Temp Gauge Twitched & Stopped Working
08-15-2007, 02:41 PM
#1
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Temp Gauge Twitched & Stopped Working
So I'm driving home from about 15 miles away on the usual rough roads around here, and I notice every time I hit a bump, or accelerate, the temp gauge instantly goes to its off position...It would twitch on and off quickly on some rougher patches.
Coolant temp sensor was new a year or two ago, it's not the thermostat, obviously, and it's definitely an electrical problem...
What's the next step? Dismantle the dash and check out the gauge cluster?
Or could it be wiring in the engine bay / leading up to the cluster? Gonna try and sort this one out tonight, so suggestions would be appreciated.
Coolant temp sensor was new a year or two ago, it's not the thermostat, obviously, and it's definitely an electrical problem...
What's the next step? Dismantle the dash and check out the gauge cluster?
Or could it be wiring in the engine bay / leading up to the cluster? Gonna try and sort this one out tonight, so suggestions would be appreciated.
08-15-2007, 02:59 PM
#3
The coolant temp sensor has nothing to do with the gauge. The cylinder head temp sensor is the one that controls your gauge.(the little one wire sensor opposite your cts).
Sometimes the chts plug connnector/and or prong can get dirty or loose from heat wear,check this also.
Sometimes the chts plug connnector/and or prong can get dirty or loose from heat wear,check this also.
08-15-2007, 03:46 PM
#4
Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
The coolant temp sensor has nothing to do with the gauge. The cylinder head temp sensor is the one that controls your gauge.(the little one wire sensor opposite your cts).
Sometimes the chts plug connnector/and or prong can get dirty or loose from heat wear,check this also.
Sometimes the chts plug connnector/and or prong can get dirty or loose from heat wear,check this also.
08-15-2007, 03:57 PM
#5
Originally Posted by capedcadaver
yes i had the same problem here http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=522594 but unfortunately the thread was locked before i got to confirm that replacing that sensor fixed my problem.
Unlocked,post away..
08-15-2007, 04:41 PM
#7
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If I ever meet you I owe you a beer, Wayne...Check it out: Cylinder head temp sensor wire is busted from plug:
So now the question is, how do I reconnect the wire into the plug? Or better yet, what is the best / most reliable way to do so?
So now the question is, how do I reconnect the wire into the plug? Or better yet, what is the best / most reliable way to do so?
08-15-2007, 05:08 PM
#9
Originally Posted by Alex_V
new sensor. Its that old any way its probably about to fail any way. I replaced both my coolant sensors at the same time because you have to drain/fill the coolant system.
~Alex
~Alex
The plug is broken,not the sensor(thought it may be by the looks of the pictures,ugh dirty)
Also,he stated in his original post that he replaced his cts already.
08-15-2007, 05:26 PM
#10
Originally Posted by Alex_V
I replaced both my coolant sensors at the same time because you have to drain/fill the coolant system.
~Alex
~Alex
You do not have to drain the coolant system to replace either sensor,just unscrew the sensor/stick the new sensor in there quickly/done.
08-15-2007, 05:53 PM
#12
Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
You do not have to drain the coolant system to replace either sensor,just unscrew the sensor/stick the new sensor in there quickly/done.
see my idle is still being retarded but i can't figure if it's a CTS, TPS, IACV, or whoknowswhat...
but if i replace the CTS of course i'd have to do it right otherwise i'd be no better off.
08-15-2007, 06:25 PM
#13
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Sounds like just the ticket, Wayne...the only thing I am going to add is spraying the whole connection down with liquid electrical tape (never knew it existed before tonight, my house mate has some in the garage.)
OT Note: I know this is only a minor issue, but things like brittle plastic, old, nasty gaskets & seals, torn weather stripping, electrical gremlins, etc. bugs me ALMOST as much as mechanical issues, which is why I plan on having a new car well before this time next year...It's more fun to mod a car than to repair it...I am still set on buying an '05 Impulse Blue LS2 6-speed GTO in the late spring / early summer of '08 and starting to mod it shortly thereafter.
But for fall Maxima mods, I currently want to add a RSB, rear disc conversion, use the expensive-@$$ paint that's been sitting in my closet since May, and upgrade to 9007 bulbs and add foglights.
OT Note: I know this is only a minor issue, but things like brittle plastic, old, nasty gaskets & seals, torn weather stripping, electrical gremlins, etc. bugs me ALMOST as much as mechanical issues, which is why I plan on having a new car well before this time next year...It's more fun to mod a car than to repair it...I am still set on buying an '05 Impulse Blue LS2 6-speed GTO in the late spring / early summer of '08 and starting to mod it shortly thereafter.
But for fall Maxima mods, I currently want to add a RSB, rear disc conversion, use the expensive-@$$ paint that's been sitting in my closet since May, and upgrade to 9007 bulbs and add foglights.
08-16-2007, 02:37 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
If you stick the new sensor in quickly,then there is very little to no coolant loss=no bleeding necessary.
Edit-are you talking about a VE? It might be more tolerant to sensor replacement then the VG, different locations and all.
~Alex
08-16-2007, 02:48 PM
#17
Originally Posted by Alex_V
I had to bleed mine. The idle bounced up and down otherwise. Maybe I had a small air bubble to begin with but w/e. Id rather bleed it for the piece of mind any way.
That's because your slow.
Originally Posted by Alex_V
Edit-are you talking about a VE? It might be more tolerant to sensor replacement then the VG, different locations and all.
08-16-2007, 05:11 PM
#18
Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
Both,you need to have the new sensor ready to pop in there immediately after you remove the old one. This way the coolant has no time to leak out.
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