Both sides tore open a couple weeks ago and now all the grease has flown out all over my 2k rims and wheel well. I called my mechanic and he quoted me almost $500 to replace the shafts and the joints. I DONT have that much money for a repair like that. Do you think that 500 is a good quote? I was thinking I could probably just reboot the joints and run them that way for a while, but he told me that the damage has already been done to the joints and that they would need to be replaced. I also have ABS on my 91 so that would jack the price up a lot. Any suggestions on what to do in this situation would be great. I dont mind paying like $200 or a little more, but $500 is way too much. I am also thinking about doint the job myself, but it seems really greasy in there! Thanks people.
Clark

 

I just had mine done this week. The CV joints cost me around 300$ for both sides. I am not certain about the exact price because they did an alignment and replaced all lower control arm bushings, all for 460$.
CV joints are like 300$. 500$ is too much I think. The dealer quoted me over a 1,000$ for that same stuff plus a few other things.

Mine did not rip, but what I had was a lot of clicking noise when making sharp turns.

hope this helps any...

 

If the joints aren't making a clicking noise, then they're still fine to just put new boots on and go. it's not a difficult job, if you know what you're doing.
You can get the boots for about $12-15 each from most parts stores. you'll need 2 inner and 2 outer boots. also be sure to replace the axle seals on the tranny when you do this. if not, you get to tear it all down again when the tranny starts gushing fluid out of a ruined seal.

I pulled both my axles and rebuilt them in about 4 hours.
remember to drain your tranny fluid first! the rest of the directions are in the box with the boot replacement kits. they'll come with all the metal bands, new clips, and grease you'll need to do the job. at least mine did.

As for having it done, $500 sounds close.. a little pricey, but not too bad. $150 each for axles and $200 for a few hours of labor. (then again, a good mechanic with a lift should be able to do this job in 203 hours easily)

and for MORe instructions and info, check my website FAQ at: http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/faq...t%20change.txt

 

mine had to be replaced this week too. i got them fixed at firestone for about $350

 

My right boot was turn something like two years ago. It was one of those things were you take it to a shop to get some tires and they try to find as many things as possible to replac$$$ At anyrate I got the tires and didn't bother with the boot. Needles to say I have gone on to a new set of tires and am still using the same CV joint with out a problem. This is close to 40,000 miles later. Probably not a good idea to let something like that go for so long but your mechanic telling you that the thing is going to fall apart the next time you turn the key is BS. I talked to the shop guys and they said they could either replace the boot for close to 90 bucks (most of that was laber) or I could replace the whole unit for around 150 bucks. I choose to drive it until it dies and then fix it. Needless to say I'm still waiting for the joint to go. It's not clicking yet but there is a little bit of squealing...

 

Do you wait for your check engine light to come on before checking your oil too?

do you wait until your brake pads wear completely past the wear indicator and into the metal backing plate?

how about you just never change the oil and wait till the engine blows up, THEN replace the stuff you broke.

that's about as smart as letting a CV joint go that long. it can do a lot more damage than just one axle if that thing ever breaks or falls apart on you. been there, done that.

 

Thats actually a good point when you put it that way. Well I do take good care of my Max (at least as much as I can afford to.) From the information that I had at the time I was told that things would be okay until the joint started clicking and making some bad noises. He said it wouldn't make much of a difference if I did preventive maintence or replaced it when it starts to go bad. I prefer to spend the extra couple bucks and get a new joint then to spend money for them to replace the boot. So when the joint starts to go south... (and I'm still waiting for that to happen.) Then it will get moved up on the priority list. Right now theres a priority to get some money put away for the future because those dumb people in washington don't know how to balance a check book and are going to bankrupt Social Security before I get to touch it. Republican or Demecrat it doesn't matter there all spending money like it was growing like weeds. I wish I could run my check book like they do the country and then when I'm not happy with my pay check I'll go ahead and raise my salery without asking my boss. (Heh, Heh, it's only fair isn't it?)

Anyway sorry for the long speel there, from reading your post I think I'll go get my joint checked out again seeing as how it has been over 40,000 miles.

 

At Firestone, replaced yesterday. I can give you the exact parts and labor cost if you need it when I get home.

 

I think Im gonna go with matt's quickboot route I think that as long as I can get the car up high enough. I will have to study the area first befor I begin working on it.

I wouldnt mind seeing the parts and labor costs on your repair...is that both sides or just one?

NYCe, is $460 for the complete job you decribed?

Wow didnt realize so many other people had this problem.
Grease everywhere! yuk!

 

it was for both
Labor 126.00
Parts 199.90
Subtotal 325.90
Shop Supplies 7.56
Tax 21.67(6.5%)
Total 355.13
Sorry I misqouted myself earlier.

 

Joints or just boots?

 

for the entire job EVERYTHING.
It was a pretty cheap job compared to what others wanted to charge, and I tohught they would be the most expensive.

 

I just replaced my boots last week, it cost $15 per boot and theres a retaining clip insde the cv joint that should be replaced when you pull the cv joint off. My joints were fine so I kept them but I cleaned and repacked them. Anyway the whole job took about 5 hours with air tools and replacing the ball joints at the same time. The only thing is getting the cv joints on and off the axle with them still in the car is a pain in the rear, so be warned!