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Erratic Idle & smoke = electrical problem?

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Old 08-25-2008, 05:45 AM
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Congratulations, I'm glad you have it solved! It would take a while before someone would suggest ECU. As I undersand your idle was still jumping even with idle socket disconnected from IACV, correct? Interesting, I wonder where engine was getting air from to run around 2k at idle if every channel was closed. Anyway, this is pure academic interest, enjoy your car!
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Old 08-25-2008, 07:24 AM
  #82  
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Heh yeah well i guess now that the 'issues' with the hot cable were out of the way it would have been OK to try the other ECU... I think before we were worried about you frying the other ECU from a lingering problem, right? Either way appears to be good except that random smoke from the valve cover.. hmm did you ever do the front valve cover gasket or just the rear one? Don't feel bad tho.. my friend's car is a 'chain smoker' if you know what i mean. Shoulda seen the smoke she put out after we did the headgasket... OH wait... you can! http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u...t=MVI_1428.flv

See if the smoke happens every time you start it (engine cold) or just this time
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Old 08-25-2008, 04:08 PM
  #83  
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Well, I haven't done any gasket replacement, the "mechanic" did, but I'm not sure if front and rear ones, never ask him about that.

Indeed getting rid of the hot cable make me take the chance and try the ECU and I was worried if I should reset ECU somehow before just plugging it in, but I didn't do anything I just plug the ECU and everything seem to work fine.

Wow, that video is from a car that just had replaced the valve cover gasket? I'll check for smoke today again.

I have a couple of questions I was willing to get your opinions about it.

Since this engine is supposed to be 80k miles and Tranny is just rebuilt, I was willing to put as much care as possible, so...

Can I change my oil to Full Synthetic at this moment? is it worth it?

Before I had all the problems with my car I use to put the middle grade gas on the Maxima, with gas prices so high... is it worth it? can I just use regular now that my engine is healty or I should stick with the middle grade gas from now on?

Thanks!
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Old 08-25-2008, 04:14 PM
  #84  
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This is my opinion on gas grade, if you have a high compression engine or a forced induction engine, use high grade gas. The owners manual for the VG reccomends at least 91 octane. I am not sure why because from what I have heard and seen the knock sensor does not retard timing if you use 87. VE's have proven that poor effects will happen if anything below 91 is used. So the bottom line is VG with stock timing will do ok on pretty much whatever grade pleases you. If you advance the timing, use higher octane. If you buy a VE use a high octane. If someone who knows why the VG manual reccomends 91 or higher steps in, I hope they speak up because I am not too sure.

I am not too sure if that helped. I recently switched back to 87 from 93 (Ironically since gas just went down) and have noticed no difference in gas mileage, performance, etc.
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Old 08-26-2008, 09:07 AM
  #85  
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Well, yesterday I drove the car about 2 miles and when I turn it on I check for smoke and nothing. however when I arrived at the car wash I popped the hood and I feel the car too hot for that 1 mile drive.

Honestly I don't know, probably I worry too much, but the other car doesn't feel that way after driving it such a short distance, besides my temp needle seems ok, radiator fans work fine, well I just want to let you know about this.

Anybody have an opinion about the Synthetic Oil? I heard it's much better but I don't know if it's worh it for our cars, or if there's a special care before doing this, I would like to know what do you guys think, and if you are running synthetic, yes, no, why?

Thanks!
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Old 08-26-2008, 09:11 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by rmdl51
Well, yesterday I drove the car about 2 miles and when I turn it on I check for smoke and nothing. however when I arrived at the car wash I popped the hood and I feel the car too hot for that 1 mile drive.

Honestly I don't know, probably I worry too much, but the other car doesn't feel that way after driving it such a short distance, besides my temp needle seems ok, radiator fans work fine, well I just want to let you know about this.

Anybody have an opinion about the Synthetic Oil? I heard it's much better but I don't know if it's worh it for our cars, or if there's a special care before doing this, I would like to know what do you guys think, and if you are running synthetic, yes, no, why?

Thanks!
http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...-guys-use.html

synthetic is better. your JDM engine is nice and fresh and synthetic will help keep it that way.

VG engines get HOT. VE, not so much for some reason. My UIM back by the fuel pressure regulator hit 160*F after idling for an hour!!! that's hot!! of course that was pre-spacers.... after the spacers it was down to like 140 or 135.
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Old 08-26-2008, 09:36 AM
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^^i dunno caped.
some might get hot. or maybe rmd is touching his top hose.

my ve was hot...bout as hot as johns 4th gen.
my vg does'nt run as hot though even with the a/c on.

i figured with advanced timing and the use of premium my car would run a bit hotter.

you have intake spacers?

RMD:
if the gauge is 1/2 way or a lil bit lower it's fine.

i use synthetic oil in my car; seems to be fine with it and i use it because she gets driven alot and hard also.
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Old 08-26-2008, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by 1992maximase30
^^i dunno caped.
some might get hot. or maybe rmd is touching his top hose.

my ve was hot...bout as hot as johns 4th gen.
my vg does'nt run as hot though even with the a/c on.

i figured with advanced timing and the use of premium my car would run a bit hotter.

you have intake spacers?

