maximaboi

iTrader: (1)

ever since I boutht my VE 5 speed it has always been hard to shift the gears and once in a long while it will grind when Im going from 1st into 2nd. when it grinds it will usually do that 2 or 3 more times before it stops. I have found that by pushing the clutch as far down as I can get it then that usually stops it from grinding.

its still very hard to shift into all gears all the time. the guy that I bought the car from said its got a rebuilt transmission and a new clutch. I do beleve him when he said that. I took my car to a transmission shop and told them what was going on. they never looked at my car but just from what I told them he said it sounds like its the clutch slave cylinder and master cylinder. he said that its prob not releasing the clutch fully and thats why its hard for me to shift gears.

I need to get this problem fixed so what do you all think. I dont know a great deal about transmissions so what do you all think? does it shound like it could be something other than the slave and master cylinder? if you think it is that then how hard is it to replace them?

Thanks for your help!

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Sounds like the master or slave cylinder is going out....Most likely the slave cyl.

maximaboi

iTrader: (1)

is this a project that I could take on myself or since I have never done it before should I take it to a transmission shop and have them do it.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

The slave cylinder is super easy to replace...Master cylinder is a little more involved ,but still do'able with regular tools....

maximaboi

iTrader: (1)

awesome! thanks MyGreenMax94

do you know if there are any write-ups on changing the clutch slave and master cylinder?

BTW I got the heat shield the other day. thanks for your help with that

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Slave cylinder:
Just unbolt the hose and cap it off,then the 2 bolts that attach it to the bell housing..put new one on in reverse order and have a friend to help you bleed the air out....

Refer to the autozone repair sticky for the master cylinder...[to much typing ]

maximaboi

iTrader: (1)

lol awesome. thanks for your help!

Grace_Imports

iTrader: (1)

I always recommend replacing the master too if you are going to replace the slave. I've seen too many times people just replace one and then the other fails within a short period of time. The parts are inexpensive. Do both and you'll know it won't be a problem for a while. Neither is too difficult. Get a workshop manual. The factory ones are best but a Haynes from AutoBone will be fine for what you need to do. Good Luck!

subs1000w

i agree do both at the same time also get a SS clutch line there cheap and the old stock line begins to flex alot more and cause problems

if you do it yourself the parts wont cost more than 100$

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Before you go throwing $100 at the problem, try adjusting the master cylinder first. it may just need a bit of adjustment instead of replacement.

it coudl also be a broken throwout bearing, but try adjusting the MC first.

DaWifey's90

iTrader: (3)

go oem on the cylinders...the aftermarket stuff is not neccessarily built to the same specs and the amount of travel can/will be off and ur prob will get worse....been there / done that

maximaboi

iTrader: (1)

how do I ajust the master cylinder?

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

loosen the locknut and adjust the pushrod out...

maxitech

iTrader: (7)

Where can you buy an FSM besides the dealer and how much are they?

subs1000w

EBAY i paid 60 for mine new

Dillbag

iTrader: (4)

Could be due to that pos toyota oil filter on the car. But in all seriousness, when was the last time the fluid was changed?

Yeah, adjusting the MC pushrod is a good idea Matt.

I got my FSM by calling some # the nissan parts guys gave me, it was $60 also.

Maybe just have a buddy help you bleed the clutch hydraulic system. (never hurts and costs one bottle of brake fluid)

valz23

iTrader: (1)

I got one off ebay for $35 shipped! (Buy It Now)

maximaboi

iTrader: (1)

well I was driving on the highway today and I found that I could take my car out of gear without using the clutch I was in 5th gear and it took just a little more effort than normal to take my car out of gear without using the clutch. do you think replacing the clutch slave and master cylinder will stop this? I have never heard of this happening and to be honest I didnt even know it could happen.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Thats normal for all manual trannys...

Grace_Imports

iTrader: (1)

If your throwout bearing is shot, you will hear it when you press the clutch in. If it is "broken" you would know it. I think that if a throwout bearing were to break while driving you would have some major damage going on with the rest of the clutch. I wouldn't adjust anything until you see if either the master or slavecylinder is leaking. If you go adjusting things and it turns out to be a hydraulic issue after all then adjustments will be off when you repair the hydraulics. All you have to do is pull the rubber boot back on the slave and see if it's wet. For the master, look under the dash where the master mounts at. If it is wet back there, then it's bad. It will take you 2 minutes to check both. You don't have to throw $100 at the problem until you do that simple check. That is going to be the most likely culprit.

valz23

iTrader: (1)

Next time when you're riding with your friend (in his car w/him driving), when he goes to pass somebody at 85 mph (make sure that music is playing loud so he can't here the car rev), pull the shifter out of the gear and look away like nothing happend. REAL funny. My best friend used to do this to me back when we were kids.
Oh, almost forgot,this is twice as funny when he's trying to pass an 18 wheeler.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Not necessarily. I've broken a TO bearing before and it would actually run just fine when it was cold. no noises, no vibrations, nothing. once it warmed up, the ears would bend and flex and it would become harder and harder to get in gear and shift.
I finally pulled it out, and here's what I found:
http://blehmco.com/pics/car/drivetra...4/IM000886.JPG
http://blehmco.com/pics/car/drivetra...4/IM000887.JPG
http://blehmco.com/pics/car/drivetra...4/IM000888.JPG
http://blehmco.com/pics/car/drivetra...4/IM000889.JPG

Grace_Imports

iTrader: (1)

I will go back and say that my idea of broken was pieces coming apart etc. I see the damage to that TO and it's a valid point...Thanks for showing the example...but I would still take a couple of minutes to check for hydraulic leaks before touching anything else. I still think that is the most likely culprit not that there can't be another issue going on. Was that TO used on a stiffer pressure plate?

