Well a much needed update, my dad's friend cannot get the hose which means I still have a small chance of getting one from the dealer but at this point I may have to go through a junkyard or two.

At this point I'm beginning to think I should just cap the PCV valve and rear valve cover temporarily to hopefully have my maxima running again. It's not something I want to do but not having a car is a major inconvenience and I'm lucky it hasn't gotten me into more scheduling problems.

 

jokes aside.... it's a bad idea. PCV relieves pressure from inside the crankcase, and without it, you can MAJORLY mess some stuff up.

 

I've got the hose on the front side, I figure the pressure can relieve itself there...it's not like my intake is under pressure ATM. Anything is better than a car that misfires fairly bad under 1500rpm.

edit: btw whats the little white thing that goes in between here for? I lost it...if its just a coupler shouldn't be too hard to replace.



In fact, I have no idea what the thing attached to it does and if anyone could tell me I'd be very thankful.

 

the PCV system is not just that easy... it's designed to operate a certain way under a certain set of conditions... anything else and it's all out of whack. leaving the breather open (and i assume you planned to plug the breather on the dualduct) may let the pressure out but overall I think it's probably going to still run like crap and still possibly risk your engine.

 

Yeah I know it's not supposed to be simple but the current vacuum leak isn't bad enough to ruin driving or misfire over 1500rpm. I'm hoping to have a hose within the week or at least retrofit my own damn hose. If I can just get it running smooth with minimal additional wear now it will be easier to fix.

Oh well back to work for me. I'm going to prep my catch can hosing so I may be able to get 2 reducing sections and run this thing the correct way but I can't say that it will work. I wish I had some dial calipers right now.

 

it's just a rubber hose... if anything, go get a vac hose of the right diameter that's long enough to have GENTLE bends w/o crimping up... pre-bent hose > * but still, flex hose > no hose

 

One end is a bit bigger than the other, so it's not just a matter of finding one that bends. I have one laying 2 feet from my right foot that is a pain in the *** to get over the valve cover but is too loose for the PCV valve. I'm hoping I can find something hose that reduces from both sizes to the hose I have on my oil catch can. Then I won't have to find this elusive hose and I also will have one of my two mods that have been in the works but never completed done.

 

caped' never did answer your question for this post.
I believe it is a one way valve, that holds the vacuum. that assy is for the heater control.

 

Interesting, I temporarily sealed it off by using a piece of my blue hosing that barely fit over it. It's not air tight but it's close and as easy as the thing in the middle fell off that should be good enough.

I'm also looking at my ground wire kit again...could someone post pictures of where to bolt both ends of the following ground wires

-Intake Manifold
-Engine Block
-Headlights
-Cylinder Heads
-Alternator
-Transmission
-Battery

 

then use one that's big enough for the big end and just put hose clamps on both ends and tighten them down

wow i fail. yes it's the 1way valve




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jus get the long hose instead of putting something in the middle of those small hoses...

 

nonono

the one-way valve is there for a reason. get one from the JY... they'll charge you a dollar probably.

 

pfft. get something else, and they probably will throw it in for free.

 

like a pcv hose maybe?

 

ROFL...good idea. Maybe they'd throw in both for free if I got all the parts for disc and manual swaps....not that I have that money.

 

go to junkyard and u might get all that for free like i got MAF and rear lights and WATER **** SOLENOID...for free.....

i have a MAF sitting around if anyone is interested

 

MAFs don't come cheap but mine's fine so no thanks.

 

i know lol but i m just letting ppl know that if anyone ever need one u know....( for cheap )

 

Guys I got my car running right, got my oil catch can installed but my brakes aren't working. When the car is on the pedal goes in with no resistance. Any help?

 

check for leaks, if none are found replace the master cylinder

 

Well my dad says the brakes are working and I agree, but pedal travel is extremely long and makes it an effort to brake. I know I can't stop on a dime with it like this and the only thing I know of that could have interfered with my brakes would be the line from the intake manifold to the brake booster.

 

Alright it's late and my mom gave me the garage tonight so I got a bit more done than normally possible in a day. I painted the inside of the front grill and the nissan logo blue not to mention got my driver side hood support replaced. I am not happy about the condition of the passenger side one anymore since the new driver side one is sooooo much stronger than the passenger side one is which makes me feel like going out and buying another $46 hood support from my dad (ridiculous price...if autozone ever stocked them they would be $20 each)

edit: also, since my climate control crap is kinda broke I was wondering how easy it is to swap in the digital climate control cause I figure if I am going to replace this thing I may as well go digital because everything thats wrong with mine is mechanical.

