xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

okay so...lol i was out saturday night and my brakes dont work lmao scared the poop out of me! goto a church place to see whats up "no brake fluid" i mean NONE! lol onto walmart we all go...get some brake fluid fill'er up didnt fix it...next morning i pumped the brakes....worked fine! next day morning i looked to check up on it...EMPTY fill'er up again ha! tonight its been 4 days....i actually had a second person look at it to see where the leak would be coming from :-/ i pressed on the brakes im looking through the crack all i see is a SPRAY! like it was a crap load! its a rod that is vertical that is in front of the pump there are 3 it is the middle one. now...can that be a replacement part?....or just get a whole new ABS pump?...

ejoy1220

Ha this exact same thing has been happening to me, every few days the BRAKE light will come on and it will need a lot of fluid. I figured it's a pinhole leak somewhere in the system, but no idea where to start.

xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

your brakes give out yet?...

Wiking

I'd go huntin on junkyards. Find one max with clean fluid (!?), get ABS assy out of that.
Or -you may open the assy and replace seals, need to be special for the brake fluid. Dont expect to find seals from std spares shop, I guess ABS assy repair is a nono.

ejoy: start by assessing rear tubing for rust, rubber hoses for brittle. Also look whole wheel arc, bottom area for rust. Look for rust recall link below

twinkle

iTrader: (1)

yea, the seals are what is bad, and they dont sell just them, not even at the stealership, you need a new ABS pump, I have one for sale for $100 and shipping (dont expect to find them any cheeper)

maxrust

I would like to by that if it's a 47600-96E00 in good shape.
Send me e-mail directly.

Thanks,

maxrust

maxrust

Do you know how to open the darn assembly? Do you need a special puller tool?

Thanks,

maxrust

Wiking

...havent seen any info, only schema in the FSM. Maybe youre the first one with givin us pics & writeup?

maxrust

Yag ska lära opna ABS actuator, men yag can inte posta bilder--yag
är "newbie".

Var can yag shoppa O-rings och andra "seals" för pumpen?

Tack,

Maxrust

Wiking

Gå till techno gummi butik. Fråga phasta [örebro] om du kan köpa pumpen, hans max var flattened... titta på http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=431036

Try making a svenskt site till exempel at www.cardomain.com , upload u pics, copy u pic address here. (At the moment CD is closed...)

maxrust

Stakash phasta! När yag är i Orebro nasta, yag ska ringa till han för köpa pumpen.
Yag trur ätt Twinkle är nära. Om han har pumpen, och om den är bra, yag can köpa fran
han.

Var fan är techno gummi butik här i USA. Vi har "Pep Boys" här, men yag viet inte
vilken o-rings kan tå brake fluid.

Tack,

Maxrust

Wiking

Om du blir instant-expert, writeup pls. Oh, NJ inte närä öre-bro?

pasta-pics cont:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=433355

twinkle

iTrader: (1)

I'm not 100% on if thats the right part number but I can have my parents bring it up next weekend and we can try it out. And you probly live right around the conner from me, I live right between moorestown and mount laurel

maxrust

Cool... have them check the part number and let me know. It should be right near the top of the valve unit, on a plate angled 45 degrees, opposite the electrical connectors. The plate also says "Nippon ABS" on it.

Also, do you think it's in pretty good shape still? If it has another year or two of life in it for $100, that might be worth it. Heck... it costs nearly $40 to fill up these days, and much more than that in Sweden (ref: previous posts).

Thanks,
maxrust

maxrust

Good news:

OK, I finally got time to sit down and figure out how to get the actuator assembly apart. There are 4 obvious allen-head bolts that you have to remove.
From that point, there are two others toward the center that are hidden by some metal caps. The caps take a little effort to remove. I did it with a sharpened screw driver, that I pounded in a little, and then pried the caps off. This pretty much destroys the caps, but they appear to be decorative (or possibly simply deterrant) in nature.

Once the two additional allen-head bolts were out, the valve body came off the pump portion easily, with a little hand-applied force and gentle rocking.

Once apart, it appears that the problem might simply be some o-rings on the pump side of 4 tubes that run between the pump and valve portions of the assembly. The valves look pretty easy to remove too, but I don't see any fluid leaking around them... it looks like its coming primarily from around the o-ringed tubes.

The o-rings to use, I think are:
ID: 5mm
OD: 7mm
W: 1mm

Acceptable o-ring materials are not the typical, but somthing like virgin teflon, butyl, ethylene-propylene, or styrene butadiene... that is, according to a quick internet search. Now I just have to find some local "techo gummi butik", because I don't like to shop online.

If I can find replacement o-rings, and if it fixes the leak, this is an incredibly simple fix that could save $1200 (from different shop estimates).

I think this failure mode is a up-and-comming common one, so identifying it and a simple fix will hopefully be a big help.

Note that I'm not a certified Nissan ABS technician, so take everything I say with all disclaimers. If you undertake this job yourself, I would strongly recommend to thoroughly clean the assmebly before starting the work, to minimize contamination. I would also recommend checking brake fluid levels daily, in general.

Here is a picture of 47600 96E00 separated in two sections:

http://users.erols.com/russojl/images/abs.jpg
(800k, so don't click without good connection)

I removed the o-rings from the 4 tubes (located at top and bottom of pic of the left (valve) half of the assembly). The 4 big seals on the right portion are not o-rings, but some kind of compression seal, and they appear to be fine.

