I was taking an exit off the freeway, and i noticed a loss of power. My idle then dropped to about 500rpm at the light. Then when I was accelerating I noticed an extreme lack of power, my foot was all the way down, rpm was around 3500 and i was only going 50 mph. I eased off, and then after a few seconds the car just shut off. Cranks but wont start. I had to get it towed home.

-Timing belt is ok, I removed the cover and checked it out. I also had someone turn the key, and I seen the t belt, along with all the other belts turn.
-The spark plugs are wet with fuel, and my tank is half full. Also I can hear the fuel pump "hiss" when I turn the key to the on position, and also it smells like gas when I crank alot.Im pretty sure fuel pump is ok.
-I removed #1 plug, attacthed to wire, and touched ground. Cranked and NO SPARK!

I have an 89, so today I swapped over a bunch of parts: distributor, distributor cap and rotor, ignition coil, and IACV valve. Still same thing, crank but no start. I must note that the cranking sounds a little faster, and not as deep (sounds "thinner"), than normal cranking..(say if i ran out of gas or remove the fuel pump fuse and cranked)

I checked for codes, Im getting 55 (all good), and I checked all the under-dash fuses.

Any ideas appreciated, I can swap over parts from my 89 to help diagnose the problem. Thanks

 

Check all you're fuses/fusible links/relays...

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/5

 

I swapped over the ENG CONTR relay, and still same thing. I checked all the underhood fuses, they are all ok..
Anyone know how to upload a sound clip?

 

i'd try the ignition coil next..

nvm, i'm blind.

 

I already swapped that over..
Heres a clip of how it sounds:
http://media.putfile.com/Engine-Cran...tart-90-Maxima

 

You may try putting a fresh spark plug in and checking if it sparks. If they're too wet or dirty they won't spark most of the time.

May also check the compression... it almost sounds like its cranking without the plugs in it.

 

You sure the stuff you swapped over is good?

 

maybe it sounds dumb, but how is your battery/alternator

 

Did you not check to see if there is spark from the plug wires? Ran into this recently. Is the rotor turning inside distributor? Do you have another distributor to try? If you haven't guessed, just trying to track the spark upstream back to the coil. Have you checked to see if the coil is getting a signal? If I recall, the crank position sensor is a part of the distributor, telling coil when to fire.

I second to check compression. You can get a simple tester at Harbor Freight for $10.

 

Is the engine turning over or is the starter just spinning and not engaging? I can't tell from the sound clip, but it does sound very fast.

 

check your timing chain cover.... your chain may have broken..... i know when the belts on the VG break, your motor will spin prety fast....it sounds like a quad.....

 

I already removed the timing belt cover, and the belt is ok. When I crank, the timing belt DOES rotate, and so does the crankshaft pulley..The rotor is also turning.. So the engine IS turning over.
I already swapped over the distributor cap and rotor, ignition coil, and distributor. The cap, rotor and coil were new (i had new ones laying around) and the distributor was from my 89.
I will do a compression test.. If I get bad compression that means engine is toast right?? I dont see how that could have happened, but ill check compression.
How do I "trace the spark back"?? I already checked ECU and im getting all good 55.

 

What I'm talking about in "tracking" is to just go from checking (no replacing) one thing to another until you find the source of the failure. Example, if plugs not firing, check if you have fire where the plug/wire meet. If you don't have fire at end of plug wire, then you see if you have spark at distributor. If non there, you see if coil is fireing. If not, then you see if coil is getting a signal or even power to fire. So on.

I hear you swapping stuff out, but you can't just throw parts at the problem. If the engine is spinning that fast, sounds like no compression; as mentioned before. Good luck!

 

Well if he saw the belt is in one peice, what else can cause zero compression?

 

Timing belt skipping a tooth, woodruff key breaking, tensioner breaking/losing tension, extreme but the cam could even break causing it, things like that.

