ok... Finally got a vid uploaded to show you guys what it does.

At idle.. the car putts when you listen to the exhaust.

When the car gets to normal running temperature, it does this (see video)
http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...t=MOV00436.flv

The KS is brand new (less than a year old)
Plugs are same age. And look good

Swapped my 3 front coils to my old cracked ones since they still worked well, that didnt fix anything.
Gonna swap out the 3 rears today after this post. No intake leaks. After this, iit might be the injectors?

The damn KS is just an annoyance, but easy procedure. Any opinions?

TPS, MAF? Should I retard my timing? I advanced it last year also...

 

Mine was doing something similar for a while, and I couldnt figure it out. It didnt seem like a typical miss because there was very little vibration and the idle always held. The exhaust also sounded like you describe.

Turned out to be the #3 injector. Its all better now.

 

Disconnected the Coils = Bog for all 6
Disconnected the Injectors = bog (Front 3 only though)


Changed my fuel pump yesterday... every time the fuel pump bogged.... thats when the car would miss.... but, That wasnt the problem . Soooooo, I was talking about my spark plugs... I have the Iridium IX's. He stated, "Once they foul... they are gone." I told him I havent cleaned them, but I did gap them.

I guess your not supposed to even gap the iridiums or platinums. (I never read anything about this)

So it could be my spark plugs that are messed up.

But that couldnt happen over sitting could it?
(Twilight Zone music)

 

My maxima is also doing this. Some times when i start it and go to accell it kinda shutters and doesnt feel good at all. I usually pump the clutch pedel a couple of times and it seems to clear up, so i figured it was something in the clutch department.

 

Well I have a MAF in the mail, pondering if I should get new plugs. If those dont work I have a TPS on hold for me

 

i know it isnt exhaust leaks... because i dont have any

and its deff affecting HP. Imma switch out my plugs tomorrow with the same type. and hopefully my MAF will get here fairly early.. if not Ill just try it tomorrow since ill be working 12:30 to 9:30 tomorrow, i only get the morning to do this... and im still freakin up!!!! we will see

 

IMHO, you have one of 3 things causing this stumbling issue...In order of importance.

1. Bad coilpack/s (Very common for them to fail under load, which seems to be the case in your video)

2. Bad Coolant temp sensor.

3. Bad injector (not likely, but can't be ruled out at this point)

4. Loose or corroded sensor connections, remove and check all for corrosion(green crap)


A bad maf on these cars tends to effect idle, not acceleration. So i think you may have wasted your money on the maf.

good luck

 

the red is what ive done... or thoughts i can do
thanks greeny

some awesome smart guy brought this to my attention... "Distributer box"----what are your thoughts .org?

 

Want to see that box. Pics pls...

 

wasn't there some sort of master coil/distributor thing on the VE that most people didn't know was there (causing a few "are you SURE you don't have VG?" comments). But someone replaced it and took a picture... NO idea who it was and i'm at work so i can't stay on but for like 2 minutes at a time, but i'll search for it when i get home if nobody finds it by then.

 

the camshaft position sensor maybe?
it's on the drivers side of the motor front side

 

no, not the CPS
the Power transistor





BTW im changing the sparkplugs RIGHT after this post to

NGK Laser Iridiums
old ones were the NGK Iridium IX's that i gapped... and your not supposed to

 

LOOK AT WHAT I FOUND!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!....











my 3 rear coil packs were corroding the plug' contact!!! and that was the freakin problem!!!!! the max ran like a champ!!!!! holy crap i love this car again!



Problem fixed and solved... hope this thread helped out

 

thats a new one

 

did you put anything (dielectric grease) on there to keep it from happening again?
but like mike said, never seen that before.

 

no i had extra ones....

but I had thought of putting di-lectric grease on it... idk if it was gonna be a good idea since it gets pretty hot ya know?...

 

ive read that putting it on the insulator and inside the boot is okay. it just keeps the area dry.

 

I always thought moss grew on the north side.........

 

o damn .... now that can definately cause an engine to run like that. My VE in particular had corrosion on the injector subharness (bank1 (firewall side). I found another subharness in a junkyard and it was good as new

 

definitely dielectric grease those boots.
don't forget to clean out the inside of the boot and the conductor.

 

with? i mean... whats safe and not safe?

 

Baking soda and water.
I would remove the boot from the coil to do it though.

 

What kind of sushi did you say this was??

 

Aaron and I talked about taking the boot off. We decided you cant?...

can you?


"LOL @ hadman, obviously wasabi doesnt clean out the max as it would your sinus'

 

you most definitely can remove the boots, it's done when you replace the coils with new ones.
you take a small flathead screwdriver and slide it between the plastic and the rubber and start prying your way around the boot.
others have also recommended spraying a lubricant in there to loosen the bond so you can more easily get the boots off.

 

Not sure what we were talking about which led you to think that. But you can definitely remove the boots. I've done it several times.

I'm glad you got the problem fixed!