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

that TO was jsut a cheap aftermarket piece. if you look close, you can see the thing was held together by little metal tabs through the back of the case, and the slots around it are what cracked and caused the thing to rip apart.. the clutch plate was an oe-replacement LuK clutch. crap quality, and very soft. it was slipping since the day the tranny shop put it in... I was NOT happy.


As with you, I suggest checking the obvious external places like the master and slave before I suggest pulling the tranny... BUT it can also be the TO bearing....

Grace_Imports

iTrader: (1)

I used an aftermarket clutch on my NX once...within a year it popped a spring out of the disc and would hang it up from releasing but it had noise that went with it. I've also seen that happen on an old Honda once that had an AutoBone clutch. It's funny how the "discounted" parts stores will offer a "lifetime" warranty on the store brands. I think it's worthless if you have to repeat all the labor.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

lifetime warranty = lifetime of part.
big chain stores tend to ask the manufacturer for every shortcut to reduce the price.
that's what makes their rebuilts so terrible

Maxima-4DSC

iTrader: (1)

throw out bearing was replaced when the tranny and clutch were done. *****previous owner*****
if you want my opinion the slave and master need to be done. The car did the same thing for me everyonce in a while. But not as frequent as your telling me.
*****side note******
if anyone comes across a VE 5speed let me know i want to get back in the game again. i was looking at 4th gens but im very unimpressed.....thanks guys !

maximaboi

iTrader: (1)

hey Maxima-4DSC. Im glad to know that the TO bearing was replaced. so you think its the salve and master also. when I get paid Im going to order the slave and master cylinder and replace them.

Wiking

If problem is intermittent, maybe the problem is water condensation in the fluid. Time to time fluid gets hot, water boils, steam doesnt work like fluid but is compressible, 'loose' clutch.

Before get paid, bleed/swap the fluid. Cheap DIY tst.

Maxima-4DSC

iTrader: (1)

it cant hurt fluid is cheap ill agree.....change the fluid jsut to be sure but im thinking its time for the master/slave to get changed after 170+thousand miles....

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

find me a VE A/T to trade

JC93SE

Maximboi:

All this talk about parts and what *could be* wrong and you haven't done the simple things yet... or said anything about doing them.

What happened when you adjusted the clutch pedal pushrod???? If the clutch engages/disengages (grabs/releases) too close to the floor, either it isn't releasing completely even when pedal is floored or (hard to explain) it isn't releasing soon enough (split second) compared to when you're shifting. If the clutch and trans were done like you said, this might not have been adjusted correctly. there's actually a spec to what the pedal should be adjusted to (don't have my TSM right now), but you can feel it out pretty well too. 12mm wrench, flash light: loosen nut, turn rod half a turn- maybe two halfs- so that it is screwing out (you might notice the pedal move up slightly as you do this) As long as you still have good free play when you push on the pedal when it's up... you should be safe. Tighten nut. Remove wrench and flashlight. Not enough? try some more. Too far? go the other way. Don't like it/isn't working? Put it back like it was. Where the clutch grabs will be noticably different after one turn.

You're ready to buy a new clutch master and slave. Are you losing fluid? How's the resovoir? Did you check to see if they are leaking like it was suggested in earlier posts? If you replace the master/slave, you'll end up having to adjust the pedal rod anyway. Sure, you fixed the poblem (maybe) but it cost you more than free.

Don't spend your money before you do the free things- like checking stuff out. these folks here are suggesting stuff, but you have to do the actual diagnosis before you just throw parts (read: money) at the problem.

maximaboi

iTrader: (1)

the fluid level for the clutch is just fine. I dont think its leaking out anywhere because Im at a safe level and it never goes down. Im going to replace the slave and master cylinder and see what happens. if its still hard to shift then I will take it to a shop and let them look at it. I really dont mind putting in a new slave and master cylinder in because they are old and prob should be replaced anyways.

JC93SE

There's alot of "old" stuff on your car. "old" does not necessarily mean "no good"

My Master and slave have 226K on them... work fine. Doesn't mean yours aren't bad, but "old" doesn't mean they need to be replaced. If you replace all of the "old" stuff, you're going to be busy for a while.

Life would be boring if I couldn't be amazed anymore. I'm still amazed that people will spend hours and money instead of five minutes (literally in this case) for free maintaining or checking something easy. Thanks.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

if you're replacing your clutch slave and master, I'd also replace the hose at the same time. kind of like a package deal

NissMax1

I will tell your problem with your car since I had the same problem with mine. You need to take the transmission out and replace the bearing that is inside the the transmission housing and it only take about 4 hour of work with 3 people. There a bearing you can see it when the it's all down. I thought it was the disc but was wrong.