RMD:
if the gauge is 1/2 way or a lil bit lower it's fine.

i use synthetic oil in my car; seems to be fine with it and i use it because she gets driven alot and hard also.
i have a 21k old waterpump and thermostat (stock temp spec.. 180*F iirc) , slightly younger (15k or so) radiator. I run 18* timing (advanced by 3*) and 89 octane.

and yea i have spacers . Aaron used my car as the test car. The instruction sheet .PDF has pics of my car in it. Basically, I own the first VG on planet earth with them Sorry didn't mean to slap you that hard.
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Old 08-26-2008, 11:23 AM
  #89  
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Yes 1992maximase30, my temp needle is below 1/2, and I don't mean any specific part of the car is hot (I know top radiator hose should be really hot) but I mean just by getting close enough to the engine bay your face gets the feeling of being close to an oven, I don't know how to explain in detail but I think I'll be checking my engine bay carefully in case I'm missing something that could be causing this.

Caped, any particular reason you use 89 octane? I fill up half tank with 87 on sunday, but I don't know if I should keep it that way or get back to 89 as before.

BTW, I just notice this stupid mechanic put water on my radiator instead of antifreeze, could that increase the heat on the car? or water works the same as antifreeze for cooling purposes?
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Old 08-26-2008, 11:39 AM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by rmdl51
Yes 1992maximase30, my temp needle is below 1/2, and I don't mean any specific part of the car is hot (I know top radiator hose should be really hot) but I mean just by getting close enough to the engine bay your face gets the feeling of being close to an oven, I don't know how to explain in detail but I think I'll be checking my engine bay carefully in case I'm missing something that could be causing this.

Caped, any particular reason you use 89 octane? I fill up half tank with 87 on sunday, but I don't know if I should keep it that way or get back to 89 as before.

BTW, I just notice this stupid mechanic put water on my radiator instead of antifreeze, could that increase the heat on the car? or water works the same as antifreeze for cooling purposes?
stupid ****ing mechanic.... go put antifreeze in it. water boils at 212*F. Antifreeze doesn't boil until it gets alot hotter. Dunno how much hotter, or if that would cause your oven-like engine bay or not. But even so it's totally stupid of him to put straight water in there.

I use 89 because my timing is slightly advanced. 3 degrees isn't enoug imo to warrant full 93, so i just use 89. I've used 93 and it felt no different and gave no different MPG so it isn't worth the extra $$$ right now.
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Old 08-26-2008, 12:04 PM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
stupid ****ing mechanic.... go put antifreeze in it. water boils at 212*F. Antifreeze doesn't boil until it gets alot hotter. Dunno how much hotter, or if that would cause your oven-like engine bay or not. But even so it's totally stupid of him to put straight water in there.

I use 89 because my timing is slightly advanced. 3 degrees isn't enoug imo to warrant full 93, so i just use 89. I've used 93 and it felt no different and gave no different MPG so it isn't worth the extra $$$ right now.
Not only does it boil faster but it corrodes the cylinder head and various other parts of the engine. I would suggest draining it and putting a 50/50 mix of Antifreeze/coolant. (Just buy the 100% coolant and mix it with a jug at home and have 2 for 1 instead of buying the premixed coolant- if your water isn't too hard)
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Old 08-26-2008, 01:08 PM
  #92  
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THATS WHY...
i use premium becuase i have my timing advanced 20* -/+.
remember to open the bleeder screw and jack the front end of the car.
and caped: OW!!!

Last edited by 1992maximase30; 08-26-2008 at 01:11 PM.
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Old 08-26-2008, 04:51 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by rmdl51
Yes 1992maximase30, my temp needle is below 1/2, and I don't mean any specific part of the car is hot (I know top radiator hose should be really hot) but I mean just by getting close enough to the engine bay your face gets the feeling of being close to an oven, I don't know how to explain in detail but I think I'll be checking my engine bay carefully in case I'm missing something that could be causing this.

Caped, any particular reason you use 89 octane? I fill up half tank with 87 on sunday, but I don't know if I should keep it that way or get back to 89 as before.

BTW, I just notice this stupid mechanic put water on my radiator instead of antifreeze, could that increase the heat on the car? or water works the same as antifreeze for cooling purposes?
Antifreeze is there mostly to prevent coolant from freezing when the car is off as well as to prevent corrosion. Its boiling temperature is not so relevant as under normal conditions coolant is not supposed to boil. Last summer I was running my car filled mostly with distilled water to wash out some 'leak protector' out of the system. Didn't notice any difference. If your engine temperature gauge is where it's supposed to be I wouldn't worry about it.

Last edited by Max_5gen; 08-26-2008 at 04:54 PM.
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Old 08-26-2008, 06:08 PM
  #94  
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for cooling purposes, water > anti-freeze. water is a better heat conductor than anti-freeze is
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Old 08-26-2008, 06:15 PM
  #95  
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thast why nissan owners manual states 30% anti-freeze/70% water...
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Old 08-26-2008, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 1992maximase30
thast why nissan owners manual states 30% anti-freeze/70% water...
only in warm weather though.
50/50 is the best all around mix for chicago at least.
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Old 08-27-2008, 11:13 AM
  #97  
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Well, I live in California and weather has been from warm to hot as hell, I guess I shouldn't worry about cooland get frozen since cold weather is nothing to worry here.

But I still feel safer if I put 50/50 mix, I think I'm not whole filled with plain water, because I notice there's a little green on radiator, but reservoir tank have plain water and the radiator water/anti-freeze seems a little brownish I think that's corrosion right? I think it's because car was seated there for over 6 months, anyway I'm gonna drain and fill this weekend I just want to have the peace of mind to have everything running like new and a well maintenance done properly.
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