so i was being stupid, and tried to pop the tierod end out of the knuckle with a hammer so i could get my hubs loose for the bearings to be warrantied.... well i found out a little too late that you hit the knuckle itself, not the threads.... so they are a little bit messed up now and i tried for about 30min to thread the nut back on and it won't have it.... the only damaged threads are at the very end of the threaded part, the last 1 or 2 threads are smashed up but the rest of it is fine.

so should I just try and file the threads back to life with a small file and go find the old nut the came off when i installed the tierods in the first place... or try and use a die to restore the threads... or just suck it up and buy another tierod end? Alignment is under warranty as well since it was their fault i had to disassemble my suspension again. but i can only get it realigned for free once so i got to make the right choice the first time.

 

...............................

 

umm... was that a "do that" or a "i can't believe you said that"?

 

Well i can't believe you didn't know to hit the knuckle instead of the tierod end. Just buy a new tierod big guy.

hows that new to you vg engine running?

 

i'll get back to you on that once i replace the entirety of the vac and crankcase ventilation lines....... right now i have a weird idle and some stumbling issues to get rid of. of course being that i'm missing an ENTIRE hose (tb to egr solenoid i think) it's not surprising i'd have some performance issues.
anyhow this is what it is doing.... (you can move this post into the idle/stumbling thread if you want)

http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u...0871679749.flv

i c ur ninja edit btw....

 

Why?, there isn't anyone here anyway.

I looks like a pretty good vacuum leak to me.

 

i sorry... want a kleenex?

yeah the rear breather hose was 're-engineered' and my PCV hose is pretty much split as well.... i'm just having to be really careful with my money to make sure i can pay Goon in a timely fashion.

 

Man, the 3rd gen forum is dead now, what happened?

Throw a pic or two up of the parts you need, i might have some of the breather hoses you need.

 

i'm gonna be reassembling the suspension tomorrow morning so if i can't find the hoses on my parts engine (the tbelt'd one that came from matt's 89) then i'll let you know what i need. but as for the little hoses i was just gonna get 10-20 feet of that stuff and re-run them one at a time. i mean i guess if i get confused i've got matt's car to look at as a reference. somehow i'm leaking a bit of oil too..... which is weird cuz goon said he resealed it minus the HGs so it's a bit of a surprise to me... got a few droplets collecting on the PS belt tensioner.... soooo i'm thinking the back of the oilpan or the RH cam seal is leaking. but i was gonna pull the motor out anyways to detail my engine bay and repaint some crap.... so it's not a travesty. just gotta check the level and keep a bottle handy..

 

Check the p/s high pressure hose connection at the pump. mine had the same leak, turned out the connection there needed to be tightened. Thats probably where you disconnected it for the engine the swap, right?

 

no, i retained my original PS pump... 3 bolts inside the pulley accessible through those holes, and another accessible from the cyl1 side of the bracket.

i never replaced those washers on that fitting but i replaced the ones at the other end of the HP hose... i'll look into that after the car is actually rolling again. maybe get some degreaser and clean it up back there a lil bit.

edit: dangit everytime i edit my sig shows up.... maybe there's a setting to not make it auto-show the sig when you edit a post...

 

Still check the connection, not saying thats for sure the leak area, but it's much easier then a replacing a vg front main seal..

 

lol yeah. o and i edited....

i fixed a leak earlier up by the firewall, but not the one down at the pump.. pump is whining more than it did before the motor swap tho. would a slow leak cause whining if the fluid level is still OK? i wouldn't think so... i know it probably needs new seals and a full flush. i minus whale do a full flush and replace those crush washers since i once put regular PS fluid in there.... and it's still in there...... i know i was young and stupid

 

When you edit, go advanced, edit the post, then uncheck "show signature" before you repost.

 

and my steering has felt VERY vague ever since i did the VLSD swap/suspension work.... plus i have the new tires, wider track, and 'alignment' but i'm thinking some spec was way out of whack and they couldn't fix it... like maybe the camber. they LOOKED a bit positive but i can't say for sure they WERE positive.... just looked a bit out at the tops... but the low offset against the curves of the body could make that an optical illusion.

also when going over bumps or imperfections in the road, the car will steer itself. so after i get the tierod and knuckles back on and it's realigned HOPEFULLY they will fix that. i wanted to grind the holes on the struts bigger to make the camber adjustible but alas, i have no suitable tool.

 

yea that's what i usually do. perhaps i never noticed it before cuz all i had for the first year and a quarter i was on here was that PieceOut.FallToPeaces thing, so it was just 1 line and ibinevernoticedit

 

Sounds like it's time for new poly control arm bushings?

 

A dremel tool, with some grinding wheels will widen the strut holes nicely.

 

... that's what i did. in front. i need to send you the rear ones to cut for me since i couldn't cut them cuz i have no good tool to cut them with that won't get stuck in the material.

i have new inner/outer tierods, bj, and ES front LCA bushings already, plus one new swaybar link cuz the old one broke. it's not perfect but it's enough for now until i get a little more cash to do another extensive project (eibach, tokico, new strut mounts all around, new swaybar bushings and endlinks w/ the SE front swaybar, and maybe a little trick on the front control arm to keep it at the stock angle... and dual adjustible rear links to fix any camber changes with the drop.

