I just installed a new Mandrel Aluminized Y-Pipe from Dallas at Warpspeedperformance.com. Just for the record, the customer service alone is worth buying a product from WSP. I decided to install the Y Pipe myself. The installation process was a little frustrating for me, just because I have limited knowledge about exhaust systems. But, it was definitely worth it. Dallas at WSP helped me A LOT.
The results? Oh well, uh...I'm speechless. It surprised me how much of a gain I got.
The added power is pretty much all over. Low, Mid and High end. I have been measuring my car's performance with my brothers 2000 Honda Accord EX V6 4dr Auto. Originally, he would get me by 3 or 4 car lengths by the time we reach 70mph. (That was with a warm engine) Now, he only got me by a 1/2 car length at 70 mph. That's when we quit because I still wanna be safe. This race was with a cooler engine...about 10 minutes after a cold startup. I couldn't believe it. We launched out of hole about the same and then we stayed the same all the way through 1st gear. Then, at 45 mph, I shifted into 2nd and he pulled ahead by a half car length, where it stayed the same up until we quit at 70 mph. I was yelling out my window, I was so excited.
I still have the complete stock exhaust setup. I have only changed my Y-pipe. Right at startup, I could tell a deeper rumble was coming out of my muffler. It's not any louder...it just sounds a lot better. At WOT, the new Y-pipe makes no difference in noise...that may be due to my intake making so much noise, I just can't hear it. But, it sounds great. The noise at low end, sounds pretty much the same as stock.
So, anybody that wants more power, but doesn't want your exhaust to get ANY louder; go with the Y-pipe. You'll love it. Everybody is right when they say, the intake and Y-pipe are the best mods you can get for our Maximas. Thanks for reading my review of the Warpspeed Y-Pipe. If you have any questions .... ask away.
The results? Oh well, uh...I'm speechless. It surprised me how much of a gain I got.
The added power is pretty much all over. Low, Mid and High end. I have been measuring my car's performance with my brothers 2000 Honda Accord EX V6 4dr Auto. Originally, he would get me by 3 or 4 car lengths by the time we reach 70mph. (That was with a warm engine) Now, he only got me by a 1/2 car length at 70 mph. That's when we quit because I still wanna be safe. This race was with a cooler engine...about 10 minutes after a cold startup. I couldn't believe it. We launched out of hole about the same and then we stayed the same all the way through 1st gear. Then, at 45 mph, I shifted into 2nd and he pulled ahead by a half car length, where it stayed the same up until we quit at 70 mph. I was yelling out my window, I was so excited.I still have the complete stock exhaust setup. I have only changed my Y-pipe. Right at startup, I could tell a deeper rumble was coming out of my muffler. It's not any louder...it just sounds a lot better. At WOT, the new Y-pipe makes no difference in noise...that may be due to my intake making so much noise, I just can't hear it. But, it sounds great. The noise at low end, sounds pretty much the same as stock.
So, anybody that wants more power, but doesn't want your exhaust to get ANY louder; go with the Y-pipe. You'll love it. Everybody is right when they say, the intake and Y-pipe are the best mods you can get for our Maximas. Thanks for reading my review of the Warpspeed Y-Pipe. If you have any questions .... ask away.
Senior Member
thanks for the information Aaron. i've been saving up my money to start getting some mods for my `93 SE. how much did the y-pipe cost and how long did the installation take?
Quote:
Originally posted by krazyd
thanks for the information Aaron. i've been saving up my money to start getting some mods for my `93 SE. how much did the y-pipe cost and how long did the installation take?
The prices are all on www.warpspeedperformance.com . My Mandrel Alum Y-pipe was $225 plus $17.50 shipping. It's a very easy install. It should only take you 2 hours. If you have any questions about the install, I will give you some tips that will help you get through it easier. Just email me or send me a mesage.Originally posted by krazyd
thanks for the information Aaron. i've been saving up my money to start getting some mods for my `93 SE. how much did the y-pipe cost and how long did the installation take?
