Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

I have a 92 Maxima SE Automatic. I live in hot and sunny Las Vegas. Here is my problem.

On hot days (100 degrees F +), my car's acceleration is very sucky. It is not a consistant thing, it just happens about once every 10 times I start my car on hot days. This is what happens: I am at a stop light going straight and I stomp it to the floor. The car goes off the line just like it's stuck in second gear, but it's definitely in 1st. It slowly revs to 3000 and makes all the noise as usual, but it absolutely goes no where. It shifts at the same point as usual (5900 rpms). It just takes forever to get up and go. The difference between this problem and normal acceleration is like "night and day". Something is definitely wrong. Do you think I should go the dealer and get a diagnostic check on the engine? Has anybody ever had this problem before? Thank you.

Aaron92SE

P.S. I just changed the Fuel Filter and Spark Plugs. The problem did not change at all. Please help.

Jupiternaus

Mizeree_X

iTrader: (9)

I have a 92SE Auto too, and have that problem. I have read that VE's have 'heat stroke' -- in the heat they begin to perform sluggishly. I am not sure what the cause is exactly, but I'm guessing it has to do with old temperature sensors that pull back the timing (when they shouldn't) when it gets too hot. I know that the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor can be cleaned to see performance gains, but that only worked for a little while for me. Hope that helps.

Jupiternaus

ANOTHER WAY TO TEST THIS... IN HTE HEAT..GO DOWN THE EXPRESSWAY GOING 70. MY CAR SHAPES UP THEN. OF COURSE THE WIOND RATIO/FACTOR OF COURSE IS MUCH GREAT AT 70 MPH IN 100 DEGREE WEATHER AS OPPOSSED TO 30 MI P H

MaDMaX024

i had an experiance like that today in my 92 SE. mine is a 5speed though and i dont like to burn the clutch too much, it just didnt have the "pep" it usually has. it was about 95 degrees here. also, i'm getting really bad gas mileage, could this be the heat and humidity? i filled up(89 octane) last night and used 1/8th tank on 41 miles, i usually get close to 60 out of an 1/8th.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

This is my exact problem. I am getting about 15 or 16 miles a gallon. In 1/4 of a tank, I am getting 60 miles out of it. yeah, that's right....only 60. This problem only happens for me on really hot days. Now, that we have that out of the way....is there a way to fix it? My coolant temperature is directly inbetween the C and H. So, I think that is good. Does anybody know how to fix it? Thanks for everybody's help.

Aaron92SE

Jupiternaus

theres no way. a trans cooler of course if not already installed.... but the weather will always be a variable with cars.... engines.. esp ours =(, my collant is actually closer to the c than H , and still have prob.
I do believe having the ac help s a lil....maybe liol more than a lil. but it doesn't fix the prob. just do your errands at night. lol

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Try cleaning your coolant temp sensor(red). But yes, in general the ve suffers from heat soak. I think the engine gets hot and the ecu pulls the timing back but that's just my theory.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

I just looked in my Chilton's Repair Manual and I couldn't find how to clean the temp sensor. Can you please explain what it looks like and where I can find it?
I am going to do a Radiator Flush next week. It has probably never been done. Do you think this will help? Thanks.

Aaron92SE

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

Get some Water Wetter from Redline.

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

Get some Water Wetter from Redline.

John van de Pol

My Max is doing the same thing. I am sorry, but I don't believe the heat soak theory, because it's only being doing it for the last two or three years (steadily worse).

I replaced my temp sensor AND the connector, with high hopes (because cleaning seemed to work, but only for a while) but it was to no avail.

I replaced fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, all nada nada.

My theories / further options to explore (and maybe someone can post like mine saying: "done it -- to no avail")

1. vacuum leak (less likely, because the car is spirited when warming up.

1a. Disconnect the fuel vapor cannister

2. RGR valve dirty / sticking / generally not working as it should

3. Clean sensor contacts for MAF sensor

4. Verify that the O2 sensor is working as it should in ECU diagnostic mode. I have read people replaced the sensor to solve this problem without luck.

This appears to be a common issue. Anyone with friends at a Nissan dealership that could review Tech bulletins and see if there is one for this problem?

The first one to crack this one will be a hero for some time to come.

John

93 SE

if there was a way to keep the car running like it does when you first start it up and engine is cold that would be great...cuz the car is really spectular for the first 5 -10 minutes,it runs so quick and fast...how bout an air conditioner in engine bay

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

yeah the heat soak is a problem....but the VE just doesnt have it down low to begin with. especially the VE autos. my friend (TEAM*DRIFT) kills me in his 98 Civic until about 60....then i start to kill him. it sucks bad. i can barely chirp the tires off the line....and it's just slow as crap till about 3rd gear.

