Engine Cutting Out on 92 Maxima SE
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Recently my 92 SE (5 spd) has started to conk out while driving. It doesn't do it regularly, it isn't associated with the type of gas (always at least 92 octane), it isn't temperature dependent (motor or ambient air temp), but it will do it in the middle of five lanes of traffic at speed (60-75 mph) or even when you least expect it. It did it a few times over the past year and I ignored it as some kind of abberation, but it has become so regular that I won't let my wife and family drive the car because I don't want them to freak when it happens. Here's how it acts:
When you're driving along at speed (any speed really) as long as you aren't romping on the gas pedal but rather holding it at a steady state, and then you step on it to accelerate, the engine just dies. This is really exciting when you're changing into a lane with an 18-wheeler bearing down on you or some Bimmer crawls up your backside and all you want to do is leave him in the dust. You expect that you'll be able to step on it and get clear in time only to have the engine die, literally. (WOT to nothing and the tach is at zero rpm's)and all you can think of is Oh,S---, now what do I do? It will usually crank back up with the key or you can just leave it in 5th gear and hope that it catches and starts again. When it does start back up it's usually short-lived and my first tendency is to go to WOT to get the heck out of the way. That just causes it to die again or go to almost dead and then it catches itself and goes to WOT to barely running to WOT (that is if I keep my foot buried in the trottle to get out of the way of the said 18-wheeler mentioned above). It's like riding a bucking bronco and I'm sure it looks that way too to people around me. The car has 130K miles on it and I've had it since new with no complaints other than replacing the VTC stuff and fixing a tranny problem early on. My question is what would cause this and does anyone have some experience with this kind of behavior or suggestions about how to possibly isolate it to a component. I presume that fuel flow is good and that fuel pressure is good over the range or engine operation, air cleaner is new, fluids are where they're supposed to be but don't know whether it could be the MAF sensor, the O2 sensor, crank angle sensor, knock detection sensor, (some combination of sensors) or just a random (although now too often for random but still unpredictable and scary) event. Sorry for the long post and appreciate your thoughts.
When you're driving along at speed (any speed really) as long as you aren't romping on the gas pedal but rather holding it at a steady state, and then you step on it to accelerate, the engine just dies. This is really exciting when you're changing into a lane with an 18-wheeler bearing down on you or some Bimmer crawls up your backside and all you want to do is leave him in the dust. You expect that you'll be able to step on it and get clear in time only to have the engine die, literally. (WOT to nothing and the tach is at zero rpm's)and all you can think of is Oh,S---, now what do I do? It will usually crank back up with the key or you can just leave it in 5th gear and hope that it catches and starts again. When it does start back up it's usually short-lived and my first tendency is to go to WOT to get the heck out of the way. That just causes it to die again or go to almost dead and then it catches itself and goes to WOT to barely running to WOT (that is if I keep my foot buried in the trottle to get out of the way of the said 18-wheeler mentioned above). It's like riding a bucking bronco and I'm sure it looks that way too to people around me. The car has 130K miles on it and I've had it since new with no complaints other than replacing the VTC stuff and fixing a tranny problem early on. My question is what would cause this and does anyone have some experience with this kind of behavior or suggestions about how to possibly isolate it to a component. I presume that fuel flow is good and that fuel pressure is good over the range or engine operation, air cleaner is new, fluids are where they're supposed to be but don't know whether it could be the MAF sensor, the O2 sensor, crank angle sensor, knock detection sensor, (some combination of sensors) or just a random (although now too often for random but still unpredictable and scary) event. Sorry for the long post and appreciate your thoughts.