Senior Member
ummm.... I am going to go ahead and ask what is wrong with your car? I can run with an accord V6 coupe all day long, in fact beating them at Seattle International Raceway a bunch of times. What is up with your car? I have a 92 SE Auto, which means we have inherently the same car. My stock run, with nothing done, and full interior, was a 16.4
Since then I have a Catco Hi flow cat, Greddy SP Catback exhaust with removed resonator, Place Racing CAI, Advanced timing, and my best is now a 15.7
I have killed many of the new auto V6 Hondas. I am trying to figure out why yours is so slow?
Plus, mine has over 155,000 miles now.
Since then I have a Catco Hi flow cat, Greddy SP Catback exhaust with removed resonator, Place Racing CAI, Advanced timing, and my best is now a 15.7
I have killed many of the new auto V6 Hondas. I am trying to figure out why yours is so slow?
Plus, mine has over 155,000 miles now.
Quote:
Originally posted by Dirksmoothe
ummm.... I am going to go ahead and ask what is wrong with your car? I can run with an accord V6 coupe all day long, in fact beating them at Seattle International Raceway a bunch of times. What is up with your car? I have a 92 SE Auto, which means we have inherently the same car. My stock run, with nothing done, and full interior, was a 16.4
Since then I have a Catco Hi flow cat, Greddy SP Catback exhaust with removed resonator, Place Racing CAI, Advanced timing, and my best is now a 15.7
I have killed many of the new auto V6 Hondas. I am trying to figure out why yours is so slow?
Plus, mine has over 155,000 miles now.
16.4 1/4 mile is normal for Seattle. The elevation there is sea level..right? At the Las Vegas Drag Strip, the elevation is about 3000 feet. That is roughly 3 tenths I should gain, just in elevation alone. Originally posted by Dirksmoothe
ummm.... I am going to go ahead and ask what is wrong with your car? I can run with an accord V6 coupe all day long, in fact beating them at Seattle International Raceway a bunch of times. What is up with your car? I have a 92 SE Auto, which means we have inherently the same car. My stock run, with nothing done, and full interior, was a 16.4
Since then I have a Catco Hi flow cat, Greddy SP Catback exhaust with removed resonator, Place Racing CAI, Advanced timing, and my best is now a 15.7
I have killed many of the new auto V6 Hondas. I am trying to figure out why yours is so slow?
Plus, mine has over 155,000 miles now.
The stock numbers on a 2000 V6 Accord EX Auto is a 15.7 1/4 mile. How can your 16.4 1/4 mile run with a 15.7 1/4 mile car. He should beat a stock Maxima in the 1/4 mile.
Quote:
Originally posted by Aaron92SE
He should beat a stock Maxima in the 1/4 mile.
not true, stock for stock Accord V6 and VE 3rd gen are rather equal with low 16 1/4th miles...my friends stock Accord was never anywhere near running a 15.7...his best at stock was 16.37...thats plenty of comp for a stock VE Max!Originally posted by Aaron92SE
He should beat a stock Maxima in the 1/4 mile.
Senior Member
those stock numbers are with pro's drivin' them. No accounting for a 16 year old with moms car.
Also, I have beaten them, I can get a hold of one of them to chat with you if I must. hahahah... jk. I know you believe me.
and, My car in current form, nas beaten a coupe V6 auto with a AEM CAI and an exhaust of some form, not sure which one.
So... I think that the speed of those cars is much exagerated. Just think about it. they may have 200 hp,(ours has 190) but our torque is greater then theres.
I am simply stating what I know about my car and who I race. that is it.
Also, I have beaten them, I can get a hold of one of them to chat with you if I must. hahahah... jk. I know you believe me.
and, My car in current form, nas beaten a coupe V6 auto with a AEM CAI and an exhaust of some form, not sure which one.
So... I think that the speed of those cars is much exagerated. Just think about it. they may have 200 hp,(ours has 190) but our torque is greater then theres.
I am simply stating what I know about my car and who I race. that is it.
Quote:
Originally posted by DA-MAX
not true, stock for stock Accord V6 and VE 3rd gen are rather equal with low 16 1/4th miles...my friends stock Accord was never anywhere near running a 15.7...his best at stock was 16.37...thats plenty of comp for a stock VE Max!
