First off, sorry for the post, but i kinda need info quick and i couldnt find anything on google or though the first few pages of the forums.

Im trying to run a power cable from my battery through the firewall to get to my boot. Im trying to do this without completely dismantling the dash.

Is there an easy way to do this or is there something that i can take off to be able to see more of the firewall to get the cable through. Ive tried just pushing it through but it seems to be getting stuck somewhere and wont actually go through

Any help would be awesome

 

there's a rubber grommet that you can drill a hole through. it's located inside the left fender. drill the hole (without destroying the bundle of wires that also run through it) and feed the wire.

 

Thanks for that. made it so much easier than i thought it was going to be

 

if you dont want to risk damaging the wires with a drill; get a coat hanger, cut it and straighten it out, then force the coat hanger through the rubber gromet. After you have done this you simply wrap the wire around the power cable and use some tape then pull the wire through. I did this for my car and it was fairly easy just took a while to actually find a decent gromet to use


//edit good to see another aussie on here

 

A mate came round and actually showed me somewhere even better. Sorta in the middle of the firewall, and it went straight in behind the centre of the dash. made everything nice and neat..

And yes.. its good to see aussie's on the forums.

 

no wonder i've never heard of Perth, Washington

 

yeah or you could just make a hole big enough for the wire and put in a rubber grommet to make sure the wire don't rub threw the insulation. just find a good spot in the fire that has easy access takes some mental measurements and drill it from the inside of the cab by the pedals worked for me only took like a minute

 

Ok, so the sub and all the cables are installed successfully. Thanks for the tips with the grommets aswell.

1 more question, im gonna try to fabricate something to hold the amp and sub securely in the boot. Anyone got tips for this?

 

the sky's the limit. if you want an easy solution, you could secure the box to a larger particle board base with some L brackets. what guage wire did you use? would you mind posting a picture of where you fed it through the firewall? that area i suggested is a pretty tight squeeze for fitting a low ga. wire.

 

I personally like Chris' way (Cliff Clavin) he secured it to the metal behind the rear seat.
you may or may not have that bar, as NZ models had a fold down rear seat.

My Sub just sat in the trunk with no problems.
Well it did have a problem, it doesn't work

 

I have that metal bracket, didnt think of using that
So many ideas now


I'm at work at the moment so i will take pics when i get home or tomorrow when there is light.

 

Here is what Internetautomart was talking about:



It wasn't quite completed when I took that picture.

I just removed the back seat, then used four "L" brackets and two "U" brackets. At the hardware store, it took me a few minutes to find a size U bracket that would fit through the holes in a the L brackets. Once you put the seat back, it is extremely difficult to access.

I have had this set up for quite a while now and it has done well. The metal bar across the back has become a little bit twisted in the spots where the brackets are, but it's behind the seat and I am sure I could get another one at a boneyard for a couple bucks.

Another thing is you have to eliminate the back portion of trunk board (the carpeted part) or cut your current board to slide over your box and not catch on the brackets. I slid my board that goes between the armrest back, but didn't replace the large one. Now you can see the back of the seat and the metal. Doesn't bug me, as I don't use the trunk.

This picture doesn't show it too well, but I have taken out all of the plastic stuff and only left the bottom board and carpet.

 

I was thinking of something along those lines. I plan on fabricating a box to cover the rear section of the trunk so the sub and amp are enclosed.

Thanks for those photos though, they should be helpful


Gotta love the org

 

yup i gotta do mine now, i got some infinitys, n my bmw lights, is there a thred in here for that

 

If you're referring to the BMW headlight conversion, here is a good webpage on how to do it. Its a page I found the link to in a thread on here. So hope this helps. http://www.angelfire.com/trek/tko/bmw_conversion/

Also, here is a thread about it.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=481352

 

Thanks Klown Phreak, i angel eyes so its gonna look sick, ill post pics when i instal em

 

Hey guys,

Looking for some advice...

I recently replaced my deck and rear speakers. Everything is working but the rear speakers. From what I gather the problem is rear speakers has there own amps(please correct me if i'm wrong). And I have to some how disable the amps in order for the rear speakers to work with the new deck. Because if I hook the Stock HU back up the rear speakers work fine. My question is how do i disable or remove the amps? this is a '94 mamima not a bose system. The rear speakers that I took out were clarions.

Cheers

 

when i installed my subs i drilled through the grommet like above said. Although they blew a few monthes later

 

To get the rear speakers to work iirc, you have to wire up the blue accessory wire directly to the headunit from the clarion amp in your boot (the round one).

 

bypass your amps. simply chop the harness of each amp, find the speaker leads, and connect to the new speaks. there are some harness adapters available if you don't want to splice into the stock wiring. my guess is the amp wire was not connected at the head unit so the amps are not turning on. but you don't want to use the amps between your new head unit and speakers anyway. they are meant to be used with the stock hu and stock speakers. your new head unit is has an amplifier built in, stock doesn't.

 

Ok. so my sub and amp are in bodge pro styles at the moment, (pics coming soon) but now i have a new problem.. there looks like there is a weight in the boot. Can i take this out, or does it serve a special purpose?