Originally posted by Nailit
Recently my 92 SE (5 spd) has started to conk out while driving. It doesn't do it regularly, it isn't associated with the type of gas (always at least 92 octane), it isn't temperature dependent (motor or ambient air temp), but it will do it in the middle of five lanes of traffic at speed (60-75 mph) or even when you least expect it. It did it a few times over the past year and I ignored it as some kind of abberation, but it has become so regular that I won't let my wife and family drive the car because I don't want them to freak when it happens. Here's how it acts:
When you're driving along at speed (any speed really) as long as you aren't romping on the gas pedal but rather holding it at a steady state, and then you step on it to accelerate, the engine just dies. This is really exciting when you're changing into a lane with an 18-wheeler bearing down on you or some Bimmer crawls up your backside and all you want to do is leave him in the dust. You expect that you'll be able to step on it and get clear in time only to have the engine die, literally. (WOT to nothing and the tach is at zero rpm's)and all you can think of is Oh,S---, now what do I do? It will usually crank back up with the key or you can just leave it in 5th gear and hope that it catches and starts again. When it does start back up it's usually short-lived and my first tendency is to go to WOT to get the heck out of the way. That just causes it to die again or go to almost dead and then it catches itself and goes to WOT to barely running to WOT (that is if I keep my foot buried in the trottle to get out of the way of the said 18-wheeler mentioned above). It's like riding a bucking bronco and I'm sure it looks that way too to people around me. The car has 130K miles on it and I've had it since new with no complaints other than replacing the VTC stuff and fixing a tranny problem early on. My question is what would cause this and does anyone have some experience with this kind of behavior or suggestions about how to possibly isolate it to a component. I presume that fuel flow is good and that fuel pressure is good over the range or engine operation, air cleaner is new, fluids are where they're supposed to be but don't know whether it could be the MAF sensor, the O2 sensor, crank angle sensor, knock detection sensor, (some combination of sensors) or just a random (although now too often for random but still unpredictable and scary) event. Sorry for the long post and appreciate your thoughts.
Recently my 92 SE (5 spd) has started to conk out while driving. It doesn't do it regularly, it isn't associated with the type of gas (always at least 92 octane), it isn't temperature dependent (motor or ambient air temp), but it will do it in the middle of five lanes of traffic at speed (60-75 mph) or even when you least expect it. It did it a few times over the past year and I ignored it as some kind of abberation, but it has become so regular that I won't let my wife and family drive the car because I don't want them to freak when it happens. Here's how it acts:
When you're driving along at speed (any speed really) as long as you aren't romping on the gas pedal but rather holding it at a steady state, and then you step on it to accelerate, the engine just dies. This is really exciting when you're changing into a lane with an 18-wheeler bearing down on you or some Bimmer crawls up your backside and all you want to do is leave him in the dust. You expect that you'll be able to step on it and get clear in time only to have the engine die, literally. (WOT to nothing and the tach is at zero rpm's)and all you can think of is Oh,S---, now what do I do? It will usually crank back up with the key or you can just leave it in 5th gear and hope that it catches and starts again. When it does start back up it's usually short-lived and my first tendency is to go to WOT to get the heck out of the way. That just causes it to die again or go to almost dead and then it catches itself and goes to WOT to barely running to WOT (that is if I keep my foot buried in the trottle to get out of the way of the said 18-wheeler mentioned above). It's like riding a bucking bronco and I'm sure it looks that way too to people around me. The car has 130K miles on it and I've had it since new with no complaints other than replacing the VTC stuff and fixing a tranny problem early on. My question is what would cause this and does anyone have some experience with this kind of behavior or suggestions about how to possibly isolate it to a component. I presume that fuel flow is good and that fuel pressure is good over the range or engine operation, air cleaner is new, fluids are where they're supposed to be but don't know whether it could be the MAF sensor, the O2 sensor, crank angle sensor, knock detection sensor, (some combination of sensors) or just a random (although now too often for random but still unpredictable and scary) event. Sorry for the long post and appreciate your thoughts.
Just run through and check your entire fuel line, make sure no lines are kinked and replace your fuel filter like chris said. Go through and make sure it's not something in your fuel line that would be my first step.
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Thanks Chris,
I changed the fuel filter at the normal replacement intervals (every 45K as I recall) and just to make sure, replaced it when the original engine cut-out behavior started. Didn't notice any improvement. One thing too that I just remembered, is that when I replaced the spark plugs at their interval (120K <give or take 1-2K>) the incidence of engine cut-out went up immediately. Have checked all the wires to the individual spark plug coils/connectors for leaks and even did an after-dark-check where I lifted the hood at night after a high speed run (needed to make sure the engine was up to operating temperature) to see if there was any arcing and sparking going on around the plug wires/connectors or anywhere else and could see or hear nothing out of the ordinary.