Well, I know my car is not slow at all b/c it ran stock numbers at 3000' elevation. I think that's amazing.Originally posted by DA-MAX
not true, stock for stock Accord V6 and VE 3rd gen are rather equal with low 16 1/4th miles...my friends stock Accord was never anywhere near running a 15.7...his best at stock was 16.37...thats plenty of comp for a stock VE Max!
Quote:
Originally posted by Dirksmoothe
So... I think that the speed of those cars is much exagerated. Just think about it. they may have 200 hp,(ours has 190) but our torque is greater then theres.
not true, V6 Accord has 195ft @ 4700.....the only prob is that its hits too late in the power band(4700 rpm), classic Vtec... "no down low power until its too late" Originally posted by Dirksmoothe
So... I think that the speed of those cars is much exagerated. Just think about it. they may have 200 hp,(ours has 190) but our torque is greater then theres.

Actually that high of elevation will add a full second almost. Brian V ran at Palmdale where the elevation is 2900ft and he kept a steady 15.3 where as at Pomona he can easily run 14.3's all day long. And might I add he has a VQ 5 speed just about fully modded with all the bolt ons.
Senior Member
okey dokey, so am I just an a s s or something, maybe I should keep my mouth closed.
I am all confused. am I wrong. I think that I am wrong... Not sure though.
I am all confused. am I wrong. I think that I am wrong... Not sure though.
No dude, No harm was taken by anyone. You were just curious it seems. But the higher the altitude the thinner the air thus lower ET's. It could range from atleast .40 to 1.00 secs off.
but 1/4 times don't mean squat when you're actually racing another car at the same elevation.. BOTH cars are the same proportion slower at high altitude (unless you're running boost. ;-) )
also remember some cars just run better than others.. my GXE with only intake and Y pipe could keep up with (if not outrun) another member's Max with CAI, Y, ECU, bored throttle body, and some other mods.
Dyno numbers were also very close.. on our first dyno, I actually had more power than he did BEFORE I put the Y pipe on.
also remember some cars just run better than others.. my GXE with only intake and Y pipe could keep up with (if not outrun) another member's Max with CAI, Y, ECU, bored throttle body, and some other mods.
Dyno numbers were also very close.. on our first dyno, I actually had more power than he did BEFORE I put the Y pipe on.
Senior Member
Quote:
Originally posted by dmontzmax
No dude, No harm was taken by anyone. You were just curious it seems. But the higher the altitude the thinner the air thus lower ET's. It could range from atleast .40 to 1.00 secs off.
Dude if your higher up and the air is thinner (meaning less O2 to burn), you should be running lower 1/4 times. Doesnt that make sense?Originally posted by dmontzmax
No dude, No harm was taken by anyone. You were just curious it seems. But the higher the altitude the thinner the air thus lower ET's. It could range from atleast .40 to 1.00 secs off.
Quote:
Originally posted by eric93SE
Dude if your higher up and the air is thinner (meaning less O2 to burn), you should be running lower 1/4 times. Doesnt that make sense?
huh?? I never heard of that....from what I've known higher altitude has always lead to higher ETs, I've never heard nor SEEN the opposite?? Originally posted by eric93SE
Dude if your higher up and the air is thinner (meaning less O2 to burn), you should be running lower 1/4 times. Doesnt that make sense?

Quote:
Originally posted by eric93SE
Dude if your higher up and the air is thinner (meaning less O2 to burn), you should be running lower 1/4 times. Doesnt that make sense?
hmmm, not too sure on that. It might be true. But, I know that the thinner the air, the slower the car. Maybe this out weighs the less o2 idea.Originally posted by eric93SE
Dude if your higher up and the air is thinner (meaning less O2 to burn), you should be running lower 1/4 times. Doesnt that make sense?
Senior Member
Quote:
Originally posted by Maximamike
Nice interior too..
Thats one thing that keeps me thinking about getting a 4th or 5th gen. They have a much more respectable looking dash. In 3rd gens, its like you are staring at a wall in front of you, rather than something that reaches around you.Originally posted by Maximamike
Nice interior too..