MaDMaX024

thats my idea...sort of...i'm wrapping every exhaust componant i can get to with header wrap(to keep underhood temps down for better cooling).then i'm doing the same with the intake (just to keep those temps down for better performance). then i was thinking, maybe a bottle of waterwetter after a radiator flush and a colder thermostat could help me out alot. or maybe skip the thermostat and get a switch installed to manually run the radiator fans because (stupid question) doesnt the "water" circulate the entire time the car is running and the fans just come on when additional cooling is necessary and the EGR valve is opened when the engine is running too cool? my temp guage is always a little below half but the engine seems "tired" after its been running for a while.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

the water wetterwon't help you much.. on other engines, it's been shown to have about a 10 degree drop in operating temp.. now look at your thermostat. once the car warms up, your thermostat stays just under halfway, right?
go sit in heavy traffic.. it's right there.. head out on the highway all afternoon with the heat on in winter- it's right there..

our engines are VERY well temp controlled from the thermostat's end of things. Thus I'm trying to say adding water wetter just won't do any good, except raise the price of a radiator flush.

if you want a cooler running engine, you're probably going to have to modify the thermostat or housing, to let more coolant flow through the engine. if I have time after changing my clutch this weekend, I'll play with that issue.


John... about some of your theories...
MAF sensor/connector dirty- I cleaned it when I installed my CAI a couple weeks ago. made none or minor difference. CAI helped afterthe engine got hot, but I still noticed the power fade after 1-2 minutes of driving.

vacuum leak- only if the EGR valve itself is leaking or something. when I bought my car, almost all the vacuum hoses were disconnected. it wouldn't idle worth shi*. I got out the FSM and reconnected them all. idle fixed, but power loss still there.

O2 sensor is working fine (in my case). on highway-only use, I still get over 330miles/tank if I keep my foot out of it and stay under 95mph. in city driving (in 100+ heat).. I'm lucky to get 250 on a tank.


I'm going to do some "experimenting" with the engine temp sensor and some creativity this weekend. I'll post any positive results I find. Jeff, you know what I'm talking about from the other forum.

93 SE

{quote}[matt93se]if you want a cooler running engine, you're probably going to have to modify the thermostat or housing, to let more coolant flow through the engine. if I have time after changing my clutch this weekend, I'll play with that issue.{quote}

please find a cure...thats my only disease the car has,besides a door lock timer on fritz ...and yes i resodered connections but it looks new,clean and my hands shake to much to get all of them

93 SE

i give you $20 for doorlock timer and harness with 5inches wire length

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

I can help you out with the door lock timer too. shoot me an email and we'll get that settled. I won't lighten your wallet too much.

93 SE

youve got mail

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

Doesn't the MAF senses the amount of air entering the engine by keeping track of the amount of current the ECU sending out to keep that metal strip at a certain temp. I'm no too convinced about the heat soak debate because the engine gets just as hot in the summer as it does in the winter if the cooling system working properly (fans, thermostat, coolant, etc) Some have taken their cars to the dealer only to be told that the MAF sensor needs to be replaced. But paying 5-600 for a sensor hard to accept especially if it doesn't turn out to be the problem. Besides calculating the amount of air entering the engine, doesn't the MAF calcualte the temp of the air also? So if the MAF sensing the incoming air super heated above the actual ambient temp the ECU will cut back on power big time. Also keep in mind all the engine sensors have a "calibrated" range it should fail within and if these sensors does not fall out of this range the ECU will not store a code. But a sensor can be malfunctioning to the outter limits of the range (but still within it's calibrated range) and cause all types of driveability problems without setting the MIL, i.e. low power. If I had time I would do "my" trouble shooting by installing a jumper wire from the MAF sensor harness to a DVOM placed inside the car where I can keep a eye on the readings while driving and comparing it to when the car acting correct to when it's acting incorrect. Just my $0.02

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Mike,the problem with heat soak is the actual intake air temp. even though the engine is at the same temp, the intake air is much cooler in the winter.

the entire purpose of an internal combustion engine is to take an amount of air + fuel, burn it to produce a HUGE volume of air, which pushes the pistons back down and starts the process all over again. the greater the temp difference between intake andexhaust gasses, the more power the engine will put out.

just using ideal gas laws (which is a terrible generalization in this case), you can get an idea of the magnitude here...
assume it's summer, and your underhood temps are 180F (very normal when it's 105+ outside like it is here right now).

Now assume it's winter and 15F outside. Underhood temps are now 60F

your exhaust temps on a properly running engine are in the ballpark of 1500F, if I remember correctly.

translate that to kelvin (which is where ideal gas laws work)...
180F = 355K
60F = 288K
1500F = 1088K

so your out/in ratio for the summer is 1088/355 = 3.06
winter: 1088/288 = 3.77
now for a summer/winter comparison... 3.06/3.77 = 0.812

what this means in english is that in the summer, your engine will only produce 81% of the power that it can in the winter....

remember, these are just CRUDE generalizations, but it's the entire reason CAIs were made. intake 180 degree air or 100degree air in the summer... which will the engine work best with?

MaximaSE91

the ve's are very heat sensitive as is the vg ive noticed also, but the ve seems to have more of a bad effect inthe heat my friend kyle with the white 92 se or "fastmax92" a truck backed into his car last summer and he drove out to my house with the hood off man the thig ran like a raped ape i kid you not. we put the new hood on it and it slowed it way down, from what i hear the CAI will solve some of the heat problem but not all of it, oh and I read a post sayin something about the temp gauge and the coolant sensor being ok this is not true its probably fine yes but I bet there is a little bit of corrosion growing in the connector and also that sensor is for the fuel injection and not the temp gauge in the car.
good luck have fun.