 

if the timing belt skipped a tooth, ^^^^ etc., would'nt i still get spark?
Im gonna do compression test tomorrow morning.

 

I don't know how it works for skipping teeth, but when my belt broke, I only got spark on certain ignition wires. Reason being, something about the distributor being stuck in a certain position that caused only a portion of the wires to spark. If you havn't checked all of them, it couldn't hurt to do so.

 

Did a compression test yesterday.. Got 0 on all 6 cylinders... The t.belt still has tension. But I guess the engine is toast. Timing belt and tesioner was changed 30k ago.

 

if you are getting 0 compression... you have to be off timing on your belt..... because the valves and cylinders arent working together.......you also may have bent at least one valve in each cylinder... that WILL cause no compression......my guess is that your belt jumped a tooth and your motor is ****ED!

 

what about a broken cam shaft(s)?

My buddy wasnt getting any compression on 3 and 4 of his SR20DE, and after popping off the valve cover we noticed that the cam shaft broke next to the timing chain sprocket. The thing would turn over and the timing belt did turn both cam shafts, but only one was really turning.

But yeah, if that did happen then your valves got to know your piston heads REAL well and your motor is shot.

 

Why would the engine be "shot?" Pull heads, replace valves. Inspect pistons for damage, reassemble...the end?

 

because it costs more to fix it than replace it

 

Guess it's all in perspective. I suppose it depends on how great the engine was to begin with. If I had a good reliable engine to start with, I'd fix. If it was using oil/smoking, I'd replace engine.

 

Thats what I was thinking. I have babied this engine. Other than changing the oil every 3k w/Mobil 1 filter and penzoil (which i dont think matters anymore), i changed all the exhaust studs, took off the intake manifold, and cleaned it well when i changed injector about 5k ago. It currently leaks NO oil.
I could prolly get a JDM for around 400 with all the distributors here, but how much would just heads cost?? And would I only need to remove the heads and put the new ones on?? is it that easy??

 

If you can do all work yourself, then that's 1/2 the battle and cost right there. However, the gaskets will cost. You will need head gaskets (about $54 each) plus lower intake manifold gasket, both upper intake manifold gaskets, and two exhuast manifold gaskets. I think courtesy has a head gasket kit (with all upper gaskets too) for about $300. However, you need to add about $7 per intake valve and about $14 for each exhaust valve that may be damaged. So, you may be looking at around $400. But, again if you know the engine, fixing it may be better than adopting other problems with an engine you know nothing about. And I suggest you do a BBB check on any company you might buy an engine from. I was screwed by Midwest Engines on my JDM VG30ET, it had low compression, rust throughout engine, and a destroyed water pump. All on an engine having "guarenteed under 30k miles." They refused to send me another engine.

 

That sucks.. Did you sue?

 

No, after all the difficulty I had, I just kept the engine and decided to do a complete rebuild on it to have a "0" miles engine. Recently completed and in my '89 max. I did file a report with BBB. That's when I found out the BBB has no "power" other than documenting reports from those who complain. Midwest argued that the VG30ET was never designed to fit into a Maxima and is part why they wouldn't replace. As we know, this is BS and the issue was not of fitment or a refund. I wanted another engine. Then they lied some more about how they sent me a new water pump (aftermarket and wrong one mind you) as well as sending me new valves, which I never saw. They said they went "above and beyond" to make me happy. They originally agreed to send me a new engine. What it was is that he guy I spoke to on the phone was a jerk and I told him I was documenting what he was telling me. Then he goes bezerk. I knew then they were dishonest and crooks if they have a problem with people keeping track of what they are being told and promised. The guy then stated Midwest would not send a new engine. I didn't have the money to do a suit for something that would be tied up for years and would likely cause me to go out of state to do so. DO NOT USE MIDWEST ENGINES!

 

Sorry to hear that.. Scum bags My friend is buying a Turbo II engine for his 2nd gen RX7 from this place located in NY. Guess I'll have to BBB them.. Hope he doesn't get a dud.