I changed the fuel filter at the normal replacement intervals (every 45K as I recall) and just to make sure, replaced it when the original engine cut-out behavior started. Didn't notice any improvement. One thing too that I just remembered, is that when I replaced the spark plugs at their interval (120K <give or take 1-2K>) the incidence of engine cut-out went up immediately. Have checked all the wires to the individual spark plug coils/connectors for leaks and even did an after-dark-check where I lifted the hood at night after a high speed run (needed to make sure the engine was up to operating temperature) to see if there was any arcing and sparking going on around the plug wires/connectors or anywhere else and could see or hear nothing out of the ordinary.
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I put new platinum plugs in about 3-5K miles ago. My first change out came at 63K and my recollection without going to my log is that the second set went in aroud 125K. I switched from platinum NGK's (stock) to platinum Bosch and didn't notice any change in performance (maybe a little smoother but not enough to change my mileage (remains a steady 24 mpg aroud town). Is there a test for the individual spark plug coils that I can do to see if one or more of them are breaking down? I think it would have to be a wholesale shutdown of the spark system for some reason because just one plug off-line will make it run rough but I've never been able to make the engine quit by taking off just one plug connector at a time. Thanks for the suggestions. Back over to you.
well what gots me is that it runs fine until it just decides to do it, and at any speed. i don't know it might be an ECU problem. or a sensor. But i would check your fuel line first.
Matt is probably the one you wanna talk to. He knows F'in everything about these cars.
Matt is probably the one you wanna talk to. He knows F'in everything about these cars.
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Engine Cutting Out on 92 Maxima SE
Nailit Lurker describes exactly the same condition that my car is suffering from. I would like to know how this problem,ie "Engine Cutting Out on 92 Maxima SE" was finally resolved. Thank you, in advance.
Originally posted by Chris Gregg
Fuel pumps will start to tell you when they are going out, but if it has been doing it for a year, that may not be it. Change the fuel filter, cheap and probably needed anyway. Anybody else have any ideas?
Originally posted by Nailit
Recently my 92 SE (5 spd) has started to conk out while driving. It doesn't do it regularly, it isn't associated with the type of gas (always at least 92 octane), it isn't temperature dependent (motor or ambient air temp), but it will do it in the middle of five lanes of traffic at speed (60-75 mph) or even when you least expect it. It did it a few times over the past year and I ignored it as some kind of abberation, but it has become so regular that I won't let my wife and family drive the car because I don't want them to freak when it happens. Here's how it acts:
When you're driving along at speed (any speed really) as long as you aren't romping on the gas pedal but rather holding it at a steady state, and then you step on it to accelerate, the engine just dies. This is really exciting when you're changing into a lane with an 18-wheeler bearing down on you or some Bimmer crawls up your backside and all you want to do is leave him in the dust. You expect that you'll be able to step on it and get clear in time only to have the engine die, literally. (WOT to nothing and the tach is at zero rpm's)and all you can think of is Oh,S---, now what do I do? It will usually crank back up with the key or you can just leave it in 5th gear and hope that it catches and starts again. When it does start back up it's usually short-lived and my first tendency is to go to WOT to get the heck out of the way. That just causes it to die again or go to almost dead and then it catches itself and goes to WOT to barely running to WOT (that is if I keep my foot buried in the trottle to get out of the way of the said 18-wheeler mentioned above). It's like riding a bucking bronco and I'm sure it looks that way too to people around me. The car has 130K miles on it and I've had it since new with no complaints other than replacing the VTC stuff and fixing a tranny problem early on. My question is what would cause this and does anyone have some experience with this kind of behavior or suggestions about how to possibly isolate it to a component. I presume that fuel flow is good and that fuel pressure is good over the range or engine operation, air cleaner is new, fluids are where they're supposed to be but don't know whether it could be the MAF sensor, the O2 sensor, crank angle sensor, knock detection sensor, (some combination of sensors) or just a random (although now too often for random but still unpredictable and scary) event. Sorry for the long post and appreciate your thoughts.