The o-rings were pretty dirty, and one was worn. Each tube only has one o-ring to seal the tube-pump junction. A joint so critical and fault sensitive, should have had (but doesn't) a double seal... one to stop dirt getting in, and an inner one for the sure seal. It appears to be o-ring damage caused by external stuff slowly working its way in to the seal over the years as opposed to "bad maintenance".

Thanks,
Maxrust

Wiking

Pics please, under bright light, steady hand.

In any case, u have to upload pics onto a server. Login on Cardomain.com, make your own site and place the pics there.

Then write here the picture address.

Write here 15x mails, status changed, I suppose.

twinkle

iTrader: (1)

well, when I took mine apart prior to purchaceing the one I have for sale they didnt really look like o rings, but more like custom seals, and as for the abs pump I'm sure it does. Also if you want (still dont have the part number) we can put it in and see that it works, before you pay for it.

maxrust

Yeah... the big seals on the pump body are custom... It's the four small tubes
that run between the two halves where the tiny o-rings go. It's those tube
o-ring seals which have evidently failed on my system. The four custom seals look like
they're in good shape still. They're pretty protected
from the elements. The o-ring seals had a clear, gravity-fed path for dirt to
work in over the years, which is what caused the failure in my estimation.

Let's find out the part number you have before trying it. The part has to be
exactly the same, according to the lore out there, due to the way it inter-operated
with the master cylinder.

I might just end up going the o-ring route, if I can find them somewhere, so I don't
want you to take your ABS modulator off the market at any rate. Maybe
the only place I can find the brake-fluid approved o-rings of the right size is on
another unit. Only two of the o-rings were really bad on mine (the two
closer to the dirt path)... the other two look to be in good condition.

maxrust

BTW, how did you end up resolving the problem? Did you end up fixing your old pump, bypassing the ABS with a new master cyl and diverter, or getting a new car altogether?

-maxrust

xbubbax

oh geez, i just filled up my brake fluid i was getting the brake light, i hope i dont have an issue also with the ABS pump.........but my ABS light is always on to begin with. i think the moron before i owned the car didnt hook up the ABS sensor when he put the 2000 maxima rims on the car.

Wiking

Run ABS self diag, might even indicate u problem.
click on http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/21

xbubbax

hey thanks.....but also how do you read the ecu, do you need a computer tester/usally hoos up under the dash near the fusebox correct?

twinkle

iTrader: (1)

I replaced the ABS pump with the one I'm selling you then totaled the car a week later which is why I am now selling it :-/

xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

sooo you got to dis-assemble the ABS pump correct?.. and those rods you said are easily removable?... thats what leaks, the rods i have one rod that just SPRAYS no O-ring leaks...its the rod

maxrust

If the brake fluid level was pretty low (in both halves of the resevervoir?) and your pads are still pretty decent, you might have a leak somewhere. Also, if your pads have worn down, this could be another explanation... because as they wear down, the pistons automatically push out further to compensate, drawing fluid from the reservoir.

Also, inspect the pump&valve assembly, possibly with an assistant goosing the brake while the engine is on to create a nice vacuum. And as always, don't get fingers or anything close to the belts or pulleys when the engine is on.

maxrust

Yes... I got it apart no problem after prying the caps hiding two addional bolts. The pump-side of the rods removed quite easily (I removed all four at once as I lifted the valve body from the pump portion by hand).

It seems like the valve-side of the tube will remove easily as well, although I didn't remove the other side, because the seals seemed good there (see image referenced in original writeup).

Are you sure that the rod itself is leaking? That is, it's not an illusion and it's actually coming from the seal? This is bizzare, because the rods are pretty thick, and there shouldn't be any pitting or corrosion mechanism in that area.

This is also unfortunate (unless you happen to have a metal shop), becuase the rods look like they're custom machined. If it's really the rod that cracked or something, I might suggest finding the cheapest junkyard assembly out there (I've seen some for $50), and using the best parts from each to make a "new" one. Clean all the o-rings and o-ring millings thoughroughly before reassembly.

maxrust

Does anyone have the torque specs for the 6 bolts holding the two halves of the 47600-96E00 together?

I was just going to tighten them with slightly more torque than was required to remove them... but if someone (without naming any OEMs or remanufacturers specifically) could pipe up with an actual torque figure (and better yet, a source of some rebuild seals), that would be useful info for the common good, seeing as this is going to be a common repair.

This almost seems like safety-recall material, because when the seals finally and seemingly inevitably give, it appears to empty both halves of the master cylinder reservoir rather quickly, doing away with all "fault tolerance" which has been designed into brake systems over the years.

Someone has to know of a source of rebuild seals for these things, because several resellers have remanufactured units, and take a heafty core charge.

-maxrust

xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

sweet dude thanks imma prob go this sat to find an ABS pump VERY helpful (cept the off topic people) and arent the SE's only equipped with ABS? if im not mistaken...

Thankyou very much

twinkle

iTrader: (1)

nope, it was an option on the GXE

btw the numbers off my unit are 47600 96E00 and 361-0761

only my parents forgot it :-/ let me know and i can get it shipped up here tho