled up as well - so that threw me off. but yea go ahead and change the fuel filter. its not going to fix it but you might as well.

 

My old VE5 with a rear window third brake light. Granted I put it in there but still. Pervis wanted a spoiler though so I took the 3rd brake light out and just used the spoiler light because a window light and spoiler light at the same time is just too redneck .

 

Mine was leaking at the center where the cylinders meet the bottom part on the ABS "thingy (very technical term there) " so I got one out of a car in a junk yard for $35 and so far its holding up *knocks on wood...* Id offer to grab you one but I only came across one maxima w/ abs in the local yard and I took it

 

Now I'll tell you what's real interesting....

drove around a bit today, and since wifey was with me I drove with the AC on. Would you believe the RPMS stayed really stable? And I was able to cruise at like 35mph in 4th and it felt like normal (no bucking)?

Now whaddaya make of that? Of course, gas being the price it is, I'm not driving around with my AC on 24/7.

 

A/C on cause the idle to be raised by means of an IAC device

 

http://www.car-part.com/ they have some listed for under 100$ but your cheapest bet would be a junk yard

 

So my IAC may be at fault.......? Wait, that doesn't make any sense.

I guess I just figured if my coil packs were bad it would drive poorly regardless of what speed I was going.

Meh.

I miss my Alty.

 

it may very well be. but once you're over 1k rpm it shouldn't make any difference. so your problem may have multiple causes.

BTW how many time did you replace the distributor in your altima?

 

on new coil packs, especially the rear.

Coil packs will test out fine and show no cracks, but still be faulty. ECU showed a 5-5 code. It seems like the front ones that get cracks only seem to make the idle stumble sometimes.



I had a bad rear coil pack and my car would stall/bog down randomly, especially when I stomped on the throttle. They only fail under load, generally under a heavy load, like going up a hill or punching the gas.

I replaced every single thing possible before finally doing the rear coil packs. Since they looked brand new I thought they were not the problem. Ask MrGone. He came down here and we spent 1/2 a day swapping stuff over. Cam sensor, throttle sensor, MAF sensor, ECU, all to no avail. I swapped in three good coil rear packs and never had another problem.

 

Never had to replace it. Bought my Alty with 30K on it and totalled it with 148K. Took good care of 'er tho, intake/exhaust, amsoil in the crankcase and tranny, MSD ignition. Got her up from the 22/29mpg listed to 30/35mpg, city/highway.

I am going to find some coil packs. Hopefully from the guy in the classified forum.

 

OBD I vehicles (ie pre 96 in most cases) will not store misfire codes.

 

Dam you were lucky then.
We were stocking 5 of them at a shot at one point, that's how often they would fail.
always the same failure too. bad seal, let oil up into everything.

 

Now THAT is good to know. Just picked some coil packs in the classified section, if that is the culprit, I will dance at everyone's wedding.

Electric slide, anyone?

 

thajones, just noticed you are in bad news, va! I used to work at the daily press newspaper. I'm in St Pete, FL now, sweatin to the oldies

 

Yeah, my last duty station was Ft. Monroe, and I decided to stay. That was before I learned about the wonderful world of Hurricanes on the coast.

 

i had the same exact problem with my 89 GXE... it turned out to be my MAF.... got one used under $100... popped it in ....problem solved

 

Was it right behind your passenger headlight?

 

Have you tested the TPS? Thats what it sounds like to me.

 

Hehe I am technically in zephyrhills but I am staying with my g/f for now. Mmmm sweet zephyrhills TAP water

 

What's the test for the TPS? Is that the one where you drill a small hole and fill with contact cleaner?