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One step closer to S Fl. Also questions about VE heads and timing chains

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Old 10-10-2001, 06:30 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: West Palm Beach, FL
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One step closer to S Fl. Also questions about VE heads and timing chains

To begin with, that big truck came and pick-up my car yesterday for it's voyage to the south east. Once I get there I decided to go semi deep into the motor, all top end related from VTC to exhaust studs. Due to my broken studs on the right bank I will remove both heads to have a clear and precise vision on the broken studs. While I'm there I might as well attack the VTC's. Now some might think if I'm going that far why not do the bottom end, and to be honest I have to agree. But time is of the essence and I'm trying to reduce down time. So after reading the FSM I have a few questions.

1)When we talk about grounding the VTC, we grounding the solenoid located on the outside of the rocker covers not the actual VTC assembly within the rocker covers. Correct?

2)Can the lower front engine cover be removed without dropping the oil pan?


In order to reduce dowm time I'm trying to order most of the related items from Courtesy and have them delivered to my new address while I'm in transit from west to east. So this leads to my next question(s)


3)There are several timing chain guides and tensioners, and I'm assuming to replace all of them. But what about the timing chains, the two upper and one lower do those "normally" wear within 110,000. I realize they should be check/inspected to determine if replacement is necessary but keep in mind I'm trying to reduce down time and having the parts there waiting for me will help big time. What about the seven sprockets (4 cam, 2 idler, 1 crank) do those "normally" wear. Of course money will dictate what I will replace. (if it's not noticeably worn)


I will not go into details on how the FSM recommends removal/installation of the timing chains. It states when you re-install the camshaft sprocket and upper timing chains turn the crank until no.1 at 120* before TDC. Go ahead and install everthing related to the LH bank, turn back to 0* TDC and install everything related to the RH bank. This is to prevent interference of valves and piston. I'm not one to say the FSM wrong, but after re-reading the entire removal/installation process this is the only step that makes me scratch my head. If you have a 94 FSM, it's on page EM-61


Also if someone might have the TSB's numbers for the VTC's rebuilding process or the actual TSB literature that will be helpful
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