Bleeding coolant
Bleeding coolant
Why is this thing such a PITA to bleed the cooling system. I just put in a new hose about a week ago. I bleed it and it has been running fine. I took it on the highway for the first time since the new hose. I weas running late and driving slightly aggressive. I got home and noticed it was at 3/4 and the fans were running. It seems to have a ton of air still. As it bleeds it is causing the recovery tank to overflow. I bleed it and bleed it and I can still hear coolant rushing and gurgling in the heatercore. I guess I will open it up tomorrow morning and see what the radiator level looks like.
How are you bleeding it? You should jack the front end up while car is cold and with radiator cap off, start the car, let it warm up and just let the bubbles out make sure you keep filling with coolant. Works like a charm for me..
yeah mine still gurgles in the heater core. I had the front end up on the driveway and the back on the street (culdesac FTW) when i first refilled it after replacing the radiator on thursday. filled it with engine off as much as i could, pulled off the small hose where my bleeder bolt used to be hooked up (now just a barbed elbow connector, as i have that coolant bypassed back to the heater..) and squeezed the big hose until both were leaking coolant, then hooked it up to prevent air from gathering back there. but air can go anywhere and it's probably back there already. But with all these twists and turns, any time a line goes up, then back down, air can catch at the top and gravity pulls the coolant back down, leaving you with an air pocket. If it's an air pocket at the top of the rad, it can self bleed once the pressure hits 13psi, the air will shoot out into the extra tank and that's it. But if the air is anywhere else..., it can be tricky to get it all out.
On the other hand, i notice no side effects of it. Temp needle is normal, CTS works normally as far as i can tell. I don't know what temperature (transmission or engine) decides when to use TC lockup, but my lockup functions normally too.
On the other hand, i notice no side effects of it. Temp needle is normal, CTS works normally as far as i can tell. I don't know what temperature (transmission or engine) decides when to use TC lockup, but my lockup functions normally too.
yeah mine still gurgles in the heater core. I had the front end up on the driveway and the back on the street (culdesac FTW) when i first refilled it after replacing the radiator on thursday. filled it with engine off as much as i could, pulled off the small hose where my bleeder bolt used to be hooked up (now just a barbed elbow connector, as i have that coolant bypassed back to the heater..) and squeezed the big hose until both were leaking coolant, then hooked it up to prevent air from gathering back there. but air can go anywhere and it's probably back there already. But with all these twists and turns, any time a line goes up, then back down, air can catch at the top and gravity pulls the coolant back down, leaving you with an air pocket. If it's an air pocket at the top of the rad, it can self bleed once the pressure hits 13psi, the air will shoot out into the extra tank and that's it. But if the air is anywhere else..., it can be tricky to get it all out.
On the other hand, i notice no side effects of it. Temp needle is normal, CTS works normally as far as i can tell. I don't know what temperature (transmission or engine) decides when to use TC lockup, but my lockup functions normally too.
On the other hand, i notice no side effects of it. Temp needle is normal, CTS works normally as far as i can tell. I don't know what temperature (transmission or engine) decides when to use TC lockup, but my lockup functions normally too.
1001 now, but still a palindrome.
I don't know whose radiator was leaking more, mine or yours. I know that my overflow tank went from MAX to under MIN in the course of 2 days though. That's when I decided to put the car on blocks until the radiator was fixed, because I drive too many miles to be able to have a radiator pop or run empty that many miles from home. I know my way around better than anyone else in my family, except maybe my dad, but he is too lazy to pick me up if my car dies.
I'll keep on the bleeding the coolant utnil it stops gurgling though, shouldn't take too much longer
but i really need to replace all my coolant because it's rather diluted... haven't tested the freeze protection yet but i will tomorrow.
I don't know whose radiator was leaking more, mine or yours. I know that my overflow tank went from MAX to under MIN in the course of 2 days though. That's when I decided to put the car on blocks until the radiator was fixed, because I drive too many miles to be able to have a radiator pop or run empty that many miles from home. I know my way around better than anyone else in my family, except maybe my dad, but he is too lazy to pick me up if my car dies.
I'll keep on the bleeding the coolant utnil it stops gurgling though, shouldn't take too much longer
but i really need to replace all my coolant because it's rather diluted... haven't tested the freeze protection yet but i will tomorrow.
diffusion of heat would be my guess. Even it you have no coolant running through the heater core, heat of surrounding parts will just spread the heat around until everything is hot. plus you have hot coolant just up the line on its way to(or from, can't remember) the wpump so that coolant will heat up the cooler stuff that didn't travel through the heater core.
now, my grandpa's oldsmobile has a defective vacuum system, so the heat ALWAYS blows on that car. it sucks especially when temps are in the 90s outside. he unplugged the A/C assuming the system leaked, but i suspect the "lack of cool air" had more than a little bit to do with the defective vacuum allowing the coolant to flow into the heater core at all times.
now, my grandpa's oldsmobile has a defective vacuum system, so the heat ALWAYS blows on that car. it sucks especially when temps are in the 90s outside. he unplugged the A/C assuming the system leaked, but i suspect the "lack of cool air" had more than a little bit to do with the defective vacuum allowing the coolant to flow into the heater core at all times.
Isn't that what post number 2 says? http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...30&postcount=2
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