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Will N/A VGE A/T go under 6s 0-60mph ?

Old May 29, 2008 | 04:13 AM
  #1  
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Will N/A VGE A/T go under 6s 0-60mph ?

Whatever, that ... is the goal. New studs and home made warp speedo Y-pipe is needed before it works out? Whaddya think? Can I get there?

In this video its stock 95k exhaust - CAT already clogged? ECU is still 'learning' new breathing freestyle.

Forgive my helpers stuttering hand ... me and my bad manual shift hitting limiter before 2nd ... losing precious fractions thus the total is 7s. Video ends in the 100kmh = 60mph... I will take better video in near future, but this is only 7s torture, please take it. Ps. cant give out quart mile - no tracks around

Edit: updated video, see below...

Last edited by Wiking; Jun 2, 2008 at 06:29 AM.
Old May 29, 2008 | 08:55 AM
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i see you are at it again there wiking.

Hitting 6 seconds with a Max... could be possible.
Old May 29, 2008 | 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by kcidmil
i see you are at it again there wiking. ...
Been there last 5yrs ... now this intakein -BOOM.
Old Jun 2, 2008 | 06:28 AM
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Updated, better quality videos here ... maybe ECU has now learned his lesson? The driver needs still practice All legally driven by a buddy on autobahn, camera rigged so that driver operation is not needed...

1. first one is 0-to-60mph (96kmh),
2. the second extends onto 81mph (130kmh) where 3rd is engaged.

1. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdaXlomu4AM

2. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFwvfFABrHw

My car was at least 400lb overweight, plus driver, plus just filled 98 octane tank - and poor 195x15 winter tires under (Mariner overboard engine in trunk etc

Poor non-racing tires consume at least ½ sec in start : I love to drop all bmw's at speedbumps: u can drive straight through at full speed and maxima just grumbles a lidl bit, while all bmw's freeze, stop...
Old Jun 2, 2008 | 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Wiking
Updated, better quality videos here ... maybe ECU has now learned his lesson? The driver needs still practice All legally driven by a buddy on autobahn, camera rigged so that driver operation is not needed...

1. first one is 0-to-60mph (96kmh),
2. the second extends onto 81mph (130kmh) where 3rd is engaged.

1. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdaXlomu4AM

2. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFwvfFABrHw

My car was at least 400lb overweight, plus driver, plus just filled 98 octane tank - and poor 195x15 winter tires under (Mariner overboard engine in trunk etc

Poor non-racing tires consume at least ½ sec in start : I love to drop all bmw's at speedbumps: u can drive straight through at full speed and maxima just grumbles a lidl bit, while all bmw's freeze, stop...
thats pretty damn quick. losing the extra 400lb, and having 1/4 tank should easily bump it alot closer to 6s. (plus a little octane booster?)
Old Jun 2, 2008 | 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by benstoked
thats pretty damn quick. losing the extra 400lb, and having 1/4 tank should easily bump it alot closer to 6s. (plus a little octane booster?)
If u carefully observe the crap watch and lost fractions to stupidity, its about there already. I was about to lose the extra weight and get real tough on exercising it - rain broke out. (No new videos will be coming for looong time.)

...yes, for some reason ? she wants now only 98octane

Well, I knew lots horses were sleepin there... but was surprised how many did run from the snore-store barn, only just with banging on the in-door. I guess not all came out yet? Some exhaust, compression, injector/fuelpress, ECU tuning - and I will need better wheels and rear spoiler and then a one way flight ticket out of EU.

All the fun has been robbed: now all main roads are about to be camera ctrolled - they take video on every car, load to on gvmt central computer, compare the average time , say at 60 miles, mail ticket at home ... three weeks later. Thew National Socialismus Big Bro Gore is already Here.
Old Jun 2, 2008 | 10:28 AM
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There's always Nitrous Oxide.
Old Jun 2, 2008 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom
There's always Nitrous Oxide.
Myriad ways to get more pwr. And none of this is really necessary... just an obsession to keep on studying how far pure N/A flow will reach.
Old Jun 2, 2008 | 06:43 PM
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DAMN! thats quick. Was the driver manually shifting the auto?
and i have agree with you on unleashing those extra horses wiking.
Old Jun 2, 2008 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 1992maximase30
DAMN! thats quick. Was the driver manually shifting the auto?
and i have agree with you on unleashing those extra horses wiking.
The 1-2 was manual shift. Cant know why, but manual is a fraction faster. The 2-3 was auto initiated (for legal reasons nobody knows what happened after that