Recently my 92 SE (5 spd) has started to conk out while driving. It doesn't do it regularly, it isn't associated with the type of gas (always at least 92 octane), it isn't temperature dependent (motor or ambient air temp), but it will do it in the middle of five lanes of traffic at speed (60-75 mph) or even when you least expect it. It did it a few times over the past year and I ignored it as some kind of abberation, but it has become so regular that I won't let my wife and family drive the car because I don't want them to freak when it happens. Here's how it acts:
When you're driving along at speed (any speed really) as long as you aren't romping on the gas pedal but rather holding it at a steady state, and then you step on it to accelerate, the engine just dies. This is really exciting when you're changing into a lane with an 18-wheeler bearing down on you or some Bimmer crawls up your backside and all you want to do is leave him in the dust. You expect that you'll be able to step on it and get clear in time only to have the engine die, literally. (WOT to nothing and the tach is at zero rpm's)and all you can think of is Oh,S---, now what do I do? It will usually crank back up with the key or you can just leave it in 5th gear and hope that it catches and starts again. When it does start back up it's usually short-lived and my first tendency is to go to WOT to get the heck out of the way. That just causes it to die again or go to almost dead and then it catches itself and goes to WOT to barely running to WOT (that is if I keep my foot buried in the trottle to get out of the way of the said 18-wheeler mentioned above). It's like riding a bucking bronco and I'm sure it looks that way too to people around me. The car has 130K miles on it and I've had it since new with no complaints other than replacing the VTC stuff and fixing a tranny problem early on. My question is what would cause this and does anyone have some experience with this kind of behavior or suggestions about how to possibly isolate it to a component. I presume that fuel flow is good and that fuel pressure is good over the range or engine operation, air cleaner is new, fluids are where they're supposed to be but don't know whether it could be the MAF sensor, the O2 sensor, crank angle sensor, knock detection sensor, (some combination of sensors) or just a random (although now too often for random but still unpredictable and scary) event. Sorry for the long post and appreciate your thoughts.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 123
92 Stalling
My sister had a 1986 Max and it did the same thing. The probem was that on those Max's there was a small filter on the bottom of the fuel pump inside the tank and the car would drive fine for a while but all of a sudden the car would buck and stall. I have never removed the fuel pump from the tank of a 3rd gen so I don't know if has the same small filter. But it may be worth a try.
Ryan.
Ryan.
Re: 92 Stalling
Originally posted by DigitalDashMax
My sister had a 1986 Max and it did the same thing. The probem was that on those Max's there was a small filter on the bottom of the fuel pump inside the tank and the car would drive fine for a while but all of a sudden the car would buck and stall. I have never removed the fuel pump from the tank of a 3rd gen so I don't know if has the same small filter. But it may be worth a try.
Ryan.
My sister had a 1986 Max and it did the same thing. The probem was that on those Max's there was a small filter on the bottom of the fuel pump inside the tank and the car would drive fine for a while but all of a sudden the car would buck and stall. I have never removed the fuel pump from the tank of a 3rd gen so I don't know if has the same small filter. But it may be worth a try.
Ryan.
Something else to consider is that although you've been running platinum plugs, you may want to go to something else like a rapid fire. I've tried other "high performance" plugs, like the quad fire and my Max missed like a pregnant woman! I didn't see that you had even pulled a plug to check it..... never know?
Here's what I've done>>>>>
To help isolate a stalling problem, I install a fuel pressure gauge. Whenever the car stalls, pull over and check to see if you have fuel pressure showing. Keep in mind if the car bucks and stumble to a stop and you have no pressure showing, it's fuel related. But, if it just stops (as you have written) without any warning and there is pressure showing it's ignition related. Helps narrow down the posibilities. I have a VE like your self and have never experience any driveabilty problems yet with either engine or tranny (knock on wood) GOOD LUCK
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Engine Cutting Out on 92 Maxima SE
Recently changed NKG plugs (in relatively good shape after 60K+ miles), installed Bosch platinum 4+ replacements, but did not see any improvement in engine cut-out problem. Due to rise in gas prices, I changed from Texaco high test to whatever cheaper hi-test brand was on the market, now I am back to Texaco. After half a tank, it is still not clear if there is any improvement, but I am keeping my eyes on it. I am looking to see if there is some easy way of checking the injectors...my first problem is I can see three of them on the front of the engine, but havent been able to locate the three that inject the three rear cylinders; Of course they have to be back there somewhere...
