would flushing the coolant keep heat warmer while idling?
would flushing the coolant keep heat warmer while idling?
It seems that the air doesn't blow as hot as when the belts are moving while driving. It's like when I am sitting at a stop the heat isn't that warm and then when I start driving and the stuff in the engine is moving and the belts are turning, it heats up. You think I should try flushing the coolant?
sounds like ther eis air in your coolant system. This is what mine does when the coolant gets low (leaky rad) and i get air in it.
Get the front end high off the ground (2 feet approx) by parkingon a big incline or jacking it up.
take off the rad cap and let it run for w while. Keep topping up the coolant. Also if you wanted to flush it at the same time
it will never hurt you any.
Get the front end high off the ground (2 feet approx) by parkingon a big incline or jacking it up.
take off the rad cap and let it run for w while. Keep topping up the coolant. Also if you wanted to flush it at the same time
it will never hurt you any.
also try flushing the system, including the heater core.. you'll be amazed how much junk comes out of the heater core.
try topping it off first and see what that does before dumping the system.. but then again, if you haven't flushed it out in the last couple years it's definitely time to do it.
try topping it off first and see what that does before dumping the system.. but then again, if you haven't flushed it out in the last couple years it's definitely time to do it.
Originally Posted by MrSector9
sounds like ther eis air in your coolant system. This is what mine does when the coolant gets low (leaky rad) and i get air in it.
Get the front end high off the ground (2 feet approx) by parkingon a big incline or jacking it up.
take off the rad cap and let it run for w while. Keep topping up the coolant. Also if you wanted to flush it at the same time
it will never hurt you any.
Get the front end high off the ground (2 feet approx) by parkingon a big incline or jacking it up.
take off the rad cap and let it run for w while. Keep topping up the coolant. Also if you wanted to flush it at the same time
it will never hurt you any.
1. the 50/50 premix is the biggest ripoff on the planet. $7.99 for a gallon of premix (which you need 3 gallons of to completely top off the system),
or one gallon of full-strength for $8.99 and you can run it about 40% (60% water), and it'll be just fine.
2. most race cars- even with iron blocks, and I've run straight water in my track cars for years with no rust issues. just put some water wetter in them and that's all you need. keep the air out and flush the system on a regular basis and it's not a problem..
for a car you never open the hood on, then sure.. fill it with 50/50.. let the engine run hotter, but you never have to think about it.
or one gallon of full-strength for $8.99 and you can run it about 40% (60% water), and it'll be just fine.
2. most race cars- even with iron blocks, and I've run straight water in my track cars for years with no rust issues. just put some water wetter in them and that's all you need. keep the air out and flush the system on a regular basis and it's not a problem..
for a car you never open the hood on, then sure.. fill it with 50/50.. let the engine run hotter, but you never have to think about it.
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
<snip>
2. most race cars- even with iron blocks, and I've run straight water in my track cars for years with no rust issues. just put some water wetter in them and that's all you need. keep the air out and flush the system on a regular basis and it's not a problem..<snip>
2. most race cars- even with iron blocks, and I've run straight water in my track cars for years with no rust issues. just put some water wetter in them and that's all you need. keep the air out and flush the system on a regular basis and it's not a problem..<snip>
and helps prevent electrolytic reactions between copper and aluminum.
i have been running ONLY water in my motor for about 2 weeks now..... today i looked under the hood, and where the overflow is (non ABS car) there is brown gunk all over the overflow, and all IN the overflow..... i also looked into the radiator, and it was a light brown..... is my motor rusting??? on the inside?
Originally Posted by Cliff Clavin
Hey Aron --
just sell the car already...
I think there is a newer Maxima with your name on it out there.
just sell the car already...

I think there is a newer Maxima with your name on it out there.
flushing the coolant
thanks for the info i think i will take my car and get the radiator flushed i changed my thermostat and i elevated the car and let the air out and i got heat for a short period of time but it still blows cold air with the heat on so i will go and get it flushed out good.
flushing the coolant
i get it tuned regularly but I havent had the system flushed since i had the car back in 2003. Actually this car has given me little problems since I had it one previous owner I have had the breaks done, alternator change, battery change, thermostat change and routine oil and tire changes. So far the car still runs like a champ I may need new shocks soon just have to get this heater thing working. I even found the code and redid the keyless entry thanks to this forum.
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tarun900
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
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Dec 20, 2021 06:57 PM




