Is it jerking like "bucking" when you step on the gas pretty good? Or just at idle?

 

when i gas it. ill be driving then it will just drop and jurk few times then accelarate once in a while it will just shut off most of the time when coming to a stop.

 

Sounds like IACV, MAF.

Do all injectors click equally, resistances have been measured?

 

will gxe mafs work on se even though the have an extra prong???
cant find any se mafs at the junkyard and their too much new
also does anyone know how many times to turn the iacv screw if i move it it will act different so i guess its not set correct.

 

If u read the link above, youll find out...

 

I have a new toy with a problem also,a 92 se 5 spd and my Idle is at 1500 and will not go down but my motor is missing the power valve acuator that only come on the 5 spd cars,its the valve that sits on the passenger side of the intake that has a couple hoses going to,when the guy at the shop took out my locked up engine he never put it on my newer engine,could this be my problem??what does that power acuator valve do?and why is it only on 5 spd cars,I need to learn about this car I really like it,great little car

 

got a maf for my car put it in and it acts worse wont rev mass 2000 rpm and just dies out

 

A used maf, or new?

either way, the maf you installed is defective/bad.

 

Remove/Clean/ re-install your IAC valve. Be sure to buy a iacv gasket, (preferable from the nissan dealership) before you start removing the iacv.

Use Throttle Body Cleaner to clean the iacv, not carb/choke cleaner.

 

No answer yet on injectors. What resistance values you get from each 6?

 

How do check the injectors i have no idea about injectors or what is the resistance.

 

You need a multimeter with an OHM setting. It will have a black and red cable with pins or clips on the end which you'll touch to electrical connectors. Once you have it ready, pop off the electrical connector top off of each injector. Then hold the black side of the multimeter to one of the terminals on the injector, and one to the other, once you have continuity it will give you a reading on the multimeter.

 

11-14 Ohms. They should all be in the same range. No reading means broken coil or...

Reachin the VGE no1 injector needs takin distr cap off.

 

#1? #1 is back by the high pressure PS hose.. odds in back, evens in front

anyways you can access 2, 4, and 6 by testing the continuity from the 2x2pin plug for the subharness, which is in front of the brown and green solenoids on the vacuum-gallery side of the engine.

 

So true, maybe my engine dropped?

Through harness resistance measurement adds all connector resistances into the reading. If the value is ok, then no problem. If value is out of specs, then direct measurement is needed: correction - access no2 when cap is off.

 

Got tired of searching for the problem took my max to superior nissan and tomorrow im going to get a huge list of what i need lol but hopefully is simple stuff going to sell max max in late jan anyways pick up a 5spd maybe 4th gen or 5th

 

Why not a T-Ford? It has also a stiff rear axle = get a surprise every day, even on dry sunny roads...

 

you want to downgrade?

Believe me when I say, a 4th gen is a serious downgrade from a VE in terms of quality, and comfort.

 

5th gen also suffers from these. One example: alt gnd wire has been 'saved' out. No problem for first 5yrs, then this 'feature' starts to create revenue for nissan stealerships with 2500$ alternator swaps.

 

Well i wouldnt mind having a VE5 either what ever comes around jan or feb ill try to get

 

Got my car back from the dealer 3 major things i need is a aac valve i can get one from the junkyard and a tps easy to get too but i have no idea where the cam sensor is ?????

 

So they simply want to replace some/all of the possible causes? .................... really professional imo.

 

 

Thanks greeny so i replaced another junkyard iacv thats the 3rd one so im begining to think thats not causing it also replaced the cam sensor its a mitsibishi brand i guess aftermarket so im pretty sure its working original cam sensor had a rubber thing hanging out of it so i guess that just leaves tps and maf ??? also would water pump cause the car to run like i described because im told mines going out well hat what superior nissan said

 

Nobody knows. Unbeliavable. You guys with the stealership kids would freeze to death outside the unlocked door because no keys.

True story from the British mandate from 17th century, African jungle: troops were surrounded and ammo low. Well, there were limitless resource of locked boxes, full of ammo. But they were locked. Of course the keys were in London... and thus all the brave heroes died (and relatives (?) received medals).

Be hero. Dont measure, sell the Car.

 

Try TPS keep hope alive

 

Replacing my tps tomorrow i'm pretty sure this will fix it.

 

still no luck replacing injectors next. where is the knock sensor on a ve at i can just try that to to make sure..

 

5hr swappin always surpasses 5min measuring. To keep game interest index up, best is to use a set of unknown injectors, above all, nonmeasured...

How do yall know if the flat tire guy on the roadside is a computer specialist? He tests the syndrome to certify a broken part: he takes the flat tire, swaps with each three wheels, one after another, and verifies that the symptoms remain. After gettin four positives, he takes the spare...

 

check your fuel injectors and make sure u dont have a blown head gasket.

 

The only thing i see wrong is my front coils are cracked but if the coils are bad would'nt that cause check engine light to come on also it runs really good when cold.

 

it wouldn't cause the check engine light to come on but u will see back firing ( miss firing) thro exhaust and wen u will push the race pedal all way down while going around 40mph u will see that ur car will cut off like it just doesn't wanna go higher....u better change ur those coils and ur car will thank u....ur coils might be cracked like this?...

 

yeah the 3 front ones are just like that can this cause stalling?? also i did get backfiring once in a while my rpms will drop all the way to o while driving backfire a few time then jump up again

 

yeah..u will have to change coils sooner later no matter wat happens...u wont be driving for so long with cracked coils so do ur car a favor,change its coils will ya?!!!.---------- its better to change them first cuz i m pretty sure it will solve ur all problems.....like mine did....and for ur cold thingy...all u need to know is that

cold=less resistance to current
hot= more resistance to current

so now u can figure it out why it runs better in cold





YOU NEED NEW COILS YAP U HEARD ME lol

 

you can in some cases silicone the cracks **** and wrap them with a good quality electrical tape and that will "fix" them

 

.... what did you say that offended the language filter?

and how long will that 'fix' keep them going? indefinitely?

 

I think i said closed or shut, maybe my finger slipped and hit "i" instead of "u"

the fix is indefinately, eventually it will fail as they expand and contract some more.

 

ya exactly thats why i told him to just change the coils...i was thinking of doing that then i jus bought new coils cuz i didnt want any mess down dere...

 

ok so still having the problem after replacing tps,iacv,maf,ignition coils,cam sensor, o2 sensor ive recently notice my car kind of downshifting when coming to a stop also when the jurking and the down shifting occurs the p on the power and comfort mode lights up and b4 i had these problems i remember spilling soda around that area i don't think its the tranny it shifts fine any suggestions thanks in advance hoping its just a bad switch that i can just unplug untill i can replace it

 

the tranny computer MIGHT need that switch... not positive.. never ran without it. did you say both lights light up when it downshifts weirdly? also when you start the car up, do those lights blink or anything? you might be able to run the tranny diagnostic and see if it spits back anything