Heater Not working?
12-08-2005, 03:28 PM
#41
Originally Posted by blackandwhite
I don't know if this will help YOU, but on MY car I had a similar problem, blower blew at full speed, but no heat. It turned out to be a vacuum line that was disconnect from a little valve that was on the firewall.
12-09-2005, 01:05 PM
#43
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 49
Originally Posted by mtcookson
the first and easiest thing to check is the fresh air valve:
If its not closed, you won't get heat. If you still don't get heat after checking that then you need to check the rest of the problems.
If its not closed, you won't get heat. If you still don't get heat after checking that then you need to check the rest of the problems.
12-09-2005, 05:38 PM
#45
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 49
Originally Posted by wutsup
my heater does not work either. it only works after the engine is warmed up pretty good and its in idle. when im driving it it doesnt work
12-17-2005, 06:51 PM
#52
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Gloucester VA
Posts: 503
If you jack up a 89 vg maxima and run the engine don't you run the risk of the car falling of the jack and won't all the engine oil go to the back of the pan and not properly lubricate the engine?
My car heats up the cabin fine and the coolant temp is right in the middle of the gauge but when acellerating I can hear bubbling/gurrgling of coolant.
If I have to risk all of the above to stop it from making a bubbling noise then I will leave it alone!
Any other reason I must...... must get all the air out of the coolant system?
Thanks Guys
My car heats up the cabin fine and the coolant temp is right in the middle of the gauge but when acellerating I can hear bubbling/gurrgling of coolant.
If I have to risk all of the above to stop it from making a bubbling noise then I will leave it alone!
Any other reason I must...... must get all the air out of the coolant system?
Thanks Guys
12-19-2005, 09:21 PM
#54
there are 2 things you need to do to get it working.
(1) bleed your coolant. Here is howto: no need to take off your tires. Just jack up your front car and place it on jackstands. Make sure the lowest part of your tire is at least 6" off the ground. Higher the better but this should be enough height. Make sure your car is cool before you start. Now that the car is jacked up. Run it and let it idles. Grab a cloth towel and open up your radiator cap. You could also take off the air bleeder screw on top off the manifold too if you like but it doesn't helps that much. Just let your car idles for 30-60mins with your heater blowing at its max temp. I ran mine for an hr.
(2) make sure your radiator core control valve isn't blocked when doing this. it's located on your firewall, there should be one ho ran from your engine block to the control unit and into the heater core. The valve is pressure operated and there are 2 hoes that ran back and forth between the engine block. If valve has problem, it will not open and close properly. Since you wanted heat, make sure you pull one of the air pressure ho and plug it back in. You'll notice that the switch stick will stick out. That's when you coolant flow is opened. When that stick gets shortern, it closed the coolant so you get better AC. I had to do this manually sometime cuz my control valve got rusted and it doesn't works properly sometimes.
(1) bleed your coolant. Here is howto: no need to take off your tires. Just jack up your front car and place it on jackstands. Make sure the lowest part of your tire is at least 6" off the ground. Higher the better but this should be enough height. Make sure your car is cool before you start. Now that the car is jacked up. Run it and let it idles. Grab a cloth towel and open up your radiator cap. You could also take off the air bleeder screw on top off the manifold too if you like but it doesn't helps that much. Just let your car idles for 30-60mins with your heater blowing at its max temp. I ran mine for an hr.
(2) make sure your radiator core control valve isn't blocked when doing this. it's located on your firewall, there should be one ho ran from your engine block to the control unit and into the heater core. The valve is pressure operated and there are 2 hoes that ran back and forth between the engine block. If valve has problem, it will not open and close properly. Since you wanted heat, make sure you pull one of the air pressure ho and plug it back in. You'll notice that the switch stick will stick out. That's when you coolant flow is opened. When that stick gets shortern, it closed the coolant so you get better AC. I had to do this manually sometime cuz my control valve got rusted and it doesn't works properly sometimes.
12-20-2005, 07:53 AM
#55
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 125
I just got done putting in a new themostat in my 91 maxima. the car would warm up if I let it sit, but going down the hwy @ 80mph with temps below freezing the temp needle would never leave its peg. New thermostat (old one was stuck open just the slightest bit, putting in a new thermostat was like pullin teeth on this car) now the temp would go up just fine, but if I idle it would start to over heat. Bleeder screw on top of intake manifold solved my problem. Now its smokin all over the radiator because I let the coolant spill everywhere, but problem fixed. Just have to wait for all of the coolant to burn off so the maxima doesnt look like a hoopty. This thread saved my car. thanks guys.
08-14-2007, 01:25 PM
#56
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 6
Removing air from the cooling system -91Maxi
I was always having problems getting the air out of the radiator/cooling system of my 91 Maxima.
I had tried jacking up the font end, tried inserting a bleeder valve toward the back by the heater hose connects, tried "milking it" at the radiator cap, etc..
The guy down at Checker said there's a contraption at the "performance shop" you can get that works like a "automotive enema bag, that the bubble bleed up thru", those were about 40-50 bucks he thought.
So I came up with this alternative idea and it worked perfectly first try.
It only took about 30 minutes to "manufacture" the first one, maybe it'd only take a guy 10-15, with some "guidense" (sic. :-).
