Replacing rack and pinion...what additional parts do I need?

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May 7, 2007 | 06:32 AM
  #1  
Hi Everyone:

It looks like my steering rack is leaking, and needs to be replaced. My mechanic wants $800+ to do the job. I looked around and can get the rack and pinion part for around $200, so I think I'll do it myself. I have the FSM, but I've never done this particular job before.

Do I need any other parts to get this replacement done? Any bushings or bleeding kits or anything? Any tips from someone who's done this before?

Thanks,
Matt
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May 7, 2007 | 06:40 AM
  #2  
the gaskets theres like 2 and if it doesnt come with boots then boots but i think most of them do now. some come with tierod ends and some dont. i wouldnt use the old.
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May 7, 2007 | 06:53 AM
  #3  
get new rack mounting bushings and new outer tie rods while you are at it.
it'll add about $40 in parts cost now and save time later.
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May 7, 2007 | 06:57 AM
  #4  
Are the boots the same as the bushings?

Quote: the gaskets theres like 2 and if it doesnt come with boots then boots but i think most of them do now. some come with tierod ends and some dont. i wouldnt use the old.
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May 7, 2007 | 07:03 AM
  #5  
no, boots go over the inner tie rods, bushings mount the rack
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May 7, 2007 | 08:18 AM
  #6  
Ok great. Sounds like my list so far is:

Rack and Pinion
Boots (if my R&P kit doesn't have them)
Tie Rod Ends
Bushings

What about bleeding the system after I'm through? Any tools needed there?

Matt
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May 7, 2007 | 08:51 AM
  #7  
Quote: Ok great. Sounds like my list so far is:

Rack and Pinion
Boots (if my R&P kit doesn't have them)
Tie Rod Ends
Bushings

What about bleeding the system after I'm through? Any tools needed there?

Matt
if your rack doesn't come with new boots, don't bother getting it. A GOOD rebuilt will include the boots.
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May 7, 2007 | 09:07 AM
  #8  
the new rack should come with boots. otherwise don't get it. i already did this not too long ago on my car as well. at first it seems hard but once you are in there it gets easy. get new rack bushings from Nissan, new outer tie rod ends. also make sure that when you get the new rack make sure it comes with 2 new O-rings for the high and low lines. if they don't then get them cuz you have to replace those once you install the new one. if you need more info, i made a thread when i was replacing mine. go there --> http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=507390. enjoy and have fun.
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May 7, 2007 | 09:08 AM
  #9  
there is 1 thing we forgot to mention.
get it ALIGNED as soon as possible after the rack is installed.
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May 7, 2007 | 04:46 PM
  #10  
Quote: there is 1 thing we forgot to mention.
get it ALIGNED as soon as possible after the rack is installed.
thank you for bringing that up Brian. i completely forgot to state that.
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May 8, 2007 | 05:50 AM
  #11  
Thanks everyone. I will get it aligned the next day.

My final shopping list is:

Rack and Pinion kit (with boots)
Rack Bushings
Tie rod ends
O-Rings for the high and low lines
Break bleeder kit
ATF fluid

Anything I've forgotten?

Matt
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May 8, 2007 | 05:56 AM
  #12  
why a brake bleeder kit?
O-rings should come with the rack too.
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May 8, 2007 | 06:00 AM
  #13  
Quote: why a brake bleeder kit?
O-rings should come with the rack too.
Won't I need something to bleed the Power Steering system once I'm done? I assumed I'd need to replace all the fluid that drains out.
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May 8, 2007 | 06:47 AM
  #14  
you do, but no kit is needed.
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May 8, 2007 | 06:56 AM
  #15  
Bleeding procedure per fsm:
1. Raise front of vehicle until wheels are clear of the ground

2. add fluid into tank to specified level, turn steering wheel quickly from left to right,lightly touching the steering stoppers..repeat procedure until fluid level stops going down..

