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Flex pipe leakage

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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 11:12 PM
  #1  
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Flex pipe leakage

My 94 maxima began to make big noise this morning, and I found that there is a big hole on the flex pipe tonight after searching here. I still have some questions: I gueess I need to replace the whole Y pipe in order to replace the flex pipe, right? How much is it to have it replaced in a local shop? If I want to DIY, which one I need to order form WPS? Thanks for your help.
Old Feb 28, 2006 | 11:35 PM
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is your 94 a gxe or an SE?

gxe = vg pipe
se= ve pipe

careful replacing it yourself, you might snap a few exhaust studs in the process (then again, a shop might do the same, NOT tell you about it and charges more, pick your poison here I guess.)
Old Mar 1, 2006 | 06:25 AM
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you can have the actual flex pipe replaced, but most shops will charge around $100 or so to do the work.

It is far more beneficial to replace the y-pipe with a warpspeed one and be done with it. Yes, it will cost more, but you not only replace the busted out flex section, but improve performance.
Old Mar 1, 2006 | 06:29 AM
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depends on how much money your looking to spend, when my flex was leeking , i had them cut out the flex and put a new one in, cost me ~$85 the warpspeed Y-pipe is 160 or more dunno if they run that special anymore , i doubt your doing a flex replacement yourself unless you have a lift and a welder available, the y pipe i think you could just jack up the car and undo the 8 or so exhaust studs and just disconnect it and put the new one on wd-40 is a friend with those studs , dont crack`em.
Old Mar 1, 2006 | 07:35 AM
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http://www.warpspeedperformance.com/nissan.htm

this is good stuff. get one.
Old Mar 1, 2006 | 08:40 AM
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heh; when i repaired my flex section, i got worse gas mileage.

shoulda left it alone
Old Mar 1, 2006 | 04:16 PM
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lol did they do it right?!
Old Mar 1, 2006 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by alextothestars
heh; when i repaired my flex section, i got worse gas mileage.

shoulda left it alone
The same thing happened when I had my flex piece replaced!! My mileage went from 23 to 21 mpg (now it's at a solid 18...go figure).

I'm suprised about how cheap the flex pipe repairs were. I payed ~$300 for my repairs...but I'm not sure if they did something different, or what. I should've just bought a new y-pipe to eliminate the flex piece in the first place.
Old Mar 1, 2006 | 07:03 PM
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the "replacement" piece that my maroon max had , had several extra bends in it and a shorter flex
Old Mar 1, 2006 | 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
the "replacement" piece that my maroon max had , had several extra bends in it and a shorter flex
the "bootleg" y-pipe
Old Mar 1, 2006 | 07:19 PM
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I called local shops today. Midas quoted me $130, and Meineke $170 for replacing the flex pipe. Warpspeedperformance.com is weird, I cannot find a link to place an order, and the ebay store doesn't answer my email. I cannot wait too long because of the noice pollution, neither do I want the lower mileage.
Old Mar 1, 2006 | 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by doodoodoo
I called local shops today. Midas quoted me $130, and Meineke $170 for replacing the flex pipe. Warpspeedperformance.com is weird, I cannot find a link to place an order, and the ebay store doesn't answer my email. I cannot wait too long because of the noice pollution, neither do I want the lower mileage.
call their phone number and place the order!
Old Mar 1, 2006 | 09:38 PM
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i swear to god, the best gas mileage i ever got was with a hole in the flex section and a 3 inch filter on the intake tube. everything else stock.
it was quieter with the fix, but i swear i lost some torque and gas mileage. not to mention a lot of attention...haha.

we have a "Thrifty Muffler" here in town and theyre pretty cool. i remember the fix was pretty cheap. not even a hundred i think. they bring you in and show you what the **** is up...theyre actually the ones that informed me that i was missing manifold studs...shoulda brought it there when i test drove the car!
Old Mar 2, 2006 | 09:36 AM
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Leaky flex = lost performance. No two ways about it. I should know, I had to replace my Cattman Y flex about 3 times before saying "F-it" and welding my own custom flex and 4-gen hi flow cat. Standard flanges suck too. Ball joint type is the only way to go

Old Mar 2, 2006 | 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by alextothestars
i swear to god, the best gas mileage i ever got was with a hole in the flex section and a 3 inch filter on the intake tube. everything else stock.
it was quieter with the fix, but i swear i lost some torque and gas mileage. not to mention a lot of attention...haha.

we have a "Thrifty Muffler" here in town and theyre pretty cool. i remember the fix was pretty cheap. not even a hundred i think. they bring you in and show you what the **** is up...theyre actually the ones that informed me that i was missing manifold studs...shoulda brought it there when i test drove the car!
well maybe you thought it felt faster because it soundedl ike a V8??
Old Mar 2, 2006 | 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by disgruntled
is your 94 a gxe or an SE?

gxe = vg pipe
se= ve pipe

careful replacing it yourself, you might snap a few exhaust studs in the process (then again, a shop might do the same, NOT tell you about it and charges more, pick your poison here I guess.)
I went ahead and ordered the Y pipe because I was told the pipe was in stock and ready to ship. I checked the pipe again carefully tonight, I think the biggest problem to replace it is that the studs between cat and flex is really rusty, I will have to destroy them in order to remove the pipe from cat. What should I do for the rusty studs? Thanks
Old Mar 2, 2006 | 09:03 PM
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wd-40 them up < shrug >
Old Mar 3, 2006 | 04:40 PM
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broken flex is so loud! i just got a new flex pipe and it;s much better
Old Mar 4, 2006 | 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Leaky flex = lost performance. No two ways about it. I should know, I had to replace my Cattman Y flex about 3 times before saying "F-it" and welding my own custom flex and 4-gen hi flow cat. Standard flanges suck too. Ball joint type is the only way to go

[IMG]http://img452.imageshack.us/img452/4237/customflex1xg.jpg[IMG]
:green94max:
Old Mar 4, 2006 | 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by MrGone
:green94max:
.
Old Mar 19, 2006 | 01:23 PM
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Help.
I am replacing the two CV boots on my 96 NIssan Quest. The drive axels have been off the car, but I have difficult to disassemble the CV joint. I rent a slide hammer from advanced auto parts, but it doesn't work possibly because I have to use one hand to hold the axle and another one to hammer it. I don't have a vice. The car has 120,000 miles on it and it seems that the axles are original nissan parts (I bought the car at 110,000 miles). I checked the CV joint, it seems that the inner race has a little room to move in the cage, is this normal?
Now I am considering two options:
First, I can have the joint disassembled in a shop if the price is reasonable or I do it myself if I can get tricks to do so from here.
Second choice, I will purchase two remans for $89 each from advanced auto parts or other stores that you recommend.
I am sorry I ask help for a non-maxima car, but it has the same engine as maxima. Your help is highly appreciately.
Old Mar 19, 2006 | 05:02 PM
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just buy 2 brand new ones.
they are cheaper than the remans, and no core hassle
http://internetautomart.com/cvaxles/...t-cv-axle.html
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