Does enyone know if there iss a way to see if auto tranny valve boddy is clogged or anything of that matter. MY tranny is shot and before getting a new one, i decided to see if VB could be clogged. (Car doesn't move in any position).

I am just looking for any info on VB for 93 max...

Thanks

 

I would reconsider this statement.

 

And why so?

 

I'm not a big fan of 3rd gen auto trannies. Although I hear that the VE auto is built better









...but not much better.

 

i don't care. got the car for free, need to fix tranny to have a spare commute car. It is a VE though.

anyone take VB apart?

 

it's the same tranny as the 4th and 5th gen as far as technical specs go.
the difference is in how the tranny bolts to the engine.

 

[QUOTE=nicks79]i don't care. got the car for free, need to fix tranny to have a spare commute car. It is a VE though. ( car wont move in gears)
did you read my reply thinking its the torque converter? when you first posted this ?do you hear it still spinning in the bellhousing after someone shuts off the motor?

 

[QUOTE=maximagician]
What are you trying to say here? You don't have any prior replies in this thread, what are you talking about? Did not listen to torque converter, what will that tell me?

 

maximagician was not refering to any posts in this thread, he had asked if you had followed any of the suggestions given when you first posted this problem - i.e. in this thread

i'd have to 2nd the torque convertor possiblity. vb's and oil pumps usually come into play when you're dealing with the character of the shift. from everything you've described there seems no reason to suspect any mechanical failure internal to the trans itself. you've described no noise and mentioned that park engages - 2 good signs.

i'm surprised the obvious hasn't been mentioned yet. have you dropped the pan to look for debris and have you checked the level and quality of the trans fluid - step one in diag'ing and auto trans.

what happens when you race the engine (on or off the jacks) while the trans is in gear?

 

When I dropped the pan, the fluid was little milky.. and there were some debris in there, seemed like collapsed gasket or something, not much of metal stuff but some shawings around the magnets..

When the car on jack stands and engine is revved up, the wheels will start spinning slightly, but not when on the ground. No noise is heard.. I tested Resistance across the solenoinds, seems correct..

I guess it could be a torque c. Do they usually fail????
Thanks

 

I got my VG auto as a non moving but running car, exact same symtoms as you and it had a stripped TC. That should be your problem.

~Alex

 

it's not so much a failure as just being worn out...the fins will bend over time sometimes the sprag fails though - so yeah it might be a failure...

but to answer your ? - yes, it is not uncommon for T/C's to require replacement - as do most components with finely balanced moving parts that are exposed to a combination of liquid and air...failed welds, corrosion, overstressed springs, fatigued fins and so on...

 

listen around the bell housing when someone shuts the car off
both times i ran into stripped converters (a max and a stanza)
i could hear it spinning \kinda scrapping 1-2 seconds after shutting the car off the input shaft is stronger metal so it strips the input splines in the converter instead of the trans shaft it spins wheels a little off the ground
because its still got a little teeth left and bounces a little internally

 

this car has 179k miles on original tranny, so that could be it.. I am going to put VB back cause it seems OK, resitance is OK across all solenoids.. Does the TC comes off easily once tranny is dropped? Or you have to take tranny apart?
Thanks all

By the way, how heavy is auto tranny? Can two people drop it down with the third person supporting with the rop from the top????

 

Once the tranny is out, the torque converter just slides out of the bellhousing, no tranny disassembly required. Be prepared for some fluid to spill out as the torque converter holds a few quarts. Pour some fresh fluid in the new converter before you install it. When you slide the new one in, make sure it seats completly in the tranny. It may take a little fiddling to get it in. It has to be in far enough not to contact the drive plate on the engine when you install the tranny.
As far as getting it out and putting it back in, get hold of a transmission jack or at least a decent sized floor jack. It is possible for one person to pick one up, but it is very heavy and you want something solid holding it while you jockey it around during removal and installation.

 

once u get the conv. out drain the juice and use a light and tilt it to look carefully at the teeth in side (i think theres 2 or 3 sets in there)
if it is a bad converter you might want new seals (2 axle seals(most replace these),input shaft seal(most re use),more importantly,there is a little o-ring on the input shaft called "lock up o-ring" its pricey because its lathe cut they told me and a bad one will make it slip in and out of lockup(highest gear for fuel economy)like 200 rpms up and down when cruising like 60-65

 

Yea...I have to agree. I work with my ole man (transmission specialist) and it happens all the time with maxima's. In fact mine had the same problem. Neway drop the tranny, remove all the transmission fluild and flush out the lines. That way u won't have to drop the tranny in the next few months because it WILL give out if u don't. Also, make sure check that it is the t/c because even though these transmissions are easy to drop...u don't want to do it again when u just had it out lol. Good luck!

 

May bad...I just noticed that u said that u had some milky tranny fluid. If it truly is milky (like white) u might want to consider getting an external cooler for that tranny because cooler (which is inside the radiator) that cools the transmission fluid is gone. Either that or u can change the radiator or get it fixed. Either way something needs to be done about that.

 

What do you mean " make sure its TC".. Could it be the pump? Since I don't want to take it apart, how can I check that its TC? Can you take TC apart and see the damage there?

The fluid wasn't white, but it wasn't anywhere neat to what the new reddish looks like. Its been neglected for a while. Maybe if I take care of it, it'll last for at least a year...

Also, how can flush the lines??? can i just blow it out with compressed air once its out?

 

When u get the t/c out drain it really good(turn over and let be for a while). Then shake it and if u hear a loud knocking/rambling type sound then u need to change it. Also u could look into it and see if the "gears" have teeth missing. If either of these happening u need to replace it.

With regards to the tranny lines...just about any auto shop should have the flush. Just ask or look for cooler line flush, it comes in a can and a hose attached to it. Then just spray it into either of the 2 tranny lines. Spray a good amount or preferably until it comes out the opposite line. Then u can use the air compressor to blow it out.

In case u aren't sure....the tranny lines are 2 relatively small lines that run from the radiator to the tranny. Just follow them from the radiator if u are sure. They will either be at the bottom or the side of the radiator.

If u need nething else let me know. Good luck!

 

So i dropped the tranny. Sucker is heavy.
Found no fluid at all inside TC. nothing is clicking in there if I shake it. But here is the problem. Look at pics. Sprockets inside oil pump inner gear are busted.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/nicks7...?.dir=/193fre2

So i dunno iif I can find the whole pump assembly. New one from dealer I bet is around $300-400.

Also, some stuff is pealing off of low and reverse brake plates. I asssume those can be replaced since they are wear and tear items.

Should I just go get used tranny or is this fixable. I know if I get oil pump, its easy but I also want to replace those break bands..

Thanks..

 

go used. I can probably get you a rebuilt pump and the friction plates but it's just easier to swap in a used unit.