RosenKen

I know somebody just posted this, but here we go...

My '93 SE also seems to have issues with lack of power. Sometimes it's really fast and sometimes... it's just fast. My car seems to have the VTC problem, it clicks away a bit after the car is warmed up. I have about 97,000 miles. I want to check all the coils and my factory service manual says I can check resistance only, but since this problem is erratic, I dunno if I will be able to find it doing that. any other checks I can do, or is there any other thing I should be checking?

I just filled up my tranny with Redline MT90 yesterday, gotta love that stuff

MILLENIUM MAX

man my 92se spd does the samething man sometimes its fast and sometimes it feels lazy especialy during acceleration i'm trying to figure the out myself,this problem makes me feel like selling the car and getting a 4 gen max.

flyry110

I also have this problem. Mine seems to run much better on cold days also. it's aggravating. Mine also seems to have a lack of power right after long trips.

bmxsteve

Man, I might as well speak up....I got a '92 SE auto and I have the same problem.(p.s.~i also have the vtc problem, i dont know if that has anything to do with the problem though) In the morning when the engine is cold the thing is fast, but after the car is warmed up it seems slugish and not as powerful. I took mine to the dealer and he couldnt find anything wrong with it. They drove it and said thats how they normally are. But I dont understand why its soo much faster when its cold. I thought it was suppose to be the other way around.....

~Steve

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

more power on a cold engine is almost always the case..

the way an engine runs is because of the difference in temperature of burned and unburned gasses.. the hotter an engine is, the lower the difference in temperature, thus lower power...
ALL engines will run better when it's cold.
the tranny runs slower though, because the fluid is much thicker and it eats up the power. I can definitely tell a difference in my automatic, and on my old mitsu truck, 2nd gear was a joke until the engine was warm.. I'd have to shift from 1st to 3rd for the first 15 min it was alive, because it just wouldn't go into 2nd until the fluid heated up.

flyry110

Not trying to insult you but i know about the whole cold engine thing. Sometimes after a lond drive while the engine is still hot, i'll start it back up and it'll have gobs of power all day long. then i'll park it, then next day, even when the motor is cold, it's feeling like it's lagging. i'm running slightly lighter manual tranny fluid than i should, so i know it's not that. It feels like it's about to break out and fly, but it just can't. it's wierd

DDD

Hi guys,
Could you please give some more detailed info on:
- what is the difference between the "cold" and "hot" engine?
- how much time it takes to get "hot" condition from the "cold" condition?
- did you notice any difference between winter and summer performance?

Regards,
DDD

max95q

iTrader: (10)

and also, (I dont know about on your cars) but on my car, when a 1/4 tank is in my car I get way better acceleration. Of course because of the weight loss, but its always at 1/4 tank or less I have better acceleration.

RosenKen

Have you guys replaced your O2 sensor at all?

bmxsteve

Guys, I thought it could be the O2 sensor too, but I took mine to the dealer and had them try to figure out the problem...they told me if it was the o2 sensor bad that the engine check light would be on..They couldnt find a thing wrong with mine..but i got the same problem. ~Steve

1994 se lover

i thought i might as well join the club which i already am in.. =0P
i got the same problem...it doesnt even happen just the warm and cold temps... its one day to another ... im working on the problem ...ill let everyone know what happens..IF i fix it.

later

RosenKen

The check engine light is not to be taken seriously. It will only tell you if it's getting very abnormal inputs from the various sensors. If it lights up and the code checks, you will definitely have to replace the sensor. But, sensors can be bad without illuminating the check engine light. O2 sensors will send a voltage depending on how much oxygen they sense. If the sensor is off, it could be sending the wrong voltage, but yet it will still be in the parameters that will NOT set off the check engine light.

The funny part is, is if you go out and UNPLUG your O2 sensor, your engine won't even know. It'll just think it's running really clean or something.

subs1000w

same frustrating problem with my 92 se 5spd and it happed almost as much last winter as this summer and it will run good in the heat if its the first drive of the day i cant imagine the air temp could make my engine lose like 30hp but who knows, all i know is i would spend alot of money to fix it if i knew what to fix

JDwyer2821

Maybe it is time for a ****load of Header wrap and a intercooler. Also could this be from the Cat?

RosenKen

I just realized I started this thread 9 months ago. I have learned a done a LOT since then. There is NO heat soak issue. There is a car that is getting older issue. Check all your electrical connections in your engine (unplug and look in) for corrosion. Clean it with electrical cleaner and dab a small amount of dielectric grease into them. Also, replace your oxygen and knock sensors. This is in addition to normal stuff, ie replace your fuel and air filters, spark plugs with new NGK plats, PCV valve, etc.

These cars are fussy and sometimes expensive to work on. To own one and keep it in good health, you have to put up the cash. The reward is evident. My car runs about flawlessly now at 130K, just need a new knock sensor eventually.

Bryan91SE

If you haven't, check this thread, it's right on point.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=137384

G3Max

nm

Bryan91SE

Personally, I feel the knock sensor is a hunch. There is a computer code that will appear if one fails. I wouldn't replace it unless it gave me a code, especially with it being difficult to get to. Like I said, the improvement from bumping up my timing fixed the problem for me. A few months ago, I also cleaned the ECTS, which may have helped too.

Shadow1198

iTrader: (1)

There are lots of little things that can malfunction or just not work quite right and add up to a noticeable loss of power. Lately, I've been thinking the knock sensor could be a big part of it. I mean, think about it. If the KS has corrosion on it or is dirty, it could send the wrong signal which would trick the ECU into thinking the engine is knocking, and it would retard the timing down to as low as 8 degrees (I think 8 was the lowest). That could account for the sporadic loss of power it seems is common with 3rd gen's. I know my GXE needs an o2 sensor BAD, and I am replacing it this week.

Leo

I believe, in my opinion, that if this car didn't have a ECU or any of its electronical sensors, it would be a furious machine.

D-sta

iTrader: (6)

I had the same problem, it went away when I installed my ASP UDP, I never get that heat soak problem which makes the engine sluggish. In the morning when the car is cold it feels good and then when it warms up it still feels good after I installed the ASP UDP. I would do the pulley since it gets rid of this problem and gives you performance at the same time.