So I'm driving home from about 15 miles away on the usual rough roads around here, and I notice every time I hit a bump, or accelerate, the temp gauge instantly goes to its off position...It would twitch on and off quickly on some rougher patches.

Coolant temp sensor was new a year or two ago, it's not the thermostat, obviously, and it's definitely an electrical problem...

What's the next step? Dismantle the dash and check out the gauge cluster?
Or could it be wiring in the engine bay / leading up to the cluster? Gonna try and sort this one out tonight, so suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Thump your dash a few times. If it changes when you hit it, then the problem is your gauge.

 

The coolant temp sensor has nothing to do with the gauge. The cylinder head temp sensor is the one that controls your gauge.(the little one wire sensor opposite your cts).

Sometimes the chts plug connnector/and or prong can get dirty or loose from heat wear,check this also.

 

yes i had the same problem here http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=522594 but unfortunately the thread was locked before i got to confirm that replacing that sensor fixed my problem.

 

Unlocked,post away..

 

Dash thumpage not working...connection lost...

Will check CHTS and report back...if that doesn't work, it's time to rip the dash apart...

 

If I ever meet you I owe you a beer, Wayne...Check it out: Cylinder head temp sensor wire is busted from plug:




So now the question is, how do I reconnect the wire into the plug? Or better yet, what is the best / most reliable way to do so?

 

new sensor. Its that old any way its probably about to fail any way. I replaced both my coolant sensors at the same time because you have to drain/fill the coolant system.

~Alex

 

The plug is broken,not the sensor(thought it may be by the looks of the pictures,ugh dirty)

Also,he stated in his original post that he replaced his cts already.

 

You do not have to drain the coolant system to replace either sensor,just unscrew the sensor/stick the new sensor in there quickly/done.

 

You could do up a rig like this..

 

no bleeding necessary either?

see my idle is still being retarded but i can't figure if it's a CTS, TPS, IACV, or whoknowswhat...

but if i replace the CTS of course i'd have to do it right otherwise i'd be no better off.

 

Sounds like just the ticket, Wayne...the only thing I am going to add is spraying the whole connection down with liquid electrical tape (never knew it existed before tonight, my house mate has some in the garage.)

OT Note: I know this is only a minor issue, but things like brittle plastic, old, nasty gaskets & seals, torn weather stripping, electrical gremlins, etc. bugs me ALMOST as much as mechanical issues, which is why I plan on having a new car well before this time next year...It's more fun to mod a car than to repair it...I am still set on buying an '05 Impulse Blue LS2 6-speed GTO in the late spring / early summer of '08 and starting to mod it shortly thereafter.

But for fall Maxima mods, I currently want to add a RSB, rear disc conversion, use the expensive-@$$ paint that's been sitting in my closet since May, and upgrade to 9007 bulbs and add foglights.

 

If you stick the new sensor in quickly,then there is very little to no coolant loss=no bleeding necessary.

 

Fixed...

 

I had to bleed mine. The idle bounced up and down otherwise. Maybe I had a small air bubble to begin with but w/e. Id rather bleed it for the piece of mind any way.

Edit-are you talking about a VE? It might be more tolerant to sensor replacement then the VG, different locations and all.

~Alex

 

That's because your slow.


Both,you need to have the new sensor ready to pop in there immediately after you remove the old one. This way the coolant has no time to leak out.

 

plus you can jack the front end waaaay up if you plan on being slow. but my idle has been crappy since way before i replaced that sender on mine; at least since april. it's not bumpy and jumpy anymore, but it runs high, and take a long time to spin down to a 'normal' level after losing a load (D to N, AC turned off, etc)