Parts.
1. Old radiator cap. New radiator cap ($8.00).
2. You'll recognize my connecting hose as from a refrig recharge kit. ($0.00).
3. I used part of an aluminum cover from a dead Maxtor HD as a modified clamp to keep the hose from getting crushed (see lower right insert). ($0.00).
4. A threaded brass extension ($2.00).
Build It.
1. Took the old radiator cap and drilled out the top and bottom rivet-like fasteners. (see left insert on pic)
2. I reamed out the center hole to .400"+/-. This was the OD of a piece of brass extension I had laying around. (again see insert section2)
3. Press-fit my brass tube thru the radiator cap parts, including some "washers" I had made. (see left bottom insert)
3.a. Cut out some rubber (tire tube) washers to place between the three primary parts of the radiator cap.
Also put one between the cap and the radiator itself (gotta be careful this one doesn't end up IN the radiator).
4. I slapped cap on the radiator, the internal spring worked as normal. Done.
Use It.
1. Started up the car and let it run for 3-4 minutes with the AC on, coolant started seeping out my line to the bucket.
[In Arizona all we care about is the AC, I haven't used my heater in years! ]
[You'd probably want to open up your heater core by adjusting to Max heat at the dash control.]
2. After about 6-7 minutes the car was plenty hot, needle on "H". (it was 105 degrees outside). Turn off the engine.
3. The engine continues to heat up a bit after it's turned off I guess, cause I kept seeing bubbles coming out thru the coolant in the bucket for several minutes.
4. As the engine and especially the fluids cool, all that stuff starts contracting, creating a vacuum.
Soon the coolant started getting sucked back into the engine.
5. Good thing I had a gallon of water at the ready to pour into the bucket as my coolant disappeared, because another 1/2 gal got sucked in.
6. I repeated steps 1-5 once more, only heating the engine for about 2-3 minutes. More coolant and bubble out, ONLY COOLANT back in, Yeah!
It seems like all I built was basically another overflow tank, like the car already is equipped with? Seems like that should work in the same way. I checked and know there's no leaks in the stock tube or the tank. Maybe something about the position of the bucket being much higher than the overflow tank?
I don't know, but this method worked perfectly first try.
I'd been diddling with this for two days, had trouble with it in the past, and this "got 'er done" in 45 minutes, start to finish.
Hope this is useful to someone else having the same problem :-).
Tw
<BR>
I had tried jacking up the font end, tried inserting a bleeder valve toward the back by the heater hose connects, tried "milking it" at the radiator cap, etc..
The guy down at Checker said there's a contraption at the "performance shop" you can get that works like a "automotive enema bag, that the bubble bleed up thru", those were about 40-50 bucks he thought.
So I came up with this alternative idea and it worked perfectly first try.
It only took about 30 minutes to "manufacture" the first one, maybe it'd only take a guy 10-15, with some "guidense" (sic. :-).
Parts.
1. Old radiator cap. New radiator cap ($8.00).
2. You'll recognize my connecting hose as from a refrig recharge kit. ($0.00).
3. I used part of an aluminum cover from a dead Maxtor HD as a modified clamp to keep the hose from getting crushed (see lower right insert). ($0.00).
4. A threaded brass extension ($2.00).
Build It.
1. Took the old radiator cap and drilled out the top and bottom rivet-like fasteners. (see left insert on pic)
2. I reamed out the center hole to .400"+/-. This was the OD of a piece of brass extension I had laying around. (again see insert section2)
3. Press-fit my brass tube thru the radiator cap parts, including some "washers" I had made. (see left bottom insert)
3.a. Cut out some rubber (tire tube) washers to place between the three primary parts of the radiator cap.
Also put one between the cap and the radiator itself (gotta be careful this one doesn't end up IN the radiator).
4. I slapped cap on the radiator, the internal spring worked as normal. Done.
Use It.
1. Started up the car and let it run for 3-4 minutes with the AC on, coolant started seeping out my line to the bucket.
[In Arizona all we care about is the AC, I haven't used my heater in years! ]
[You'd probably want to open up your heater core by adjusting to Max heat at the dash control.]
2. After about 6-7 minutes the car was plenty hot, needle on "H". (it was 105 degrees outside). Turn off the engine.
3. The engine continues to heat up a bit after it's turned off I guess, cause I kept seeing bubbles coming out thru the coolant in the bucket for several minutes.
4. As the engine and especially the fluids cool, all that stuff starts contracting, creating a vacuum.
Soon the coolant started getting sucked back into the engine.
5. Good thing I had a gallon of water at the ready to pour into the bucket as my coolant disappeared, because another 1/2 gal got sucked in.
6. I repeated steps 1-5 once more, only heating the engine for about 2-3 minutes. More coolant and bubble out, ONLY COOLANT back in, Yeah!
It seems like all I built was basically another overflow tank, like the car already is equipped with? Seems like that should work in the same way. I checked and know there's no leaks in the stock tube or the tank. Maybe something about the position of the bucket being much higher than the overflow tank?
I don't know, but this method worked perfectly first try.
I'd been diddling with this for two days, had trouble with it in the past, and this "got 'er done" in 45 minutes, start to finish.
Hope this is useful to someone else having the same problem :-).
Tw
<BR>
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