 

First post is updated, but for you lazy folks that don't want to click first to see my engine bay here's the lousy pic (kinda missed the air filter >_>)



and my new matching grill logo

 

i m sorry i never had maxima with manual climate control jus to ask u that does ur car have all those sensor like sun load..in vehicle and intake sensor all those for digital climate control?

 

Your engine bay is really starting to look nice. I have to admit when you first started the blue/silver theme I didn't like it at all, but it is starting to look nice.

 

thanks jon

burhangondal, I highly doubt it. Nissan wouldn't put all sorts of expensive fancy sensors in a car that wouldn't use them. I actually had forgot 3rd gens had digital climate control.

 

that's pretty nice..sounds like you know what your doing...i'm wanting to do some mods on my 93 maxima..i want to make it race worthy..but i'm in college..so there's a pretty tight budget. maybe we can talk about it. my yahoo messenger is : nikotelopico

 

I don't use yahoo. I don't really know what I'm doing I just know who here to ask when I have problems and I'm picking up as fast as I can.

I don't know what you consider raceworthy, I am only interested in drag racing so I don't know much about autocross, rally, etc. If I wanted to make my car race worthy I'd save my money for a 5 speed with LSD transmission which is not cheap but it would reduce wheelspin significantly and wheelspin is a problem for my car with city driving and a driver that doesn't know my car. Of course you gotta have your bolt ons (intake & exhaust). Some people would strip the interior but as many pounds as that would shave I wouldn't do it.

 

http://www.geocities.com/craigbrace/index.html

Instructions for digital climate control from an old member, his site is also in the stickies. It looks a little bit complicated to me, but there it is.

 

Looks extremely complicated to me >_>

Then again everything does until I do it.

 

My situation is looking grim. The stock hosing seemed okay and I replaced the hose section closest to the intake manifold because the end was a little frayed from prying it off earlier and I didn't want to rule that out without replacing it.

I just can't believe that I'm having random brake problems like this since I doubt any of that has anything to do with my work on the car.

edit: brakes actually seem to work okay if you depress the pedal further... I knocked some stuff out of the passenger seat anyways.

 

Okay guys I've been searching the forums and one thing that crossed my mind in the last 2 hours was bleeding the brakes and from searching the org it seems that people have had problems just like mine from changing pads or this or that and that bleeding helped. I'm beginning to think though....my pads and rotors and drums and everything need to be replaced sooner or later so I may go ahead and beg my parents to let me borrow enough money for me and my dad to get the best pads, the best rotors, ss brake lines, and of course rear disc conversion. That way I won't have to play with my brakes for a very long time. That or just bleed my stuff and screw the LTB, intake spacers and all of my other previously higher priorities and save up for the swap before I change my pads.

edit: I forgot to mention, what's everyone recommend brake pad & rotor wise?

edit 2: my research is making me lean towards ATF PremiumOne pads and if I do see fit to get new rotors I'm thinking cheapo brembo replacement rotors

 

get better quality rotor and cheap brake pads cuz rotors r the one whose gonna eat ur brake pads and plus a good quality rotor u can machine them at least 3 times and about brakes pads i would say buy cheap brake pads and let them get burned and finish soon so u can buy new ones..wat i think that buying high quality brake pads and having them for longer time in ur car is not a good idea....

 

Well when a decent brembo costs $150 and a cheapo brembo one costs $50 it doesn't really matter how many times you can machine it and I don't know how easy it is to machine a brake rotor without damaging it without an actual brake lathe so I wouldn't be the one doing it and labor costs money so I'd end up being out even more money.

ATF PremiumOnes are hardly expensive, they don't look to be the best in stopping but they are better balanced in terms of brake dust, brake noise and stopping mixed. If it doesn't sound like my engine or my stereo it shouldn't make a sound IMO.

 

alot of people seem to like hawk hps(?)

 

 

Yeah I thought I had seen alot of people talking about the hawk ones but wasn't sure...my memory is atrocious.

 

I went over to my dad's business today and worked on the brakes and filled the r134a and everything seems to be back to normal. Engine temperatures are fine, everything is flawless except the fact that I can't keep the damn thing from speeding...I try to go 30...it creeps up to 35, I go 55...and it creeps up to 70. Call me crazy but taking off the valve covers and intake manifold and cleaning them and using silicone gaskets on them is seemingly making a difference.

 

the brand name is ATE not ATF.
For regular driving purposes I would stick to wagner pads (thermoquiets), and cheapo rotors. All rotors regardless of brand are the same thickness to start with, it is part of the rotor specifications. The brakes are part of a much larger system when it comes to stopping your car.

 

I should have looked twice on the brand name >_<