Who is the Aaron92se of the VG world?
09-14-2007, 03:33 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 230
Who is the Aaron92se of the VG world?
I'm looking for info, write-ups etc on fast VG autos. Don't go saying this an oxymoron. I've thought about ordering a Hekimian engine, or letting a local shop port and polish etc. I'm just looking for direction, what works for the VG?
09-14-2007, 05:34 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 627
Do the standard bolt-on mods first
Y-pipe, CAI, Unorthodox pulley, timing increase, grounding kit, etc.., but I would agree on the turbo for serious power.
Personally, I would just buy an older 300ZX if I was going to spend that kind of money.
Y-pipe, CAI, Unorthodox pulley, timing increase, grounding kit, etc.., but I would agree on the turbo for serious power.
Personally, I would just buy an older 300ZX if I was going to spend that kind of money.
09-14-2007, 09:06 PM
#7
09-14-2007, 09:45 PM
#9
i'm just hoping i can feed the tethers through the radiator and condenser with how it's got some pebbles and crap lodged in it, as do all old cars.
09-14-2007, 09:56 PM
#11
but yeah i'll give you a before/after idea... basically, i grabbed the bottom a/t hose just after shutting the engine off after a long drive and ... well i could only hold it for about a second. now the bottom hose is the hot one, I THINK. I'll verify that tomorrow morning. hopefully i can drive around a while and come back and hold the return hose in my hand and not have to let go. thing touts a 60 degree drop..... possible, but we'll see. more in the winter. because the temperature is not thermostatically controlled like the main radiator is, so the colder outside air will make everything run cooler in the tranny, unlike the engine coolant, which is supposed to be a constant temp at all times. but hopefully that'll keep my transmission alive so i can not have to worry as much about go-fast mods tearing it to pieces..
09-15-2007, 10:48 AM
#14
yeah because when you install the tranny cooler, you don't bypass the radiator, you add it in-line after the radiator. So the radiator will still maintain a fairly uniform temperature to the a/t fluid which then will flow through the cooler and be further cooled, but will have a fairly hot starting temperature regardless.
09-15-2007, 02:44 PM
#16
yeah because when you install the tranny cooler, you don't bypass the radiator, you add it in-line after the radiator. So the radiator will still maintain a fairly uniform temperature to the a/t fluid which then will flow through the cooler and be further cooled, but will have a fairly hot starting temperature regardless.
09-15-2007, 06:44 PM
#17
A lot of the stuff I've done will work with any motor, such as, cone filter, Ypipe, intake manifold spacer, throttle body spacer, bored throttle body, coolant bypass, exhaust cutout, lightened (milled) under driven crank pulley, base ignition timing advance with race fuel, weight reduction, high stall torque converter, valve body recalibration, intake and exhaust port work, polyurethane engine and tranny mounts, hyperground kit, more weight reduction, rear skinnies, slicks, properly setup suspension, and lots more.
Feel free to check out my full mods list:
http://www.nwpengineering.com/mods.html
Feel free to check out my full mods list:
http://www.nwpengineering.com/mods.html
09-15-2007, 08:51 PM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Bellevue, Neb
Posts: 278
What do you mean by timing increase. Like adjust the ditributor?
09-15-2007, 11:01 PM
#19
and use a timing light whenever available, to verify your new timing.
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 09-16-2007 at 08:55 PM.
09-16-2007, 06:56 AM
#20
True, must use 93 octane, I was cheap and didn't and it messed up my cap on the distributer in no time.
09-16-2007, 07:09 AM
#21
09-16-2007, 03:54 PM
#23
If you advance your timing any,even a few degrees i strongly recommend using premium fuel only. All in all it ends up only being about $4-$5 more per fill up using premium fuel,waaay cheaper then replacing an engine do to cumulative detonation damage because you were too cheap to put premium fuel after advancing your timing.
Take it from someone who knows,i have ran my timing advanced with a broken k/s sensor for 110,000+ miles,using only premium fuel(93 octane here). she still puurrs like a kitten(except for vtc clack
)
Take it from someone who knows,i have ran my timing advanced with a broken k/s sensor for 110,000+ miles,using only premium fuel(93 octane here). she still puurrs like a kitten(except for vtc clack
)
09-16-2007, 08:55 PM
#26
09-16-2007, 09:19 PM
#27
Or you could follow this little video on timing advance..
note: please excuse john's potty mouth in the video.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=381973
note: please excuse john's potty mouth in the video.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=381973
09-16-2007, 09:33 PM
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Bellevue, Neb
Posts: 278
Or you could follow this little video on timing advance..
note: please excuse john's potty mouth in the video.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=381973
note: please excuse john's potty mouth in the video.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=381973
09-16-2007, 09:37 PM
#29
IIRC,some of the under drive pulleys had the ac belt "groove" and some didn't.Not sure on that though.