 

that heavy cylinder thingy in the trunk? people have taken it out without any issues.

 

awesome.. that comes out then. to late to do it now though.

also. how hard is it to recover the boot, like replace all the factory grey carpet and replace it with something else, so that everything matches.

 

i cnat put new threads only posts says my acount might be unactived. and just made a new one and it says the same

 

To be able to create threads, you need a certain number of posts, 15 iirc.

 

Make a new one, keep trying till it works.

 

Here's some pics of how I added subs to my 92 GXE. rather than building a full custom box, I used a truck speaker box (so that I still have usable trunk space) and secured that to the back seat using screws and washers, going thru existing holes on the metal piece behind the seat. I removed that heavy black cylinder thing, and didn't notice any change in driving. I mounted the amp on the back of the speaker box, then framed out a door with hinges and a key lock, so that I can get to the wires if I needed to. holes in the top of the door were for the tweeter and airtube on the speakerbox. Nice clean look, sounds great, and doesn't take up much of the trunk.

 

How did you guys get your rear seat out? Im going to do the thing like cliff clavin but i cannot get my rear seat out. Also im going to cut that carpet to fit.

 

I just got a couple bungee cords and strapped the box to the bar

 

Jaydigital if you want your subs to pound alot harder reverse then have them facing the trunk instead of the cabin. ATM in my 90 max I am running 2 12" Kicker Solabarics L7s with a Rockford Fosgate 1800watt amp in trunk and got a 800watt Rockford amp powering 2 10" EVs that are built into the rear dash where the original speakers were located with 2 3" Bullets that run off the deck itself. I dont run any of the factory speakers at all the only thing I plan to do is 2 eclipse satelites molded into the inner window posts between the front and rear doors. Also got to get a capacitor cause battery drain is harsh atm and when I am about at 1/2 volume second base hits say good bye to lights they get so dim you can barly see lol. ATM my box is just mounted to the floor of the trunk so it dont rock around and the amp is mounted to the backside of the box. The 800watt amp is mounted to the rear deck between the bullets. Sounds good still working out some rattles though had to dynamat almost the entire trunk rubber matted the lisence plates atm I am trying to get a better alternative for a sun roof cause the henges rattle when it is closed and when it is opened the glass rattles. Dashboard has multiple spots layered with silicone on the inside to stop things from ratteling there.

I will try and get some pictures in a week or so when I get the car back from the shop Injector O Rings are shot and the number 2 injector went bad so replacing all of them atm. Anyone else injector harness corode to the point of no repair?

 

another alternative is put the box on a slider so when trunk is empty have speakers facing trunk and move as close to rear bumper as possible the less space the more kick back for the sound and with it beating off the back of the seat it is just absorbing so much that you loose alot mine is just mounted close to the rear bumper since I could care less about trunk space thats what AAA is for if I get a flat lol.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/forumdispla...aysprune=&f=25

PW'ing for 15 is

 

there are two clips under the seat cushion that holds the seat to the car. lift up the seat a little but and you will see them. to rmove the bottom...lift up HARD at these points the the seat bottom will come out. it will be quite hard the first few times, but will get easier each time you remove the seat for whatever reason. as for the seat back, there are four 10mm bolts iirc that holds it in. two behind the arm rest and one on each bottom corner (you will see after you remove the seat bottom)

after you remove those bolts, again lift straight up. there are four clips that will need to be popped to release the back.

 

eh, why would you want your subs to fire that close to a panel...

there is nothing wrong with aiming the sub into the rear seat. you just get a different bass response.

 

if you participate in competition audio and such you get the most bump from facing the trunk. (Thats the saying at the shows cheesy yes true yes) I have had multiple setups and tried multiple things and facing close to the rear panel gives you easily about 3-4more decibles facing the rear bump period will jump it about 10-15 due to it not being fully absorbed. The whole thing is how the sound waves travel closer to the rear panel the sound waves stay closer to gether for a long period of time then spread. Facing the rear seat the sound wave is just absorbed and to far in the trunk the sound wave spreads to soon for it to have it's max potential. Not sure how to better describe but if you look around on the net you will understand what I mean.

The system I had befor the car was totaled had 4 12" Earthquakes with 3 2000 watt Earthquake amps no highs or mids was strickly a competition banger till it burnt to the ground.

 

my trunk setup wasn't for competition, just to give a little more bass that the factory setup was lacking. it's loud enough to **** off the car next to me, and I can still fit 3 golf bags in the trunk and not worry about the amp gettin hot and touching something. And it's a small enough setup that there's no need for a capacitor, and my headlights don't dim.

The car's for sale now, all my money is goin into my new(er) Max.

 

Very nice guys. i have a 94 maxima, i got the subwoofer and amp already. i'm getting a new deck, amp wire and 2 new front door speakers.
my question is:

what size speaker is needed to replace 94 bose front door speakers.
and how did u run the power wire from the battery to the car? i looked under the hood twice and no idea where to run it through, do i need to drill under the car?

Thanks!

 

Spend $25 and donate then do a couple of searches and the answers will be apparent

 

Since when did $20 become $25?

 

since more money means better servers