need some help . . . . . asap
#1
need some help . . . . . asap
hey guys ,.. please help me out some..im a 5th gen owner, but my roomate just picked up a 93' 3rd gen auto, and wants to bring it to minike or some random car pllace for help ....smooth running car excpt for the idle , . . . at a stop light for example.. the car wont hold an idle and it sputters and has died a few times,.. and there isnt really a difference between Park-Drive-Reverse-Neu also theres no indicator lights or anything out of the ordinary
i dont know about these engines,.. but is there just like an AF tuning screw? ,.. or what could it be ,.. any direction you guys could point me in would help alot,... thanks in advance
i dont know about these engines,.. but is there just like an AF tuning screw? ,.. or what could it be ,.. any direction you guys could point me in would help alot,... thanks in advance
#3
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If its not any of that it could be a bad coolant sensor or maf. Most likely a bad coolant sensor, or even an air bubble.
To get rid of the air bubble in the coolant system you have to jack the front of the car up really high, with the radiator cap off. Start the car and run the heat on full. Top off as needed.
~Alex
To get rid of the air bubble in the coolant system you have to jack the front of the car up really high, with the radiator cap off. Start the car and run the heat on full. Top off as needed.
~Alex
#6
I highly suggest taking it to a competent private (non-dealer) shop that specializes in Nissans.
Issues like this can be a real PITA to figure out, and the dealer will solve it by just throwing parts (YOUR MONEY) at it until it runs fine.
It could be a vacuum line, bad IACV, corroded wiring, all kinds of things.
Issues like this can be a real PITA to figure out, and the dealer will solve it by just throwing parts (YOUR MONEY) at it until it runs fine.
It could be a vacuum line, bad IACV, corroded wiring, all kinds of things.
#8
Bad vacuum leak may be the culprit! These cars are old, and sometimes the hoses are cracked and leak. This may very well be the cause! Easiest way to diagnose this is to simply look at the hoses, and if they look questionable, spray some starting fluid on them and see if that changes the engine rpm.
Idle control screw seems likely, as well as the ECU screw. Make sure the ECU screw is turned over all the way, or it will cause the car to die.
Also check the resistance on those fuel injectors. If you notice it is missing at all, this may also be a reason why. Just check the resistance on them (11-14ohms). Again, a very cheap and easy thing to check.
These are the three cheapest...and easiest things to check first!
Idle control screw seems likely, as well as the ECU screw. Make sure the ECU screw is turned over all the way, or it will cause the car to die.
Also check the resistance on those fuel injectors. If you notice it is missing at all, this may also be a reason why. Just check the resistance on them (11-14ohms). Again, a very cheap and easy thing to check.
These are the three cheapest...and easiest things to check first!
#9
Originally Posted by Wolf-Strong
Idle control screw seems likely, as well as the ECU screw. Make sure the ECU screw is turned over all the way, or it will cause the car to die.
#10
Originally Posted by capedcadaver
Isn't the idle screw supposed to be left alone unless you're sure that nothing else is causing the problem. I know on old carbuerted cars you're supposed to set the idle once and then do all your other adjustments, because if you adjust the idle again it throws everything else off (and you have to start all over)... but maybe the ROEs are a bit different in fuel injected cars.
If the IACV has never been cleaned, it may be carbonised. Opening up the idle air screw and finding a difference in idle will give you an indication that you need to clean the IACV. a) this is free to do B) it takes all of 10 mins including cleaning the IACV iof you only take out the stepper motor and valve (3 screws).
#11
Where is the Idle Air Screw on the VE?
Mine idles at 1300 when warmed and occasionally dies at a stoplight (or stumbles) on acceleration. I've replaced the vacuum lines, O2 sensor, PCV, fuel pump relay, cleaned MAFS/EGR, Seafoamed, and taped my coils. No codes on ECU.
Mine idles at 1300 when warmed and occasionally dies at a stoplight (or stumbles) on acceleration. I've replaced the vacuum lines, O2 sensor, PCV, fuel pump relay, cleaned MAFS/EGR, Seafoamed, and taped my coils. No codes on ECU.
#12
Originally Posted by ghostmax
Where is the Idle Air Screw on the VE?
Mine idles at 1300 when warmed and occasionally dies at a stoplight (or stumbles) on acceleration. I've replaced the vacuum lines, O2 sensor, PCV, fuel pump relay, cleaned MAFS/EGR, Seafoamed, and taped my coils. No codes on ECU.
Mine idles at 1300 when warmed and occasionally dies at a stoplight (or stumbles) on acceleration. I've replaced the vacuum lines, O2 sensor, PCV, fuel pump relay, cleaned MAFS/EGR, Seafoamed, and taped my coils. No codes on ECU.
#13
Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
Try cleaning the iacv[idle air control valve] and the throttle body with throttle body cleaner...If this doesn't help,i would suspect a bad iacv...
sounds likea good troubleshoot.. but i know where the TB is but where is the iacv...sorry about the noob-like ? but im not familiar with these engines.. thanks guys
#14
Originally Posted by mist max2000
sounds likea good troubleshoot.. but i know where the TB is but where is the iacv...sorry about the noob-like ? but im not familiar with these engines.. thanks guys
The vg iacv...
The ve iacv...It is located directly under the throttle body...
#15
Just pulled it apart and cleaned it. My idle didn't change. I also tried the screw but to no avail. I'm going to drive it around a bit longer to see if the ECU adjusts. My main concern is the stalling. I think I might just buy 3 front coils and call it a day.
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