So, the plan is: a/ circulate a few tanks of Texaco hi- test
gas through the motor.
b/ if a/ dont help, try to test injectors
c/ if b also dont help, remove the gas tank
check out small filter at intake of fuel pump.
Thanks for all the comments and suggestions...
So, the plan is: a/ circulate a few tanks of Texaco hi- test
gas through the motor.
b/ if a/ dont help, try to test injectors
c/ if b also dont help, remove the gas tank
check out small filter at intake of fuel pump.
Thanks for all the comments and suggestions...
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Posts: n/a
Some weird reasons
In addition to the usual conk reasons I'd like to mention the following:
1) The filler cup of the fuel tank has a vacuum valve necessary to compensate fuel consumtion from the tank with ambient air. When the valve becomes too stiff or stuck the vacuum inside the tank prevents the normal functioning of the fuel pump. It's easy to check it up: stop your car after some miles (but don't stop the engine) and quickly remove the cup.
If you'll hear an "outward breath" and feel a gas smell, which indicates some air pressure in the tank, especially in hot weather, your valve is OK.
In opposite if you'll feel any vacuum ("deep breathe") in the tank, the valve is bad.
2. Exhaust oxygen (O2) sensor is connected to ECU through connector located under the car. The connector's case may be damaged or simply not hermetic enough. So in rainy days the water may "shorten" this high-resistanse O2 sensor and your ECU "thinks" that fuel/air mixture is too rich. As a result ECU leans the mixture, and the engine conks. I had such a problem with my car.
Regards,
DDD
1) The filler cup of the fuel tank has a vacuum valve necessary to compensate fuel consumtion from the tank with ambient air. When the valve becomes too stiff or stuck the vacuum inside the tank prevents the normal functioning of the fuel pump. It's easy to check it up: stop your car after some miles (but don't stop the engine) and quickly remove the cup.
If you'll hear an "outward breath" and feel a gas smell, which indicates some air pressure in the tank, especially in hot weather, your valve is OK.
In opposite if you'll feel any vacuum ("deep breathe") in the tank, the valve is bad.
2. Exhaust oxygen (O2) sensor is connected to ECU through connector located under the car. The connector's case may be damaged or simply not hermetic enough. So in rainy days the water may "shorten" this high-resistanse O2 sensor and your ECU "thinks" that fuel/air mixture is too rich. As a result ECU leans the mixture, and the engine conks. I had such a problem with my car.
Regards,
DDD
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Posts: n/a
92 SE Engine Conks
Thanks guys for all the suggestions. I'm totally batching it next week while the family is gone so I'll spend some time on it during the week to isolate "stuff" based on your ideas and plan to get the "fix" done over next weekend. I particularly like the possibility of it just being the battery cable which I'm going to check right now. I never know when I'll get lucky so now's as good a time as any to try it. For those just reading, keep the ideas coming and I'll catalog them and try them out. Regards to all
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Hi, I have an 87 Max that I mentioned a problem about going 2000rpms. the problem is it wouldn't go over this. Have you ever heard of a Fail Safe Mode. You should really look at that because mine bucked like a bronco because of this.
Hope you get it fixed
Hope you get it fixed
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I hadn't heard of a "fail-safe" mode but since I'm continuing to check all possibilities, I'll also look into that. Thanks for the feedback. What did you have to do to your's to work the way it was supposed to do. Was it a computer problem, a sensor, connector or some type of in-line switch? How did you isolate it to that particular "mode"? Your thinking on this is appreciated because it's driving me nuts wondering when it's gonna happen again.
very interesting....
My car stalls out on me as well, I know I need a tune up though, very low gas milage, sparks need to be changed, air filter, fuel filter, even the Catatystic converter is bad.... I am not very gifted in knowledge on mechanical problems, I would expect the basic things to be involved first..
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 1,020
sputtering VE
I had a similar problem (my engine would die for no good reason) after I cleaned it and rinsed it with a hose spray. I covered the important stuff(or so I thought) but none the less I had a lot of problems with it for a couple weeks until the water evaporated from wherever it was hiding. I had a similar prob. also on an integra after cleaning it. My thoughts is that I do not let the engine get dirty anymore so I don't have to clean it.
