So I am troubleshooting some wiring problems. Yesterday I put on a different CAI, my friend was helping me out, and messed with the two black fuse boxes, and the car would not turn over. Today, I messed with the lower box, and got it to start, but when I put the cover back on, nothing. Does anyone know which fuse, or maybe it is a relay, is related to the starter? The problem is not the starter, although I did get a free replacement just to eliminate that. I would rather not have to push-start my car every time I feel like going somewhere.Thanks

 

I guess some bad oxidation on fuses, relays, connectors?

Starter page: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/5


More Details? Favorite Links...

 

you know, I actually agree with wiking on this one.
sounds like corosion on a connector or 2 to me

 

Wiking! That is awesome man. Thanks for the pic; that definately helps. You are right, it is oxidation. I haven't had the time to resolder the connections yet, but I do have my brake lights working now....aren't you proud?

 

Yes, if will prove not to be injectors

 

One of the relays deals with the fuel pump, and the previous owner put a weird looking relay on it, and it is ghetto-rigged. Does that also deal with the ignition? On my relay box, your number four is for air conditioning, and the number 2 is for anti-theft, which does not, and has not worked for a while.

 

Do u speak of two ? boxes in same sentence. Cannot figure out...

The fuel pump relay is in the trunk (p.15). Its powered via ign key/relay. U should hear the pump when u turn the key... Theres also ECU safety (tst =take off)

Tst = take off the inhibit -relay, and replace it with similar relay(horn?). Check also fuse panel in cabin.
Ign sw contacts may wear out...

 

There is some relay that is somehow connected to another relay under the smaller canister that has two vacuum lines going in and out of it. The connections are loose, and when the key is in the on position and I mess with those, it clicks and I hear fuel run in the rails. That is the one that is poorly conected, but I don't think that it is starter-related. The car drives just fine, just won't start on it's own. Yesterday, another friend was messing with the relay box while I had the key turned all the way, and the starter worked, however when we tried a few moments later to duplicate the result, it did not work. Should I put an ammonia soaked rag down in that area? Since my anti-theft does not work, is there any way to bypass that to eliminate that possibilty?

 

Read, pls. Already mentioned 2times THE inhibit relay which is activated by shiftselector/clutch-sw & a-theft... =inhibits start. Swap. Look first pic [4.]. Please.

Check out Favorite Links http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/1 for 'some' details.

Ammonia???? I am a snowman...

About the xtra relays: buy connectors, tools, wire. Replace all loose connectors, wiring, with new. If done one by one, no need to know about the schema.


Grey connector; NOT connected to battery: Starter wire loop (one W/Red stripe -thick wire). This loop comes from Inhibitor Switch (see below) and goes to starter solenoid coil pin. (May be used for direct start; disconnect, short wire coming from starter direct to +12V.)

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/5

 

Awesome; I can now start my car up the right way....or close to the right way. Just took wire that came from the relay, and hit it to the hotwire; now I need to rewire that section of wires and relays. Thanks for the help walt.

 

I'd just swap horn relay on its place...

This is what the former owner did to u pump relay. If no schemas, who could guess pump relay hides in trunk? Easier to rewire...