This is for (InternetAutoMart)
#1
This is for (InternetAutoMart)
#5
Originally Posted by 2k3TitaniumSe
damn...looks like your tire is rubbing your strut.
#6
the lower control arm with ball joint is for the front. He sells the rear assys that are adjustable though I think. It would be cheaper to buy used though. I think I have a set matter of fact...if not I know you can find it in the parts section.
#8
Originally Posted by Duckman540i
It does, only in reverse, the wheel is soo bent & messed up, it will pivot in and out when driving. The whole top of the tire is visible from the wheel well, it sticks out that far. If I go in reverse, the wheel will pop back in to where the tire rests on the strut slightly. You can also see where the back of the rim is grinding the strut down to the silver metal.
the control arms for $62.50 are for the front.
for the rear I have the adjustable links available, IIRC you can actually use on the front and rear of the rear.
#9
Originally Posted by internetautomar
IIRC you can actually use on the front and rear of the rear.
#13
If your wheel rubs on the strut at ANY time, then you've got something else wrong in the rear suspension somewhere. you need more than just those arms..
(The rear strut has a fixed 'axle stub' on the bottom of it, so that the rear wheel does not move in relation to the strut housing. if it does, then you've got a bad wheel bearing or loose axle stub nut, broken strut/housing, or something else equally disgusting. Make sure you fix that as well while you've got all of this apart.
FYI, if you want the car to really handle, you can replace the dead parts with my rear parallel link kit.
(The rear strut has a fixed 'axle stub' on the bottom of it, so that the rear wheel does not move in relation to the strut housing. if it does, then you've got a bad wheel bearing or loose axle stub nut, broken strut/housing, or something else equally disgusting. Make sure you fix that as well while you've got all of this apart.
FYI, if you want the car to really handle, you can replace the dead parts with my rear parallel link kit.
#17
same thing happened to me when i hit a curb doing 50 MPH......it bent those lower arms..... but my wheel didnt lean inwards than outwards like yours.. yes yo have something else wrong with it......something looks broken besides them parallel links
wiggle your wheel hub and see if it moves...
wiggle your wheel hub and see if it moves...
#18
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
If your wheel rubs on the strut at ANY time, then you've got something else wrong in the rear suspension somewhere. you need more than just those arms..
(The rear strut has a fixed 'axle stub' on the bottom of it, so that the rear wheel does not move in relation to the strut housing. if it does, then you've got a bad wheel bearing or loose axle stub nut, broken strut/housing, or something else equally disgusting. Make sure you fix that as well while you've got all of this apart.
FYI, if you want the car to really handle, you can replace the dead parts with my rear parallel link kit.
(The rear strut has a fixed 'axle stub' on the bottom of it, so that the rear wheel does not move in relation to the strut housing. if it does, then you've got a bad wheel bearing or loose axle stub nut, broken strut/housing, or something else equally disgusting. Make sure you fix that as well while you've got all of this apart.
FYI, if you want the car to really handle, you can replace the dead parts with my rear parallel link kit.
#19
For Matt93SE, This shaft on the section of the rear crossmember bent in slightly. Circled in the picture, is that just the bolt that goes through, or is it welded in? When I looked at it, it looks welded, making me think I need to replace this section of the crossmember. True? Is there any way around this? Any help would be great, I need to get my car back on the road. It's been 7 months!
#20
that same peice got bent on my 1992..... i couldnt even get that bolt out.... i had to replace that whole crossmember going all the way accress the car from drivers to pasenger side..... good thing i had a parts car!!!!..... i would suggest you getting one of them if you can get one cheap enough....
P.S. it looks like your car has ABS..... and for it to work correctly, your gonna need that rear crossmember from an ABS maxima also.... i think it would be stupid to go brand new... just go to the junk yard for that
P.S. it looks like your car has ABS..... and for it to work correctly, your gonna need that rear crossmember from an ABS maxima also.... i think it would be stupid to go brand new... just go to the junk yard for that
#21
Originally Posted by Alex_V
It also looks like the rear arm mount is bent. How safe/or hard is that to fix?
bummer man that looks like a clean max...
~Alex
bummer man that looks like a clean max...
~Alex
And A Few Engine Bay Shots. BTW, This Motor Only Has 70K Miles On It!
I've Done Some Polishing MySelf, I Polished Alot Of Misc. Items By Hand. Nothing Too Flashy, Just Cleans Up The Look Alittle.
#23
Originally Posted by vansskaterfreek
that same peice got bent on my 1992..... i couldnt even get that bolt out.... i had to replace that whole crossmember going all the way accress the car from drivers to pasenger side..... good thing i had a parts car!!!!..... i would suggest you getting one of them if you can get one cheap enough....
P.S. it looks like your car has ABS..... and for it to work correctly, your gonna need that rear crossmember from an ABS maxima also.... i think it would be stupid to go brand new... just go to the junk yard for that
P.S. it looks like your car has ABS..... and for it to work correctly, your gonna need that rear crossmember from an ABS maxima also.... i think it would be stupid to go brand new... just go to the junk yard for that
Also, how hard was it to replace that piece, and how long did it take? Thanks
#24
it took me about an hour and a half from start to finish......take the rear wheels off.... since you are replacing the struts (i suppose) take them off also with the calpers....unbolt them bent-up control arms......and that whole crossmember should only have 4 bolts.. i think they are 17MM or 19MM bolts.....you may want to take your exhaust off the hangers in the rear so it is kinda out of the way also..... with the struts take both sides off (only if you are changing them)... all it is just taking about 15 bolts off......
#29
Originally Posted by Duckman540i
Hey Internetautomart, how much is it for your rear adjustable links for the rear, the ones I need?
#30
How much exactly, uncluding shipping to Colorado for Polyurethane ones? I need the two arms that you see in the first picture. They are for the rear passenger side. Thanks. Also I bought a window regulator from your site, how long is the ground shipping usually? My Paypal Payment was cleared on May 5th I believe.
#34
Originally Posted by Duckman540i
How much exactly, uncluding shipping to Colorado for Polyurethane ones? I need the two arms that you see in the first picture. They are for the rear passenger side. Thanks. Also I bought a window regulator from your site, how long is the ground shipping usually? My Paypal Payment was cleared on May 5th I believe.
#35
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Actually the rear x-member and P-bars etc.. are very easy to remove
#36
Originally Posted by internetautomar
they are $45 each, shiping is calculated off of your zip code. you should have gotten the regulator today.
#40
Originally Posted by Duckman540i
Bump..............If I could find out, I want to order them tonight, as well as a few other parts. Thanks