09-17-2007, 06:31 AM
#31
If you have a VG, you'll need to buy the UR pulley. If for some reason UR offers pullies without the AC rib (which I doubt they do), just make sure you get the one that is meant for 3 belts.
09-17-2007, 08:18 PM
#33
Or you could follow this little video on timing advance..
note: please excuse john's potty mouth in the video.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=381973
note: please excuse john's potty mouth in the video.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=381973
09-18-2007, 12:02 AM
#34
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 230
I was gonna order the phenolic intake spacers this week, but then...Power steering fluid leak. A few months ago I had rebuilt ps rack put in so I drove it straight to the dealer. They called later to say its not the rack but a hose. I'm like is it an old hose? They said yeah they left the old hoses on when they changed the rack. I'm thinking if they had asked me if I wanted the dam hoses replaced while they were in there putting in a new rack, tie rods ends and lower control arm for over $1600, I would have said yes. Now they want $315 to fix it. They ordered the part already, so I thinking I'm gonna go pick it up tomorrow and take it to an indy I know to put the hose on.
We had a brief spat over the fluid being brown, I said they should have used ATF, they said it doesn't matter.
My dealer has been very good to me over the years even renting me an Altima last year for the weekend because they kept the car all day on a Friday and then realized they didn't have a part. But $315 is too much for a hose job.
We had a brief spat over the fluid being brown, I said they should have used ATF, they said it doesn't matter.
My dealer has been very good to me over the years even renting me an Altima last year for the weekend because they kept the car all day on a Friday and then realized they didn't have a part. But $315 is too much for a hose job.
09-18-2007, 08:01 AM
#35
I was gonna order the phenolic intake spacers this week, but then...Power steering fluid leak. A few months ago I had rebuilt ps rack put in so I drove it straight to the dealer. They called later to say its not the rack but a hose. I'm like is it an old hose? They said yeah they left the old hoses on when they changed the rack. I'm thinking if they had asked me if I wanted the dam hoses replaced while they were in there putting in a new rack, tie rods ends and lower control arm for over $1600, I would have said yes. Now they want $315 to fix it. They ordered the part already, so I thinking I'm gonna go pick it up tomorrow and take it to an indy I know to put the hose on.
We had a brief spat over the fluid being brown, I said they should have used ATF, they said it doesn't matter.
My dealer has been very good to me over the years even renting me an Altima last year for the weekend because they kept the car all day on a Friday and then realized they didn't have a part. But $315 is too much for a hose job.
We had a brief spat over the fluid being brown, I said they should have used ATF, they said it doesn't matter.
My dealer has been very good to me over the years even renting me an Altima last year for the weekend because they kept the car all day on a Friday and then realized they didn't have a part. But $315 is too much for a hose job.
The hose install itself is not hard at all to do on the VE. Not sure how cramped it is on the VG, but it shouldn't be too hard.
Definitely take your car elsewhere and shop around for the hose if they try to charge you a butt load of money for the parts.
09-18-2007, 01:41 PM
#36
Yes it is! And the high pressure hose is VERY expensive from the dealership. You can get that hose for under $25 elsewhere. I think I remember getting mine for $25 from internetautomart. I called my local dealer and think they said that hose was $130!! I quickly got off the phone with them.
The hose install itself is not hard at all to do on the VE. Not sure how cramped it is on the VG, but it shouldn't be too hard.
Definitely take your car elsewhere and shop around for the hose if they try to charge you a butt load of money for the parts.
The hose install itself is not hard at all to do on the VE. Not sure how cramped it is on the VG, but it shouldn't be too hard.
Definitely take your car elsewhere and shop around for the hose if they try to charge you a butt load of money for the parts.
09-18-2007, 05:32 PM
#37
I had a hard time doing that hose 2 weeks ago. didnt have the right wrench so it made it hard on me. Hose was 26.99 at idiotzone with lifetime warranty. Everywhere else wanted 39.99+
09-18-2007, 07:58 PM
#38
09-19-2007, 08:45 AM
#39
The lowest my tranny temp gauge reads is 100 degrees. Even on 80+ temp days, the tranny temp barely gets up to 120 degrees. On cold winter days, it doesn't come close to ever getting above 100 degrees. It will be best if I bypass my aux tranny cooler during the cold months, but for the past 5 years, I've been too lazy to do it. The shifts are just fine on my VE tranny.