Member
I'm saving up for a Y pipe as well. I was thinking of getting it from Budget but I think I rather get a Mandrel bent pipe for 30 bucks more. But what is the difference with these two materials? One last longer than the other? Or one tends to rust more easily?
Senior Member
ya think so? i always kinda liked the way the 3rd gen dash
looked... simple and clean... but it is a lil old fashioned
thats what my new carbon fiber kit is for
looked... simple and clean... but it is a lil old fashioned
thats what my new carbon fiber kit is for

Quote:
Originally posted by Czar
Thats one thing that keeps me thinking about getting a 4th or 5th gen. They have a much more respectable looking dash. In 3rd gens, its like you are staring at a wall in front of you, rather than something that reaches around you.
Originally posted by Czar
Thats one thing that keeps me thinking about getting a 4th or 5th gen. They have a much more respectable looking dash. In 3rd gens, its like you are staring at a wall in front of you, rather than something that reaches around you.
Senior Member
maxmonkey, Remember this about exhaust systems. You OE system is probably still not rusted through. Mine went about a year and a half back, it had spent its entire life here in Minnesota, with lots of salt on road. Personally, I would go with the aluminized. It will certainly last 7+ years, probably longer than your car. Dallas and I think that the little extra you pay for mandrel bent is worth it. Please let us know if we can be of assistance.
Dan WSP
Dan WSP
Member
Hey Dan, I'll get the aluminized mandrel bent y as soon as I have enough dough for it. But then why would anyone pay 299 for 304 stainless? In the mean time, I'll be ordering the CAI sometime this weekend when I have free time.
Quote:
Originally posted by maxmonkey
Hey Dan, I'll get the aluminized mandrel bent y as soon as I have enough dough for it. But then why would anyone pay 299 for 304 stainless? In the mean time, I'll be ordering the CAI sometime this weekend when I have free time.
People who want the added confidence with a SS Exhaust. I think it's just because so they can say, "Have a a full Stainless Steel Exhaust system!" That's all I can think of.Originally posted by maxmonkey
Hey Dan, I'll get the aluminized mandrel bent y as soon as I have enough dough for it. But then why would anyone pay 299 for 304 stainless? In the mean time, I'll be ordering the CAI sometime this weekend when I have free time.
Senior Member
Quote:
Originally posted by Matt93SE
well your stock exhaust is aluminized steel.. and how long has it lasted?
hmmmmmmmm.
Originally posted by Matt93SE
well your stock exhaust is aluminized steel.. and how long has it lasted?
hmmmmmmmm.
i have an 89, there isnt a leak anywhere
True, It lasted about 9 years and then begun to rust very bad and start creating wholes and leaks. But with SS I dont think I will ever have to worry. I guess it is mostly preference also, and at the same time budget. If you dont have the extra cash I would say go alluminized. But if you dont mind the little extra you cant go wrong with 304 SS.
If you take into consideration where in the world you live, that will play a big part. If you live in Las Vegas, like me, where it never rains and salt is not a problem .... Aluminized is the way to go. As said earlier, if you live in an area that has nothing but snow and salt on the road, that could corrode your exhaust system much faster and SS would be the way to go. My car has been in Vegas all it's life according to CarFax. So, my exhaust system was in great condition and the nuts were really easy to break loose.
Senior Member
I have been having trouble beating my friends 1994 Accord EX ("the Sportiest Accord") mostly because of my shifting. I think that until you really know how to shift you car in racing conditions, having a stick holds you back more than it helps. Now, I will be the first to say that since I have quote on quote "mastered" shifting I feel like I could beat him, it took me a while to not see red tails while racing him (I was 1/2 a length back). flame on...
Quote:
Originally posted by Pickwick
I have been having trouble beating my friends 1994 Accord EX ("the Sportiest Accord") mostly because of my shifting.
yeah the 5spd Accords are kinda quick....140hp and mid/high 16's in the 1/4th(I even saw one run a ~16.3 with intake and exhaust last week at the track), but I've tangled with a few ~93-95 5spds one of them had an intake and I couldn't beat him by more than a 1/4th panel-1/2 car.....IMO I found the 5spd Accords to be the best match for my VG auto, neither really gains or loses in stoplight racing! but I think a VG 5spd could easily take one all the way like you said "if shifting is mastered"! don't worry you'll beat him! Originally posted by Pickwick
I have been having trouble beating my friends 1994 Accord EX ("the Sportiest Accord") mostly because of my shifting.

