Ok, I feel kinda noobish for this. But in an earlier thread it was mentioned that changing the PCV valve was part of a regular tuneup. So I went ahead and bought one as i'm trying to fix whatever I can to help my emissions.

I cant find anything in the stickies as to it's location, and the autozone site hasnt been much help either (except to say it's IN the intake manifold)

So really.. I have a new valve, but i have no clue where its supposed to go.

I'm assuming pulling the manifold is not part of a regular tuneup? Or, is it easier to do on the VG rather than the VE?

 

I'm not sure where it is on the VE, but the guys at the parts store should be able to point it out to you. If its a good store that has knowledgeable guys that are nice. If not Id go some where else.

~Alex

 

 

......public /dir please? ;x

 

gapboi210 needs to shut it..






Thanks MGM94

 

Thankyou GreenMax. Looks like a little more work than I was thinking. I'll save my pcv valve and do it with the KS and valve cover gaskets in the near future.

 

Well,the picture shown was from my spare ve engine with intake/lots-o-other crap removed,you don't have to remove all that to get to it,just access to ratchet extensions/deep well socket/and a swivel joint are about all you need.The biggest pita imo about removing the pcv is access to the hose clamp.

 

Hmm.. interesting. Well i've got a full ratchet kit, so maybe i'll give it a shot tomrorow.

 

I found the only way to get at the clamp is with those long, bent needle nose pliers. They have to be 11-12" long and they'll just get to the clamp. Since the hose is oily, it slides off and on with a little twist after you squeeze the clamp.

 

I've done it twice with normal needle nose pliers and a regular ratchet (no swivel needed) with a long extension. It's not too hard, I can't remember if I used a 9" or a 12" extension. Oh, and you need the deep spark plug remover kind of socket to remove it, the regular sockets won't reach over the end of the pcv valve. If you don't have one you can pick up a set anywhere. Just make sure you get metric!

 

Another tip, make sure you tighten it just snug, dont wanna force it and strip the threads

 

thankee. I was wondering about that as the one i got from automar was a bit longer I think so there was still about 5mm of threads exposed. I was originally thinking I had cross threaded it.

and my god, that stupid metal clamp hose was a pita. It ended up flying across my garage and getting lost while I tried to put it back on. I ended up just using a zip tie on it until I can get a new one.

 

Your EGR got shipped out of tonawanda via UPS yesterday.

 

Eh those old OEM "squeeze" clamps are annoying, just go to an autoparts store and get a pack of clamps for 2-3 bucks...4-5 CAN bucks for you

 

Are there breathers for like the crank case?
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...egoryCode=5001
ive seen solme on hondas???? but idont knoe

 

not like that...

 

so are there any breather filters? if so can u show me...

 

on a vg it's the 2 tubes going out of the dualduct so it's filtered through the main air filter

 

HUH?

so can it be replaced wit a breather or not?

 

if you pulled those 2 rubber hoses off and plugged the holes on the dualduct and the vaccuum port for the rear breather hose, then removed the rear breather hose over the valve cover, you could then attach breather filters, if so desired. but since air that blows into the crankcase displaces air through the PCV valve, which in turn enters the intake manifold and then cylinders.... I believe it is best to leave it as it is such that all crankcase ventilation air is accounted for by the MAF.

 

ok

 

you mean thanks

 

Wrong on that score .............

ANY air entering the motor via any route other than the MAF body is not accounted for by the MAF and as a result you will most likely tend to run lean.

If however you are lucky enough to run with an o2 sensor, (that we here in South Africa do not have) that situation can partially be offset.

The engine was not designed to cater for any significant amount of blow-by causing crank pressure and thus effective leaning of the mixtureThat is physically impossible - the filter is way upstream of the entry points for the crank vent tubes

 

WHAT?!?!?!?
Air entering the valve covers through the breather he wants would NOT cause it to run lean or rich or change the air/fuel ratio any.
if it were thru the intake system, yeah.

 

We talking cross purposes? - read capedcadaver's last post again as whole ................ to me it sounded like he was under the impression that crankcase ventilation is normally accounted for by the MAF - especially given his other post .........................

Perhaps I chose the wrong wording myself too :

Should have read "Any air entering the intake..............."

 

but is it not true that air goes into the filter, past the MAF, down the black S pipe, into the dualduct, out the 2 "breather" outlets, into hoses, into the valve covers, down into the crankcase, back up through the PCV valve, into the intake manifold, and into the cylinders?

 

Sure - but in the VG's case, only the calibrated and wanted PCV sump scavenging air follows that route and gets sucked into the cylinders - when you have serious blow-by you actually start "pushing" (PCV overwhelmed) blow-by air from the sump back to the fat hose connected above the TB - ie - unmetered air gets ingested by the motor.

On worn motors (and also when you have a funky PCV valve) you can often affect a smoother/better idle by blocking the sump breathing to the intake manifold completely (killing the unwanted airflow generated by large amounts of blow-by).

On older PCV designs (eg Ford V6) the sump was effectively held under a small bit of vacuum (because the sump was not connected to the intake/atmosphere like with the VG) - often used to keep oil in the engine on leaky seals

 

so is it ok or posible to add on a or some breathers?

 

Unless you have a seriously worn engine with lots of blow-by making your life a misery, I wouldn't do that even though it is possible.
The PCV idea is very sound as it removes most harmful gasses etc from the engine internals where it can form sludge etc in the oil ................ this may actually be part of the VG motor's secret of longevity.

Also - Chances are you will not pass MOT etc if you do decide to fit a separate breather system.

 

hey which brand is a good pvc valve?

 

Beck/Arnley

 

Ok, I think I have a VG motor, the car is a '90. Where and how do I clean/service the PCV?