3. Start engine, then repeat step 2 with the engine running...
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May 8, 2007 | 07:05 AM
  #16  
Quote: Bleeding procedure per fsm:
1. Raise front of vehicle until wheels are clear of the ground

2. add fluid into tank to specified level, turn steering wheel quickly from left to right,lightly touching the steering stoppers..repeat procedure until fluid level stops going down..

3. Start engine, then repeat step 2 with the engine running...
Perfect...thank you.

I was just about to get out the FSM and read this section.

Matt
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May 8, 2007 | 07:25 AM
  #17  
Ok, talk about adding insult to injury. I just took the car to Costco to get a new tire (the state inspection failed because the tread was too low on one of them.)

The told me they wouldn't cover the tires warranty because the alignment was off.

So, I've ordered 2 new tires, but here is the question: He told my wife that the Camber is broken. (At least that's how it got to me.) Could that mean something is broken? Or does it mean it just needs an alignment?

Since I'm replacing the rack and pinion this weekend and having it aligned, is there anything else in there I could replace, alignment-wise?

Matt
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May 8, 2007 | 07:29 AM
  #18  
Ok, I asked some more questions about what he actually said. He told her that the tires were both tilting in, so the "camber must be broken."

So, same question I guess. Does this mean a camber bolt is broken? Or maybe it just needs an alignment.
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May 8, 2007 | 07:39 AM
  #19  
Sounds like you have worn out control arm bushings...
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May 8, 2007 | 08:07 AM
  #20  
Quote: Sounds like you have worn out control arm bushings...
That does not sound awesome. I wonder if I can get it into an alignment place to have it diagnosed.

matt
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May 18, 2007 | 06:38 AM
  #21  
Ok, so a few new developments in the story. My wife isn't feeling so great about fixing the max and using it as our main family car. With mounting problems and high miles, I don't blame her. I'd hate for her to be stranded on the freeway with my son.

So, we ended up buying a used car. An 02 Avalon.

I kept the Maxima though, believe it to have much more life in it. So, with my money all gone, I'm trying to find ways to cheap out on this fix.

Here is my plan, see if you find any flaws here:

The Steering leak is small. It must be, because I never see any actual fluid coming off the car. No puddle under there. So, I want to drain the power steering fluid out (if that's possible), and replace it with the right ATF fluid, and some of that fix-a-leak stuff.

I'll do the other fixes that the safety inspection wanted (rotors, alignment, 2 tires). Then I'll power wash it under there, and get it over to the inspection station. Maybe the leak will have stopped enough to pass? (me crosses fingers.)

In the end, even if it doesn't, it's worth a shot. I really hope it just needs an alignment, and not new control arms or bushings etc.

Matt
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May 18, 2007 | 07:06 AM
  #22  
Quote: So, I want to drain the power steering fluid out (if that's possible), and replace it with the right ATF fluid, and some of that fix-a-leak stuff.
Matt
Use Dexron III only. Easy to do. Buy turkey baster (cheap) or siphon. Open power steering reservoir cap, remove filter, remove all the old fluid you can through the cap (down to the bottom of the reservoir). Replace filter. Fill with Dexron III. drive car for 1 week. Repeat drain and fill. Do this again after one more week and you will have almost all new fluid in your system. this may even give your old seals new life and stop a minor leak. It did for me. DONT use fix a leak stuff.
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May 18, 2007 | 11:47 AM
  #23  
Quote: Use Dexron III only. Easy to do. Buy turkey baster (cheap) or siphon. Open power steering reservoir cap, remove filter, remove all the old fluid you can through the cap (down to the bottom of the reservoir). Replace filter. Fill with Dexron III. drive car for 1 week. Repeat drain and fill. Do this again after one more week and you will have almost all new fluid in your system. this may even give your old seals new life and stop a minor leak. It did for me. DONT use fix a leak stuff.
Great advise. I will look around for the Dexron III. I'll give this a shot. I just had the mechanic look at the front end. He said there was no problems with the front suspension...just needs to be aligned. So, maybe after the new tires+alignment and some new fluid, I'll be back in biz.
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