Just before going to Goon's place, i switched out my VG5 tranny (put it on Matt's 89) for the VE5 I got from Colombianmax. It's fine mechanically but has been leaking out the striking rod oil seal. At Goon's we tried everything we could think of to get the yoke off the rod without breaking anything we couldn't replace THAT DAY (ie, the yoke itself, and the rod). We used a puller... heat... drilled a hole through the end of it... even rage didn't help.

I've got a brand new seal that is anxious to be installed... but until i either pull the rod or find a better way to get the yoke off, i'm at a standstill.

So what are my options here.... dremelling the yoke off and buying a new one? pulling the whole rod out and putting the seal in, then putting the whole rod back in? Also if i remove the rod itself... how indepth is that? I've never cracked a tranny open before and i definitely don't want to use my VE5 trans as a guinea pig.... i have a spare VG5 trans but i might need it in case Matt's GF gets 3rd gen auto soon (about a 60% chance of her having a 3G by february) and needs me to swap the m/t on for her (cuz she HATES automatics)... so i need that tranny intact too.

 

Std folks change socks daily - cape has a daily dose of trannyswaps...

I need to have a pic of that oxen to dechipher which end of it is yoked which not.

 

Not trying be an *** or point out the obvious, but did you remove the retaining pin from the yoke before trying to remove the yoke?

 

I sure did.... There were 2 pins, small inside the larger. There's some rust in there that holding it on.

 

BFH?

 

Well is there a safe way to hammer on the rod???? eeeash...

 

lol, i wouldn't just start bashing the thing full force, but maybe a light slam wouldn't hurt it. along with a bunch of pb blaster.

 

yoke is in bottom right corner of pic


closeup of the pin you punch out... and the yoke should pull off


note those pics are of the VG manual back in may, but the parts are all the same

 

so uh... PB blast the fawk out of it every morning for a week or so then give it another try? and tap it with a hammer like you would the knuckle to get the tierod out (oh wait... didn't we jut talk about this? )

 

might be a bit ot but i have a used/extra 3rd gen tranny from sale from my turd gen, if you're interested that is...

 

eh, i'd only need it for guinea pig purposes but i'm sure as heck not driving to boston, or payin shipping from boston...

 

If it were me, I'd get one off a JY car. Cut off the old... swap.

 

just the yoke, right?

maybe torqus will part with his for cheap? brand new one is abt $35 shipped from courtesy

http://www.courtesyparts.com/34130y-...-p-184124.html

5spd JY cars are rare around here

 

I have a spare yoke on a junked VG-5 tranny here at the house.

let me know and I'll pull it off.


Try to twist it back and forth while you're pulling on it. dont' use the hammer to just whack on it, or you're just going to bend things you don't want to damage internally.
you CAN, however, back up behind the yoke with a 10lb sledge, then use a smaller hammer (regular 8,10,12oz ball peen) and give it a couple whacks on the outside of the yoke. with the backup of the sledge, it should minimize the stress going into the tranny and shock the yoke and break the rust bond. (basically same way you remove tie rods and ball joints)


then give it a few twists and see what happens. don't go more than 30-40 ft lb on the twisting either. any more than that and it's possible you'll bend shift rods or forks.

before you do any of that though, use some GOOD penetrating oil. PB blaster and the like are junk. spray it and let it sit a few minutes/hours. a little time with a torch wouldn't hurt either.

If you can't find good stuff, go to wal-mart and look in the hunting section. They sell CLP Break Free in small cans for about $4. It's good stuff. I use it for cleaning guns and as a penetrating oil. Kano Aerokroil is better for penetrating oil, but it's hard to find locally. (Grainger sells it if you can buy stuff there.)

 

pb blaster junk?

 

Yup. Use quality stuff and you'll understand. I use PB blaster on a rag to wipe the real grease off my tools. that's about all it and WD-40 are good for.

 

is that the 2nd gen tranny? if it is i still wanted to get the stuff i'd need to (once i have a spare tranny i KNOW i don't need, and don't care if i mess it up by tinkering with its internals) swap in the 2nd gen 5th gear as well......

but yea if you could pull that, that would be cool.

we go to walmart often so next time we're by i'll take a look at that stuff.

as for the torch... what type to you suggest for that? all i have right now is a MAPP gas torch. Being so close to the fuel lines and stuff... you don't see any potential problems to be caused by having an open flame in that area for several minutes?

 

PB Blaster

 

Yeah, it's the 2nd gen tranny. it's good for parts only. it's been taken apart and I don't know what all is missing (check ***** and springs and etc). so I'd say only use it for parts.
It's just enough differnt from a 3 gen tranny I don't think the internals are swappable, but the yoke is the same P/N from Nissan so it'll interchange.

as for the fuel lines and whatnot, just aim the torch the other direction. you might put a piece of sheet metal and them some fiberglass mat for insulation between the fuel lines and the linkage, but as long as you don't have open fuel leaks or dripping fluids in the area, you shouldn't have a problem with fires.

 

hmmm. see that's why i need to find a spare tranny that i can experiment with..... once Jess gets her 3g, if she finds one already 5spd i may tear the spare one apart.

but uh... yea when you get that thingy off, PM me.

 

Let me know when you want the yoke and I'll toss it in the mail. pm me your addy. paypal me $5 for shipping or so to matt_at_mattblehm_dot_com and its yours. if you want it faster, pay for it and its yours. won't take me but 5 min to pull off. ( I have a sawzall. )

 

Ok, std pin, rusted in... can be nasty.

DIY fabricated screw puller or Dremel. When half of it has been grinded to dust, the other half will come out. ... The rubber is doomed.

 

Hey caped, is the "seal" you are referring to the dust boot? My tranny's also leaking gear oil from the "yoke".

I assume the yoke is just a piece of metal, and the reason you are changing it is because it's rusted, and using the old one, wouldnt let the new boot seal right?

 

what kind of seal is it? is it a O-ring type that you would have to pull the shaft out to get it in the groove in the case or does it just pop in the end of the case?

 

Think RH axle carrier at about 1/3 scale..

 

well i'm just thinking if it's a O-ring that sits in a groove in the case you might have to pull the shaft out put the new seal in then slide the the shaft back in which would include pulling the case apart and dealing with the forks

 

nah not an o-ring... it's uh... lemme see i have a pic SOMEWHERE



it's the thing just down-left of the spring

 

the seal is covered up by the boot. the boot is so dust and dirt doesn't scratch the shaft, which would ruin the seal. think of the boots on your struts... they protect the strut rods so the seals don't get messed up.

the yoke is a metal cap thingy that connects the shifter to the tranny selector rod (striking rod). mine is rusted onto the striking rod, and it may only come off by damaging it, which is why i'd need a spare in case i mess it up.

 

ahhh ok I wasn't sure yea you shouldn't have to pull the shaft and forks

 

trust me ... you dont wanna try to get the striking rod off. I`m going a VE 5 swap now and the tranny i got had a BENT striking rod. I had to tear the tranny down to the bare case. I decided to change every seal while it was apart.My yolk was no big deal to seperate neither. You can heat the yoke after getting the pin out and just wack it off .... done deal.

 

I'm curious how this turned out. My tranny has been leaking at the strike rod seal for about 5 years. A couple years back I changed the seal and the MF'er still leaked.

Just curious if you've had more luck CapedCadaver