Now back when I first bought my car, I was driving across country over the Flagstaff, AZ mountains in January at 3am! I don't know quite how cold it was outside, but it was around zero degrees if not below. I had a bad Tstat and the stock engine temp needle was reading right around the "C", which I now know means the coolant temp was around 100-120 degrees.
I didn't have an aux tranny cooler then, but I know it was running very cold also. While trying to make my way up steep hills, the car would downshift to 3rd gear, then back to OD, back to 3rd gear, back to OD all within 1 or 2 seconds. Then the P light would start flashing. It didn't flash a code, it just flashed about 20 times and stopped everytime the car downshifted like that.
Ever since fixing the Tstat, I've never had a problem occur like that again. The coldest weather I've driven my car with the tranny cooler installed was single digits while driving in the mountains. It did just fine.
But it's not great for the trans to run that cold all the time. Even though I haven't noticed any problems doesn't mean the tranny isn't struggling in cold weather.
Now back when I first bought my car, I was driving across country over the Flagstaff, AZ mountains in January at 3am! I don't know quite how cold it was outside, but it was around zero degrees if not below. I had a bad Tstat and the stock engine temp needle was reading right around the "C", which I now know means the coolant temp was around 100-120 degrees.
I didn't have an aux tranny cooler then, but I know it was running very cold also. While trying to make my way up steep hills, the car would downshift to 3rd gear, then back to OD, back to 3rd gear, back to OD all within 1 or 2 seconds. Then the P light would start flashing. It didn't flash a code, it just flashed about 20 times and stopped everytime the car downshifted like that.
Ever since fixing the Tstat, I've never had a problem occur like that again. The coldest weather I've driven my car with the tranny cooler installed was single digits while driving in the mountains. It did just fine.
But it's not great for the trans to run that cold all the time. Even though I haven't noticed any problems doesn't mean the tranny isn't struggling in cold weather.
09-19-2007, 09:13 AM
#40
The lowest my tranny temp gauge reads is 100 degrees. Even on 80+ temp days, the tranny temp barely gets up to 120 degrees. On cold winter days, it doesn't come close to ever getting above 100 degrees. It will be best if I bypass my aux tranny cooler during the cold months, but for the past 5 years, I've been too lazy to do it. The shifts are just fine on my VE tranny.
Now back when I first bought my car, I was driving across country over the Flagstaff, AZ mountains in January at 3am! I don't know quite how cold it was outside, but it was around zero degrees if not below. I had a bad Tstat and the stock engine temp needle was reading right around the "C", which I now know means the coolant temp was around 100-120 degrees.
I didn't have an aux tranny cooler then, but I know it was running very cold also. While trying to make my way up steep hills, the car would downshift to 3rd gear, then back to OD, back to 3rd gear, back to OD all within 1 or 2 seconds. Then the P light would start flashing. It didn't flash a code, it just flashed about 20 times and stopped everytime the car downshifted like that.
Ever since fixing the Tstat, I've never had a problem occur like that again. The coldest weather I've driven my car with the tranny cooler installed was single digits while driving in the mountains. It did just fine.
But it's not great for the trans to run that cold all the time. Even though I haven't noticed any problems doesn't mean the tranny isn't struggling in cold weather.
Now back when I first bought my car, I was driving across country over the Flagstaff, AZ mountains in January at 3am! I don't know quite how cold it was outside, but it was around zero degrees if not below. I had a bad Tstat and the stock engine temp needle was reading right around the "C", which I now know means the coolant temp was around 100-120 degrees.
I didn't have an aux tranny cooler then, but I know it was running very cold also. While trying to make my way up steep hills, the car would downshift to 3rd gear, then back to OD, back to 3rd gear, back to OD all within 1 or 2 seconds. Then the P light would start flashing. It didn't flash a code, it just flashed about 20 times and stopped everytime the car downshifted like that.
Ever since fixing the Tstat, I've never had a problem occur like that again. The coldest weather I've driven my car with the tranny cooler installed was single digits while driving in the mountains. It did just fine.
But it's not great for the trans to run that cold all the time. Even though I haven't noticed any problems doesn't mean the tranny isn't struggling in cold weather.
Havent you ever heard of the ole cardboard in front of the radiator trick?
