I'm thinking of picking up another third gen as a beater. This is a '93 (I think) with a VQ (no 4DSC badging) and a slushbox.
I've looked over the car, but have not had a chance to drive it. It's got 157,000 miles, the paint is starting to fade on the roof and hood, the cloth interior is amazing for a car this age. They are asking $1500.
Are there any issues specific to the VQ or the auto that I should be aware of? I owned a '92 SE for awhile, but that had a different motor and a 5 speed.

 

Your 92 SE was a VE...If the motor is different in this car it is a VG. The slushboxes in these cars aren't the greatest, so check the fluid and make sure it shifts smoothly. Check all of the usual things, I'd inspect the control arm bushings to see if they are rotted away. If there is any rust on it check under the rear wheel wells / behind the rear seat where the seatbelts anchor and around the gas filler neck. Also check for torn CV /steering rack boots. Oh, and find out when the timing belt was changed last.

 

VQ didn't start until 95.

VG has a weak automatic trans and a timing belt that snaps and takes the motor with it, if it isn't changed on time.

 

I would be wary of a VG automatic unless you have proof it was well taken care of or rebuilt with a warranty.

Same thing with the T-belt. Evidence of the last replacement or lower the price enough to get it done.

 

My VG auto works. Today. Dunno about tomorrow with the reputation of the tranny. But I went ahead and had my tbelt done this july, at 150K miles, for a total cost of $350. I was unsure of how to do it. If and when I ever need to do another VG tbelt i'll be fine to do it myself.

however, i was raped. HARD. on the price. I paid $3000 a year and a half ago and it had 143k then. The day i drove it off the lot... scratch that.. the MINUTE i drove it off the lot, the speedo went dead. it's got broken studs, had a PS leak, has bad bushings, and a sticky odometer motor. So the actual mileage may be significantly higher.

 

Don't forgert VTCs. Start the car let it get warm don't rev it. Somewhere between cold and warm you might get a a rattling in the top of the moter. The rattling in question will sound like jumping beans in a empty cookie tin. If the car goes all the way up to reg. operating temp and no rattling your ok.

 

vtc's clankig sounds come at most when they are first going out at start up and when cold. As a friend of mine i recently helped get a 92 VE5 and his was bad even after warm up it would clank so i grounded his vtc's till we can get in there and rebuild the vtc's. and yeah liek they said power steering leaks which is a big commen on the VE's maximas and even the vg's also control arm bushings on the passanger side of the vehicle as it seems when you have P/S leaking it eats away the factory control arm bushing. i have that problem and my friends 92 has that problem. also if it is a VE check the coil on plug coils for cracks or burn marks.

 

Thanks for all the replies. I test drove it yesterday.
My results:
CV Joints: Gone
Heater Core: dead and bypassed
Transmission: Shifted really, really badly

I elected not to take this dog home.

 

Oops, got the motors mixed up. Thanks for the correction.