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I had a new ECCS main relay installed about a month ago,
and it fixed the engine cut-out problem. Cost was 30$
for parts and 30$ for labor. Took the second dealer
(the first couldnt figure it out) a few days to track the problem down. Here is what he found:
Engine cut out
Maxima 1992 Symptom Diagnosis Engine
Reference No FC9802018
Subjct Information:
1989-94 Maxima Engine Cuts Out Intermittently
Document Abstract:
Info source: Norm Ammerman, Nissan Motor Corp, TECH LINE
Condition : Once warmed up, the engine cuts out, the tachometer drops then comes to
life again. Etc.
Solution : ...Check for codes with the checker box. If there are no codes, install a known
good ECCS main relay....
and it fixed the engine cut-out problem. Cost was 30$
for parts and 30$ for labor. Took the second dealer
(the first couldnt figure it out) a few days to track the problem down. Here is what he found:
Engine cut out
Maxima 1992 Symptom Diagnosis Engine
Reference No FC9802018
Subjct Information:
1989-94 Maxima Engine Cuts Out Intermittently
Document Abstract:
Info source: Norm Ammerman, Nissan Motor Corp, TECH LINE
Condition : Once warmed up, the engine cuts out, the tachometer drops then comes to
life again. Etc.
Solution : ...Check for codes with the checker box. If there are no codes, install a known
good ECCS main relay....
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 14
Hey, I know this was posted along time ago but I just started visiting this site. I had the exact same problem and if you haven't figured it out yet heres what you can do. I went to the dealership and caught all kinds of grief because of my upgrades but eventually after trying a stock computer (which didn't work), a Mass Airflow sensor (which didn't work), and trouble shooting vacuum lines and everything fuel related it ended up being the coils. I ordered the parts myself from a discount nissan parts place and put them in myself in ten minutes. Let me know if you already figured it out or if this works. I feel your pain it got so bad I couldn't go anywhere.
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Thanks for the ideas guys
I've been so frickin' busy with work that I've just put off fixin' this thing. I have gone through all the stuff that has been mentioned (at least once each piece) and am now at a point where the "electronic" analysis has to take over.
Csrona: I am encouraged by the finding from the second dealer that your's was an ECCS main relay. My question to you is did you isolate it first with one of those aftermarket engine code devices and then go to the dealer to verify it or was this all done at/by the dealer? Also, is the ECCS relay located in the engine compartment or is it located under the center column dash area in proximity to the ECU or in the main fuse box under the dash? My guess would be the engine compartment based on where the one on my Jeep's located but they're not from the same gene pool...;-}
That would be sweet to just pop out a relay and put a new one in, especially if I get my max back after the transplant. Man I miss the way it used to run like a scalded ape... here's hoping I'll get it back soon!
Best regards, DT
Csrona: I am encouraged by the finding from the second dealer that your's was an ECCS main relay. My question to you is did you isolate it first with one of those aftermarket engine code devices and then go to the dealer to verify it or was this all done at/by the dealer? Also, is the ECCS relay located in the engine compartment or is it located under the center column dash area in proximity to the ECU or in the main fuse box under the dash? My guess would be the engine compartment based on where the one on my Jeep's located but they're not from the same gene pool...;-}
That would be sweet to just pop out a relay and put a new one in, especially if I get my max back after the transplant. Man I miss the way it used to run like a scalded ape... here's hoping I'll get it back soon!
Best regards, DT
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Posts: n/a
Nailit:
I dont think this problem (being intermitent) is analyzable
by anykind of checker device; in any case my dealer put a mechanic to the job of reading thru ancient Nissan advisories, who found the document I (partially) quote in the posting. The dealer fixed the thing, so I havent a clue about where the ECCS main relay is located.
Regards.
I dont think this problem (being intermitent) is analyzable
by anykind of checker device; in any case my dealer put a mechanic to the job of reading thru ancient Nissan advisories, who found the document I (partially) quote in the posting. The dealer fixed the thing, so I havent a clue about where the ECCS main relay is located.
Regards.
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