 

****ty battery-powered dremel ftmfl..... i might give it a shot tho before i toss the knuckles on tomorrow morning. if it works, great, if not, oh well.

 

yeah get a corded dremel, the batt ones suck.

 

i wish i could get one and cut those rear LCA bushings tomorrow so that way i could toss them on and have them as part of this upcoming alignment.... rather than leaving them for later. but money is as tight as a....... right now

 

I used a hack saw for my rear lca's worked perfectly.

 

then maybe i just need to try a new blade... cuz maybe i was using a blade that was more worn than i thought it was. i guess i'll figure it out tomorrow. i just hope the shape is close, otherwise the alignment won't be right either.

 

Yes, a new/sharp blade is key, also tighten the blade up in the hack saw as tight as you can.

use the oem bushing as a template so to speak, set it on top of the 4th gen bushing, then start sawing down with the contour of the oem bushing.

IIRC correctly, i used a large clamp to hold the two bushing in place as i cut through.

 

The wifey's crying for her laptop, so i gots to go now..

 

yea... i made marks on the new bushing after taking a few measurements so i think it's in the ballpark. started cutting it but got stuck.

IIRC Correctly, huh?

 

wow looks like theres only two guys left in this forum and they r GREENY AND CAP lol.....i was lil busy fixing my axle prob..anyways to answer ur Q cap....u should try to fix it first and make a new thread if it doesnt then obviously buy new one....do u have the thread making KIT?

 

you can get a tap and die kit... that's a tool used to fix threads. i just don't know if i messed it up past where i can even fit the tool on there... plus the nut is fubar'd too so i'd have to dig up the old one from the old tierod or better yet, steal one of those nuts from the parts car.

 

do u have tap and die kit? if u do i would say try it if not then theress always new ones available....i messed up my front control arms rear bushing's car's screw fitting threads...and that was in the BODY OF THE CAR......i had to fix those...luckily i was able to fix them and put the screws in there....probably nobody never changed control arms on my car... dats y

edit: is ur tie rod connected to the car yet? or u took it out? if u have it out then it would be easy if not then i would say take it out and try on it......( sorry if u have mentioned in past threads as i didnt read them all cuz there r so many :|)

 

Nope. I think youre just brave, not afraid of touching tools. The wise just love watchin and deliverin precepts: no errors, clean hands clean...

Now charge the dremel batt and get rid of those two stupid threads...

 

go to a good parts store. buy a thread repair file. (You'll need one later for something else anyway, so it's a good investment)

turn it to 1.25mm side and start filling.


If not, get out a triangle file and go to town. took me longer to read this thread than it would have to fix the problem with the proper tools.

 

OK well i tried sort of what Wiking said... took the dremel and just dug into the threads until there was enough material gone to not obstruct the nut going on. Those threads don't actually do anything anyways (past the cotter pin hole) so why bother preserving them?

Well the old nut was eing lame anyways so i found another nut to put on there (not a crown nut... but a nylon-ringed locknut).

However i noticed some other things that pissed me off a little bit.

Pepboys didnt' untwist my tierod boot on the passenger side as they adjuste the toe... so it was twisted as all hell, and got pinched and torn during the last 2000 miles i just put on it. That was a BRAND NEW boot too...

Also i didn't put the washer behind the front LCA bushings so one of them had worked its way mostly back out.... talk about scary! So I need to go find my long-lost 7/8" socket and yank the arms and put those washers on there...

Also pepboys didn't seem to pack much grease in the bearings... nor did they replace the grease seal on the driverside hub! I had to pull one off my parts car but seriously wtf is that crap! And they didn't remove the brake dust shields shields, as i'd asked, so i had to grind through them w/ the dremel.

Vac leaks are fixed tho.. the one on the TB is fixed proprly but i couldn't find another adapter for the heatercore vac hose so i'll pocket one at the JY next time I go.

 

IF it is leaking from the cam seal that will be weird... They appeared to be good, I went ahead and changed them anyway. My old motor had a leak in that area. 2 power steering leak fixes later it, no more oil leaks there.

I feel sick without my maxi... I'm watching for another cheap daily and can't find anything comparable to the maxi.

 

i agree it would be weird... you said you changed them and i'm sure you'd have done it properly... that's why it surprised me so much. i didn't smell the fluid yet but it's brown, whatever it is... either burnt/used ATF or oil..

 

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/cto/889474318.html

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/cto/886079465.html

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/cto/886794233.html

 

lol @ #2

well come to think of it i left my old motor down there with him.......

 

Been there, seen that, done it: its called "overdoing"

And if you dont change em, they will also leak.

Btw. Few weeks ago tried to change one VGE crank oil seal: no way to get t-belt sprocket out! We retreated, covers silently closed... Whattodo next time?

 

2 pry bars behind it (180deg apart if possible)? and then just buy a new seal cover plate thingy when you are done? tiny puller? big magnet?

 

thinking about it... if the back of the bushing isn't supported properly by a washer..., the whole arm will set too far back.... and the castor will be off.. won't it. and i think castor has a lot to do with steering feel and re-centering and stuff, right?