93 SE

i had that idea earlier ..driving without the hood...i wanna have a customized hood with vents so the heat would rise out ,but i dont wanna look like a ricerocket so therfore back to square 1

93 SE

maybe if we could get this idea to help extract some of that heat

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Next week, I am going down to the Nissan Dealer to ask them about this. Hopefully, a diagnostic check will solve the problem. Has anybody tried doing this yet?

Aaron92SE

93 SE

i doubt youll be able to get anything out of a diagnostic, otherwise we woulda had an answer already

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

I just bought my car a couple of weeks ago and I don't know how it's been treated earlier in life. I kinda thought that the fuel filter was clogged. Nope. I am thinking it might have something to do with the fuel injection system. But, why does it only do it in severe heat? Wierd. When my problem hits, I go as fast as molasses in the winter time. It makes all this noise, but I go no where. My engine temperature doesn't have to heat up either. I have had this problem happen as soon as I start the engine on a hot day and also, after it warmed up to normal temperature on a hot day. Never in 90 below temperatures.
But, I still love my car. Tonight, my car barked the tires in second gear. I have an automatic. I love how it shifts. I just wish I could find out how to fix the problems that I have now. I only have 98K miles.

Aaron92SE

93 SE

yeah i got my car used a year ago...what i did and recommend you do is to do a full tune up like plugs,fuel filter, trans fluid drained and refill,coolant,oil ,check brakes,put in some fuel injector cleaner,,then i added a tranny cooler,cai,and a udp and new belts, im probably forgetting somethings but its late and im tired and cant think

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Yeah, I am in the process of getting those things done. I changed the oil, fuel filter, and plugs. I did an alignment, balance, and rotate. I am going to changed the tranny fluid and rear brake pads. I am going to do a radiator flush. And a diagnostic check. I am seriously thinking about a CAI. What's a UDP? That's all I am thinking about doing. Thanks.

Aaron92SE

93 SE

yeah i also got new tires an alignment balance,also clean your throttle body...udp is an underdrive pulley... aspracing.com or rpmoutlet.com sell it for ve its a smaller lighter crank pulley...still doesnt solve heat stroke but does bring speed to the car

Jupiternaus

Well, seems I am not alone - nor anyone else. Feels good. I hate driving home on a hot day and finally getting home and walking away from my car dissappointed. I have put over 2400 in my max in the past 6 mo alone.... but this is by choice. I am fixing everythign I have messed up since I had it three years ago. things that make you go hmmm. It is a long 'restoration' list however. If anyone is insterdted in what all I did.. let me know. About this porb... my car still runs - I think I will get a CAI? I am still new to lingo and I think I know what it is now... ill loook into it - as well wrapping the exhaust sounds liek a good isea - where do you ghet heat wrap at guys, eh?

PrinzII

iTrader: (2)

.....We VG owners experience this as well when the A/C is running. We have had a string of near 100 degree temps and mine seems to bog down with the AC running. I have to almost stomp on it to get some decent punch.

But when I have it off, it seems to hum along fine.

Mizeree_X

iTrader: (9)

That is another story -- the AC is robbing power from the engine, creating the sluggish feeling. That is why it also decreases fuel economy -- the engine is using more power to drive the pulley, instead of the wheels.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Yeah, our problem happens with the AC on or off. When it hits, you will not believe how slow the car accelerates. I push it all the way to the floor, and it does nothing except make more noise as it should. And it takes a very long time to get up and shift into 2nd. After that, it still doesn't wanna move.

MaximaSE91

did you use platinum ngk sparkplugs with your tune up not bosch patinum but ngk platinum plugs??? this will cause your car to run incorrectly we had this problem at the dealer. The VE uses platiunum spark plugs they arent cheap they are like $8-10 for them a piece bosch platinum plugs are not the same. nor are the others only use ngk.

92ZexMaximaSE

That's funny.. On the inside of the hood it says only use Bosch Plantinum plugs.. It doesnt matter anymore since Im using a colder Zex plug..

MaximaSE91

???? No all nissans use NGK

Shep

I've got a 93 SE 5-speed and this has been happening with it for the past month or two. I hope someone can come up with some ideas, because it definitely sucks.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

I went to Pep Boys to buy my plugs. I asked for NGK Platinum plugs. I think he said they don't make them.... or they didn't have them in stock...he didn't know much. I got the only platinum plugs that they had.... Bosch Platinum. But, my problem isn't in the plugs b/c the car's performance stayed about the same with the new plugs. If anything, it got better. With the new plugs, I have only had this problem happen to me once. My old plugs were called "Mighty", I think. They weren't platinum. So maybe, the Bosch plugs were a step up, but just not as good as NGK plugs. My Bosch plugs were about $5 each. So, where does it say that I need to only use NGK plugs? It the manual, it just says platinum tipped plugs.