Senior Member
Quote:
Originally posted by dmontzmax
What year is your Max? You must have a bone stock VG?
Yea, I have a 1990 se. It's stock, but I have two stickers.Originally posted by dmontzmax
What year is your Max? You must have a bone stock VG?
Senior Member
Aaron93SE
Did you have to remove anything else to get the stock Y-pipe off (Other than the o2 sensor). And how is the fit (have to bend stuff to line it up, etc). Does it bolt onto the cat or must it be welded?
Did you have to remove anything else to get the stock Y-pipe off (Other than the o2 sensor). And how is the fit (have to bend stuff to line it up, etc). Does it bolt onto the cat or must it be welded?
Quote:
Originally posted by maxmizd27
Aaron93SE
Did you have to remove anything else to get the stock Y-pipe off (Other than the o2 sensor). And how is the fit (have to bend stuff to line it up, etc). Does it bolt onto the cat or must it be welded?
Ok, it's 92SE. Originally posted by maxmizd27
Aaron93SE
Did you have to remove anything else to get the stock Y-pipe off (Other than the o2 sensor). And how is the fit (have to bend stuff to line it up, etc). Does it bolt onto the cat or must it be welded?
Besides the o2 sensor, you have to remove two metal shields around the front flange. And you have to unbolt a bracket harness at the Cat along with the two Cat nuts.
That didn't sound too well thought out. You'll see what you have to remove when you start undoing nuts. After you get the heat shield metal panel thingys out of the way, undo the 3 nuts and bolts at each flange. And two at the Cat. There will be 8 nuts that actually hold the Y-pipe in place. The rest of the bolts will be little flange shield thingys. As for the Cat, you will put on a new gasket and bolt it hand tight. Just put that metal harness bracket thing back on and hook back up to the rubber harnesses. You will get two donut gaskets that go at the Y-pipe and flange connection, and one cat gasket.
As for the fit, it bolted up perfectly. All the holes matched right up. Just make sure your o2 sensor is in the clear before you drive it. NO welding is required AT ALL. It's an easy install. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.
Quote:
Originally posted by dmontzmax
Now tell him about the throttle response
I can proudly say that the WSP Mandrel Y-pipe was WELL worth it. I feel the added power all over. It launches better, it takes off after 3500. And then it takes off more at 5200. So far, there are no drawbacks. I like the deeper tone coming out of my muffler at idle. I can now keep up with or beat cars I never thought was possible with adding only one mod.Originally posted by dmontzmax
Now tell him about the throttle response
Senior Member
Sounds sweet. I got much improved throttle response with the UDP already. Between a UDP, ECU, Cat-back, intake, add a y-pipe and a new un-clogged cat and maxmizd oughta fly! I just might decide not to sell it after all.
This is very good info there chief. There's been a lot of talk lately about who's got the best y-pipe for quality and fitment. Thanks much!
This is very good info there chief. There's been a lot of talk lately about who's got the best y-pipe for quality and fitment. Thanks much!
I can easily say that WSP has the best customer service I have ever had in my life. Dallas really looks after his customers. And the quality is really outstanding. One thing I took into consideration before ordering was how low the pipe goes. Warpspeed has really been trying to get the pipe as high up as they can so there is no problem against the sway bar. I have heard Cattman Y-pipes bang against the sway bar. I can't say too much about Cattman b/c I have never dealt with them.
But, do what I did... do a search, email different people that have the product and ask them what they think. WSP came out on top after my research was done. I NEVER saw one complaint about WSP that was posted on the org. Happy shopping!
But, do what I did... do a search, email different people that have the product and ask them what they think. WSP came out on top after my research was done. I NEVER saw one complaint about WSP that was posted on the org. Happy shopping!