... in progress combing my barn for more boneheads. They try to hide behind others, just sleep, no worky. I'd like some day the still stock upper intake to look somewhat like this:
http://www.hbci.com/~tskwiot/2002_files/image006.jpg
Old Jun 2, 2008 | 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Wiking
The 1-2 was manual shift. Cant know why, but manual is a fraction faster. The 2-3 was auto initiated (for legal reasons nobody knows what happened after that

... in progress combing my barn for more boneheads. They try to hide behind others, just sleep, no worky. I'd like some day the still stock upper intake to look somewhat like this:
http://www.hbci.com/~tskwiot/2002_files/image006.jpg
what are your fabrication skills like? I've love to see you make a custom IM
Old Jun 2, 2008 | 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by capedcadaver
what are your fabrication skills like? I've love to see you make a custom IM
I am just an artist, machining skills terribleses. I'd love to start casting upper intake but currently not possible; also machining would mean expensive machinery or steep bill$... My guess is glassfiber piping would survive there? Many cars have all plastics...
Old Jun 2, 2008 | 10:39 PM
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...yes, for some reason ? she wants now only 98octane

Is there a benefit to using fuel fuel with more than 93 octane?
Old Jun 2, 2008 | 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Wiking
I am just an artist, machining skills terribleses. I'd love to start casting upper intake but currently not possible; also machining would mean expensive machinery or steep bill$... My guess is glassfiber piping would survive there? Many cars have all plastics...
i mean, whatever you do it's got certain requirements
  • must fit up to the current heads, large LIM, or thin 'middle" im
  • must sit flushly and accept gasketry or rtv
  • must hold torque
  • must not break
  • must not leak
  • must not suffer from thermodynamic changes
  • must provide significantly smoother and less restricted airflow
  • must be kid-tested, wiking-approved
Old Jun 2, 2008 | 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by capedcadaver
i mean, whatever you do it's got certain requirements
  • must fit up to the current heads, large LIM, or thin 'middle" im
  • must sit flushly and accept gasketry or rtv
  • must hold torque
  • must not break
  • must not leak
  • must not suffer from thermodynamic changes
  • must provide significantly smoother and less restricted airflow
  • must be kid-tested, wiking-approved
Taking bottom part of upper intake from rusty would take care first four. Numbers 5&6 are most challenging. Maybe no problem joining glass fiber & ALU, at least some have done it. Dont know durability. No oil there any more.

Last issue has been cleared already. Better still: nobody else approves...


[/QUOTE]nismax1994 ...yes, for some reason ? she wants now only 98octane Is there a benefit to using fuel fuel with more than 93 octane?[/QUOTE]

Not directly but now she demands it = comes knocking at low uphill 25mph. ...Working still on MAF...
Old Jun 3, 2008 | 02:05 AM
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Not directly but now she demands it = comes knocking at low uphill 25mph.
Static timing around 20 or worse?
Old Jun 3, 2008 | 03:46 AM
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Originally Posted by LvR
Static timing around 20 or worse?
I guess its now too lean. MAF doesnt like current air current... Idle just became asthmatic again, now must get the signal level up. FPR adjust time? Have to figure out how my rusty FPR spring could be tightened.
Old Jun 3, 2008 | 05:03 AM
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Lean with a working O2 and ECU?

What is the temp of your metal inlet tract just before the TB? - I can run 3 degrees more timing (20 static) if I keep that down below about 58C - anything close to that or above and I have to drop down to about 16 degrees static or constant light "ping" is inevitable

Last edited by LvR; Jun 3, 2008 at 05:07 AM.
Old Jun 3, 2008 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by LvR
Lean with a working O2 and ECU?

What is the temp of your metal inlet tract just before the TB? - I can run 3 degrees more timing (20 static) if I keep that down below about 58C - anything close to that or above and I have to drop down to about 16 degrees static or constant light "ping" is inevitable
O2 has led bar ... was working as it was pinging. No ping now with 98oct. Note that I have that one broken stud, its leak is possibly varying. Nobody has indicated willingness at the moment to address it

MAF full WOT push is 4.10V - that is true airflow indicator parallel with acceleration. Maybe ECU cant understand I will beat out all horses which wont come walkin out...

Dunno temp. Ign set to 17deg.

(Yes this is stupid with no real measurement devices, tunable ECU.)
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