What to do next?
03-27-2008, 07:32 AM
#1
What to do next?
I am in the process of getting my 90 max gxe pimped out so i need some opinions on what to do next.
i have already have KYB's all around, 18" wheels, boomin system.
I was looking at these options
WSP y-pipe
Eibach springs
I need 2 new tires ( i know most people will say get the tires for safety reasons) this is pretty much a given so I guess its down to those 2 items.
i have already have KYB's all around, 18" wheels, boomin system.
I was looking at these options
WSP y-pipe
Eibach springs
I need 2 new tires ( i know most people will say get the tires for safety reasons) this is pretty much a given so I guess its down to those 2 items.
03-27-2008, 07:35 AM
#2
If your tires are done, go ahead and buy the springs and tires and get a good alignment.
But being a 90, I'm going to bet you'll need more than just new springs. take a look at suspension bushings and ball joints and etc. if they're worn out, you'll blow through tires like a 500hp mustang and the car will handle like crap. no point in modding if it isn't safe to drive.
But being a 90, I'm going to bet you'll need more than just new springs. take a look at suspension bushings and ball joints and etc. if they're worn out, you'll blow through tires like a 500hp mustang and the car will handle like crap. no point in modding if it isn't safe to drive.
03-27-2008, 07:52 AM
#4
the first obvious sign is a 'wandering' front end. hit a bump or ruts/ridges in the road surface and the car changes direction, even though you didn't turn the wheel.
when they get real bad, you'll feel play in the steering wheel or hear clunking in the suspension.
when they get real bad, you'll feel play in the steering wheel or hear clunking in the suspension.
03-27-2008, 07:56 AM
#5
well i have none of that....I should have been given more detail why I need 2 tires.. i got the wheels and tires from a friend of mine and he just put 2 new tires on and the other 2 need tires but not cause of wear from my car
03-27-2008, 09:05 AM
#7
It has no leaks and is in great running condition it just rolled over on 100k last week. Bought from and older gentleman for $1500 3 years ago with only 70k on. Timing belt, belts, hoses, I had them all changed when i bought the car. Have been using mobile 1 syn, K&N air filter, new fuel injectors last summer.
03-27-2008, 09:09 AM
#9
sounds like you're doing good to me!!
pardon our "fix your car first" bandwagon, but we see so many n00bs come in here and tell us they're putting a turbo or bodykit or coilovers on the car... Then 5 min later whine in another thread that they can't afford to change the oil or do a brake job. Just to give oyu a bit of background why we're saying what we are.
If the car's in good running condition and all maintenance is taken care of, then by all means, mod the hell out of the car. have fun.
just make sure you stay on top of the required stuff before you sink funds from a limited budget on toys.
pardon our "fix your car first" bandwagon, but we see so many n00bs come in here and tell us they're putting a turbo or bodykit or coilovers on the car... Then 5 min later whine in another thread that they can't afford to change the oil or do a brake job. Just to give oyu a bit of background why we're saying what we are.
If the car's in good running condition and all maintenance is taken care of, then by all means, mod the hell out of the car. have fun.
just make sure you stay on top of the required stuff before you sink funds from a limited budget on toys.
03-27-2008, 09:14 AM
#10
Control arm bushings mainly. they're the biggest bushing wear item on the Maxima, especially the right side bushing. The Max is prone to leaking oil from the front main seal/oilpan seal as well as power steering fluid from a myriad of locations- most of which can never be seen.. the damn fluid just appears out of nowhere.
anyway, the big problem is the bushings are made of natural rubber, which eventually breaks down upon contact with oil and power steering fluid (Auto tranny fluid us ised for power steering systems in Nissans).. so the bushing basically dissolves and leaves metal-on-metal contact in there.
generally you wind up replacing those bushigs around 120k miles.. that's the average mark I'd guess. My car's been through several sets (and 6 transmissions and at least 2 engines since I've owned it), but it's also a track toy and has 250k on the clock. I drive it hard, so I expect things like that to fail often on my car.
on a well-maintained grandpa-owned car with 100k on the clock, your bushings and such are probably aged, but still in fair enough shape not to worry about for another year or two.
anyway, the big problem is the bushings are made of natural rubber, which eventually breaks down upon contact with oil and power steering fluid (Auto tranny fluid us ised for power steering systems in Nissans).. so the bushing basically dissolves and leaves metal-on-metal contact in there.
generally you wind up replacing those bushigs around 120k miles.. that's the average mark I'd guess. My car's been through several sets (and 6 transmissions and at least 2 engines since I've owned it), but it's also a track toy and has 250k on the clock. I drive it hard, so I expect things like that to fail often on my car.
on a well-maintained grandpa-owned car with 100k on the clock, your bushings and such are probably aged, but still in fair enough shape not to worry about for another year or two.
03-27-2008, 09:24 AM
#12
just so you know, if you decide to replace the control arm bushings, I recommend replacing the whole control arm. courtesyparts.com is the only place i have found that carries the front bushing, and for just a little more than both front and back bushings on a control arm, you can get the control arm with bushings installed, along with the ball joint. just my $.02 from experience.
03-27-2008, 09:29 AM
#14
internetautosupply.com. the site is owned by intetnetautomar(guy in post 6) and so far, i havent heard any thing bad about buying from him. plus most of his prices are hard to beat.
03-27-2008, 09:33 AM
#15
just so you know, if you decide to replace the control arm bushings, I recommend replacing the whole control arm. courtesyparts.com is the only place i have found that carries the front bushing, and for just a little more than both front and back bushings on a control arm, you can get the control arm with bushings installed, along with the ball joint. just my $.02 from experience.
I did that when I had my first VE, I wouldn't do it again though. less labor to do the whole arm and you get all new bushings and a ball joint.
03-27-2008, 09:40 AM
#16
to replace just the bushings.edit: btw, it cost me more with labor to get the bushings pressed in by a shop(broke my vice!!!!) than the price of the complete arm.
03-27-2008, 09:58 AM
#17
If you want the car to handle well, I'd recommend rebuilding the arms with polyurethane bushings. cost isn't much and you don't need the hydraulic press to install the bushings. it's 1/2 the price of doing the OEM bushings.
03-27-2008, 12:26 PM
#18
I see energy suspension bushings say they require mods for maxes other than 95-99.
Do you what type of mods?
http://www.internetautosupply.com/ca...2694a038e67ecb
Do you what type of mods?
http://www.internetautosupply.com/ca...2694a038e67ecb
03-27-2008, 03:50 PM
#23
they come as a set with the front bushing in 2 pieces and the rear bushing (the one you cut) 1 set does one car
http://www.internetautosupply.com/ca...ing-p-490.html
http://www.internetautosupply.com/ca...ing-p-490.html
